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How to make your own BMW special cooling system & drive belt counterhold tools

215K views 150 replies 42 participants last post by  Eedy 
#1 · (Edited)
Are these Bentley-specified special tools really needed for an overhaul of the BMW 525i E39 cooling system and belt-drive components?
1. cooling fan counterhold tool BMW 11 5 030 (I6) & BMW 11 5 040 (V8) [Note: This tool is described with many names!]
2. cooling fan 32 mm wrench (BMW 11 5 040)
3. 24mm hollow thin socket alternator pulley nut removal tool (BMW 12 7 100)

Does anyone have a drawing of the (1) water-pump-pully-counterhold tool dimensions?

REFERENCES:
Bentley pages 020-16, 110-2, 121-2, 170-15, & 170-23.
http://www.samstagsales.com/bmwtools.htm
http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/catalog/shopcart/BE39/POR_BE39_TOLtol_pg3.htm
http://www.germanpartsonline.com/bm...cylinder-engines-m50-m52-m52tu-m54-from-1992/
http://www.magnum1.com/BMW-740/740_Pages/Maintenance-Pages/Water-Pump-740.html



 

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#94 ·
#96 ·
Do we really need the SLOT in the fan counterhold tool?

I was wondering ... do we really need the SLOT in the fan counterhold tool?

Look at this picture of my M54 with the fan counterhold tool in place.

WHY would we need the slot (which is harder to manufacture at home)?

Do you think it would work (almost?) as well without the slot?

 
#97 · (Edited)
For the record, here's yet another way to use a common tool as a viscous fan pulley nut counterhold tool!
- Single Vanos Seals! Done (post #57)

 

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#98 ·
For the crosslink record, folks over on the E34 side of the house are making some really uuuuugly 32mm fan clutch nut counterhold tools! :)
- Fan removal

BTW, did anyone ever make that CNC program for others to download?
 

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#100 ·
For the record, folks on the E34 side of the house are asking for people to ship the fan clutch removal tools to them (and they'll ship 'em back).
- Anybody wanna lend me tools?

Seems to me we've got plenty of solutions in this E39 thread which would cost less than two-way shipping of the tools! :)

BTW, here's the famous smolck video of the hammer & wrench method:
 
#101 ·
#102 ·
For the record, someone today didn't know about this thread where there are PLENTY of alternatives for holding the waterpump bolts in place while removing the fan clutch nut:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > tools for a new owner

Hi,I am a new owner of a 2001 530i. I am planning to do a coolant system overhaul ... Do I need 32 mm wrench for fan clutch or a 32 mm socket mounted on 1/2" drive will do. http://www.harborfreight.com/32mm-x-12-drive-impact-socket-67830.html

I will first try a screw driver for holding the waterpump from turning and then go for special tool
To help that OP out, I pointed him to this thread, which has many options, most of which are far better than using a screwdriver and "32mm socket" ... and all of which are far more likely to work! :)

Hopefully, that OP will do the job, and then write back here as to which tools he found best so that the NEXT person benefits, as always, from each of our repairs!
 
#103 ·
For the crosslinked record, today Dan reported that his cooling system overhaul went well ... and ... he didn't need anything more than a screwdriver to hold the waterpump pulley in place when removing the fan clutch nut:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Finished my cooling system, thanks guys!

the fan clutch counter holder is probably helpful but CN90's recommendation with lodging a screwdriver by the nut worked just fine
 
#104 ·
For the record, make sure the counterhold tool you make is as strong as you can make it!

Why? GSA1 this weekend, had a problem with a counterhold tool that worked previously just fine, multiple times, - but two of them bent on this particular fourth vehicle:
- Please help me!!.. Vanos seals install

We got to the fan bolt removal process and broke the hold down tool..One I made [based on plans from this thread] and had used three times before. No problem (I thought). Added some PB Blaster and took out the metal stock I bought that was leftover from the other, original tool build; and cut, drilled and grinded out a new one. After hours of PB Blasting and trying to break the nut free, the second tool bent and was unusable.

