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Car Won't start immediately anymore

11K views 43 replies 15 participants last post by  jwrape 
#1 · (Edited)
I recently had an old fuel line go seriously bad so i replaced both hoses. Since that time my car will not start as soon as i turn the key. If i let the car sit overnight it may take 10-15 seconds (earlier today it took 1 minute) before the engine will catch and start. If the car has just been driven it seems to start in 3-5 seconds, sometimes immediately. I never had an issue cranking this car no matter how many days/weeks/months it sat between uses. A guy at advanced autoparts checked my battery and alternator. Both gave off like new readings. The advanced auto guy suggested that it may be the fuel pump not sending fuel to my engine. Once the car is turned on there are zero issues. At all speeds I feel my car take off when I give it a little or a lot of gas.

Can anyone suggest something I should trouble shoot for an issue like this?
 
#3 ·
sounds like there might be a slight leak and the fuel returns to the tank when sitting. the length of start times depends on how much fuel gets pulled back to the tank. there was a guy one here that sold check valve kits. cant remember him thou
 
#6 ·
lets talk electrical motors real quick. most of the time, when good, they start right up and run like they should. when they start becoming old and worn, they might take a bit to start but run just fine after a few moments.

a way to test this, connect a VOM meter inline with the positive wire at the fuel pump. turn the VOM to amps. when you start the car, it should pull the highest amount of amps within a couple seconds, so the reading will jump around alot at first, then lower down to a few amps and sit. if its going bad, then amp draw will stay high then start goin down slowly.
 
#8 ·
My Z3M has started doing the same thing. When we first bought it, it would ALWAYS take 3 times of spinning it over before it would run.

Just recently it is starting to take 14 seperate spin overs before it starts.

:dunno:

Could mine be that Cold Start Valve?

I have already replaced the fuel pump due to the gas gauge not working. I am about to replace the fuel filter although I don't think that's it cause the car runs great after it starts
 
#9 ·
Cold start injector; fuel pressure; fuel pump; fuel filter; pressure regulator. I don't see this as an electrical/CPS type problem. Could a small part of the old hose found its way into the injector rail? Just a thought.
 
#10 ·
Bad fuel sensor

See my post labeled "out of gas i had a sensor reporting the wrong level of gas and ended up running out of gas. After that i had difficulty starting the car took a few cranks in most cases. I believe you get air in the lines and it takes a while to get that worked out of the system.

Fordent
 
#11 ·
How to break your fuel pump in 1 easy step

Problem is when you run out of fuel, you suck all the gunk in your tank into your fuel pump :eek:
I get a lot of cars in that have a fuel pump destroyed by grit or air lock.
Some cars have a in tank fuel pump that is cooled by the fuel. No fuel no cooling & :mad:
 
#12 ·
I haven't run it out of gas and I DID just put a new fuel pump assembly in the car, but I do have a new fuel filter coming in the mail as well as new Crankshaft Position Sensor. The Cold Start Valve will be the next thing I replace if these two things do not fix it. :thumbup:
 
#13 ·
Pressure check on fuel rail.
 
#15 ·
Does the pump have a fuel sock on it? It like a preliminary filter ive seen them on old chevy they help when you run low and block any particles id say 1/50th of an inch if that from getting through and then had the primary at the carb do these have them?

This captain goes down with the ship
 
#16 ·
Cold start injector usually in center square bit of inlet manifold. While you are at it get ALL injectors rig cleaned and tested. Air in system should be flowed out fairly fast by circulating fuel and end up in the gas (petrol) tank.
 
#17 ·
Last night I changed the fuel filter and the Crankshaft postion sensor.
This morning I drove it to work but the true test will be after I go back out to the car and see how it starts.

This morning it took 3 attempts to start it. I don't know if that was due to air in the fuel lines or what. This afternoon will give me a better baseline.
 
#19 ·
It doesn't seem to be leaking unless it's going into the tank. I am still getting 24mpg on the highway. That seems too good if it was leaking. Is there a check valve that can leak back into the tank?
 
#21 ·
No, there isn't I just changed mine and it's a normal everyday fuel pump. Very simple pump.

Today i put a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail and while just sitting it's 20psi, when cranking it's over 40psi. Seems that the fuel rail is getting plenty of fuel.

This leads me to something in the ignition not wanting to work all the time. :mad:

It is starting to take more and more turn overs before it runs now.

Sometimes it seems as if it won't run and I keep trying and it finally does start and runs perfect. Something is going bad and being erratic. The car is extremely moody now
 
#23 ·
+1 fuel rail should hold better than 20psi. That is a likely cause of the bad start - waiting for fuel pressure to build up.
 
#24 ·
The pressure goes up instantly when the key is turned, but the motor can turn over 20+ times or more and it won't start. It's getting fuel because after it starts you can smell it run rich for a few seconds.

Something is prohibiting it from sparking or something. What do you guys think of the EWS or the DME prohibiting it from starting until I cycle the key enough to trick it on.

THE EWS does not seem to work because the key fob doesn't work. Do these go bad? I haven't been able to get the key fob to work even with a new battery and the little light comes on .

Any more ideas electrically and not Fuel related. I am sure I have fuel delivered.
 
#26 · (Edited)
Also have no codes from the ECU, but when I left the negative terminal off the battery for a hour and then plugged it back in it started on the very first try for the first three times, then it went back to having hard time starting again.
 
#28 · (Edited)
(1) You're in the wrong forum. This is the E30 forum, you have an E36 variant

(2) Your Z3 is an OBDII car. You cannot do a stomp test on an OBDII system. OBDI only.

(3) a 1444 code on a car you CAN do a stomp test on means "no codes stored"
 
#30 ·
So did you get the injectors cleaned and flow tested? How fast does the fuel rail loose pressure?
 
#31 ·
:

Almost immediately falls to a little over 20psi, but in the same when the car turns over it jumps back up to over 40psi. :dunno: No I haven't had then cleaned. Prolly wouldn't be a bad idea. I have another set of injectors as well if I needed them.
But it runs good once it's started, runs normal and strog.
 
#32 ·
Fuel ail pressure dropping a bit fast. Either the FPR or pump letting it drop. Just as a helper turns off the engine clamp the fuel return line and observe the gauge; then do the same but clamp the input rubber tube instead. One will show fast drop the other will hold pressure longer (5 minutes +). That will pinpoint which way you are loosing fuel pressure. At the risk of nagging do the injectors and all the previously mentioned battery areas!!
 
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