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Sound System Improvement Stage One

309K views 432 replies 96 participants last post by  Mic10is 
#1 ·
I have been asked on numerous occasions about stereo equipment for the X3 since I have installed them in two separate X3's (07 and 08) and helped dozens of others including some dealerships.

Stereo installations can be done in stages just like performance or handling enhancements can be done in most vehicles until the desired impact is achieved. This helps to not only spread out the cost, but keep it to a minimum.

At the end of this whole series I will post some pics and "DIY" instructions.

For those that are new to the forum my recommendation come from over 35 years in the music industry as well as 20 years as a radio broadcast engineer with such big radio station names as DC 101 where Howard Stern started, and doing sound for a number of popular bands or groups.

Please bear in mind with my experience and even more --- these are only suggestions since the human ear is the most perfectly diverse piece of audio test equipment available and what sounds good to me might sound like (expletive) to you :).

This will be done in five stages:

Since there are so many different variations I will make suggestions in what I consider to be each stage of improving your X3's basic business sound system. IF you have the higher grade sound system, you are probably content and don't need my meddling.

First (Stage One): Speakers

speakers like tires can be an easy change but make a world of difference. I will not go into the full details of what specs are what, but only recommend ones I know will fit and have the proper electrical acceptability to the OEM sound system. Prices are approximate and taken from Crutchfield as it is an easy link and has good descriptions.

Alpine SPS-400 $70 all around good sound most popular http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500SPS400/Alpine-SPS-400.html?tp=102&tab=features_and_specs

Infinity Reference Series $130 favors the brighter side of music if your hearing is dulling these will certainly let you hear the sound of Santana as well as the violins of Tchaikovsky. Will also take more power if and amp is later added. http://signature.crutchfield.com/s_108429I/Infinity-Kappa-42-9i.html?tp=102

Focals 100 VRS $600 not cheap. This is really pushing it. I won't spend this kind of money, but if you have it and are serious about sound these are the best that will fit in your X3. Please be advised that they will never sound great with out additional power, like an external amp. http://signature.crutchfield.com/s_091100VRS/Focal-Polyglass-100-VRS.html?tp=102

Stage Two will be HU and external components that allow you to keep your HU but add other equipment. As there are a number of new things out (that even I have my eye on) I want to do more research before I post this. Plus too much will bore you to death.

Hope this helps,

EE:thumbup: Please PM questions (for greater detail) with regard to each stage as posted
 
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#43 · (Edited)
Hi,

Just want to thank you for your post recommending a couple of reasonably cheap but good speaker options. I had 4 of the Alpine speakers shipped to me from ebay and had them all installed in x3 today. Guess what! I hear a significant sound difference. The audio technician who did the install for me also said the speaker sounds fairly good. Thanks to your advice, I'm a happier bimmer driving a 2006 x3 3.0d in South Korea.

Thanks a lot!

Cheers,
 
#44 ·
Door Speakers

Attached are some pics I took while doing some recon on the 5 1/4 speaker idea.

It can be done, but not for the faint of heart. And will require some serious attention and patience.

The problems are depth and placement as you will see by the pics. BMW has managed to make it near impossible to use any speaker with a large magnet depth and circumference. I'll let the pics speak and ask me any questions to fill in the blanks.

The nice thing is that they leave an easy spot to insert 1 inch tweeters if you have the basic speakers at this time

BTW the easiest part is removing the door panels.

3 screws --door with no air bag

4 screws --door with air bag (under "air bag" tab).

Carefully pry the wood inserts starting at the bottom with a nylon pry tool. NO METAL pry tool. Use a twisting clock wise motion and they should come up easily.

Use a torx 20 screwdriver to remove screws.
lift panel from bottom and pull out.

Disconnect wiring for windows by carefully pulling out molex connector.

Disconnect door handle cable by pulling down slowly and un hitch small red tab insert, then left up nylon connector.

Once all wires are disconnected lift door panel straight up (I put the window almost all the way down to prevent erroneous scratches).

Don't forget to disconnect speaker wires from speaker.

The rest should be self-explanatory from pics but feel free to pm or post.

The last pic is to show the metal backboard to the door panel.
 

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#45 ·
Aftermarket Replacement for Business CD?

Hello Evlengr, apparently we have a common past. I was ALSO a radio engineer at DC-101... in 1978! I built the studios at 1150 Conn. Ave. when they first went to remote studios.

