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Window Regulator Repair done

76K views 115 replies 45 participants last post by  cn90 
#1 · (Edited)
FYI
I did my friends 2004 X3 window regulator repair for both rear windows (only one was broken, but I dont want to do it again, so do both at once). Simply replaced the drive dog, instead of the entire window regulator module. $100 for two drive dogs, and $30 for two vapor barriers. First one was a pain and took long until i realized you should move the drive dog up and down to easily remove the window and the dog itself from the rail. 2nd window took about 20min. A note, replacing just the dog itself is faster then the entire regulator module, and also cheaper =)

My vapor barriers are on order. I decided not to risk my friend complaining of water leaks and simply ripped off the old barriers. It took quite a while to remove the barriers from the gooey stuff. I have Permatex silicon adhesive/sealant purchased at local pepboys to reseal the barriers. The gooey stuff has dirt indicating where the water would tend to flow, so this should make identifying where to ensure I reseal correctly. The old gooey stuff is still on there, so that should provide something to hold the barriers as the seal I apply cures.

The windows require manually going all the way and all the way down to re-learn the thresholds for auto up/down functionality. I was confused at first, but figured it out.

Drive Dogs are : http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=PC73&mospid=49510&btnr=51_5134&hg=51&fg=10&hl=3
Items 51333448643 and 51353448645
 
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#36 ·
Dog replacement is a solution only for when the window has dropped completely and won't go up at all.
Usually after a loud cracking noise, I believe.

Failure of the regulator motor or any other parts is quite rare.

Failure of the driver's master switch for windows and mirrors OTOH is not unheard of.

Sounds like you may have a switch problem, but ...

it is always worth making sure the window channels are as clean as you can get them to cure a slow rising window.

You may have a resistance there that makes the window go into safety mode and reverse.

The rubber parts need to be pliable (use a rubber dressing), and the fabric parts might benefit from something like powdered graphite to reduce resistance on the glass.

Worked for me, when one window tended to slow down near the top.

Regular use of the windows also seems to forestall any problems.
 
#37 ·
New to the boards. Just want to say thanks for all the help. Removed door panel and driver dog from my 04 X3. Just ordered from Tischer. My local dealer wanted $69.00 for the part. I live 40 miles away so figure in fuel to get there. Thanks to you folks $54.00 delivered to my fromt door. :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

Thanks Again!!
 
#39 ·
Bmw X3 Window Regulator Rear Left

I took the advise using Lubricator,WD40 which is easily can be found in my house. It does work and easily snap the clip into the holes. But here you have to be very careful since it is very slippery I suggest to wear glove with latex grips on it 'cos I didn't so I got cuts by sharp metal while wobbling into position. It seems to me problems rising one after another. Now that I had installed everything back into original places. When I ignite the engine key it won't start. I knew it wasn't battery down because audio system can be played...it just when ignite the engine the ABS flash and click click sound. Is this mean I have to reset the "ABS" I also realize the Clock also when to 00:00:00 I can't even turn the navigator on. Anybody know what I need to do? reset ABS? or something? Please help. Thank you!
 
#40 ·
... When I ignite the engine key it won't start. I knew it wasn't battery down because audio system can be played...it just when ignite the engine the ABS flash and click click sound. Is this mean I have to reset the "ABS" I also realize the Clock also when to 00:00:00 I can't even turn the navigator on. Anybody know what I need to do? reset ABS? or something? Please help. Thank you!
Don't be so sure it's not the battery; a battery may have enough juice to power low-draw accessory items like the audio system, but won't have enough to crank the engine.

The symptoms you're describing (particularly a clicking noise when you engage the starter) are the tell-tale signs of a weak battery. So, the first thing to do is check your battery: connections (for security), voltage, etc. It's possible that, while performing the repair work on your window regulator, that you had the door open enough times, and for long-enough periods, to draw down the battery. If so, put a battery charger on it for a day or so, then try to start it again. Jump-starting the car is also an option. Be prepared that the battery just might be shot and need replacement; if it's old (e.g., the original battery), it's time will come eventually...

Regarding the flaky indications (ABS, clock display, etc.): these X3's, like a lot of modern vehicles, are fussy about battery voltage; if it's just below the proper threshold, the electronics will do all sorts of weird things. Assuming your battery is just depleted, a properly charged battery should correct those problems.

Good luck!
 
