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My new 325i

2K views 23 replies 7 participants last post by  recessbilly 
#1 · (Edited)
This thing has been pretty fun so far. I did try searching, yet couldn't find the info about strut differences. My 325i has a build date of 10/91. Everywhere I've looked for rear struts says they will work for 7/92 and later. Can someone point me in the right direction? They seem to look identical, use the same mount, and I just don't want to buy the wrong ones. What is the difference?
Thanks in advance.
Also the key doesn't turn to lock the doors, only unlock from the driver's side. How do I lock the doors? :dunno:
And what is the best method for cleaning the window switch contacts? I've almost got all my windows back...









Fixing switches:

 
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#3 ·
OH my God... I would LOVE to have your project car. And by the way, I believe 7/92 will fit your car. It's the same suspension setup I believe. I doubt they would have the E30 setup on your E36. If they did, I want to buy your car, right now.
 
#7 ·
Waiting for tools to arrive to do the wheel bearing, I decided to take the headlights off and polish them.

The right running light is not operating. #33 fuse is good, and showing voltage. Nothing at the clip to the bulb. Blinker works fine. Ground is good. Tried other bulbs. I guess I'm tracing wires tomorrow, as well as painting the bumpers.

New badge from my neighbor too! His son is a BMW technician in Denver.

And a closer look at the damage. Not too bad, but not pretty.
 
#9 ·
You did a good job of repainting, but I think if I was doing that job, I'd have painted it body color.....or semi-flat black. Anything but gray. But that's just my opinion. Better that you care enough to fix it, never mind the color. :thumbup:
 
#13 ·
That looks like the '93 325 I just got!!

Mine's got some niggling problems: low beam failure (right side low beams not working)..it's an HID upgrade, moon roof doesn't retract fully (it WAS when I examined it before purchase!!), light switch lost detent (fixed courtesy a friend), clutch salve cylinder went bad (previous owner had new one, replaced/fixed it). A/C needs re-charging, window washer fluid container has small crack
 

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#17 ·
Rusted. PB Blaster or Kroil are your friends. Spray the splines down and leave it. Come back tomorrow and do the same thing. Leave it. Third day, put the axle nut back on until the threads are fully engaged, but not tight against the hub. Get the biggest sledge you own and whack the crap out of the nut. Repeat until the splined shaft moves. Loosen the nut a little and repeat. After the second session with the hammer the splined part should come out.

Clean the heck out of the hub before putting the new axle in, and put a coating of anti-seize on the splines to help the axle to seat in the hub, and come out easier if you ever have to change it again.
 
#20 ·

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