BimmerFest BMW Forum banner

Last few issues

16K views 148 replies 13 participants last post by  bmw-mania 
#1 ·
Ok so thanks to alota work and alota help from all you guys. My 318 can drive around the block with no squeaks from the suspension, no rubbing on the tires, and on grinding into gear. I think it is safe to say that everything major is done :D


so now my problem is its running a bit rough, and seems to hesitate when accelerating, in a sense somthing just doesnt seem quite right.

I put in new
Plugs Bosh or NGK duel electrode copper plugs ( can remember which )
New spark plug wires
New timing chain tensioner
New oil


I think it is most likely a sensor or a leaky hose. lots of hoses have cracks, the plastic intake piece has cracks... its a mess. so what i wanna know is what is the best way to replace that stuff. do i buy universal hose and cut it to size? or can i buy direct fit ones somewhere. im sure pelican parts has some i just cant seem to find them. :thumbdwn:
 
#2 ·
Go to realoem.com to find what the part numbers you need and order through pelican. A cracked intake boot will give you a bumpy idle. It's just a good idea to make sure all the hoses are crack-free.

NGK plugs all the way. OEM is perfect. OEM wires, I've heard aftermarket wires have a tendency to be shltty.

Other ideas. Seafoam the car(gas,oil,and get some though the brake booster(youtube will show)), clean off the throttle plate, clean the ICV. These will cost about $20 and will most likely cure a majority of the idle and acceleration issues. Just as a note an vacuum leaks, they are usually the main cause of any blips in the idle or rough engine speed at low rpm's.
 
#4 ·
For hoses other than the specialty ones (ICV) , just go to Autozone with the measurements and have them cut some line, replace with new clamps. As for the intake parts, go to a junkyard and find replacements before you purge our wallet on new parts. What exactly is broken and/or cracked? Car sounds like it's a little beat up, after you do all your maintenance I would definitely install a new o2 if it's never been changed before, car only has 1 so it's cake.
 
#5 ·
so i replaced all the hoses in the engine bay and cleaned the maf and throttle body. this all seemed to help.

I also get a fuel / sulfurish smell from the exhaust

can i clean the oxygen sensor? i know sometimes they can be cleaned with carb cleaner.
 
#6 ·
:(

I recall drivin faster saying on more than one occasion that sulfer (rotten egg) smell is attributed to failed/failing cats. They aren't cheap.
 
#10 ·
not quite, ed. it's commonly stated that this is an indicator of a failing cat, but it's not.

If I'm not mistaken, it isn't necessarily indicative of failing cats. But rather, it's symptomatic of cats that are being worked very hard and possibly a lean air/fuel ratio? Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
this. a lean misfire can increase the hc output as well, which will overwork the cat.

to the op, i'd check the operation of the o2, an oscilloscope works well, or a power graphing meter, if you have one handy. (they're a bit pricey but can more than pay for themselves with a few uses)

if not, then you may wish to consider replacing it if the labor to check the operation is as much as replacing it.

you can check for the signal with a dvom, but it will not be an *accurate* indication of how operational that it is as these are very sensitive and can switch (and are supposed to switch), but it will be useful to indicate the sensor is actually switching. this means that you can verify the signal (*a* signal) is getting to the pcm (dme).

i'd also check the temp at the t-stat as well, as the guage should be reading @ the middle when warmed.

df
 
#7 ·
yeah i was thinking it may be worth replacing, when i had my exhaust off there was something rattling around in there. i can weld a new on on ( my exhaust is pretty chopped up already... so it shouldent me more then $100 :)
 
#9 ·
ok so took it to deq today ( first time on real streets ) and it failed. it passed everything but hydrocarbons and it was pretty close on that too

goal
900 RPM 220
2.5k RPM 220

result
900 RPM 260
2.5k RPM 238

The car also got pretty warm on the drive. it was just barley under the half way mark. is that normal for an m44?


so im assuming if the cat were bad it would be far worse. that being said im still getting a burnt smell:(
 
#11 ·
ok so ill replace the fuel filter and run some injector cleaner through it. if that does not help ill order a new o2 sensor. the one in there looks newer (from the outside so who actually knows) the cat is also not original.:)
 
#13 · (Edited)
The actual sensor for an oxygen sensor is inside the opening "gills" of the sensor. I have read that it really doesn't make sense to try and clean them and in fact there is usually a big disclaimer about getting any of that dielectric grease on the oxygen sensor body. So i would never spray them with anything! Heated sensors are only supposed to last 60,000 miles and unheated ones for 30,000 miles so you might be better off just replacing them . BTW the generic Bosch ones work just as well as the BMW specific ones although you may have to splice in your own connector off your old one.

I would just replace it if it is suspect.
 
#14 ·
like stated it is not suspect anymore. I am more then aware that a sensor and a piece of metal are not the same thing. nor did i say anything about cleaning it. i pulled it out wiped it with a dry paper towel. ive done enough to know what a bad one looks like.
 