#46 ·
Jumpstartign BMW X3 05' Model

Recently I realize my battery need a boost with battery booster pack. So I went online and bought Schumacher 750amp battery Jumpstarter. After package arrive I checked the booster to see if is fully charge. Indicator shown fully charge. I took the booster to the trunk where the X3 battery located. I connect the red clamp to positive battery. Black clamp to negative 'cos I don't see where I can ground the black clamp because the x3 model not like other ordinary where specified to ground on engine. In this scenario x3 battery surround with foam. When turnning on the ignition key it won't ignite the engine. Then decided to unclamp from battery next thing I know the car power completly gone. Before the process it use to have light when door open. Now no power. Can somebody tell mw what is going on? what I had done wrong? This is getting frustrated 'cos I relies this car to go to work. Thanking you in advance.
 
#47 ·
Thanks to all!

Thanks to all those who posted.... I am a newbie in auto reapir, but kenza's detailed instructions/photos and your shared experiences made the task real easy. Some observations:

  1. Supercourse mentioned that the drive-dog replacement is only for windows that have completely fallen down and will not go up. In my case the window would go up each time but stop around 3 inches short and I'd just pull it right to the top. I purchased a regulator locally, just in case.
  2. The drive-dog was much easier to remove (and to install the new one!) from the rail when I moved the dog to the part of the rail where the dog could do a 90+ degree rotation without any obstruction in the back. The "push" dog out (step 6 in kenza's instuctions) did not work for me.
  3. The tab was difficult for me to remove on the broken dog. I used a plastic ball-point pen to push it out. It was much easier to push out after I used a small metal pick to pull the black triangular foam cushion (on the dog) from under the glass.
  4. I had help, but could not get the tab on the new dog into the window. After multiple attempts I got it within 1mm and then decided to run the window all the way up. This worked the dog into the window - it made a loud pop when it sat in. I think this was risky, but it seemed to be the only option for me. Everything else I could think of would have damaged/bent the rail or the door frame.

I purchased the dog locally - it cost me $54 incl. tax. I had to purchase Torx bits - picked up a Titan 61 piece set from AutoZone for $15. I am going to invest in a plastic pry tool kit - the BSW tool kit is a little pricey as I have everything in the kit except the plastic tool. Will look to get a whole plastic SIR set for the same price if I cannot get the individual tool. This is a must-have as it took me forever to remove the trim and door panels using a plastic scraper.
Thanks again!!
 
#48 ·
Thanks to all those who posted.... I am a newbie in auto reapir, but kenza's detailed instructions/photos and your shared experiences made the task real easy. Some observations:

  1. Supercourse mentioned that the drive-dog replacement is only for windows that have completely fallen down and will not go up. In my case the window would go up each time but stop around 3 inches short and I'd just pull it right to the top. I purchased a regulator locally, just in case.
  2. The drive-dog was much easier to remove (and to install the new one!) from the rail when I moved the dog to the part of the rail where the dog could do a 90+ degree rotation without any obstruction in the back. The "push" dog out (step 6 in kenza's instuctions) did not work for me.
  3. The tab was difficult for me to remove on the broken dog. I used a plastic ball-point pen to push it out. It was much easier to push out after I used a small metal pick to pull the black triangular foam cushion (on the dog) from under the glass.
  4. I had help, but could not get the tab on the new dog into the window. After multiple attempts I got it within 1mm and then decided to run the window all the way up. This worked the dog into the window - it made a loud pop when it sat in. I think this was risky, but it seemed to be the only option for me. Everything else I could think of would have damaged/bent the rail or the door frame.

I purchased the dog locally - it cost me $54 incl. tax. I had to purchase Torx bits - picked up a Titan 61 piece set from AutoZone for $15. I am going to invest in a plastic pry tool kit - the BSW tool kit is a little pricey as I have everything in the kit except the plastic tool. Will look to get a whole plastic SIR set for the same price if I cannot get the individual tool. This is a must-have as it took me forever to remove the trim and door panels using a plastic scraper.
Thanks again!!
Harbor Freight sells a trim kit has everything you need for like $10.

http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-auto-trim-and-molding-tool-set-67021.html
 
#49 ·
I just did my left door rear driver dog (did the right side a year ago). took me 20 minutes now that I know what I am doing.

I got the drive dog for $15 on Ebay. WOW!!!!! the dealer wanted $56. the part is aftermarket but it fits and functions fine. you have to remove the rubber bempers from the broken pice and install on the new one.
 
#51 ·
On a related note, how are you guys unplugging the window switch and speaker connections without damaging the connectors? When I replaced all door speakers, they were very difficult to remove and I damaged one speaker connector. It looks like the connectors don't have a feature to unlock them once mated--leaving one to just yank it out when removal is needed.