Here's the problem:

I have a 2004 X3 (which I bought as a CPO used vehicle) with a "Business CD" that is flaky. The dealer wants $1050 to repair/replace the unit. I figured I would go aftermarket with a unit from Crutchfield, which I have done numerous times with other cars since the early 80's. Crutchfield wanted to know if I had an 8- or 10-speaker system. Since I couldn't see 10 speakers, I chose 8... Wrong! When I took my new radio with the supplied harness from Crutchfield to a local installer as directed, the harness didn't fit.

I've since learned that the Business CD is an upgraded unit, so I guess I have the 10 speaker radio. Problem - Crutchfield does not have a harness for this configuration. Now, in my youth I would have just hacked into the harness and worked it out. It's not rocket science, and I should know - I build satellites for a living these days. I just want a simple installation - I have no free time.

Do you have any advice for a simple aftermarket replacement for the Business CD in my 2004 X3 short of cutting up the harness and probing it all out?
 
#46 ·
Hello. Posting my first post so I can PM Evlengr. I am having zero luck finding pictures of the SPS-400 install. I ordered some for my 2010 X3, have one rear door off and one 4" speaker out (business CD, no sound upgrade). Now I am unsure about the required wiring and how to mount a speaker with 4 screws into the slot which had 3. Thanks for anyone's help...
 
#47 ·
Look closely at picture 5 above it shows a 4 inch speaker. Now look at the bottom of the speaker. I used a nylon washer to clamp down on the ring of the speaker basket while securing it with two on the top.

I am going to repost all my pix on Friday with a bullet point how to.

Got a number of questions in the past week and figured this way I can answer all of them (hopefully) in one fail swoop :)

EE
 
#49 · (Edited)
Sorry sixteen hour work days takes some motivation to keep repeating the same things over and over.

Promise to get to it when I can see straight. :thumbup:

Think I may just open a tech support phone line.

Up to you I have a phone number that I use for spam calls, Lol.

Just looked over my post on installing speakers.

Not sure how the above post doesnt explain it clear enough.

Not to be mean but if it doesn't you may want to have a pro do it.

Only thing I left out was that if you look at the pix for the infinity speakers you will see that I used the top two factory screws and then used a washer to act a lip to secure the bottom portion.

The same applies to the sps-400. In fact they were easier.
 
#50 ·
BMWNA Getting Smart?

This just in from radio trade rags:

BMW's Pandora integration goes live.
BMW car owners are now able to connect their iPhone to the dashboard to listen to Pandora. The automaker released its mobile application yesterday, the first third-party app approved by BMW for use in its in-car system on select 2011 and 2012 models.

I am friggin impressed. Been sayng this is where radio is going now for the past five years.

BMW is one of over a dozen car mfg that is intergrating broad band into their vehicles. Better late than never.
 
#53 ·
Adri they are an older set of the Kappa series. It seems the newer design does not fit well because of depth issues and the diameter of the magnet.

Nothing but a 4 inch or 100mm will fit without cutting and some elaborate changes.

I can tell you hands down the Alpine will fit and the newer models area bit better.

Sonicelectronix is a very good web site for stereo gear. They are around 30% or more cheaper than anyone else I have seen.

Crutchfield is a good reference for descriptions that are not confusing and written in more every day terminology.

Please feel free to PM if I can help more.

I have since modified my viewpoint somewhat and can explain nice ways to improve your sound system and keep the stock head unit and its features. This keeps prying eyes from prying out your sound system and aesthetically it is pleasing to most.
 
#55 ·
What's BT?

Hi Evlengr,

Thanks for the great post!

I just bought a 2008 X3 3.0 si from the states (I live in Canada now). I'd like to plan for a stereo upgrade and your post provides a lot of info.

I read that HU or H/U stands for Head Unit, but what does BT stand for?

Also, sorry if you stated this and I missed it, but is there a particular amp you recommend?

Do you practice Aikido? I take Aikikai here in Canada.

Sincerely,

Ted
 
#56 ·
Hi all,

Just an update on my upgrade findings

I took the left rear door apart yesterday and fitted a 4" (100mm) Coax Speaker of approx 50mm depth without major problems. I can now see what Evlengr means and I have to agree that this size is certainly the maximum size possible in these doors.

I will now be looking at getting some better quality component speakers in there to use as Mid-Hi only and then start moving gradually to the under seat Low and eventually a Sub in the trunk.

One more question for you....

