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How not to change your oil in your E39 (stripped drain plug)

129K views 153 replies 49 participants last post by  Burning2nd 
#1 · (Edited)
I really screwed up my oil change today (car fell off ramps, filter broke at a seam, torqued down the filter cap too tightly, and broke the oil drain plug when I tried to torque it in).

This is my worst oil change in my life!

Obviously my almost-new torque wrench is not working right because I had it set for 18 ft lbs on the 36mm filter cap and 21 ft pounds on the 17mm drain plug and both were put on too tightly - such that the 17 mm oil drain plug broke in half.

Need to find where the missing half is; and I need to find a quick replacement oil drain plug (pictures later as the stores might close soon).

 

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#86 ·
#87 · (Edited)
Someone broke their oil drain plug today and he couldn't find any references on the topic, so I search for him (and found these which I'll post here as a cross reference).

Here is the search result for broken oil pan drain bolts:
- How not to change your oil in your E39 (stripped drain plug)
- Oil Drain Plug Shearing During Oil Change!
- Oil Pan bolt near disaster
- Broke the plug....
- Oil Plug Stripped! Now What ??
- URGENT: engine oil drain plug broke
- Broken oil plug & Broken oil plug!:banghead:
- I Literally Want to Cry....
- Broken Oil Plug 0n E39 1998
- Magnetic oil drain bolt broke in half

Here is the search result for stripped oil pan threads:
- Drain plug / oil pan stripped on 2.8 Z3
- oil plug bad
- '92 325i-- oil drail plug stripped HEEEELP!
- Oil pan stripped (use level sensor as a drain plug)
- Oil pan stripped (weld plate over hole)
- Oilpan Leak! Help

Here is a good cn90 DIY on changing your oil the gravity feed way:
- DIY: E39 Changing engine oil made simple

And, read this BEFORE you select a vacuum extractor:
- DIY - BMW E39 Oil & Filter Change (vacuum extraction method)
- Why I don't recommend the Motive Vacuum Oil Extractor ...

Note the bevy of potential solutions:
- Use a 6mm wide screwdriver to spin the broken half out
- Use an EX-4 screw extractor (aka easy out) to spin the broken half out <-- recommended
- Reverse drill the steel broken half out of the aluminum oil pan
- Retap the stripped threads in the aluminum oil pan (but generally the bolt breaks before the threads strip)
- Wrap teflon tape on the threads of a new bolt and screw it in abutting the broken bolt half
- Heli-coil the stripped threads in the aluminum oil pan
- Drop the E39 V8 il pan to access the bolt if it fell through (dropping the E39 I6 oil pan is a nightmare)
- Weld over the hole and use the MightyVac oil extractor from the dipstick forever more
- Weld over the hole and use the oil level sensor as the drain plug instead
- Access the broken bolt inside the oil pan through the leveling sensor opening
- Buy an aftermarket oil drain bolt (e.g., EAS Tuning magnetic bolt, or Fumoto drain valve)
- Some people even bought a new oil pan!

Here's a one-line summary of all threads above for the E39 the VERY best of E39 Links thread:
- How to fix broken or stripped oil drain pan plug bolt threads (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) (11) (12) (13) (14) (15) (16) (17)
 
#88 ·
As another example of how not to change your oil, see this V8 stripped oil drain plug thread.

Notice that the V8 plug is different than the I6 plug:
I6 = hollow, almost always the head breaks off, hard to remove pan
V8 = solid, often the threads strip on the plug, easy to remove pan

 
#89 · (Edited)
For the record, to help others, I compressed the list of useful stripped oil pan drain bolt threads in the bestlinks thread for easier reference:
- How to fix broken or stripped oil drain pan plug bolt threads (0) (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) (11) (12) (13) (14) (15) (16) (17) (18)

And, I just found this nice cn90 multi-model BMW oil pan R&R and oil pan gasket DIY in the E39 forums (1) to help someone with a BMW 2000 528i leaky oil pan gasket who needed a BMW E39 528i oil pan gasket DIY.http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=665810

STRAIGHT Fromt Mitchell Repair Book:

OIL PAN Removal
1. Drain engine oil. Disconnect wiring from oxygen sensor. Detach wiring from holder at transmission crossmember.

