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Is that a catch can? Yes it is. Goodbye CCV

255K views 420 replies 72 participants last post by  KennyBarroz 
#1 · (Edited)
So after installing a new CCV the oil drips are still present. I just wanted to do away with that damn thing once and for all and did a LOT of research off this site and some on this site. I left it vented to the air for now so excuse the foam filter. It was the only one I could find locally that would fit. The car started right up, no codes, dash lights etc. The CCV is still attached to the engine I will be unbolting that damn thing once i have more time. I just plugged the vacuum ports on the distribution piece and fabbed up my own connector from the valve cover using the connector from the old CCV. One thing I did notice was a lot of oil in the distribution piece vacuum nipples. Eventually I will have a closed system again. Just waiting on a PCV to come in used for Audi/VW 1.8T engines.

One thing I noticed while driving on the new setup was that the engine tone sounded different, can't really describe the change but the I6 sounded more pronounced? Also the car fell better during acceleration. That may be due to no more oil being sucked into the intake. Stupid new cold weather CCV.

Here are some links that helped me including the PCV valve I will be using to recirculate and the catch can I used. I chose it mainly because of the internal baffling and the 3/4" fittings:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=861315
http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_IV--1.8T/ES7844/
http://store.42draftdesigns.com/Stealth-Oil-Catch-Can_p_289.html

Also thank you to Poolman and CN90 from this site. Your articles were a very good read regarding the PCV/CCV system!!
 

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#41 ·
Cn90 I can place it higher if I remove the hood pad. As it sits now it is slightly touching the pad, when I open the hood there's a very light coating of brown dust on the can and top hose. That pad is pretty damn thick though, if removed id say there would be 2" of clearance above.

I'll post after a few thousand miles of driving. After a couple hundred there is oily watery sludge in the can while the intake hose remains clean. So the can is doing its job. I'll see how much is in there next oil change which is coming up soon. I'm changing the OFH gasket as well since that's the only thing left leaking oil.
 
#42 ·
Like the neatness of all you have done--might switch mine over to the way you have yours made up--do you have a pic of the PCV vale by itself? Mine is like o a 90% angle going down into the catch can. This is another thing that I would like for you to check if you don't mind. Take a paper towel and clean out the back of your exhaust tail pipe as clean as yo can get it. Is there alot of carbon build up there--if so--watch that area and see if the carbon build up goes from heavy to very very light build up---that is waht happened when I did this on my car--very very light carbon build up--before the catch can the build up was very heavy--very heavy indeed. wouldn't be surprised if yours starts burning white back there--any way, thats another spot to check from time to time.
 
#43 ·
http://cdn-live.auto-shepherd.com/2...ucts/FRA/Fram-FV345---FV345_091906_Square.jpg

The threaded part goes towards the intake. On the Mazda engine it actually threads into a runner on the intake manifold.

I just replaced my stock muffler with a Magnaflow 11366 last week (sounds great with resonator removed) The tip is still clean looking after a few hundred miles of highway driving and little stop and go. Ill check my stock can later since I still have it and inspect the new muffler tip as well.
 
#45 ·
I just wanted to do away with that damn thing once and for all
This is such a nice idea that I just had to add it to the bestlinks (see red bold addition below):

- How to test the crankcase ventilation (aka CCV, CVV, PCV, CPV, & OSV) pressure regulating valve system (1) & a video of oil separator quacking chubacca noise (1) & vacuum leaks due to holes in one or more of the five CCV hoses (1) (2) (3) or frozen or torn diaphragms (1) & a clogged CCV (1) causing pressure in the crankcase and smoke in the exhaust necessitating CCV system overhaul (BavAuto M54, M54,M54,M54,M54, & M54 observations) (M52,M52) (M52TU) (M62,M62) ('99 528i) ('98 528i); usually replaced with the insulated CCV upgrade (1) & sorely needed clarification on how the M54 CCV vacuum port works on the M52 CCV valve connection to the fuel pressure regulator connection (1) & how to do a CCV delete (1)

 
#46 ·
thanks for the acknowledgement Bluebee! After about 500-600ish miles on this setup everything is still working perfectly. I swapped rides with my dad who did about a 150mile drive from san diego to orange county/LA area and back to north county san diego and he just loves how the car feels.
 
#48 ·
Gas mileage is about the same. I do mostly highway driving though. As for the muffler tip it is clean, barely(if any) carbon inside.
 
#49 ·
Sounds like your haveing the same findings that I have had--on my car I did this to try and stop oil useage, it helped tremendously in that regard. Glad this is working out well for you--keep us
all informed from time to time--Question--where did you buy your catch can?
 
#50 ·
While washing the car today I wiped my finger inside of the tip of the muffler and there was barely any carbon, it looked like I wiped my finger on the surface of an old dusty cabinet just darker.

I got the can from http://store.42draftdesigns.com/Stealth-Oil-Catch-Can_p_289.html mainly because of the large 3/4" inlet/outlets AND the baffling they use is top notch and slightly overkill. Its like baffling that you find under PCV valves attached to valve covers but overly engineered:



The price may seem high but I figured if I had to get new fittings/taps/various other accessories 42 draft designs price for their can was very reasonable.
 