When I check in the Rear left part of my trunk I only have a Bluetooth module in there. Definitely no Amplifier and also definitely no spare connectors that I could use to add an Amplifier and or a CD Player for multiple discs and or a Navigation DVD Unit. Now, if I wanted to add an Amplifier, where would I get the audio input from? And also where would I get access to all of the current speakers cables from? Behind the Business CD Radio? How can this Original source power 3 ways per channel (Front, Rear and Under Seat Subs) without an Amp? or his the Amp somewhere else?

Under the Arm Rest in the front there is the Aux Input, but I would have liked to have found the CD Changer input as well and I do not seem to see it under there. I would have liked to have avoided having to rewire the entire car!!! in particular, if I place the Amp/Amps in the trunk, I would then have to run cables from there to all the speakers! I would have thought that they had allowed for the Amp in the rear and have all the speakers cables also running from there. Is it possible that they only do that if you have a stereo upgrade??? Seems strange.

I look forward to your feedback.

Thanks again,
Adri
 
#58 ·
When I check in the Rear left part of my trunk I only have a Bluetooth module in there. Definitely no Amplifier

Thanks again,
Adri
Unless your car is different, the amp is up high in the same compartment where the bluetooth module is located, and it is mounted on its side, around the shoulder area of the back seat. The bluetooth module is mounted at the bottom of the compartment.

By the way, I have Focal speakers installed in all 4 doors, pricey speakers, but they sound great, and fit was no problem at all
 
#57 · (Edited)
Evlengr,
Can you let me know how much mounting depth we have in those front and rear doors please? Alpine SPS-400 is discontinued and SPS-410 is taking too long to show up on crutchfield or local stores. I am trying to find some good 4" ones and mounting depth is holding me up. Don't wanna open the door twice. Please and thank you.

EDIT: If you could let me know the depth of stock speaker then that would work too. I know you had a picture of it with tape measure but I can't find it.
 
#59 ·
The alpine were an 1 13/16 to be exact, but had a small bit of wiggle room I suspect 1 7/8 would work as well. Biggest problem is not only the depth but diameter of magnet. I will have to measure that as well as I think surtech got nailed by that calculation.

The originial kappa series used a custom neodymium magnet which is very small and the newer were the right depth but larger magnet.

Sorry havent been keeping up. Normally I would have upgraded sounds system again since its summer time, but house shopping.

Wife and daughter are being very specific in what they want. Me I just want a nice garage I can put down an epoxy floor and a work area, Lol.
 
#60 ·
@ Surgtech, thank you for your reply. Yes, you are correct, the Bluetooth is there but I have no Amp. Does this mean that all the speakers are run straight from the Source Unit in the Dash? And if so, does this mean that my car is not pre-cabled for an Amp in the trunk?

Also, can you please provide exact details/Model No. of the Focals you have in the 4 doors?

@ Evlengr, I know exactely what you mean with the Garage!:thumbup:

Thanks again,
Adri
 
#64 ·
Also, can you please provide exact details/Model No. of the Focals you have in the 4 doors?
I have the Focal VRS-100 slim speakers. They are not cheap, $600 a pair US, but they do sound great. I left the stock woofers under the seats, and had an amp installed to power them solely, and another amp to power the 4 Focal speakers, and I am very happy with how it sounds.

I can't even begin to imagine what is powering your speakers, having no idea if Australian imported X3's have different stereo configurations, good luck figuring it out.

Chris
 
#62 ·
Wow. You could at least do a little search, no? I've read topics on the best ways to do it: aux in, ice link and dension. I've got the Dension, works great.

Continuing on topic, I'm about to go about my upgrades in a different way than I've seen suggested. I'm adding a nicely amplified sub-box in the trunk and I'm amplifying the all the original speakers. My installer guarantees good results. If I don't like it I'll only pay for the sub-box and he'll sell me some focals at cost price. I'll let you know how it turns out. :thumbup:
 
#66 ·
use the original speaker cables and tap into it from here (see pics)
 

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#67 ·
Hi Evlengr,

And thank you again for all your help.

Unfortunately I do not have the Amp in the Trunk. The only thing in the trunk is the Bluetooth box. The BT plug seems to only have a couple of Yellow and Black twisted pairs (not 4 or 6 as I would expect, 2 Front, 2 Rear and 2 Under Chairs Sub). Here are some pictures for you.

Do I have to assume that the speakers cables are just behind the Stereo in the Dash???

