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Keeping Your 3 Series Origami Top in Tip Top Shape

743K views 564 replies 155 participants last post by  guaporas 
#1 · (Edited)
A special thanks to fun2drive for his huge contribution :thumbup::thumbup:

Okay folks, you asked for it, here it is. In response to everyone who has asked for a Sticky on how to maintain the seals and keep the moving parts of the convertible hardtop lubricated, fun2drive and I have put our heads together and assembled a DIY. Much of this is based on experience, but we have also tried to get as much input as possible from dealership service techs and the photo documentation included is the direct result of my E93 having just been in for a full dealership hardtop lubrication and adjustment.
We welcome contributions of tips and tricks picked up along the way. As always, comments and questions are great. The intent is to have a one-stop resource for people looking for information on keeping the folding hardtop well maintained and problem free.

Probably one of the greatest concerns of any E93 owner is how to keep their folding hardtop free of creaks, squeaks, wind noise and heaven forbid water leaks. If you own one, you are at least marginally aware that there are literally hundreds of parts in the form of seals, hinges, locks, hydraulics, and microswitches that must all work in perfect harmony to deliver the 22 seconds to nirvana top down experience. So, how to keep things running smoothly:

• Keep the rubber seals lubricated and moisturized.
• Secondly, but equally important is to keep the moving joints well lubricated and dust free.
• Listen to your top. For those who acquired their E93s new, think back to what the top sounded like when the car was brand new. If you acquired your car second hand, go to your local dealership and ask them if you can observe (that is listen) to the top of a brand new E93. It should be silky smooth with no squeaks, no jolts and no stickiness.
So, here are some tips and tricks to keeping your top in great shape.

Seal Lubrication:
There are two products routinely discussed when this topic comes up.

Gummi Pflege (which in German, literally translates to "Rubber Care") made by Einzett.

http://www.amazon.com/einszett-914806-Gummi-Pflege-Rubber/dp/B004B8GTQG

Krytox - specifically the GPL205 Grease made by Dupont. This is expensive stuff, but well worth every penny.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=Krytox+gpl205



A couple of words about products to use on rubber seals: Silicon is a natural enemy of rubber. It makes rubber swell and fracture. Whether your tires or your door seals - do your car a favor, spend the few extra dollars to get good products.

Rubber Seal Lubrication:

The rubber seals on your top are very similar to your skin. They need moisture and protection or they will dry out and eventually crack. At the very least they will shrink with dehydration, or prematurely break down due to UV damage.

Gummi Pflege: The applicator is a little bulky. I found the on board applicator to be overkill for the narrow strips of rubber that make up the E93 lateral top seals (those rubber seals running from driver to passenger side).
As an alternative, I use "foam lollipops" available from either Autogeek or Detailed Image. I moisten the lollipop with the Gummi Pflege then run it along the length of the seal including the grooved area. I follow with a microfiber wrapped sponge to help spread the Gummi evenly and mop up any puddles.

Krytox:
This is best applied using your fingers and a little really does go along way. The best description I can use here is watch your wife or girlfriend the next time she applies lip balm or lip gloss. She will take a little tiny bit on the tip of her finger and smooth it all the way over her lips. Same thing applies here. It takes just a little bit to be smoothed the length of the seal.
You need to keep going over the area until you have a uniform thin coating over the entire seal area.
If you live in a cold area of the country and are trying to do this at temperatures below 60F, take a terry face cloth and get it wet with hot water. Wring it out then wrap it around the syringe applicator and let it sit for a few minutes. This will gently warm the Krytox and make it easier to apply. Alternatively, if it is in the tube, let it sit in a coffee mug of hot water for a few minutes to SOFTEN it.
DON'T stick it in the microwave. If you liquefy it, you may alter its properties.

So now that you know what to use and how to apply it, where does it go? For the seals that is pretty easy. If it's black and rubbery (soft and slightly squishy) and it's on either the front or rear edge of one of the top panels or it is between the front and rear passenger windows it is fair game. Pictures do a far better job of explaining it so here they are. Don't forget to use a little Krytox along the area where the side view mirrors mate with the A pillar.

