2. Remove bolts and exhaust pipes from exhaust manifold. On vehicles with automatic transmission, remove crossmember for center of gravity suspension.

3. Remove bolts, and detach exhaust pipe from transmission holder. Detach rubber rings from exhaust pipes. Remove rear bolts and lower exhaust assembly down.

4. On all models, release hinge at hood, and prop hood open past center position. Remove air cleaner/air mass sensor assembly.

5. Remove generator air intake duct.Remove rivets, and pull out radiator cooling fan cowl. Using Pulley Holder (11-5-030) and 32-mm Wrench (11-5-040), turn cooling fan nut clockwise to remove cooling fan. Remove clips at top of radiator.

6. On 3-series, remove grille from fresh air intake duct. Remove electrical lead along fresh air intake duct. Remove right holder and fresh air intake duct.

7. On all models, remove guide tube for engine oil dipstick. Note serpentine belt routing. Insert socket into drive belt tensioner bolt. Compress tensioner by slowly rotating socket clockwise, and remove drive belt.

8. Remove power steering pump bolts. Remove power steering pump. DO NOT disconnect power steering lines. Remove bolts and power steering pump oil supply tank. Hang power steering pump and oil tank aside.

9. On 3-series, insert socket into A/C compressor drive belt tensioner bolt. Compress tensioner by slowly rotating socket clockwise, and remove A/C compressor drive belt. Remove A/C compressor. DO NOT disconnect refrigerant lines.

10. Remove ground strap and right engine mount nut. Remove left engine mount nut. Loosen lower nuts on right/left engine mount. Attach Engine Holding Hoop (00-0-200) and Sling (00-0-204) to engine carrier. Raise engine as far as possible. Ensure wiring harness, ducts and hoses are not stretched or pinched.

11. On all models, remove oil pan bolts. Lower oil pan. Turn sprocket nut clockwise, and pull oil pump sprocket off splines. Remove bolts and oil strainer. Remove bolts and oil pump. Remove oil pan by pulling it rearward.

Installation
1. To install, reverse removal procedure. Use Elastic Sealing Compound (3 Bond 1027B) to fill joints between oil pan and front timing case and rear cover.

2. Tighten oil pump sprocket nut counterclockwise. Nut uses left-hand threads. Ensure serpentine belt is correctly routed and properly seated in grooves. Turn 32-mm Wrench (11-5-040) counterclockwise, and tighten cooling fan nut. See TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS .

© 2008 Mitchell Repair Information Co., LLC. Page 1 of 1 ENGINE - 6-CYL. (M52, S62) -2000 BMW 528i 2/17/2009 http://www.ondemand5.com/mric/common/asp/printart.aspx

This is from M52 Motor for E46 so you can get the idea:
http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=665810

 
#90 · (Edited)
The debate about torque wrenches is very easy to resolve.....professionals use torque wrenches, hacks don't.

I don't care how long you've turned wrenches, there is no way you are going to "guess" torque correctly. The 5:30 - 7:00 method? That's great if it works for you but how close are you with your torque? I'll bet you're further off than you think!

I've turned wrenches for close to fifty years now.....torque specs are developed for a reason....not only does the torque ensure the fastener is tight enough but the torque specs also allow for heat/cold expansion/retraction.

You may be able to get by with not torqueing fasteners on these "little" engines/transmissions but see how long your career lasts (and the machine you're working on) when you're dealing with engines costing $750k and more and transmissions costing upwards of $500k.

The use of a good quality, calibrated torque wrench will ensure proper fastening and will not break bolts. In my experience, most people don't use torque wrenches properly either....once the wrench "clicks" they continue to turn and ultimately break a bolt.