Thanks,
Adri
 

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#68 · (Edited)
Great info Evlengr, have you or anyone else tried installing a 10 inch sub in the driverside rear storage thing (where the main Bluetooth componat is)? I have seen it done once on cardomain but I was not able to get any info on how it was done. I like the system how it is now just looking to get a little more bass without changing much, any ideas?
 
#87 ·
I did an install into this gap area.

Well I paid an installer to put a 10" stealth sub. He kept the same outer plastic housing and cut the rest out and turned it into a protective screen and then built a custom box. I was really impressed with it. Sounds amazing and the single 10" sub is such a great difference. Here is a few photos. The amp is a Rockford and it's beside the battery in the rear. Everything's hidden and appears like stock but sounds amazing.
 

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#69 ·
Hi Quizzle, yes this is at present my intended approach to for the Sub in the trunk. I am planning on building a Sub box similiar to the one shown in this article

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6134178#post6134178

which probably is what you are referring to. If I can place all the Amps in the bottom tray as I intend, I might even try to extend the Sub Box to use the space over the wheel arch, normally used to fit the OEM Amp. This should provide adequate air volume to the Sub.

If I only could plug into the speakers from the trunk as shown in Evlengr pictures!!! :cry:

Adri
 
#71 ·
AMP install

Here is the pic someone had asked on where and how to install amps or additional audio gear (aka amps).

Make sure your back seats are in the fold down position.

When you first pull up the hatch cover where the battery resides you will see three plastic tabs at equi-distant points from left to right. They are circular and pull up easily.

If you look closely at the pic I posted there are three spots that use a conventional nut and bolt attachment.

I don't know the exact size but an adjustable wrench will do in a pinch. Carefully reach forward while propping up the panel and undo.

Then simply pull the panel up and out and voila. A boat load of room that is directly next to the battery. Can't ask for a better connection as they goright to the common ground and positive terminal. What makes this so nice is no motor hum on acceleration and nice clean power then is very constant.

Hope this helps.

EE
 

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#72 ·
After a week with a sub in the trunk and amplified original speakers I'm confident to say: pretty good for the price!! I was going to exchange the speakers before I amplified them in order to spread the costs but I'm now convinced I did better to amplify them 1st! I'll only be replacing the original speakers if they blow, which Evelengr has told me they will...

Sound wise the difference is staggering. There is truly a lot more sound where it was all muddled before and I have a lot more volume to play with. Before amplification I was listening to some stuff on full blast and felt a lot was missing from the music and now I'm listening to it at half or 2/3 and everything is there, although can be a bit harsh on the highest notes. If I do raise the volume to extremes, distortion and clipping will occur, but my ears might bleed too. Half or 2/3 really is as far as I'll want to take it. ;-) The Sub really adds all those bass notes that were severely lacking, without being overpowering. It's really adding to the sound & not being obvious about it's existence.... although when it pumps you really feel it!

So what was done? I have a 5 channel amp in the rear left corner with good thick cables to all 4 speakers + 12" sub in a vented box. Behind the head unit adapters were installed so RCA's could be taken to the amp in the rear. I was told the amp is "running in low gear" and if/ when I replace the original speakers I'll be able to get a lot more juice out of it. I've lost fader capabilities on the head unit (now on amp) as it now allows me to fade out the 4 speakers to only hear the sub...

I'm very very happy with my setup right now! :)
 
#73 ·
Hey all - first post in here!
I'm in Australia & I have an 06 model X3.
I have already replaced the head unit with an Alpine CDA-117E, fitted an RE Audio XT1600.4 amp (100Wrms X 4) and a 10" Rainbow Hammer in a sealed enclosure. My front stage is still running from the Alpine head unit.
The Aussie X3's did not get the premium sound package the American's get.
I did not get an amp in the car with the stock audio and have Phillips 4" paper coned mid's in the doors without tweeters! It is just horrible!
I am in the process of upgrading the front stage.
I'm typically on a tight budget & can either:
1. Fit some quality 4" coaxials (Morel/ AD's) in the front doors to replace the horrible Phillips mid, power them from the amp & be done with it.
2. Buy a quality 2 way split system but with a 3 way crossover instead - to run the stock under seat woofer
3. Buy a 2 way split system with a 2 way X-over and run the under seat woofers active from the high passed rear channels of my 4 channel amp (via 'Y' splitter RCA's). I'll need to get an additional mono amp for the sub.
4. Try find a 3 way system from overseas that fits in the budget
A few questions if you guys will be so kind to answer?
*Might you know the ohm rating of the stock under-seat woofers?
*Did you run new cables through the door grommets to the door mid & tweeter? I have a hunch that there are capacitors in-line somewhere for the mid & the woofer...