In the event I need to do this regulator job, I'd like to know if there is a better way to unplug the connections other than with a quick, hard yank with a set of pliers.
 
#53 ·
how would one check to see if its the drive dog or the regulator?

I have fully disassembled my door panel, and I'm seeing the cable (behind the red plastic piece) move up and down in accordance with the switch.

My window is stuck in the downward position, and I was not with the car when the window stopped rolling up.

How will I check if that plastic part (which is supposed to be holding the cable via a nut) is broken?

Was about to order a new regulator, but I have strange feeling its just that clip thats broken.

The nut with the cable in it is supposed to remain stationary with that plastic white clip right?
 
#54 ·
how would one check to see if its the drive dog or the regulator?

I have fully disassembled my door panel, and I'm seeing the cable (behind the red plastic piece) move up and down in accordance with the switch.

My window is stuck in the downward position, and I was not with the car when the window stopped rolling up.

How will I check if that plastic part (which is supposed to be holding the cable via a nut) is broken?

Was about to order a new regulator, but I have strange feeling its just that clip thats broken.

The nut with the cable in it is supposed to remain stationary with that plastic white clip right?
I got the window halfway up so now i can see the white plastic part. Not sure how to tell if its broken. Would the cable not move side to side?
 
#60 ·
Dealer told me "tech doesn't recommend replacing only that part, so we'd have to do the entire window regulator. You're looking at $428 out the door."
That is such crap...just another example of a dealer trying to squeeze as much money out of a customer as possible. I would avoid that particular dealer like the plague. I do understand that they are in business to make money but replacing parts unnecessarily just to drive the cost up is completely unethical.
 
#63 ·
2005 X3 Rear Window

I successfully replaced the the drive dog but the window doesn't stop when it gets to the top. It returns down several inches then stops. I tried using the switch to manually raise and lower it but that is not working to reset the thresholds. Any suggestions? In the instructions I followed it said to remove the motor assembly by removing the 3 bolts to gain access to the plastic block. Whin I did this the front half of the motor only came off and the cable came off the spool. I had to rewind and re-install the spool which was a bitch. Removing the motor was not necessary. Hopefully this has not caused the window stopping problem. I would appreciate any suggestions.

Thanks!

FYI
I did
my friends 2004 X3 window regulator repair for both rear windows (only one was broken, but I dont want to do it again, so do both at once). Simply replaced the drive dog, instead​
of the entire window regulator module. $100 for two drive dogs, and $30 for two vapor barriers. First one was a pain and took long until i realized you should move the drive dog up and down to easily remove the window and the dog itself from the rail. 2nd window took about 20min. A note, replacing just the dog itself is faster then the entire regulator module, and also cheaper =)

My vapor barriers are on order. I decided not to risk my friend complaining of water leaks and simply ripped off the old barriers. It took quite a while to remove the barriers from the gooey stuff. I have Permatex silicon adhesive/sealant purchased at local pepboys to reseal the barriers. The gooey stuff has dirt indicating where the water would tend to flow, so this should make identifying where to ensure I reseal correctly. The old gooey stuff is still on there, so that should provide something to hold the barriers as the seal I apply cures.

The windows require manually going all the way and all the way down to re-learn the thresholds for auto up/down functionality. I was confused at first, but figured it out.

Drive Dogs are : http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=PC73&mospid=49510&btnr=51_5134&hg=51&fg=10&hl=3
Items 51333448643 and 51353448645
 
#65 ·
I successfully replaced the the drive dog but the window doesn't stop when it gets to the top. It returns down several inches then stops. I tried using the switch to manually raise and lower it but that is not working to reset the thresholds. Any suggestions? In the instructions I followed it said to remove the motor assembly by removing the 3 bolts to gain access to the plastic block. Whin I did this the front half of the motor only came off and the cable came off the spool. I had to rewind and re-install the spool which was a bitch. Removing the motor was not necessary. Hopefully this has not caused the window stopping problem. I would appreciate any suggestions.

Thanks!
This probably doesn't help much, but I just replaced the drivedog on my 2004 rear left side. When finished, my window did the same thing. It would go up to the top and then retract down an inch or two. A few times all the way down and then up resolved the problem. On guessing it had to relearn the parameters.