Me? I'll continue to torque AND I have my torque wrenches calibrated regularly.
 
#91 · (Edited)
The debate about torque wrenches is very easy to resolve.....professionals use torque wrenches, hacks don't.

I don't care how long you've turned wrenches, there is no way you are going to "guess" torque correctly. The 5:30 - 7:00 method? That's great if it works for you but how close are you with your torque? I'll bet you're further off than you think!
I guess I am a Hack then hehe!

Well, many many professional mechanics (that I know) do not use Torque wrenches for simple jobs like oil changes etc because it wastes their time.
They use Torque wrenches only for critical jobs such as engine rebuilding, small nuts and bolts on the Valve Cover, Water Pump, i.e., the nuts and bolts that are easy to strip.

The 5:30 - 7:00 method was confirmed by myself using a Torque Wrench. I mark the nuts/bolts, and make note of what 30-35Nm turns the nut/bolt and noticed that the 5:30 - 7:00 method works well to achieve 30-35Nm. I did NOT mention The 5:30 - 7:00 thingy out of the blue!

PS: I have a high quality Torque Wrench that I use all the time. The problem with oil change at home for us DIYers is that: the car is on ramps and the ground clearance is not much, and using a Torque Wrench in such situation is very difficult.
Another place where it is very difficult to use Torque Wrench is the brake caliper bolts.
 
#92 ·
I've been a hack myself plenty of times...lawn mowers, HD suspension parts, and some things I just didn't want to mess with a torque wrench. I do, however, use mine quite a lot.

Do I use one EVERY time? Nope! But, if I'm paid to tighten something, I torque it.

I saw a drain plug come out of the rear oil pan on a Cat 3516 once while under full load.....the engine was turning at 1900 rpm and because of the oil demand at full pressure (and probably being a little low on oil), prevented the front pan from keeping the rear pan full enough to keep the pump primed....it was all over before the low oil level sensors could detect. Damage was limited to bearings and crankshaft. A new engine and 6 weeks of removal/replacement brought it back on line. $20m dollars in lost production and $250k for engine replacement. A simple loose drain plug caused it all.

Sorry to bore you with the story but....I torque!!

Carry on.....
 
#94 ·
I use the Femco no spill drain plug kit on my truck and I will be adding one to the BMW soon. No more busting bolts, replacing copper washers or cleaning oil from the garage floor.

To install you replace your drain plug with the one in the kit. The plug screws into the pan and has a threaded outer sleeve. (sticking out from the pan) The drain hose has a brass fitting on one end whcih screws onto the ourter sleeve of the drain plug and this actuates the valve inside the fitting and the oil starts flowing.

You won't need a single tool to slide under the car and get the oil draining, and I can direct the drain tube anywhere I want. No mess at all.

When you're finished, remove the drain tube and cover the plug with a nice protective brass cap. The fitting seals the pan automatically when you remove the hose the cap just keeps dirt out.

http://www.westernfleet.com/femco_plugs.php
 
#95 ·
my oil drain plug was leaking so i went to Bmw and bought a new plug and washer. Installed it (no free spinning all is tight) last night and all seemed well, this morning i saw a small puddle again and the same leak at the bottom of the drain plug is back...what's going on here do i need a bigger bolt? weld the thing and drain from sensor? use two washers?
 
#99 ·
.....gasket is not compatible with synthetic oil...
Where did you read this, "National Inquirer" magazine???
Of course the OFH gasket is compatible with engine oil because it is designed for that.

When dealing with any oil leak in any car, the best thing you can do is:
- Degrease the dirty area and rinse it with gentle stream of water.
- Then check for oil leak everyday after work with flashlight and mirror.
 
