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3.0 engine ran w/o oil cap - need help!

3K views 15 replies 10 participants last post by  catso 
#1 ·
I take the heat for this one - I didn't secure the oil cap after adding oil. Ran fine for 3 starts (including 60 miles) but after sitting overnight in single digits it barely started, blew a ton of exhaust and quit. I was able to start in again once (with the cap on); it could barely idle, made a ton of unhappy noises. It did smooth out when given some throttle, but then died.

The vehicle is a 06 X5 with the 3.0 liter engine, I suspect there are a whole lot more gear heads on this forum for this engine than the X5 forum (that is meant to be a compliment!). Where should I go from here?
 
#2 ·
Dang that sucks, sorry to hear.

Did it restart after it died or have you not tried?

I guess in your place I'd check for oil level, button it up and give it a try. If no joy, I'd trailer it to a good indy mechanic. Might try www.bimrs.org.

Good luck.
 
#4 ·
Not sure what 'adaptations' mean. I have a pc based program that reads a bunch of values including codes and resets (haven't been out there yet this morning, waiting for it to get to at least 10 degrees). I'll check for error messages and let you know. Please let me know what adaptations means,
 
#5 ·
Adaptations are how the engine computer learns the particular behavior of the engine and uses that information to "tune" the engine. For instance, the BMW engineers know that for a certain amount of air flowing into the engine, it will require a certain amount of fuel. But each engine and each MAF sensor is different, so the whole system of engine, sensors, fuel injectors etc. has to be calibrated to work correctly with one another.
By leaving the oil cap off, you introduced a lot of "false air" into the engine and it disrupted the adaptation values stored in the ECU. By erasing the error codes in the ECU, you will re-set the adaptation values back to the factory defaults. After driving for a while, the adaptations will eventually return to where they were prior to this mishap.
 
#9 ·
follow up

Well, it turned out to be more involved than resets. The lack of oil cap was potentially contributing. The combination of the oil separator/PVC system not being updated, many short (less than 3 miles) trips and a morning temp in the low single digits caused a hydro-lock condition.

About a month ago I noticed some gunk around the oil cap and on the dipstick. I learned about the update (SI B 11 08 03) to address this. I didn't search any farther - to my detriment.

First estimate was $1,300.00 (install update, change spark plugs and oil, and some clean out something or other). This was done and it ran rough. Further investigation revealed - get this - a hole in the intake manifold. Never heard of such a thing. Not sure of the additional cost.

I would like some feedback on this one.
 
#12 · (Edited)
Further investigation revealed - get this - a hole in the intake manifold. Never heard of such a thing. Not sure of the additional cost.

I would like some feedback on this one.
1) Unless your dealer has a good rep or you have a good rep with your dealer, I would not assume that you are getting quality service advice from the dealer service department, especially considering their labor rates. I would strongly suggest seeking a second opinion from an indy with a good rep. That CCV system update should've cost you nearly half of what you paid at the dealer.

2) Re: Intake manifold - while not impossible, I would be very suspect of this diagnosis. I can easily see a "hole" in the intake bellows (~3" diameter rubber hose that supplies air from the filter to the throttle body) as being a likely culprit and/or a "hole" in the valve cover/valve cover gasket as being likely but a hole in the intake manifold? - I call BS. One of the methods of replacing the CCV system involves removing the intake manifold so if there is a "hole" in the manifold, they likely caused it. Most mechanics choose to scrape knuckles/use colorful language to replace the CCV system without removing the manifold.

3) Ask them to clarify where the "hole" is and how it was diagnosed. If they're calling it based on a SES code only (e.g. bank 1&2 lean condition), that is not good enough. The only real diagnosis is a visual inspection of the entire intake system with or without a smoke test.

4) Reread 1) above and seek the advice of a trusted indy if you think your getting hosed by the stealer.
 
#13 ·
follow up

Thanks for all comments.

I do have a good relationship with the dealer, as well as a good independent (who worked at the dealer for 10+ years. He left because he lives 40 miles away, which also makes it tough to use him for unscheduled repairs).

I asked for and received the damaged intake manifold. A 'hole' is a poor description. What happened is it cracked along a molded seam. Visible to the eye, it was diagnosed by a smoke test.

Regarding pricing; yes, expensive. Reviewing my invoice shows the parts for the pvc diagnose @ around $325 and 5.5 hours of labor including vacuuming oil out of several cylinders. Add change spark plugs and labor as well as an oil change.

The intake was $650 and labor two hours, down from the shop manual of 3.5 because of the duplication with the PVC service.

Runs like a charm.
 
#15 ·
Yes they do!, but the alternative is weight and additional cost. It is also going to get worse. The Gubbmint, in its quest to raise mileage, if forcing manufacturers to use parts that are barely engineered to meet the requirement necessary. This means more breakdowns, and more expensive repairs. They will be making cars on 3D printers soon.
 
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