Sent from my PC36100 using Bimmer App
 
#64 ·
Hi guys, my white plastic piece also broke a while ago, dealer said they didn't sell "just that part" I would have to buy whole regulator. So I did from eBay about $40 bucks. I took out whole bad regulator and installed new one worked great... For a while then crack pop! Same noise as when it started NOT going up or down so I took door panel off and discovered the little black piece that holds the nut that holds the screw that hold the window to the regulator was destroyed. So I when to dealer got new one and new nut and bolt and new plastic door panel clips because of course I broke a few of those off put it all back together worked fine. Then a little later pow! Crack! Pop! Did it again. I'm not sure what I'm doing wrong, regulator and motor work fine but those little black pieces keep Breslin like the window is slipping too far on them and also if window is rolled down and I shut the door, well you actually here is wiggle and like its popped off that black thing again. Dealer said $165 just to look at it and I know they're gonna tell me " oh new regulator" so $400 I'm sure. Any ideas? I'm so sick of taking that thin apart and cutting up my hands and sweating and cussing
 
#66 ·
Perhaps six months after buying our 04, both rear windows went out. Still under warranty at the time, so dealer replaced. Service Mgr gave me a tip (which I haven't seen here). He says failure of rear windows perhaps comes from pro-longed non-use. Suggested we periodically raise and lower rear windows to prevent "sticking" and breaking. We've followed his advice and have had no problems since. Just for what it's worth...
 
#69 ·
... "Exercise" them periodically to prevent "sticking". Have done so, and have had no further problems.
I agree with that. When possible, leave parked overnight with the windows just off the fully closed position to avoid that cracking sound on first use of the day.

That makes sense, problem is its my driver side window so it gets used all the time
Another theory that has been put forward on forums for other models is that damage to the drive dog and maybe other plastic parts happens when a door is slammed with the window down.

Not as much support for the mechanism when glass in the down position.

This could be an explanation for how newly acquired used X3s seem to suffer failure of the windows in the early days of new ownership.
 
#70 · (Edited)
Thanks to everybody who posted

Just replaced the front driver window regulator. In my case it wasn't the dog that had broken, the cable had sheared the pulley that both ends of the cable fit to.

Dealer quoted $600+ to fit new regulator. Found a NEW one on line for $33 including delivery!

The hardest part was unclipping the existing dogs from the window. Eventually did it using the SIRS prying tools and a lot of force. It took me a while to get over the fear of breaking the window.

I disconnected the -ve terminal on the battery so I could disconnect the airbag and move the door panel away. The downside to this is you cannot test the window until you put stuff back.
Now he pane is back on the window is going up and down but it seems like there is some resistance versus other windows. I will have to re look to make sure there is no obstruction. Anybody else had this problem?

Getting the window back not the new dogs was also hard but I found getting help from a friend to push down on the window while I pushed up on the dogs soon got it in place. Jus hoping I don't have to undo it again!
 
#71 ·
Just replaced the front driver window regulator. In my case it wasn't the dog that had broken, the cable had sheared the pulley that both ends of the cable fit to.
.... using the SIRS prying tools and a lot of force.
Useful info. Thanks.

What were your symptoms for the front window?

Slight reversing before going up when lifting the switch? I am starting to get that.

The rear windows seem to fail most often.
Maybe the front ones less so because they have 2 drive clips/dogs - one at each end.
Makes sense that the pulleys could be the weak point for the front windows.

I have a pair of drive dogs at the ready, for left or right rear, or one front window.
Maybe I should get a couple of pulleys too.

One member earlier reported that an easy way to get the glass back into a new dog is to raise the window a bit and then power it down.
It self-engages the knob on the dog with an unnerving noise, but it works.

No tricks for releasing the glass though, other than force and not being concerned that it will break.

Is that a Sears pry tool or there is a SIRS brand?
 
#74 · (Edited)
Wow, this thread is still going. Glad it helped so many out.

I have not experienced this part failure on my wife's 07 X3 so the part may have been revised over the years.

Side note - I found construction butyl tape (thicker width too!) at my Home Depot in the window section so that may be a feasible alternative to expensive BMW butyl tape =)
 
#75 ·
i'm not here as often as i am in other forums. but hey, every time somethings wrong w/ my X3 i come here to find the solution. window broke last week. ordered parts from irvine bmw, came in special order same day. got to install and fix everything yesterday. awesome write up and fix. only thing left wrong was the window switch on the pax door itself. i didn't really care since the master driver switch works anyways. thanks guys!
 
