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M62TU Head gasket/ Timing guides journal

25K views 63 replies 21 participants last post by  berkeleydojah 
#1 · (Edited)
Does anyone have any tricks for removing the heads on a 540i.

I have everything unbolted. I twas told I could remove with the exhaust manifolds in place but I am having trouble wrestling this out because the timing rails are in the way to get the angle correct.

Any tips would be appreciated. There is not much room to remove exhaust manifold bolts.

Thanks in advance.
 
#33 · (Edited)
My machine guy, told me the heads had almost no warpage. He took of a few thousandths to clear up some on the nicks on the heads because I had such a time removing it. He said I could use the stock thickness head gaskets with no problems.

Correct me if I am wrong but he said the v8 heads normally do not warp as bad as the I6 because if the length.

I took a fine disk and a super fine sharpening stone about 12 inches long to the deck of the block and checked it with a straight edge and feeler gauge.

I've never done but I have heard you can use 1000 F aluminum pain and paint a light coat over the deck to fill in any dips.

I busted 2 radiators on this car in about a 2 week time period. I was going to sell it but decided to tear it apart. While apart, I saw the guides and the other issues.

I am no expert but I am learning as I go along. It has definitely been a job, but I know I could cut 2/3 off the time after knowing the tricks now.

My only part that makes me nervous is setting the valve timing.
 
#35 ·
I have never heard of this paint method. I believe the head gasket itself should have a coating. I think its a multi (3?) layer metal gasket with some elastomeric coatings, so no need for this paint coat you're thinking of. Anyway I think the block usually warps less than the head so you should be okay. And yes, the warpage of the sixes are greater due to the length.

The straight edge, feeler and sharpening stone should be enough. This is really a technique issue, it helps to have a really flat stone, the larger the better. Did I mention flat, a flat stone is really important. Clean the stone often, as aluminum is "gummy".:thumbup:
 
#36 ·
Glad that's u doing it and not me, what a hell of. Job .... just my two cents but a light spay coat of copper gasket spay from permatex under the gasket will do u justice since u really didn't deck the block...

U could be a few thousands out of parallel, this copper spay will make up the difference

Sent from my ADR6300 using Bimmer App
 
#38 ·
the valve covers look great Kelley!

You have to replace that broken hub though, I absolutely insist. Any slightest bit out of balance at the crank is going to shorten the life of that engine or pose other problems such as balancer coming off while running, and with a chunk that big missing plus the bolt you will be unable to put there it's just asking for trouble. Get in touch with me and we'll get you a new one coming.
 
#39 ·
Its been a few days but being in the restaurant business, well you know. Valentines Day.

I found a local shop through BMWCCA and this nice guy loaned me his timing kit for FREE!

What a cool dude, not Taiwanese but actual BMW parts.

I havent had much time as of late but a few hours here and there. But she is coming along nice.

This job is not for the faint of heart only because of the hours involved. Setting the timing was really easy. The book makes it sound like putting together a jigsaw puzzle blind, but with the tools, it is really no trouble at all.

Gotta go back to work! Post more pics tomorrow, my day off!!!
 

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#40 · (Edited)
Great progress, good for you! I may be going through a similar deal very soon as well, you've probably seen my thread about low compression on E39 540i :)

Do you happen to remember the size of the crankshaft center bolt? I need to verify my timing, and I'm pretty sure I don't yet have a socket that large.

Lucky you, you got to use the timing tool for FREE, I will most likely end up buying a set.
 
#41 ·
The socket is 27mm for the center bolt. I spent a day machining a tool for the counter hold to get it off but I can do it by myself now. Mine holds at 8 point compared to 4 and attaches to a 3/4 inch break over bar.

Feel free to IM me and I will give you any tips I experienced.
 
#43 ·
Yes, you are correct.

Do you intend to replace the timing guide rails? You dont need to remove the lower cover if you are just doing a valve job.