A quick word about the tensioning cords. While these are not something that can be lubricated or treated per se, it is of value to inspect them for wear. It seems that around MY 2011, the cords were upgraded to a more robust version as earlier cars exhibited fraying of these cords. My 2009 had the cords replaced under warranty in August 2011.
This is what the frayed cords look like and the points where they are the most visible.









The replaced cords are not as silky looking and are holding up much better.



Now for the hinges, locks, pins and slides: fun2drive is going to explain about lubricants and application techniques. We had a fortuitous photo -op in that my E93's top had developed a nasty little squeak and a bit of a catch or sticky spot when being returned to closed from the stowed (top open) position. It went to the dealership for a full lubrication. The photos were taken the day after the service visit, so we have a pretty clear understanding of the lube points as specified by BMW.
 
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#76 ·
Submariner,

Thanks for the tip and I will bring this print out with me today and perhaps they can follow the instruction to fic the problem.
 
#77 ·
Got the car back today and dealer did not perform any adjustment to the top, all they did was applied the Wurth silicone gel stick on rubbers and that seems to resolve the squeaky noise, anyone out there have had experience with this brand Wurth from Germany? I did a search online and most stores will not ship them to California.
 
#78 · (Edited)
Well, thats a tad disappointing. I believe that the lube to the seals is just a temporary solution to the problem :( I use Gummy Pledge and that stops the squeaks and rattles for a few days at most - then its ba-ack!

I was hoping for a mechanical solution to the problem. I will let you know when I get my car back. I was hoping to hand it in this Saturday but they don't receive cars on the weekends except for oil changes - so its Monday.

PS you can order the Wurth Gel from autopia http://www.autopia-carcare.com/w-8930128.html I just ordered shipped to NJ. Use coupon code aucoupon for 15% off

UPDATE: arg! Autopia canceled my order - cant ship it to NJ. Will ship it to a friend in PA instead...
 
#79 · (Edited)
Well today my E93 was in for a rattling noise detected on the front drivers side where the hardtop meets the windscreen roof. Previously I tried gummy pledge and lubricated generously in that area. It helped somewhat but the rattle would return after a few days driving me crazy. I do seem to recall that the rattling started soon after I drove over one of New York City's finest potholes that jarred my teeth filings...which made me believe that it wasn't lubricant that would fix it but rather something 'came loose' or was jolted out of place. Anyway that was my theory.

I dropped off my car yesterday and I enclosed a printout of what I found on the net regarding this problem (see my prior post which has the link).

The tech guy took the car for a drive and detected the rattle immediately (thank god). He initiated a work order for Bulletin SIB 54 12 07. He placed some spacers or washers as per bulletin. He drove it again and the noise was reduced but not completely gone. He installed another spacer and the noise was completely gone this time (thank god for his attention to detail!)

Noise free yay!

Nevertheless I have placed an order for the Whurl rubber gel which I will use for lubricating...
Let's see how it progresses in the coming weeks. Anyway, just thought I would share :)
 
#80 ·
Kat and fun2drive,

So I had a top that was intermittently stopping in the middle of the cycle, but only once or twice a year and only if the top hadn/t been used for a long time ie. winter. The last month it got more and more problematic. Finally two weeks ago in the up position it would disconnect all the sections and would not stack. Before that I had read this sticky on lubrication and followed it hopeing that was the problem, no dice. Mine is an 2007 with 25K miles and maybe 40-50 total retracts.

So took it to Seattle BMW and ithe problem ended up being the relay that controls the power to the hydralic pump. That explains the symtoms, with relay contacts slowly burning out. It was 4 hours of labor to take the trunk apart to get at the relays. They were real nice and only charged me for 3 hours and I walked out only $500 poorer. Hopefully this is not a sign of things to come.

Boeing Engineer(eastside328):cry:
 
#81 ·
Kat and fun2drive,

So I had a top that was intermittently stopping in the middle of the cycle, but only once or twice a year and only if the top hadn/t been used for a long time ie. winter. The last month it got more and more problematic. Finally two weeks ago in the up position it would disconnect all the sections and would not stack. Before that I had read this sticky on lubrication and followed it hopeing that was the problem, no dice. Mine is an 2007 with 25K miles and maybe 40-50 total retracts.