#16 ·
I am more then aware that a sensor and a piece of metal are not the same thing. nor did i say anything about cleaning it. i pulled it out wiped it with a dry paper towel.
You don't have to get testy just trying to be helpful. You did ask about cleaning the Oxygen sensor in an earlier post.

can i clean the oxygen sensor? i know sometimes they can be cleaned with carb cleaner.
 
#19 · (Edited)
thanks! I got the last of the last of the ordered parts on yesterday and its time for an alignment.

new parts installed

- Melye HD Control arms
- Melye HD control arm bushings
- Krylen inner and outer tie rods
- Raceland coilovers
- Brake pads
- Wheel spacers
- Sway bar brackets
- Front strut mounts
- Rear shock mounts
- Lemforder rear trailing arm bushings
- Spark plugs
- Plug wires
- Oil change
- Fuel filter
- Febi Slave cylinder
- Transmission
- Throw out bearing
- Pivot pin
- Synchromesh trans oil
- RainX windshield wipers

- Plus cosmetic parts

:)
 
#25 ·
thanks! I got the last of the last of the ordered parts on yesterday and its time for an alignment.

new parts installed

- Melye HD Control arms
- Melye HD control arm bushings
- Krylen inner and outer tie rods
- Raceland coilovers
- Brake pads
- Wheel spacers
- Sway bar brackets
- Front strut mounts
- Rear shock mounts
- Lemforder rear trailing arm bushings
- Spark plugs
- Plug wires
- Oil change
- Fuel filter
- Febi Slave cylinder
- Transmission
- Throw out bearing
- Pivot pin
- Synchromesh trans oil

- Plus cosmetic parts

:)
that is quite an extensive list. i just redid my front end, shocks and struts but you have me beat esecially with that transmission in there
 
#22 ·
Where did you find the time to do all this? I can barely spare enough time to drive my cars these days :(
 
#26 ·
thanks! :)

so i got the allignment yesterday and when driving there the bimmer did great, ran good and had plenty of power but twice i got a check engine light.

the first was when i was in first gear and turned off as soon as i shifted to second.

the second was in third gear and went off when i shifted to fourth


i was gettin on it a bit, but not too mu h:eeps:
 
#27 · (Edited)
Clean, Clean, Clean the MAF.. remove screens on MAF, use spray FIRST, (and LIGHTLY with q-tip if necessary) clean the element.
Clean Throttle body
Clean Throttle position sensor
Check for vacuum leaks
Check the hoses that are plumbed into the boot on intake

Disconnect, clean, lube, and reconnect all associated electrical connections.

Cheers!
:D
 
#29 ·
ok ive replaced all the hoses under the hood minus the radiator hoses. Cleaned the maf and the throttle body
but i will do the rest of you list today :)
You're the man! :thumbup:

Note: I said "check" hoses.. I guess I should've said.. "double check"
 
#32 ·
so took her back to deq

Sence last time i put on a new fuel filter, new tie rods, new exhaust gasket, painted the exhaust, and replaced vacuum hoses and other hoses in the engine bay. I know some of that is irrelevant but decided to say everything.

long story short i faild far worse then last time.

Last time i got 238 hydrocarbons
This time i got 352 hydrocarbons


Last time i passed on carbon monoxide under 1
This time i failed with 3.5 carbon monoxide


on there list the two things that are the same from hydrocarbon failure and carbon monoxide failure are "Leaky or malfunction fuel injection system" and "faulty catalytic converter"


the car runs pretty rough at ide and the check engine light came on twice while i was in line at deq and stayed on for a few minutes
 
#33 ·

This post is for informational purposes ONLY.


OG post by Stealth

a very interesting collection of ideas gathered from various sources and from
people that had emissions challenged vehicles but found ways to pass the test ...

================

emissions components which may be inspected by officials for proper operation:

EGR Valve, Air Pump, Charcoal Canister, EVAP System, Smog Pump, Oxygen Sensor, Intake Manifold, Exhaust Manifold, Fuel Pump, Turbo, Supercharger, Header, Camshaft, Fuel Filter, Air Filer, Oil Filter, Carburetor, Fuel Injector, Preheat Tube, Air Injection, Check Valve, Muffler, Solenoid, Fuel Mixture Solenoid, Catalytic Converter, CAT, Heat Riser, OBD II System, On Board Diagnostics Computer and Vacuum Lines.

==================

GUMOUT, Emissions Reducer, 12 oz bottle

"at the pump pour the bottle then fill tank .. in this initila tank, emissions may increase as Gumout works to remove deposits and expel via the exhaust .. ran until tank is near empty .. refill tank .. do not perform emissions test until 2nd or third tank where the emissions benefits will show ....."

=============

make sure your gas tank is only 1/4 to 1/2 full and put 1/2 the bottle of methyl hydrate (fondue fuel) in the tank

==============

Pour pure (90%+) isopropyl alcohol into your fuel tank, it will help to clean up your exhaust emmissions and get your car through the smog tests that most states currently use. Use two 16oz bottles for ten gallons of premium fuel.

