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DIY: F10 Wheel spacer install

29K views 47 replies 15 participants last post by  LMK 
#1 · (Edited)
This mod is as easy as changing a tire. For those that may be a bit apprehensive, I took a few pics and made some notes for the install.

I installed 15mm Turner Motorsports spacers on the rear of my 2011 535i (F10). She is wearing the factory 19" sport wheels with 275/35/19 rubber on the rear.

I am very happy with this mod as I feel that it gives the vehicle a more muscular look. There is no change in ride quality and no vibrations (I had someone sit in the rear and took her up to triple digits to check).

Before starting, make sure to apply the parking brakes! Also remember to recheck the torque on the lugs after 2 weeks of driving. BMW recommends 90 ft-lb of torque.

Materials I used for the install:
- jack
- anti-seize cream (found only in auto parts store)
- wire brush
- torque wrench

Here is the link to the pics and notes for the install: DIY WHEEL SPACER INSTALL

Before - After



AFTER...........................................................
 
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#2 · (Edited)
UPDATE:

I lowered my vehicle with ACS springs (modest drop) and the rear spaced wheels have lost its wide look. Of course the wheels will camber in a bit when the car is lowered (even after an alignment).

I decided to add 10mm front wheel spacers as it was more obvious they sat in (again, after the spring install). So far I have to say that I am not a big fan of using the 10mm spacers on the front. I feel like I have a slight vibration from my wheels at interstate speed (yes, I checked the torque on the lugs), and I don't like how it makes the rear spacing look square. Before the rear looked to sit wider and meaner. I think I may buy some 18mm spacers for the rear now. I was even debating about 20mm, but that may be a bit much. Thoughts?

Here is the link of the pics of the front wheels before and after:

https://plus.google.com/photos/1107...ms/5979264436431921969?authkey=CLPawO6T_fzhUQ






 
#3 ·
Thanks for posting the before/after pics!

I did this same mod to my E60 and LOVED the results. Haven't done it to Mrs. Bick's F10 yet, but have been toying with it. The F10 already has a nice wide stance, but filling up those wheel wells makes it look even better.
 
#4 ·
Looks good. Details - how much were the spacers? Also do you still have that jack for when the rest of the Dallas crew does this mod? LOL
 
#5 · (Edited)
LMAO. Always free install for my DFW F10 fam!

As far as price is concerned, I think I may have persuaded them to change their selling format on this. Initially they sold the Turner spacers for $134.99 + $44.5 for the 10 extended black bolts (10x $4.45). All that did not even include shipping!!
http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-4...4x125-black-e70-f01-f10-f25-f30-mini-r56.aspx

I emailed back and forth with Doug @ TMS. I asked if he could match the sale at Burger Motorsports for the $99.99 deal (spacer and lugs). He was kind enough to do so. They also never listed their spacers as applicable for the F10. After my dozen emails, they have finally added us to the list :D.

Now notice that the link has the F10 listed, AND also has this at the end of the description:
"Sold as a pair of spacers with ten black wheel bolts."

http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-1...s-with-bolts-bmw-f10-f01-f12-x5m-x6-pair.aspx

http://www.turnermotorsport.com/c-16-bmw-wheels.aspx

I will say that the quality of the Turner spacer is great, and the graphite/dark grey color is pretty sharp. Honestly, I would also not hesitate to recommend the ECS spacer or even the Burger. As long as the wheel bolts are black, I think you are good to go :thumbup:.
 
#6 ·
This mod is as easy as changing a tire. For those that may be a bit apprehensive, I took a few pics and made some notes for the install.

^^^
Good Job man!

Looks way better. Was on the fence about it but now seeing yours....sigh looks like the wallet's gonna get a little lighter.

Thanks Deep....:thumbup:
 
#9 ·
Very nice Deep! Gonna have to take you up on that install offer someday. It looks too nice not to do the same mod. We should do a DFW group install. :thumbup:
 
#11 ·
If you use them, yes. IMHO, I would not use them on any of my cars. They are a PITA.
 
#14 ·
I did not put spacers on the front; however, I considered it. I wanted to try the rear first. I have heard that spacing out the wheels can sometimes cause vibration and place a little more pressure on the hub. I also figured that there is a lot less weight, movement, and moving parts in the rear (vs the front - ie. steering assembly and front-end).
 