So took it to Seattle BMW and ithe problem ended up being the relay that controls the power to the hydralic pump. That explains the symtoms, with relay contacts slowly burning out. It was 4 hours of labor to take the trunk apart to get at the relays. They were real nice and only charged me for 3 hours and I walked out only $500 poorer. Hopefully this is not a sign of things to come.

Boeing Engineer(eastside328):cry:
I've not had relay failures, but I had a hinge issue that effectively resulted in the same lack of top functioning. IIRC CalWB and Kash have both had relay issues. You are completely right that all the lubrication on the planet will not help if there is a fundamental electrical issue. Maybe we need to start an E93 database of electrical/mechanical issues thread to help people understand the difference between squeaks and rattles and mechanical failures. Bottom line is that anyone who signs up for an E93 needs to fundamentally understand that its care and feeding is above and beyond that of an E90, 91 or 92 due to the extra number of moving parts.
 
#82 ·
Just wanted to throw out a new topic out here:

What does one do with regards to the maintenance of the hardtop hydraulics for the E93. I am referring to that hydraulic gizmo pump thingy that is under the trunk carpet....

Is there hydraulic fluid one should check to ensure that it is adequately filled? :dunno:

Just throwing the question out there asking if any maintenance checks etc needs to be done on this piece of machinery...

:thumbup:
 
#83 ·
Just wanted to throw out a new topic out here:

What does one do with regards to the maintenance of the hardtop hydraulics for the E93. I am referring to that hydraulic gizmo pump thingy that is under the trunk carpet....

Is there hydraulic fluid one should check to ensure that it is adequately filled? :dunno:

Just throwing the question out there asking if any maintenance checks etc needs to be done on this piece of machinery...

:thumbup:
I believe there is a fill level on the fluid reservoir. The fluid should definitely be at the proper level. If you have a leak, then time for a visit to the dealer to find the leak and fix it.
 
#85 · (Edited)
E93 Rest Position

Does anybody have any information on how to make the seals last longer other than just using the rubber protectants? I'm in particluar talking about when you have the car in your garage. When the top is in the up and locked position it is crushing those gaskets when there is no need (ie not raining). I wonder if it is smart to leave the top just barely into the retract cycle ie with the front disconnected but resting on the windshield and the center seam barely seperated. I wonder if that can cause other problems in the future on other hardware. I would think not. It does take the pressure off most of the seals though. Just the part cost on one of the 3 seals is about $500 without labor.

Many ragtop owners unlatch the front of thier tops to take the tension off the fabric and seals when in the garage. I wonder if the situation I mentioned above is the E93 version of that?

When the power relay went out on my top, it would completely unlatch and then not lift. I would think in the garage this would be a good rest position. To replace those seals is expensive. Any thoughts?

I agree that we need to extend this sticky to include electro/mechanical failures or start a new sticky.
 
#86 ·
Does anybody have any information on how to make the seals last longer other than just using the rubber protectants? I'm in particluar talking about when you have the car in your garage. When the top is in the up and locked position it is crushing those gaskets when there is no need (ie not raining).
The same is true for door frame seals and trunk seals. All spend a lot more time closed than open--even more so than the top. Given regular care, none of those collapse from spending more time crushed than expanded. The top seals should be no different: Opening the top periodically to lubricate/protect the seals should be more than sufficient to keep them from taking a "set."
 
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#87 ·
BMW uses rubber gaskets not synthetic. Evenually they will shrink and there is nothing you can do about it but keep the seals plyable. I have had a number of BMW convertibles and each and every one will eventually leak from the front seal to the windshield from the rubber shrinking.
This can take a long time however and I think the sun beating down on the rubber accelerates that process because I have never replaced seals that were protected by the sun. I don't think keeping the top closed in the garage is going to hurt anything actually. Better to have the top down then in some popped up where the load on the hinges and hydraulics is there for however long you leave it in the garage...
 
#89 ·
@eastside328: there's a 2001 Chrysler Sebring convertible in my garage that leaks a little oil from the motor but not a drop of water through the top. It's been my wife's daily driver for the past eight years. I don't think there's much to worry about unless BMW is using inferior seals to Chrysler.
 
#90 ·
Wow...the world needs more people like you Kat. Thanks a million for the info. I just got myself a 328i Convertible for my birthday last week. And now, I made the decision to never buy any other car except for BMW for the rest of my life. It took only one day of driving to spoil me rotten...

