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E63/64 DIY: BMW 2005 645Ci / E63 / Crank Case Vent Valves CCV

66K views 34 replies 20 participants last post by  terrapinsmdb 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Parts Needed:
BMW part # 11127547058 (if replacing both sides you will need two) $22.28 dealer price not after market
This is a Repair kit, pressure regulating valve

Tools Needed:
Torx (I used a Hex 6/32 since I did not have one)
Flat head screwdriver (thinnest one you have we work best)

Steps:
1. Picture 1 - Remove Engine cover. Unscrew 4 torx (4 red arrows).
2. Picture 2 - Pop off side Engine covers. Note, these covers will need to be pulled outward and are held by two plug like screws (refer to picture 3 blue arrows right side and picture 4 left side CCV). Pop bottom first and move your hand to pull off the other. Slide the covers down as getting them out could take some time. Driver side with blue arrow is a little tricky as a hose is in the way.
3. Picture 5 (Picture 3 - Ride side CCV & Picture 4 - Left side CCV) - Release 4 of 6 clips/tabs and slowly pull upwards in a sliding downward motion to free the last two clips/tabs. IMPORTANT, if your CCV kit does not have the vacuum hose attachment be very carful in removing the tabs as you will need to re use the cap. Refer to picture 6.
4. Remove damaged/old rubber and spring. Replace with new spring (picture 7) and rubber.
5. Place Cap back on and firmly press down on each tab making sure they fasten. You should hear 6 clicks one for each tab.
6. Repeat steps 3-5 for other CCV
7. Replace both side engine covers
8. Replace top engine cover and screw back 4 torx screws
9. You successfully changed your CCV

Pic 1


Pic 2


Pic 3


Pic 4


Pic 5


Pic 6


Pic 7


GOOD LUCK!!!
 
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#3 ·
Great Procedure

This DIY is fantastic! I had a very annoying loud whistling sound on my 05 645, and discovered that when I loosened the oil cap, which allowed air to enter the engine, the sound changed. I stumbled on this thread, did the rebuild on the CCV valves, and the noise is GONE! I am still getting the "increased emissions" service message, however, and was wondering about how to clear that. Do I have to have it reset, or will it clear itself with driving? I took it on a 40 mile freeway drive to see if that would help, but I still have the "service engine soon" lit up on the dash. I need to get the car smogged (CA) and it will fail immediately with the light on.
Any advice? Thank you!!
 
#5 ·
This DIY is fantastic! I had a very annoying loud whistling sound on my 05 645, and discovered that when I loosened the oil cap, which allowed air to enter the engine, the sound changed. I stumbled on this thread, did the rebuild on the CCV valves, and the noise is GONE! I am still getting the "increased emissions" service message, however, and was wondering about how to clear that. Do I have to have it reset, or will it clear itself with driving? I took it on a 40 mile freeway drive to see if that would help, but I still have the "service engine soon" lit up on the dash. I need to get the car smogged (CA) and it will fail immediately with the light on.
Any advice? Thank you!!
Were you able to get the code cleared or did it go away by itself? also, did the check engine light come back?

Thanks,

- Amar
 
#4 ·
Kdemers,
The light will not reset it's self. You will need to reset the warring. Autozoon sells thurs for 29.99 or higher. Once u reset/delete the code go take/do your smog check. You will have about 29 miles before the light goes back on if the repair kit did not fix the original issue. You might also want to note the errors whiched fire in case you need to fix other parts/areas.
 
#6 ·
the code cleared itself for about 100 Miles, luckily I got it smogged right away. It's back on now, and I am going to have to take it in at this point. Sigh.
 

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#7 · (Edited)
Before you take it in, I would recommend you check the code to be sure it's the same codes (P2187 and P2189). also, check your vacuum lines. I have replaced my both my ccv's (the one in Bank 1 was cut all the way around and the rubber diaphragm was completely severed. I replaced both ccv's and used my cheap $35 code reader to reset the codes. I have driven the car for almost 200 miles and so far all clear. So I'm pretty confident at this point the issue was the damaged diaphragm. Today, we took the engine covers off and give a it good inspection and ensured all the visible vacuum lines are secure. we also took the opportunity to clean as much as we could using WD40 and left a lot of WD40 on the hoses and electrical connectors to help keep them from drying out.
 
#8 ·
I will check all that out, and thank you very much for the advice. The service engine soon light, and corresponding "increased emissions" warning come and go randomly.
 
#9 ·
Hello i have a trick that worked for me, i have the 545i so we have the same engine, i had ses light on and increased emisions message so i couldent pass inspection, as soon i was deleting the error i was driving for 5 miles and it comes back on , i delete it again and acidently put the car in sport modus( tilt the shifter to the left for manual shifting) and the error never came out in sport modus becose of the high rpm , i drived like that for 150 miles and passed my inspection , but as soon i drive regular in D the check engine light came right out. So this helped me , a try will not harm , good luck
 
#12 ·
If I had an Increases Emissions message and there were no codes I would change the CCV valves as a first step. They are low cost and very easy to replace. They are also a wear item and will eventually fail so it's not a bad idea to change them even if they don't fix the Increases Emissions message.

Do a search for "increased emissions" , there are many threads with lists of possible causes.
 
#15 ·
From the DIY above:
>> IMPORTANT, if your CCV kit does not have the vacuum hose attachment be very carful in removing the tabs as you will need to re use the cap. Refer to picture 6.

I believe that extra vacuum line goes to the fuel pressure regulator. On newer cars this line has been eliminated but you need to attach it to the CCV if your car has that extra line.
 