#104 · (Edited)
replacing drain bolt and washer did not solve the leak at the drain hole...welded the drain plug and hole- problem solved. And since i live in manhattan and don't have a personal garage, ramp or lift a mityvac has been ordered (despite reports that it is not compatible with synthetic oil, many have used it for years with no problems) im now in the extractor club...but may still drain from the oil sensor once every few years to see if any foreign objects drain even though the oil filter is supposed to take care of that
 
#103 ·
standard tools required
I've screwed up vacuum extraction oil changes and I've screwed up gravity feed oil changes. :)

Personally, I prefer the gravity feed over the (Motive) vacuum extraction.

But, maybe that's because the Motive stinks compared to, say, the MightyVac or Pella. Dunno.

DETAILS:
- How to do a gravity feed oil change (1) & vacuum or drill extraction oil change (1) (2)
- How not to do a gravity feed oil change (1) and how not to do a vacuum extraction oil change (1)
 
#107 ·
By way of xref, there's yet another oil-pan stripped plug question over here:
- Oil Pan replace or fix? HELP NEEDED ASAP

The funny thing is that ALL the questions so far in that thread are re-hashed questions that are covered in the reference links in gory detail:
- How to fix broken or stripped oil drain pan plug bolt threads (0) (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) (11) (12) (13) (14) (15) (16) (17) (18) & replacing the oil pan & BMW E39 oil pan gasket DIY (1)

I guess that's how forums work. I'd like to see the OPs reading the reference threads, and then, if there's ADDED VALUE, then asking their questions.

Anyway, this is just a cross reference to the oil-pan stripped drain plug dilemma many of us encounter.

In that thread, CN90 kindly provides this helpful information:
Now if the oil pan threads are bad (I doubt it), then:
a. Consider an oversized plug as mentioned above.
b. If you ever get to Timesert or Helicoil stage, leave this job for a pro. It is not hard but needs to be done correctly. Someone scares you about "...steel shavings inside the oil pan..." but it is not that scary. The key thing when doing Timesert is:
- Tap and die using lubricating oil and back out the tap frequently so metal shavings are removed periodically, this way there is minimal fragment inside the sump.
- At the very end, insert a small suction tube and suck out all metal fragments.
- Then slightly close the drain plug (do NOT tighten it), pour may be 2 quarts in the engine, then remove the plug, the initial gush will push the metal fragments out.
Repeat this 2 x and the sump should be free of fragments.
 
#109 · (Edited)
Someone asked today what model Mann filter to purchase ...
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > mann oil filters.

... so I dug up these self-explanatory pictures of mine from the following threads which should be generally useful to others:
- Cn90 How to change your oil; and Bluebee how NOT to change your oil!
- How to do a gravity feed oil change (1) & vacuum or drill extraction oil change (1) (2)
- How not to do a gravity feed oil change (1) and how not to do a vacuum extraction oil change (1)

(I've never bought the Mahle filters so if you have a picture of the right one, please add it to this thread for others to benefit.)


925 = 6-cylinder engine
938 = V8 engine
 
#110 · (Edited)
Thank you for this thread and all the valuable information in it!

Hi y'all! This is my first post here. I just had to register to thank bluebee and others for posting this valuable information here.

Just yesterday I was doing some maintenance on my 1991 E34 525i, and when I was unscrewing the oil sump drain plug, it snapped in half (much like in bluebee's pics). You can imagine how I felt at that moment. :cry:

However, I spent last night Googling for solutions and stumbled on this thread. Thanks to bluebee's encouraging results with the EX-4 screw remover, I went and bought a similar tool today, and voilĂ : I just managed to unscrew the remaining half of the drain plug and extract it in one piece. It seems that the threads stayed intact, so now I'm only waiting for a replacement drain plug I ordered.

So, thank you again. If not for this thread and a few other similar ones, I would have probably taken the car to a shop and ended up paying a fortune, whereas now I only paid some 25$ for the screw removal tool set. :)
 

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#111 ·
Hi y'all! This is my first post here. I just had to register to thank bluebee and others for posting this valuable information here.