#76 ·
Drivers window switch panel out. 2005 X3

New problem with windows on my 05 X3. The drivers side window switch panel is completely dead. None of the switches work (4 windows, side view mirrors, child window lock, night lights). I seems like the power is shut off to that switch panel. It was on and off until it finally went out completely. I checked all the fuses and they are fine. The passenger side window works on it's own switch but the rear windows do not. I'm assuming because the child window lock is out. I'm going to take the door apart but not sure what to look for. Any suggestions on the cause and repair or what to check inside the door? Thanks!
 
#77 ·
New problem with windows on my 05 X3. The drivers side window switch panel is completely dead. None of the switches work (4 windows, side view mirrors, child window lock, night lights). I seems like the power is shut off to that switch panel. It was on and off until it finally went out completely. I checked all the fuses and they are fine. The passenger side window works on it's own switch but the rear windows do not. I'm assuming because the child window lock is out. I'm going to take the door apart but not sure what to look for. Any suggestions on the cause and repair or what to check inside the door? Thanks!
2004 x3. Same exact issue right now. Panel is not working. All passenger windows work individually.

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#78 · (Edited)
I just replaced the driving dog on my left rear window. There's a couple notes I think people should know about:

1) make sure not to bend the metal rod for the lock button. I did. It was a PAIN to fix.

2) I'm not convinced the "vapor barrier" blocks water. I extensively tested it and at no point saw water from it, even with it off. What I believe people might be seeing is water in their floor board because the door panel is off and water enters from the sides - not the barrier. I spoke to BMW about this and even they said it was simply for sound insulation. As such, there isn't really a point to replacing it or spending a lot of time with it. I simply used a hair dryer and resealed the old one - no problems.

3) last, on the new door dog there is a good chance the window will not snap onto the clip with the rubber pads. Just take them off. They aren't necessary.


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#79 ·
... I'm not convinced the "vapor barrier" blocks water. ...... I spoke to BMW about this and even they said it was simply for sound insulation. As such, there isn't really a point to replacing it or spending a lot of time with it. I simply used a hair dryer and resealed the old one - no problems.
Interesting point.

I had noticed that BMW calls it Sound Insulation in realoem, and from the foam nature of it that's what it feels like.

But I am sure it serves a double purpose as a water barrier as well.

Not sure why your test with it removed didn't show any water penetration - maybe angle of attack?

I certainly wouldn't recommend leaving it off. Re-sealing as you did is the way to go.

What does seem to be unknown is whether the adhesive inevitably dries out and causes a leak at some point, or if that happens for other reasons - such as body flex, dent repairs, etc.

At least when damaged or torn, a replacement is a reasonable cost at around $17 fronts and $12 rears.
 

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#82 · (Edited)
I still disagree. It just doesn't make logical sense that its meant to keep out water yet a dozen holes are under it that would let water through. Your basically arguing that we should close our front door so bugs don't get in but not worry about all the windows open!

And they aren't vapor barriers. There is no vapor. It's acoustic foam to reduce noise.

My point, however, isn't to argue. I just dont think its fair to let people worry about their "vapor" barriers when they don't have to.

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#84 ·
I have done many window regulators in the E46. The simple answer, without question, is for you to leave out the vapor barrier and sees what happens. OR just don't seal the bottom part.
My experience: the few times I did not seal the vapor barrier properly it resulted in massive water on the floor next to that window------after a heavy rain. But test this for yourself.
Not sure what the story is for other than E46's
 
#87 · (Edited)
Your drains were clogged. Thats it. Its not water barrier. Its sound deadener. I drove many bmws without door panels and the sound deadener at all for weight drop. None were leaking because there are drains in bottom of the door. Other cars I replaced it with dynomat for better sound deadening. And no, it doesnt apply just to one car. It applies to all bmws. I had over 20 of different kinds of bmws, and most were taken apart at one time or another.

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#85 · (Edited)
So on cars that were entirely different and originally ten tears older the vapor barrier actually did block water? SHOCKER!

As for the tape, nearly all car makers use it in their doors.

Last, BMW says their self that its meant for sound insulation. Not water. Further, I had to wait three days for the dog to come in. No water with barrier completely off but door panel reinstalled for the mean time. IT POURED HERE CONSTANTLY THOSE DAYS.

I'm sorry but you're wrong. You're probably Correct regarding the issue on another car but BMW must have done research between the e39 and e83. No surprise there.


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#86 ·
Also, my opinion of the driving dog is that it's made of plastic for a good reason. I know everyone complains of its failure and constant breakage, by just imagine if it was made with a better material like metal. I would much rather replace a simple plastic part each time than a whole window from the metal failing and cracking the window at the same time.


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