Any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated - as I can't find any guys in Oz who know much about the X3's!

Cheers

Daz.
 
#74 · (Edited)
Although I have covered this "ad nauseum" here we go again.

First as the original post says. Change the speaker. Agreed the originals are completely garbage and are worse than entry level Ford vehicles. The Alpine sps-400 fits perfectly, Boston Acoustic S45, and some of the Infinity Kappa reference series.

Buy an interface module like this: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_6359_AudioControl-LC6i-Gray-LC6.html

You can keep the mid subs under the seat and just add power and tune the xover.

Add a low profile 10" sub in a closed cabinet.

The subs under the seats are 2 ohm.

Here's where I would start.

Speakers first, then see what you think. If not enough then continue with processor and amps, and finally 10" sub.

Pm me for more details.
 
#77 ·
Hi Evlengr,

Thanks for the response, but did you read my entire post?!
I'm not really wanting to settle for a basic speaker upgrade with rubbish Alpine coaxials! I would've left the standard head unit in - if I just wanted that!
I don't want a LOC, as I have already fitted an Alpine CDA-117E.
I also have an RE Audio XT1600.4 amp - already installed!
I don't want a low profile 10" sub, as I already have a high quality Rainbow Hammer in a 0.5 cu ft sealed enclosure - with a tuning close to the ideal Q of 0.7.
I'm aware I can keep the under-seat woofers, I am after advice on how people have integrated/ wired them with a 2 way split speaker upgrade up front.
Also curious how difficult it is to run new cables into the front doors!?:thumbup:

Daz.
 
#78 ·
First off, no need to run new cables into the doors. All the talk of zero oxygen cables and such is rubbish. And unless you plan on running cables 50 ft or more there is no benefit offered running expensive cable as the resistive load change is barely measurable at .001.

If you are looking for some real high grade speakers get the low profile MB Quartz or Focals.

Actually run a 3 way xover, but most people have no idea what I am talking about when I go there.

I ran:

20-180 Hz on sub my sub is set for .74 cu/f closed
200- 800 HZ on mid sub
800-20kHz on full range

The real pain was running a proper cable from H/U to the back. I used twisted pair on everything to avoid inductive coupling and everything is grounded to a 1 inch copper strap in back to avoid motor humm (there is none).

That help?
 
#79 · (Edited)
Some help, thanks!
Is both the 4" midrange and 8" under-seat woofer a 100% fullrange or is there an in-line capacitors to filter some frequencies?
I somehow doubt that BMW would have a full range frequency going to the 4" door mids?!
If there is a cap of some sort on the 4" mid's wiring, running a pre-filtered signal to the 2 way split's input would create a serious compromise to their performance!
p.s. The underseat woofers are 4 ohm - not 2 ohm.
 
#80 · (Edited)
Weird, mine are 2 ohms I measured them in the shop and even says 2 ohms on them. Maybe a different set up because of EU?

I essentially by passed all things BMW except the speaker wires. I measured them with a fluke meter that gave both resistance and length. I then took a high end monster cable of equal length and measure resistive load. No difference.

The xover I used was home brew to give control on band pass. I took a xover from an old threeway speaker and put potentiometers to give adjustment control.

Some great news though. Focal has finally put out a nice set of 4" 100 mm that should fit based on depth and other measurements. The two I checked out ran $180 and $250 US dollars. Think I may go for a set and see how they work out.

I'll let you know. It will probably be about two weeks before Install them.
 
#81 ·
I'm thinking we do have country specific components!
Your small gague speaker cable will show little resistance with no load on it.
Put 100Wrms through it & it will fail dismally - compared to the larger gague Monster Cable.
I have just bought some Hertz Energy components (ET20 tweeters & EM100 mid's) along with a custom made crossover.
I'll put up some install pic's when they arrive.
 
#82 ·
Should have been more specific. That was tested with a 1kHZ from a frequency counter at 30 watts.

Chances are I will never see anything above 50 watts so no point in the added work.
 
#84 ·
Not familiar with the items you mentioned.

Always interested in new toys. Can you link them?

And if you plan on running that hot and have the time, sure why not upgrade the wiring :thumbup:
 
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