Just yesterday I was doing some maintenance on my 1991 E34 525i, and when I was unscrewing the oil sump drain plug, it snapped in half (much like in bluebee's pics). You can imagine how I felt at that moment. :cry:

However, I spent last night Googling for solutions and stumbled on this thread. Thanks to bluebee's encouraging results with the EX-4 screw remover, I went and bought a similar tool today, and voilĂ : I just managed to unscrew the remaining half of the drain plug and extract in one piece. It seems that the threads stayed intact, so now I'm only waiting for a replacement drain plug I ordered.

So, thank you again. If not for this thread and similar, I would have probably taken the car to a shop and ended up paying fortunes, whereas now I only paid some 25$ for the screw removal tool set. :)
Welcome to forum,

I have learned this the hard way over the years.

Now for every car I have at home, I always go to dealer (it does not matter if it is a BMW, Toyota, Honda, or Volvo etc.) and buy a spare drain plug and store it in the glovebox to save you time/hassle later.

For small parts like this, local dealer is the best resource because if you order online + shipping, it is more expensive than a trip to local dealer.

Personally, I think you should have ordered 2 plugs, one to fix the current problem and one for the glovebox. I pay $6/each at local dealer.
 
#113 ·
In keeping with the pictorial nature of this HOW NOT TO thread, cn90 posted to the following links a wonderful assessment:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > DIY: E39 Changing engine oil made simple (how to do it in 30 minutes and not crying!)
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Oil filter purchase at NAPA

I have both Mahle and Mann Oil Filters (for 6-cylinder E39) at home.
So I took some photos, you can see that Mahle has a plastic rings at the top and bottom.
Just slight difference in design, no big deal.

As long as you stay away from Man counterfeit, then you are fine with Mann.
On the other hand, if you are worried about Mann counterfeit, go with Mahle.

Here is the photo showing the difference between Mahle (Made in Austria) vs Mann (Made in Mexico):

 

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#114 ·
In keeping with the pictorial nature of this thread ...

Saint Q just posted over in this thread today a nice picture of the oil level:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Oil level check

Oil fill doesn't really require an "absolute correct level". All that is requires is that the oil is above the MIN level and below the MAX level.
 

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#115 ·
For the record, there is another I6 broken oil pan bolt today:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Idiot tries to change oil

couldn't think of more of a clever title.

i just drained my oil and im getting ready to put the bolt on. I hear a little crack and now the bolt seems to be spinning and not loosening or getting any tighter. i've had a long day this tops the cake.

before i start banging it in and laughing like a madman while doing so, any suggestions?

also its too far in to ply it out.
The following was suggested, containing all the links one may need:

- How to fix broken or stripped oil drain pan plug bolt threads (0) (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) (9) (10) (11) (12) (13) (14) (15) (16) (17) (18) & examples of an E39 M5 oil pan helicoil repair (1) & an E39 M5 timesert repair (1).
 
#118 · (Edited)
This question today is relevant for this threads has we want to know what NOT to do when replacing these two o-rings:

Interested in any input as to sizes and material (Buna, Viton?) of the two small green "O" rings on the end of the oil filter cap center post.

Realoem seems to report them both as 7mm x 2.50mm HOWEVER, when removed, they appear to be different sizes?

Very end one looks like 7 x 2.5 but the one further up the center post looks larger and a little thicker.....maybe 8 x 3? I'm reading this as ID x CS, correct?
RDL reported BMW recommends the o-rings be changed every oil change.
EDIT:

FWIW, BMW recommends changing these O-rings every oil change.

View attachment 357163

RealOEM says the part # is 11 42 1 744 001, at least for my M54. Top and bottom are identical size - at least when then are new. :D Check RealOEM for your car to be sure that there isn't a difference between engines. Cost is ~$0.40 to $0.75 from internet suppliers for BMW branded. Probably less from an industrial supply house for the same size.