#17 ·
New to this site and only posting my 2nd thread, can I ask what was it that drove you to changing your CCV valves? I cannot find in this thread why yours needed replacing.

I have a 645 that blows blue smoke after standing idle for any length of time and have read it could be CCV Valves. I'm praying this is the solution as the alternative fault (valve stem oil seals) is highly expensive.

Kind regards

Harry
 
#19 ·
645 ccv valves

Hulked,

Thank you for getting back to me. I decided to trade the old girl in for a newer 320d. I miss her but I can't help smiling each time I look at the trip computer on the new one and it shows 675 miles to your next visit to the filling station! :):thumbup::):thumbup::):thumbup:

I really appreciate you tok the time to reply and hope you enjoy your 6 as much as I enjoyed mine.

Ps. I only decided to get the 320d after reading so many rave reviews on here about them. I almost went for the 330d but traffic in the UK and speed cameras around every corner have taken all the fun out of going anywhere in your car so took the sensible option.

Regards

Harry
 
#20 · (Edited)
Thank you!!!!!!!

I have had this engine light/"increased emission" for the last 7 months. The shop I work with has changed valves, seals and valve covers all over the friggin place totalling about 6g's. Because I have an after market warranty I didn't pay too much attention.

But then the car started stalling and shaking. This time they told me it was the vaccum lines. I let them go at it and again...stalling and emission light.

Then I decided enough was enough.... After reading through this forum I came to understand there was a diagnostic wire specifically targeted or geared towards BMW vehicles. I purchased the Bavarian Technic diagnostics wire and downloaded the software. I found the error messages as listed above which lead me to this thread. I have purchased the ccv pressure valve kit x2 I figure I'll do both sides while I'm at it. There was a slice or hole in the diaphragm. Let's hope this is it, but I'm confident this is or was the issue. Thanks again.

Symptoms again:
Shake at stop.
Stall after warmed up and idling or reverse (low rpms)
Increased emissions light
Engine light
Large cloud of blue smoke on long idle 3-5 min
Spontaneous bouncing rpms at low idle

If at any time I reset/clear the fault all problems were resolved for about 100km

Cheers.
 
#21 ·
Thanks for the write up bigtyme562. I've changed mine today and tomorrow I'll see if the rough idling disappears. Strangely, the driver side orange rubber was new-looking and the passenger side all old and stiff. I went ahead and replaced them both, since I bought 2. So now I have one almost brand-new to give away..
 
#23 ·
bigtyme562, This was a great DIY and very helpful on my 545i. I actually found this thread from a google search on this issue and just followed your lead. This made it super easy to do.

I added a thread in the E60 section and actually put in a link to your DIY so the 5 series guys can get some love too. :thumbup:

JP
 
#25 ·
I changed my CCVs in my '06 E63 650, hoping that the smoking after idle will go away. It did not fix the smoke issue, but it did improve the idling and the car seems to run better. Thanks for the DIY write-up. If y'all have any other suggestion for the smoke issue? I am afraid that the valve seals are the culprit, as BMW suggested.
 
#26 · (Edited)
feszty, There's a few other things to try that have worked for others.

Try a Seafoam treatment to clean the intake. Get the spray can that comes with a curved spray hose that directs the Seafoam into the throttle body. It's very effective at cleaning out the buildup in the air intake as well as the carbon buildup on top of the pistons. Both of these issues cause smoking problems.
You can also try the two fixes mentioned in a thread on 5series dot net. I'm not sure if I can cross link a thread to another forum here but go to 5series dot net and search for a thread titled '545i Dual Catch Can setup with pics' started by AllBlackBMW. He used a dual catch can setup to trap the excess oil that otherwise would have made it into the intake. It cured his smoking problem. Also take a look at the fix posted in the same thread by A B Able Truck. He cured his smoking issue with his fix.

I fixed my CCV diaphragms and while one was torn almost all the way around the outer diameter, I didn't have any smoking problems. I used the new caps without air nibs, pulled out the air tubes and blocked off the air nib on the main air intake tube going into the throttle body. I bought a can of Seafoam but haven't used it yet. My intake wasn't that bad but I do want to give it a good cleaning. As preventive maintenance I also use a bottle of Techron at every 3-4 fillups to keep things clean.

Hope this helps.

JP
 
#28 ·
I definitely have a gremlin that's taxing my brain. To date - CCVs and TB gaskets replaced; vacuum hoses from CCV to MAF replaced and the darn increased emissions warning still lights. I picked up a Technic cable/software and it reports a 27D5 Idle-speed control faulty message. Does the e64 have a ICV and where is it located? I thought the CCV replaced the ICV. Car drives fine except for minor cold idle fluctuations. I'm worried that I won't be in a position to pass my emissions test this year. Thanks. Stephen,
 
#29 ·
DIY: BMW 2005 645Ci / E63 / Crank Case Vent Valves CCV

Worth checking out the engine suspension. I replaced the Valves and thermo but the rough idle persisted. Turned out to be one of the engine support arms had snapped. It was replaced with the rest of the front suspension and the rough isle is no more.

Sent from BimmerApp mobile app
 
#30 ·
Some clarification on old Caps with hoses and new without. You do not need to reuse the old caps and keep the hoses. Disconnect the hoses from the old caps and the intake pipe. Cap off the connection to the intake with a vacuum cap that has an inside diameter of 5/32. The original hose has a 3/16 inside diameter, but the 5/32 vacuum cap fits with a nice tight fit.
 
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