I got ALOT done today. I am hours from finishing. Only need to put on the belts, vacuum system, and cooling hoses, and I can fire her up to see if she runs.

I worked in the dark so my last photo in the daylight I will post.
 

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#46 · (Edited)
Well guys, it has been 3 long weeks but the 540 is purring like a kitten now. Boy the first time I started the motor it sounded AWFUL until the hydraulics built up.

THEN I had a coolant leak into the number 7 cylinder. It was leaking coolant past the rings into the oil pan. So I took the valve covers off and re torqued the heads with a torque wrench to 65 ft pounds. She was still smoking a little. So I called Bars Products. The man Frank informed me that aluminum has a problem sealing at times. So I put the Bars product HG1, half a bottle. I was out of options. :dunno: Within 8 minutes the smoke a miss was GONE! Before, the coolant light was coming on after about 5 miles. I ran the car at 1500 rpms for 20 minutes to insure the seal, and let the motor cool. No coolant was missing. Just a nice stream from the bleeder. :thumbup:

I rapidly changed the oil and filter and the #7 plug that was fouled. Now the car literally runs PERFECT. The sodium silica and reenforced with carbon fibers seals the leaks and does not coagulate with anti-freeze. The best 65 I ever spent. Bars told me for new gaskets that have not quite sealed perfectly that Rolls and Jaguar use this off the assembly line.

So was it a picture perfect story? NO but you cannot even hear the car idle. Drove it about 30 miles with no issues and the system bled perfectly. Purest will argue, but I was going to have to remove the head anyway if it did not work.

So I am happy. No coolant leaks, no white smoke, no timing chain noise and the car has more pep than it ever did since I owned it.

I will keep everyone informed on the effectiveness of the product.
 

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#51 ·
So I put the Bars product HG1, half a bottle. ... Within 8 minutes the smoke a miss was GONE! ... The sodium silica and reenforced with carbon fibers seals the leaks and does not coagulate with anti-freeze. The best 65 I ever spent.
Wow. A miracle does come in a bottle! :)

I'm glad you have your engine back! This is a great reference thread for others. I already added it to the best links so others learn from all that you've done.

Thanks for helping out the team.
 
#50 ·
Car is doing great! Thanks for asking.

I had a leaking valve cover I fixed and a problem with a leaky injector but after that, no engine problems.

I had the transmission serviced with a new filter and new ZF fluid. She shifts much smoother now.

I did the whole job for around 2100 replacing the timing rails, head work with new exhaust guides, gaskets, new tensioners, powder coating, plugs, oil separator, pvc tube, and gaskets.

I am glad i fixed the car rather than scrapping as I originally started to. I can say I know every bolt on the car now.

I may at a later date pull the upper pan and change the rod bearings and check the rings and wrist pins but that can wait.
 
#52 ·
The bars is fine. No fluid loss what so ever. I think I had a high place on the deck because the leak was fixed in less than 5 minutes once it started to circulate.

I drained that stuff out this weekend when I changed a rear heater hose. But I am satisfied with the result.
 
#55 ·
Any updates? Still running well? Do you still feel strongly that Bars HG1 did trick?
 
#61 ·
Hi everyone I know this is an old thread but I'm about to embark on doing my vanos and head gaskets in my m62tu,...I have the manual for the m62, but it doesn't cover the vanos on the TU, so my only concern is that it's the same proso
cedure (other then the vanos) to take off the heads...is the bolt pattern the same and the trq values? For the m62 it says they are trq'd to 80lbs then another 160° in 3 stages...I know you guys are all more knowledgeable then me lol but any tips or things u guys have encountered would be much appreciated. Between the manual and the printouts on the vanos I'm feeling confident, but I'm not sure about the heads [emoji14] thanks guys

Sent from my SM-G930W8 using Bimmerfest mobile app
 
#62 ·
German Auto Solutions has some instructions on their website to go with the timing tools they sell, you might want to poke around there to see if the info you need is in them.
 
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