I've seen them listed by BMW dealers with internet sites, EAC turning, BimmerSpecialist and eEuro. Likley many others too. Try the part # in
http://www.furiousmethod.com/
My cap cracked after 12y, P.O. tightened it too much.
I broke the cap when I opened it.
New cap is $28 at dealer and you get new tiny O-rings.

PS: I personally think the O-rings should be changed every 6-7y, not every oil change.
The O-rings on my cap are now 7 years old, zero problems.
I suspect you're right about that. Probably the engineers figured if they specified say every 10 oil changes, it would never be done.

I changed mine and the cost of the O-rings is nothing compared to the effort prying the slimy little buggers up, off and over without breaking or scratching grooves/seats. It didn't seem to me that the old O-rings (age unknown but probably original from the factory) were damaged or deformed. But since they seal an oil circuit it was worth it for the peace of mind.
I guess I'll change them every couple of years, mostly because I bought what now appears to be a semi-lifetime supply.:D
Having done this on several occasions--including just two weeks ago--I can offer a tip.

With your thumb and forefinger near the edges of a shop towel or sturdy paper towel, pinch/press opposite sides of the O-ring hard against the cap post. Then squeeze toward the side away from your hand, distorting the O-ring into an egg-shaped profile. Use needle-nose pliers to grasp the ring at the point of the egg, where it is pushed away from the post, and stretch it off. Easy peasy, lemon squeezy.

BMW has started supplying these rings as part of some oil sets (filter, cap seal, post seal, crush washer). I struggled with the first, thought of the shop towel to gain the needed friction and now I can pop 'em off in ten seconds. You could also use diagonal cutters instead of pliers and just snip them off, too.
I used a pick with a 90 turn at the end and just walked them off.

The 11 year old O-rings were a little hardened, but they were probably serviceable.
 
#119 · (Edited)
I was looking up all the o-rings for this thread:
-> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Let's create a list of o-rings (by size & by part number) to buy when ordering parts

Yet I hadn't realized we had listed the proper o-rings (for an oil change anyway) here in this thread already.

Anyway, the parts list for an oil change is shown below, should it be needed in the future:


  • Two small o-rings on the bottom of the oil filter stem
  • Two small o-rings at the top of the oil dipstick,
    • 11431717666, 9mm ID x2.2mm Thick (Quantity=2) $0.73 each
  • Large o-ring on oil filter cap (usually comes with the oil filter)
  • Large o-ring at the bottom of the dipstick guide tube
    • 11431740045, 19.5mm ID x3mm Thick (Quantity=1) $1.81 each
  • Power steering cap o-ring
  • Oil filter housing oddly shaped gasket

Photo below is from this thread.
 

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#120 · (Edited)
In this E46 M54 thread today, apparently the stem broke off keeping oil in the oil filter canister:

As you surmised, we have discussed the purpose of those o-rings (and the tip specifically), and have come to the conclusion that the stem keeps the oil INSIDE the housing (for startup purposes):
- How to properly change the oil in the I6 engine (1) & how NOT to change it (1)

Patent 5,516,425


Of course, if the stem is broken off, then it will STILL keep the oil in the filter housing, so, that's the very first thing I would check.

Here's a picture from that thread showing the stem in my M54 (ignore the captions as we've found out all the o-ring sizes by now):
A spin-on oil filter can be mounted in an easily accessible position on an engine by means of an oil filter housing comprising a lower housing unit, which comprises an open-topped chamber, and an upper housing unit. A male threaded portion, adapted to mount a spin-on oil filter, extends up from the bottom surface of the lower housing unit. A flat gasket sealing surface is located on the bottom surface, wherein the gasket surface is perpendicular with the male threaded portion. The housing comprises three passages: (i) a first passage adapted to permit flow of dirty oil to an oil filter mounted on the male threaded portion; (ii) a second passage adapted to permit flow of filtered oil away from an oil filter mounted on the male threaded portion; and, (iii) a third passage adapted to permit drainage of oil from the open-topped chamber. The upper housing unit is removably attached to the lower housing unit, and is adapted to cover the open-topped chamber. Methods of maintaining the filter and of adding refill oil are facilitated by this housing.
 