#51 ·
Thanks for all the info and for letting me know what I dreamed up wasn't just a fluke for my car. When the spring gets here in a couple of weeks, will be working to set towards turning the system
into what you have. Very neat and more out of the way than my creation. On the hose going into the valve cover, did you use the end of one of the original ccv tubes to hook there? Saw the end off and then plug into a vac hose? I want to set everything up before jumping in and doing, don't want to be into the work then have to stop and start driving around to find something to make something work
Great Job
 
#52 ·
Yes I used all the stock fittings from the CCV and the 'L' connector from the valve cover I cut with a dremel to make it a straight fitting.
 
#54 ·
The fittings on the distribution piece I left untouched I just removed the plastic hose part on the front 'L' and attached 5/8" fuel line hose from there to the PCV valve then used 3/4" hose that fit around the hex part of the valves body. And the valve cover attachment I used 3/4".

What I love about the PCV valve I chose is that it uses 5/8" hose, same ID used on the fitting on the distribution unit.
 
#55 ·
Have you had it through a CA SMOG test yet? I doubt that it will pass not OEM.
 
#57 ·
The car was smogged a month before I bought it so I have a while to go before I can see if this setup will pass. Dont see how it wouldnt(besides visual) since it's a closed system like the stock setup on the engine and every other engine minus introducing the blow-by oil sludge into the combustion chamber to be burned.
 
#62 ·
If the e39 OEM CCV is changed with a 39M5 cyclone separator (which has no diaphragm), and at the bottom we fit a check valve so as to avoid oil suction, would that not be a better solution? The M5 cyclonic separator has the 2 main lines going in/out and the bottom for the oil separation, pretty much like the OEM diaphragm CCV. But now, you eliminate the freezing of the diaphragm, or the rupture of it. Not sure if the vacuum is at the correct spec, but this will allow to keep the hoses where they were in a OEM built car, so you still have access to everything else pretty easy.
 
#66 · (Edited)
I've thought about using that M5 oil seperator but decided against it due to someone on the boards (or maybe the other board) that said that it does not work well when using it to replace the CCV. I'll try to find the page again because I dont remember the specifics.

The other option I was looking at and is probably THE best choice was this beauty:

https://www.mann-hummel.com/company/index.html?iKeys=3.1.180.0.0&cScr=35&rec_no=192

And here are good shots of the unit:

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=846480

It's a catch can/valve unit in one with a filter. Only thing that made me not pull the trigger on it was the price, about 230ish dollars and replacement filters are about 40+ dollar range.
 
#67 ·
I've seen that Hummel unit. Looks nice. But again, it also has the diaphragm. The question is: will it freeze when you have a really cold day? And I know we have some nasty cold days here in the winter. If this happens, it's the equivalent of the OEM CCV, which when all is ideal works as intended.
The issue in the cold climate is the water vapour that is sucked together with the oil vapour. The mayo obtained will freeze. If it collects in the same place where the actual OEM CCV sits. The e9x have the diaphragm inside the air distribution piece somewhere. Not sure where the draining funnel is located.
If we can place only the diaphragm in a place where it will never freeze, no matter how cold it's outside, and on the same token to resist heat, and have the collecting/draining unit somewhere, where even if it starts freezing at the beginning of the journey, but will warm up and melt the mayo eventually and let it drain in the oil pan, that would be OK too.
That filter in the Hummel design is overkill if you drain the oil.
 
#68 ·
After reviewing the Mann-Hummel unit documentation, what appears to be a vacuum regulator on the side of the unit is actually a positive pressure blow off regulator.

If you're not going to use a low vacuum, closed regulation system like the stock BMW CCV unit, then I believe that the only safe alternative is just a vented catch can. I believing connecting full manifold vacuum to a closed crankcase is a bad idea. I'll be posting a bunch of technical information on the CCV subject in the near future.
 
#70 · (Edited)
I have been using the full vacuum system on my car now for almost 2 years--from what I have now and what I had before--I'm not looking back--my oil useage was right at 1 qt every 1,000 miles before I hooked everything up. Now my oil useage is 1 qt every 3500 to 4000 miles. My gas mileage is right on when on the highway, wish it was a little better in the city--in my case, this has worked wonders and if it helps anyone else, I'm hope for their success. My mileage on the car is now 225,000 miles--this has worked for me
 
#73 ·
Woops forgot to take better pics of that connection Jason! The ones I posted on page 2 show the 5/8" fuel hose connected to the vacuum connection on the distribution piece. The hose is routed just like how the stock plastic hose is but comes out towards the catch can.



The red is the hose from the connection on the distribution piece.
 
#74 ·
Oh and I have over 1000 miles on this setup and everything is still A-Ok USA. The catch can has had maybe 1/4"-3/8" of soupy muck in it which I just suck out with my mityvac. Exhaust tip is still super clean as well Poolman, if you're reading :thumbup:
 
#77 ·
Everything connection used is OEM. Here is The same piece from that was originally came on the car. I just removed the plastic hoses and attached fuel line hoses.

I'll take a pic of the valve once I get the car back. My pops is borrowing it right now. He sure loves driving it too!
 

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