===============

pour two litres of methyl hydrate into 1/2 tank of fuel

================

pour two quarts of pure denatured alcohol into 1/4 tank of fuel

===============

disconnect the harness from one injector. The engine will only run on 7 cylinders, but it will pump one cylinder worth of air into the exhaust on every cycle, which serves to dilute the mixture from the other cylinders.

===============

Change oil and leave it a quart low. New oil seals better and low level minimizes the chance of splash onto the cylinder walls. Burnt oil is another source of HC.

================

clean the engine. Burnt oil is another source of HC.

================

Change the engine oil just before you go to test. Fresh 20/50 seals better than any oil with 50 or more miles on it. The idea is to reduce hydrocarbons (HC),

================

leave the tank half full or less. The evap system can be overloaded with a full tank, increasing HC.

================

Bring it in real hot from a highway run. The O2 and cat work best when hot and the throttle body is heated by engine coolant, pre-heating intake air.

================

Drive it on the freeway for about 10 miles before you go to the test in order to be sure that the engine is at full operating temperature

================

put in the highest octane gas you can find, change the oil, and retard the timing slightly (3 deg).

================

Just before the smog test fill up with good winter "Arizona" gas. i.e. unoxgenated gas with enough volatility to easily ignite. ("Winter Gas" is more volatile then "Summer Gas".)

=================

Retard the ignition timing about 3 degrees to help reduce the NOX emissions.

=================

take out air filter

=================

Use a low-restriction air cleaner set. Hellings has one about 1/2" thick with metal wire for a filtering medium. It will only filter out large rocks, but it flows very freely.

=================

Run the fuel tank down as far as possible and refill it just before the test. Fuel has a â***8364;***732;half-life' and it does not burn as well if it has been in the tank for 90 days or more

=================

Put in a new set of spark plugs, gapped.
Convert from carbon core ignition wires to the solid core (metal) type.

=================

Capped off PCV connection to manifold

=================

make sure the tires are inflated to MAX for the dyno test.

================

fuel cap sealing correctly

=================

blowby/crankcase fumes being re-ingested through the air cleaner and throwing the tailpipe readings way off. reroute the crankcase fumes out of the compartment via a "road draft tube"

=================

California now requires all vehicles 1996 and up, to communicate directly with the smog machine during the smog test. This is achieved via your vehicle's OBDII Data Link Connecter. As part of the smog inspection process, the smog technician will connect a Data Cable from the smog machine to your vehicle's OBDII Data Link Plug. This cable will deliver important "Check Engine" codes and "Readiness Flags" from the engine's computer system to the state's smog machine. Emissions related failure codes will cause your vehicle to fail the smog inspection. The failure codes will be printed on the Vehicle Inspection Report (VIR) which will be given to you by the smog station.

================

IF your CA car is required to go to a TEST-ONLY Station, and it fails, and your car qualifies, you must pay for the 1st $100 of diag and repairs with the State paying the next $500. To qualify, the car has to be yours, not in the process of being sold, a CA car, and it should be unmodified.

If you are low income, then you only have to pay the 1st $20.

========================================
http://www.smogcheck.ca.gov/ftp/pdfforms/CAP_app.pdf

========================================

Emissions SMOG test coming up?

precautions i used to help a pass on my car ...

1. wrapped the cats with alum shields to keep them insulated and HOT ..
2. retarded ignition from spec by 3 degrees more...
3. ran a can of Prestone "Emissions reducer" per directions ...
3a. Cleaned the Throttle intake
4. inspected plugs, gapped to spec ...
5. inspected exh headers, gaskets, vac lines for proper conditions ...
6. ran the gas tank to near empty, added 4 gall of highest octane fuel (about 1/4 tank) AND
added 1or 2 qal of PURE choosen "Alternative Fuel additive" .. WOOOOOO .. THAT is a kick ...
7. drained and filled crankcase with FRESH heavy 40W oil & STP, BUT kept it one quart low to avoid "splashing" ...
8. drive wheel tire pressure set at rated tire max psi ...
9. "pulled" connector from A/C compressor ...
10. removed air filter
11. ran 10 miles on the FWY and kept engine running while waiting its turn for the test .. 20 min ...

she passed, well under the limits in every measured item including the high speed dyno test ..
she rans so clean you can sit behind the dual pipes and not smell anything ..

"Alternative Fuel - Methanol, denatured ethanol, and other alcohols; mixtures containing 85% or more by volume of methanol, denatured ethanol, and other alcohols with gasoline or other fuels; natural gas; liquefied petroleum gas; hydrogen; coal-derived liquid fuels; non-alcohol fuels (such as biodiesel) derived from biological material; and electricity. 'P-Series' fuels were added to this list since the original definition in EPAct. "

http://www.eere.energy.gov/cleanciti...s/glossary.cgi

hardware stores like home depot sell "denatured alcohol" by the gallon can.. that is what i used.

note:
none of this is a recomendation and it is only provided as a "report" of how my car passed.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top