Matreyia
 
#92 ·
Kat & Fun2drive,

Followed your instruction and still having problem with top rattle & squeaky noise when the car is on rough surface, the car has been back to the shop five times and deaker could not fix the problem it absolute drove me insane, what is my other option to fix this problem? Current mileague is 2800 miles.
Your reply would be greatly appreciated.
 
#93 ·
It is time to seek out another dealer.
There is no reason the top should have an issue like that.
It would help us to help you to tell us the location of the noise sources.
I know Kat has some information regarding corrections to the front windshield area.

Totally serious about locating another dealer. Has the dealer acknowledged the noise? If so try another dealer and if that doesn't work raise the bar and request BMWNA get involved politely through your dealer.
Hope this helps and please tell us the noise location(s)...
 
#95 ·
Fun2drive @ Submariner,

Thanks for the advise and I will visit another dealer and ask for their second opnion, I had an open case with BMWNA and await for the feld engineer to come out and exam the vehicle along with my local dealer.

The main noise is right at upper corner on driver side window much noticeable and other one is from righr rear passenger top, I requested my dealer and see if they have perform the washer on the latch area and they simple replied it won't be necessary, they indicated the SB was a couple of years old and BMW had implement that already when the car was built, how can you tell if this has been install on your vehicle?
 
#96 ·
I think your dealer need to show PROOF that this isn't required. Frankly I would NEVER darken their door and take the SI to another dealer and explain the issue. Waiting for BMWNA to take action is your choice but for some reason these guys seem to be obstructing the repair of the car. Lubing isn't going to solve a clearance issue which does happen tolerances open up at times...
 
#106 ·
Fun2drive,

I finally got an appoitment set up with BMW technical engineer next week to go over the rattle issue, I hope he could finds out what is the root cause and fix the problem.:yikes:
 
#99 ·
How can I keep my windows clean? no matter how clean the windows after a nice carwash, once you roll the window down and back up it comes up dirty with STREAKS on it all white...how can I fix that?
The only way to prevent streaks when rolling down your window is to wait until the car dries completely which will take a few hours. Depending on the humidity it may even take a day or two.
 
#107 ·
There isn't any problem that they can't fix (is they want to given the expense). I hope you get some level of customer satisfaction and get this problem resolved. All cars even high end models will either have a problem when delivered or discovered after delivery.
Please post what happens so we can all learn from your experience...
 
#108 ·
Engineer came out and he said there is nothing wrong with the vehicle, I'm so upset and will take it to another dealer to have a look at.:mad:
 
#109 ·
One suggestion that might get more attention is to document via audio/video (cell phone or camcorder) noise is and then post to Youtube. BMW and for that matter all car manufacturers follow popular forums like ours and that would get there attention. I would also contact BMWNA with the posted Youtube link to let them know that the problem has gotten to the point that you needed to take this measure to obtain results.
Best idea I can provide at this point...
 
#110 ·
Excellent idea.
Rattles are hard to diagnose unheard. Case in point, a week or so ago I thought I was developing an annoying rattle around my rear view mirror area. After poking pushing and playing with every conceivable thing, I finally determined it was that my V1 wasn't balanced in its mount to the windshield. It wasn't until I hear the noise and saw it bobble that I put the two together. I also had a creak last winter that I finally diagnosed as not being the top, but being the rear and front windows rattling against one another because the seal had gotten dry. That's when I learned about very sparingly using Krytox on the seal between the front and rear window. Not saying these are your issues, just saying that documenting them audibly might be the key to solving them.
 
#111 ·
I was able to tape a short video of the problem and sent it to BMWNA but they refused to look at the video and I kind of expect what the answer would came from the field engineer. I was thinking contact my local ABC news and make a complaint to the consumer affair and see if what they could help.
 
#113 ·
Been in the shop five times since July this year, the car experience this problem around 700 miles when ask if they have perform the BMW RA5437240 and they confirm my vehicle won't need it since the RA was create back in 2009.:dunno:
 
#114 ·
Went pick up the car and dealer told me that BMWNA regional manager would like to take another day to review the problem let's hope he can find the root cause and fix it once for all.
 
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