SO...I decided to remove the entire cooling system from the car at the water pump. Not very easy to do, unless the fan is out of the way, but we managed. Also took out the radiator to facilitate removal of everything as a unit. The nut wouldn't break free with the unit off the car either.
To which Fudman concurred that a strong steel tool is needed:
Your story reminds me of when Hooray! came over for his seals replacement. I had built a fan nut holder out of some cheesy flat plate steel bar that bent when we tried to apply torque. Belt friction didn't work and NeverSayNever wasn't home to borrow his. We fortunately found a machine shop that modified a garage door arm for us (for only $30!). That delay cost us about 3 hrs.
Moral of the story:
- You may not need strong steel (mine, for example, was easy to remove)
- But - you may need strong steel (so plan ahead).
 
#106 · (Edited)
For the record, this thread has helped others recently:
- E46 (1999 - 2006) > Help needed. Drive pulley nut stuck.

Does anyone have a sketch of the tool? I have the ability to manufacture one myself. I just need to know where to drill the holes.
Also, in that thread, is one reason why the BFH method is dangerous:
Naturally, the wrench slipped and cracked the plastic coupler between the thermostat and upper radiator hose.
Of course, it helps to hit the hammer in the right direction (clockwise), which was partly the reason for the additional damage above, apparently.


 

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#107 · (Edited)
For the record, today yet another E39 owner has had problems getting the viscous fan clutch off ...
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > e39 fan clutch removal, need help

I am trying to finish my cooling system overhaul but cant seem to loosen the fan clutch off of the water pump, any suggestions???
Here are some answers to leverage back to here so others benefit.

There are three common approachs:
1. Use the belt friction to hold the clutch while whacking the 32 mm wrench. (see the Beisan DIY)
2. Use the fan clutch holder tool (~$20) to hold it in place and a 32 mm wrench.
3. Use a screwdriver and wedge it into the clutch to hold it. (This is a cn90 trick)
I find the fan clutch tool works easiest with lowest risk of causing damage. Put a dab of anti-seize on the threads when you reassemble for easier future removal.



EDIT: Fudman provided this ZDMack link in that thread, so others benefit:
 

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#109 ·
Googling for the Ford counterhold tool set, I see that the wrench is included with the $15 set, as shown here:



My first question is the SIZE of the wrench (for example, if it's 32mm, it's ideal). It doesn't say in the advertisement above what the wrench size is.

Here's another hit, but it also doesn't say what the wrench size is:


Googling s'more, it appears that Ford has three sizes for the wrench.

For example, see this reference for the Lisle 41800 Fan Clutch Wrench Set for Ford - 4 Piece: which tells us that Ford has two or three sizes.
http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-41800-Clutch-Wrench-Ford/dp/B0002SRGWK
  • Removes fan clutch on most Ford vehicles
  • The double-ended wrench and small holding wrench work on 2.8L, 2.9L, 3.0L, 4.0L and 4.9L engines
  • The larger open-end wrench and larger holding wrench fit 6.9L and 7.3L diesel engines


Here's a KD Tools 3296 Ford Fan Clutch Wrench Set for 6.9- and 7.3-L Engines which says, unfortunately, that the wrench is 48mm, and not the 32mm that we need for the fan clutch nut itself.

  • Use with 1/2" square drive tools and a torque wrench
  • Remove and replace fan assembly on Ford 6.9L and 7.3L engines
  • Wrench openings- Long: 48mm
  • Wrench openings- Short: 83mm


A customer review of a similar tool said "The only problem is the short wrench or pulley holder is too big for the later model 7.3 diesel motors", so from that we can surmise there are at least three sizes in all for the Ford counterhold tool sets.

Even Snap-On sells these tools: YA9325 Set, Ford Fan Clutch Wrench:
Description:
36 and 58mm set. Includes YA9325-1 and YA9325-2. GAS APPLICATIONS: E-Series trucks 4.9L (1984-1991), F-Series trucks 4.9L (1984-1992), Bronco II and Ranger 2.8L (1984-1985), Ranger 2.9L (1986-1992), Aerostar 3.0L (1986-1988), Aerostar and Ranger 4.0L OHV (1990 and later), Explorer 4.0L OHV (1991 and later), Mazda Navajo 4.0L OHV (1991-1994), Mazda B4000 4.0L OHV (1995 and later), Explorer 4.0L V6 SOHC (1997 and later) and Mountaineer 4.0L V6 SOHC (1998 and later).


