To answer your question... A popular combination for an aftermarket clutch and flywheel setup is the ///M5 clutch and UUC lightweight flywheel. They claim it's great for daily driving, but it's a lightweight flywheel that weighs 1/3 the weight of a stock flywheel (8 lbs.). Your car will rev fast, rev hard, and the clutch will probably grab something fierce. Another one I've seen tossed around is the Gripforce clutch and flywheel combo. I believe their flywheel weighs roughly 16 lbs., so it's not as difficult to drive, but it's still going to be completely different than what you have now.
Then again, if you just want an OEM flywheel with the ///M5 clutch, you should be fine. I believe the clutch will feel significantly heavier and grab much more firmly than what you have now, though.
Let me tell you with my experience on my gripforce stage 2 clutch. It is stiff as ****. Probably one of the stiffest clutches I've ever driven even more than a Ferrari testarossa. But it does grip like a mfer.
The E39 M5 has a V8, NOT an I6....everything is different. You would need a clutch from the previous generation E34 M5, which had an I6 engine....
Stay away from those 8-pound ultra-lightweight flywheels, there`s a good reason why they`re labeled "For Off-Road Use Only".
A Gripforce Stage II with the solid billet 16-lb. `wheel would be your best bet....the kit (clutch, flywheel, T/O bearing) can be had for around $500, a stellar deal.
alright sweet, it is my daily driver, the reason i wanted get a flywheel is because id need one if i got an m5 clutch but otherwise i dont think i need one, unless this ebay clutch wont fit my stock flywheel
To repeat the important point, do not buy more clutch than you need.
A simple organic disk will handle a wide variety of use - including street use, auto-x, and even true racing. In fact, SCCA ITS racing rules require a standard OE-spec organic disk. UUC has tested organic disks to reliably handle up to 475hp in long-term street use. M3s regularly run through several auto-x seasons without problems.
A kevlar disk is a good choice for a heavily-tracked or road-raced cars, especially with forced induction.
Carbon/ceramic should be left to high-power cars that see lots of drag racing, or are dedicated track/drag cars.
Sintered iron clutch disks are strictly for endurance racing.
You don't need to go buy the most expensive Stage 84 clutch out there just because you want one. Malibu's car is supercharged, meaning it puts down some significant power. He needs a clutch that's able to hold that much power when he's really romping down on the throttle. Your car, a 325i, doesn't need something like that. Your car will probably never see past 200 WHP (just being realistic), so there really isn't a need to get a Stage 3 or Stage 4 clutch.
yeah i noticed, ive been on here for a bit, only about half a year old in the bimmerfest world though, how old are all you guys? ive seen posts from you five years ago, and you comment on pretty much every post
yeah i noticed, ive been on here for a bit, only about half a year old in the bimmerfest world though, how old are all you guys? Ive seen posts from you five years ago, and you comment on pretty much every post
If you want aftermarket, just get the Stage 1 Gripforce clutch kit... no need for a Stage 2. If you want OEM, buy one from a reputable source (see websites below for examples).
so i got the F1 racing stage 1 clutch today, gonna try to put it in saturday, whats your guys opinion on breaking it in? should i limit my revs to a certain rpm for the first fews hundred miles? and how long till i can drop clutch and floor it, my current clutch is pretty much as bad as it gets, if i floor it, no matter what gear the rpms redline but the car barely accelerates, i miss my bimmer!! i want to feel that super fast 0-60 in 7 seconds again haha
Did you use the splined alignment tool (that comes with the kit) during assembly to ensure that everything was lined up correctly ? Did you replace the pilot bushing ?
When you try to put the trans in, does the input shaft stop at the same place the alignment spline did ? Are you sure the throwout bearing is not getting hung up somehow ?
im not sure, it might be, also there was a cover thing on the pressure plate with a hex insert, i took that out, was i supposed to? the old one didnt have it and it doesnt seem like it would fit if i didnt, what was that for?
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