#121 ·
Yet more ways NOT to change your oil are discussed here today:
2001 530i
I-6

Going to change my oil later today. I already picked up 7 quarts of Castrol Edge Synthetic. Plus a new Fram oil filter.

My question is, the oil filter looks like it is squeezed in tightly between the Power steering reservoir, the plastic engine cover, over the intake, next to valve covers, and a rubber hose.
It looks like the back of the oil filter cover is either touching or a hair under some of those parts. After I drain the oil, and take the 36mm filter socket, and unscrew it, will it lift straight up, or will I have to do some dance or remove any other items, or tweak them over a bit.... and to put the filter in and cover back on,, same things,, easy or pain?

I am not new to engine work, just my first BMW oil change..

I cannot absolutely be sure of the exact date of the last oil change, because I bought the car used. If I went by color I would say it's time, but for all I know it still has time, but I would rather be safe and do the oil and filter change now. It already has new air filters.
It runs really good.

Thanx for info and tips. yes, I know it is probably already in some FAQ, but I thought my question is a bit more specific because of the filter location, squeezed in close with things 'almost' over the back side....

:dunno:
Two things:

1. Return that Fram filter. Use only BMW, Mann or Mahle. Nothing else!

2. Read this DIY:
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=459141
Has this happened to anyone else?

I had to destroy the old oil filter in order to get it off the filter housing cap. It had been on only for a few months but it seemed stuck like it was glued on permanently.

 
#122 ·
For the record, there was a discussion about which oil filter to use over here today:
So I go into autozone to get my Mobil 1 oil for the BMW. The guy tells me that with the 8 qt s I get a free oil filter!

So I ask him what does he have?
"Let's see we have STP in stock"
Whatever! I tell him! You can't give that brand away! Keep it!
Not going to roll that dice.
It was Funny to see the sales guys expression. Somewhat surprised but then understood.
Anyhow, thought I would share the experience.
To which, I had responded (for the record):

I've learned, over time, what to look for in (any brand) of oil filter - but - when I was (not much) younger and dumber (aka before I joined bimmerfest) - I bought both Fram & STP oil filters!

Here, for example, was my very first BMW oil filter change:

When I wrote the obligatory DIY, people corrected me immediately, on my choice of oil filter brands:


Over time, I learned WHY you don't want the STP oil filter:

The seam and the rubber mounting are, shall we say, problematic in our bimmers:

And, soon thereafter, I learned why you also don't want Fram oil filters.

Soon, I learned that most use Mann filters, so I picked up a bunch (don't worry about the oil choice, for now, as this is just about the filter).

While I chose Mann, many use Mahle:

And, some use Hengst:

You can even get other brands for your bimmer, such as Mobil 1 oil filters:

Or, Napa Platinum oil filters:

Or, Napa Pro One oil filters:

Or Fram ExtraGuard oil filters:

Or even PepBoys Purolater Classic oil filters:

But really, most of us use plain old Mann oil filters:

Of course, after having joined bimmerfest, now when I write an oil-change DIY, I use the suggested oil filter brands:


Note: Here's a basic parts list for an oil change:
- Oil filter & 91x4 O-ring & copper crush washer (Mann, Mahle, Hengst, or BMW P/N 11427512300)
- (1) oil pan drain bolt (M12x1.5x18, BMW P/N 11131273093)
- (1) extra copper crush washer (A12X17-CU, BMW P/N 07119963151)
- (2) oil filter stem o-rings (7x2.5, BMW P/N 11421744001)
- (2) dipstick handle o-rings (9x2.2, BMW P/N 11431717666)

See also:
Cn90 How to change your oil; and Bluebee how NOT to change your oil! and A BMW E39 Oil & Filter Change (vacuum extraction method) DIY
 
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