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First time buyer of 325i - going to work on it.

12K views 154 replies 16 participants last post by  dwonda 
#1 ·
Hi Guys I am just going to get next week BMW 325i, manual, black, sedan 370 km on it.
It has some issues like small spots of rust, wiper is not working, driver leather seat is ripped off, handle (on top of stick) is broken, bumper bottom gril is broken, battery is weak etc.
I will put issues one by one here with pictures and will try to DIY to fix it with the help and guidance of you guys.

Thanks.
 
#83 ·
I vote for Jared making a video demonstrating how to drive onto jack stands..... :rofl:

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#85 ·
Looks like the motion has been seconded.

Jared, we'll give you 2 weeks timeframe to complete the assignment. Please report back with your progress in one week.

:rofl:

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#86 ·
Challenge Accepted...


I need new tires on the X5, anyway.
 
#88 ·
Parlez-vous Quebecois?
 
#92 ·
Due to very cold weather : I postpone the project for one month but doing a lit bit work slowly:
Question:
How to use bmw car jack? Mine is similar on picture right hand side. The supporting rod is already down how it can lift the car?

I am trying to use the bmw car jack. See the pictures and please note that these are from internet not my car. But I want to do same thing which one guy did that put car jack and then underneath put car stands but my jack is same as right hand side.. looks if I should put top on ground and bottom part to upper side because rod is benting downward. How can rod supposrt the car if I keep the bottom part of jack on ground?
Can anybody give me pic or video how to use bmw car jack?
 

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#93 ·
:rofl: Seriously?

CHOCK THE WHEELS and SET THE E-BRAKE. If you don't, the car WILL move when you jack it up. Take the big circular plug out of the side of your car where you want to jack it up. A flat blade screwdriver will do it. lefty-loosey (counterclockwise to remove it).

I could insert something about "talk dirty to the jack until the peg is standing straight out", but I'll refrain. :yikes:

Grab the peg and pull it up until it's at 90 degrees to the jack. Put it in the hole the plug came out of until it bottoms. Turn the jack handle until the foot of the jack contacts the ground. Continue turning until the car is as high as you want it. Put the jack stand under the hard point (reinforced spot under the car directly under the socket for the OEM jack). Let the car down onto the jack stand.

Reverse the process to get it back on the ground, and for God sake, don't get under the car with that deathtrap of an OEM jack being the only thing holding it up!

Edit: i just re-read that, and no matter how you describe it, it sounds dirty....or maybe it's just my dirty old man mind. :bustingup
 
#94 ·
:rofl: Seriously?

CHOCK THE WHEELS and SET THE E-BRAKE. If you don't, the car WILL move when you jack it up. Take the big cir...... an OEM jack being the only thing holding it up!

Edit: i just re-read that, and no matter how you describe it, it sounds dirty....or maybe it's just my dirty old man mind. :bustingup
my mistake; I made question confusing. :)
I know these basic steps.. I was just wondering that if I can push the jack stick down by hand easily then how it can hold the car up? When can weight will push it down it will come down easily?
There should be some lock or it is in wrong direction?
But I will try tomorrow as today we got lot of snow here...
 

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#96 · (Edited)
Trust us, if you put the jack into the hole as it is designed to do, the part you are referring to will not swing down. It isn't magic. If you're having a hard time figuring out why it doesn't fold down when you raise the car, just think about how it's situated in there a little harder. You'll understand it eventually.

And just to reiterate what others have already said:

DO NOT GET UNDERNEATH THE CAR UNTIL IT HAS BEEN SAFELY LOWERED ONTO JACK STANDS. I had my OEM jack buckle as I was tightening a lug bolt.
 
#97 ·
Or just use it. Your understanding of it is not required to use it.
 
#98 ·
i just dont think that he has opened the ports to put the jack in there guys dont be too mad yet.


It took me a while to understand the OEM jack at first too..... never understood it till i used it.


These intrustions again just in case.

1)go to car
2)look for the caps on the rocker panels
3) remove the caps.
4)place chocks on wheels
5)put OEM jack into the hole that will appear after step 3
6) jack the car up
7) put a jackstand right under where your jacking (as seen in your picture)
8) lower the car onto jackstand**
9) Shake test? lean against the car. "move it" (i do this with all 4 wheels still on the car to make sure when im wrenching that im set on the jack)
10) do your work you need to do..


**if you dont own a jackstand and your thinking about doing work on your car like brakes or something just put your wheel that your taking off under the car or something. just please dont get under it with just the OEM jack. i dont want to see anyone get hurt.


Hope i helped.
 
#99 ·
i just dont think that he has opened the ports to put the jack in there guys dont be too mad yet.

It took me a while to understand the OEM jack at first too..... never understood it till i used it.

These intrustions again just in case.

1)go to car
2)look for the caps on the rocker panels
3) remove the caps.
4)place chocks on wheels
5)put OEM jack into the hole that will appear after step 3
6) jack the car up
7) put a jackstand right under where your jacking (as seen in your picture)
8) lower the car onto jackstand**
9) Shake test? lean against the car. "move it" (i do this with all 4 wheels still on the car to make sure when im wrenching that im set on the jack)
10) do your work you need to do..

