BimmerFest BMW Forum banner

What engine combinations are known to work in the E39 when the need arises to replace

97K views 93 replies 23 participants last post by  keenansmith7979 
#1 ·
I'm trying to collect, for future users with a suspected blown 'engine', what options they have ...

One option, is to replace the entire engine, as eloquently stated by cn90 here:
- Anyone have info/advice for DIY head gasket repair on 2003 525i E39?

Once they decide to 'replace' the engine (as opposed to fixing it as stated here) ...
- My E39 overheated & I need a new head gasket (1)

They then have the option of 'upgrading' to a different engine.

So the question arises, which upgrades are practical?
 
#2 ·
This response to that question is a great start in providing details as to what engine upgrades are feasible in a typical E39 'blown-engine' scenario:

I have installed a 3.0 into a 525i. I used the existing intake manifold, exhaust manifold, etc and it worked just fine. If you want to use the 3.0 accessories, you will have to buy a lot of extra parts like airbox, maf, engine computer, and align the DME to the key so it will start.
Here is a list of what can be done without a problem to the e39

1999-2000 323i e46 to 2001-2003 525i
2001-2005 325i e46 to 2001-2003 525i
1998-2001 Z3 2.3i e36/7 to 2001-2003 525i
2004-2005 525i to 2001-2003 525i

1999-2000 328i e46 to 1999-2000 528i

1996-1998 328i e36 to 1997-1998 528i

2001-2005 330i e46 to 2001-2003 530i
1999-2006 X5 e53 3.0i to 2001-2003 530i
2001-2002 Z3 e36/7 3.0i to 2001-2003 530i
2004-2005 530i e60 to 2001-2003 530i

2000-2003 X5 e53 4.4i to 1999-2003 540i
1999-2001 740i e38 to 1999-2003 540i

You can upgrade your engine, but you cannot easily go from single VANOS to dual VANOS, you have to stay with what you have. If you have a 2001 525i, you can upgrade to a 3.0, but you have to use all of your existing 2.5 accessories if you do not want to go with the hassle of getting your DME aligned to your key.

If you have a 528i, you cannot really upgrade unless you swap over the wiring, engine computer, transmission, transmission computer, and get the electronics aligned to your car. It is doable, but not really worth it.
 
#32 ·
I am in the process of repairing a 1999 540i with a snapped chain. I haven't taken the heads off yet to look at the valves and and pistons for potential damage but if there is damage and i decide to swap engines, is there confirmation that these engines will work without any other changes to the computer, etc?

I have a 199 540i M62TU and I have a line on a 2000 motor from a 740i E38.

Any help would be appreciated.
 
#3 ·
Over here, is some engine swap information (M52B20->M52B25) ...

I'm in the middle of preparing for an engine swap (M52B20->M52B25).

As i'm going to replace the VCG (it's kinda leaky) i'm not sure if I should do this before or after i've swapped the engine. While it's easier before installing the new engine, i'm afraid the hoist if lifted from engine hook (near vanos) will stress the gasket/seal?

Oh and another thing, the rear diff is 3,46 now but the engine came from a 523 that supposed has 3,23 or in special cases (3,46) - what would it mean if I drove around with a 3,43 ratio (higher) than normal spec? I assume revs / speed will be unchanged?
 
#8 · (Edited)
I have spoke with them in the past about other issues. I can't comment on what you call newer style. How new could it be in an E39? Maybe you meant size?

Call them and ask, they are friendly and can answer all your questions. Mack's and Pleiade's questions too.
 
#6 ·
Interesting thread. I was wondering the other day if my engine blew how hard it would be to have a shop toss in a 3.0? Probably better just to stay with a 2.5 though.
 
#10 · (Edited)
Hydrolock happens almost instantaneously when water gets into the intake system and then into a cylinder. Since water is not compressible the engine stops immediately. If the revs were very slow at the time, and the water was from an external source, the engine may not be damaged. If it happend at speed then there is probably a bent rod or more like a bent crank and a broken piston head.

If the coolant broke into the cylinder, by any path, and at higher rpms, then the engine is toast. But this is very unusual for hdro lock

Are you sure it was hydrolocked? Maybe what happened was that the cooling system lost water and the engine got so hot that it seized. That means that the piston and cylider walls welded themselves together. It you are driving the car it will slow before is seizes. If that is what happened the engine is also probably toast. But it can be rebuilt.

Seizing and hydrolocking are two different failure models. Both invole water (or coolant with 50% water)
 
#11 ·
When speaking to garages when i thought my head gasket had definately failed, the reccomended replacement for my 528 engine was a 525 engine. I was told that it would bolt straight to my current auto box and not require a change in ECU - apparently that only needed to be changed if you increase capacity of the engine. I've no idea if this is accurate, just what i was told by a BMW indy on the phone.
 
#13 ·
Yep. Mine is a 1999. I was dubious about the swap TBH as i think it will make the insurance more difficult and the car harder to sell at a later date. Much better to replace with a good 2.8 (i.e. one with a warranty) and ensure that the cooling system is good so the problems dont recurr!
 
#15 ·
They were probably trying to flog me whatever they had in stock! I agree though - at least upgrade!

The reason they gave me was that the 2.5 was 'bulletproof' - their words....i dont know if thats true. They gave me the impression that the 2.5 rarely went wrong.
 
#26 · (Edited)
I found a few more and spend a bit of effort trying to put it all together into a cohesive set of advice for users with this problem.

How does this look?

- Summary advice to provide users who suspect a major engine repair due to overheating (1) & how to test an engine for blown head gasket, cracked heads, a warped block, cam seizures, contaminated bearings, coolant hydrolock, or piston, ring, or valve damage (1) (2) & a well researched reusable response to a particular user with a blown engine (1) & what questions to ask when severe heating-related damage is initially suspected (1) & what E39 engine swaps are most recommended (1) (2) (3) & how to lift & remove the engine (1) & where to obtain a new or rebuilt replacement short block or long block (1) (2) & why the E39 engines are so prone to heat-related damage in the first place (1) & real-world results from people faced with similar blown engine problems from which this advice came from (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) (11) (12) (13) (14) (15) (16) (17) (18) (19) (20) (21) (22) (23) (24) (25).
 
#27 ·
Are there any links in there about how to drop an S62 into my sweet little engine bay?
 
#29 ·
LOL I already have that. Mostly because they have no clue what's under the hood and it looks mean. Here are shots of 3 photogs taking shots of my car when I was walking back ready to leave 4ngiefest a few weeks ago. LOL blew my mind.

From 4ngiefest

From 4ngiefest
 
#31 ·
Now that's what I'm talkin' about! :thumbup:
 
#45 ·
Buying a whole M5 would be easier than swapping in an M5 engine. Why?

The M5 engine has no components in common with a 540. They are entirely different engines with different ECUs.

Dropping in an LS would be cheaper. And there are a lot of factory available upgrade components.

There are probably more aftermarket up grades to an LS than to any other engine.
 
#48 ·
Jimmys 530i;6051394Just change all of the gaskets while the engine is out.[/QUOTE said:
That's a great idea ....that I would take a little farther while the engine is out.

I would consider replacing the wear items and check everything that is open after the covers come off. Good time to look over the cooling system too.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top