#17 ·
So I will likely have the 356 style wheels on my F10 so i'm not sure if this has any impact on this mod. The rear tire is now slightly wider (9 vs. 8.5), but i'm not sure it changes anything for the wheel spacer needed. Can anyone with insight comment?
 
#20 ·
Have you guys ever thought what would happen if you decided to drop the 5er to reduce the top wheel gap, ala ACS springs or the like? Think it would rub with the 15mm spacers or even the 10mm? Springs are on my future possible mods list if I can get my wife to not pull up so close to the parking block. (She drives it sometimes)

Sent from my HTC VLE_U using Bimmer App
 
#21 ·
I have read of others that actually used 20mm spacers on the rear with an ACS, and even an Eibach drop - with no rubs or problems.

As always CP, we are on the same page. I am really wanting to do an ACS drop; however, the wifey and curbs are my biggest concern. I will still probably do it sometime in 2013 :D.
 
#22 ·
So this may be a super dumb question... Just got my 550i...got my wheel spacers from Turner (btw, awesome experience with those guys!), got my torque wrench (1/2 inch), going to get my sieze cream and wire brush later today...so...

- Can i use any car jack? I don't have a BMW specific one (if there is such a thing), and the one i have is not the big wheeled kind, just a jack from another car.
- What kind of lug nut do i need? As far as i can tell, the lug nut is not in the trunk tool area.
 
#23 · (Edited)
Can i use any car jack? I don't have a BMW specific one (if there is such a thing), and the one i have is not the big wheeled kind, just a jack from another car.
You have two jacking options:
1) there are four jack points built into the chassis, two just behind the front wheels on each side, and two just in front of the back wheels on each side. These jack points are recessed, with plastic sides - you CANNOT simply put a jack onto the plastic and lift the car without destroying them, probably denting the metal sheeting around them, and causing the lifted car to be unstable. You need a jack that can fit into the socket.

F10's don't have spare tires, so they don't bother providing a jack. The jack that came with E39s and E60s (and probably other BMWs as well) will work just fine, as they have a shoe that fits up into the jack point.

Alternatively, you can do what I did and fashion a small block of hardwood that fits into the socket, and use that as the jack point. There are also aluminum jack pad inserts that you can buy online for this purpose, but they're a little pricey for what they are.

2) You can use the center jack points to raise the entire front (under the engine), or the entire rear of the car (under the differential in the rear). As long as you have a long-handled jack with a flat jack head that has the lifting capacity you should be fine. I prefer this method, as its quicker and I can place two jack stands on opposites sides quickly and easily.

What kind of lug nut do i need? As far as i can tell, the lug nut is not in the trunk tool area.
I assume you mean lug nut socket? You're going to need a 17 mm deep socket to remove the lug nuts.
 
#24 · (Edited)
Great answer Bick!

I will say that the anit-seize and wire brush are optional items. If your car is new or you has minimal rust, you can use a brillo pad or any firm brush to clean the area. As long as the area the spacer is touching is clean, you are ok. Sometimes small patches of rust or debris can cause it to not sit flush. The tolerance is pretty tight on these Turner spacers - which is great!!

I used a 17mm deep socket:



You can see the square jack point Bick was talking about :



My jack has a large rubber seat, so luckily no damage occurred. If you want to play it safe, you can get on of these from BMS: http://burgertuning.com/BMW_jack_pad_adapter.html



Best wishes bro. It would be great to see some pics ;)
 
#30 ·
Half way done...first wheel no issue. Second wheel won't come off, lol. Now what? Any suggestions?

(Yes, all nuts are out, i've tried "kicking", prying, bumping, slightly lowering back to wheel to see if weight might "unstick" it, etc...)
 
#32 ·
Be careful! All seem like good options, with the later making me a little nervous. Yeah, the wheels do stick a bit with the tight fitment and inevitable rust. I would continue to keep kicking and pulling on one specific spot, and than turning the wheel 180 and repeating. Best wishes.
 
#33 ·
Short drive to end of street and back didn't do it (i figured the driveway to street transition would give it the necessary jolt...no such luck). A little bit of WD40 soak and well placed Chuck Norris hits did it. Pictures coming up!

Note: Terrible weather here yesterday so car is super dirty so i'm not personally happy with how this makes my car look but i didn't have the time or patience to wash it today just so it can look good for BF!
 
#35 ·
What kind of rims do you have? Are they BMW? Are they original?
 
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