**if you dont own a jackstand and your thinking about doing work on your car like brakes or something just put your wheel that your taking off under the car or something. just please dont get under it with just the OEM jack. i dont want to see anyone get hurt.

Hope i helped.
I think I need a stick figure drawing with some random phallic symbols and boobs.
 
#106 ·
Yes, I've got those same stands.

Franklyn, just saw your epicness of MS Paint.


Dude, my esteem for you just rose. :)
 
#111 ·
Brake line leask and master cylender issue

Due to personal issues I could not continue my project but now I decided to start it again. The RPM up/down issue is solved as it was rusted so after cleaing, WD 40 and lubication it is working. Now I toed the car to mechanic for break line. He told me not to fix the car as he was saying it would take at least $1000 to fix it (front breaks and bushings and sealings; He said looks transmission is also leaking. Any way after some thought I decided to fix it.

Now the main issue is break line leak but now mechanic is saying that pressure is not building. I saw a huge break leak from rear left wheel; now he says no leak but no pressure. He says looks like master cylinder is gone. some body also told me that if break line leaks and it is not fixed in time..its master cylinder is gone. Is it true?
How can I verify that master cylinder is ok or not? can it be repaired? Can I put used one? And should I fix the line first and then master cilnder or first cylinder and then break line.
The mechanic will do but I have to guide him or at least I want to know first.

Thanks guys..
 
#112 ·
Is there NO OTHER mechanic around there!??? That guy sounds like an idiot....or worse yet, an outright crook. I'm serious....get your car to someone that actually knows what they're doing. $1000 for front brakes (note spelling, please), bushings and seals? That's preposterous.
 
#113 ·
I will ask him in details on Tuesday as here is long weekend; but tell me two things;

1) Is it true that if break line is leak and we press the brakes many times then master cylinder is gone? can it be repair?

2) How much cost should be roughly to fix the leak brake line of rear left wheel and master and slave cylinder.

Actually I need safety to get the plates; once I got plate then I can take it to one mechanic (Charlie )
 
#114 · (Edited)
I asked him to check again and just fix the *break [Edit: typo error; *break=brake] line. After break line leak fix, now breaks are ok.
Now I will start the project.
1) First I want to clean (detail the car from outside/inside) so I will clean/polish dashboard, seats and carpet. I have steamer so will use it for carpets.
2) I want to do following tasks, please i request to you guys to see if I am missing some basic should do task to restore the car.

1. Flush the oil and change the oil
2. Change the spark plugs and wires
3. Flush the radiator water.
4. There are some small body rust spots which I need to fix.
5. Bottom skirt need to be painted.
6. I want to paint grill to black.
7. Restore the head-lights
8. Either make angle eys to light or put yellow tinted paper on it.
9. Fix the bumper and put fog lights.

There is rust and oil at the bottom of the car, what is good way to clean it. Should I use engine degrees-er and WD-40 or something else.

Also stick knob is broken and seems its bushing need to be replaced. I will do that too.
So these are basic parts which I think I must need to do before to test the car. Also it has snow tires on steel rims, I am looking for some alloy rims with tire. I want black, so should I buy used one and paint my self? Can I do that?
Edit: Also the car has missing radio so I need to install a Sony mp3 to it.
 
#115 ·
Did he fix or break the line? :dunno:
 
#118 ·
Rims, spark-plug and wires

Rims:
I need to change the Rims and tires as currently I have snow tire on steel-rims.
Is that possible to get used rims for $100? Also which year rims are compatible for my 95 325i ? Can I put 5-series rims also? Also I would like to paint the rims black if possible? Any tip and guidance for that.

Spark-plug and wire:
I think spark-plug info is in sticky posts. I am wondering if is it good idea to change the spark-plug wires too? If yes then any specific wires or should I get it from dealer?

Regards,
KM
 
#119 ·
I am trying to clean my car from inside/outside. I found it has lot of small scratches all over the body; not sure how it did .. may be auto car wash. (it is before I got it and as car was dirty so I could not notice. )

I want to fix them ..first as quickly and which scratches will not remove then I will touch up and then fix it. I got the link in stickie posts about detailing.

Can anyone suggest me some good polish or compound or wax (I am not fully aware of diffirence between them) to remove small scratches like key scratches.. type etc. )
I have black 325i. 95 year.
Also look the pic, I have this kind of polisher.. is that good enough or I should buy some other?

Regards.
K.
 

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#120 ·
That buffer should work fine. For heavy scratches and severely weathered paint you'd probably be better off with a rotary buffer than a random orbital. I used Meguiars Ultimate compound on the 84 633, but only after color sanding it, since the paint was simply awful. It was the texture of a chalk board.

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#123 ·
That buffer should work fine. For heavy scratches and severely weathered paint you'd probably be better off with a rotary buffer than a random orbital. I used Meguiars Ultimate compound on the 84 633, but only after color sanding it, since the paint was simply awful. It was the texture of a chalk board.

Sent from my MB860 using BimmerApp mobile app
The paint is bad condition. I think previous owner used to park under some tree.
Is there any good rotary buffer with reason able price (like under $80)?
 
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