If any of you own a Ford, would you kindly let us know which of these are most applicable to the BMW E39?
 

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#110 ·
#111 ·
#112 · (Edited)
Yet another method was described today for immobilizing the water pump pulley while removing the fan clutch:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > AUX Fan or AUX Fan Resistor

A tennis ball!

... Previously I used a tennis ball to jam the water pump pulley and the belt in order to loosen the fan clutch with a 32mm wrench ...

http://www.discoweb.org/forums/showthread.php?t=32746It works well in a rover v8, which has more space between the engine and the pulley than does the E39, so it is pretty easy to feed the ball in between the pulley and the belt right at the center. ... but have to place the tennis ball in the perfect position ...

I learned the tennis ball trick from Discoweb:
http://www.discoweb.org/forums/showthread.php?t=32746
discoweb said:
Apparently you can wedge an old deflated tennis ball in between the pulley and the belt on the correct side to stop it turning and then using the correct special tool....never tried it myself yet, but met a guy who's used the method for years!
But I was in a rush today, and just used a BIG flat head screwdriver, placed the tip on close to the edge of the fan clutch nuts and nailed it with a BIG hammer - and it popped right out!

The attached pic is the scaled down version of how I place the screwdriver on the nut
 
#113 ·
Water pump pulley tool M54

I appreciate all the effort everyone puts into this forum. Thanks.

As for pulley holding tool, I've never had one. Now I have an 03 e39 w/ M54. Vehicle history stated one owner (3 yrs in NY, then they ended up in LA). I bought w/ 45K in 06. Now 120K and needed more than std attention.

Apparently all that time wherever has really corroded some stuff up. (Rear disks frozen to hubs; will deal with that later). But pump pulley fan nut was incredibly frozen. I started to think "Maybe I've had a stoke and spazzed out and am just turning it the wrong way..." 3 days of PB blaster, large applied forces, and tears (As in from my eye; lol). Thought I was gonna have to buy a tool, didn't have time to wait. Tried the prybar trick (has always worked in past) and it only succeded in BUSTING the belt pulley AS THE M6 bolts BENT under pressur and craked the plastic pulley! WTF and plenty of bad words.

So today I was going to make a tool like you all had drawn and got to thinking "All the pressure on the tool is on a 'clockwise' nut" so I drilled ONE hole and threaded one of the good M6 bolts thru it (center of hole - 1/4" drill bit - was approx 3/8" from bottom of piece of flat stock) and the 2" to the end of the bar was plain. The nut held pressure on LOTS of material, and open end-rested on top of pulley shaft (where you all had the debate about the size of the semi-circle). The other end (18" flat stock) I rested on a wood block where the air filter normally sits. Two of the M6's are STILL in the pulley; bent to hell.

I was sort of shocked how little force it finally took to bust off finally.

So hopefully in next few days I'll get VANOS seals, CCV junk, water pump, thermostat, going with new radiator (another cheap plastic replacement OEM; - this one lasted 9 yrs. Don't have 7bills for an all AL), fuel filter, new hoses (old ones only 3 yrs, but why risk it) and whatever else I ordered. Rebuilt alternator today.

(/aside Saw somewhere on here 'The small rear bearing is usually okay'; not in my case. It makes noise spinning by hand. Of course, this air cooled alt is poor design. Needs a piece of screen over intake port to keep debris out. I had wasps, leaves, dirt caked on, bird feathers and tumbleweek sticks all cramed in the back of the housing. /endaside)
 
#115 ·
"All the pressure on the tool is on a 'clockwise' nut"
Interesting observation.

I drilled ONE [¼"] hole [in 18" long steel stock] (where the center of the ¼" hole was approximately 3/8" from the bottom of the flat stock and 2" from the end) and then threaded one of the good M6 bolts thru it
I'm having trouble visualizing this tool, and how a bolt on the end of it held the water pump pulley in place... but your novel invention appears to be such a well-engineered approach that it's a shame not to have a picture of the resulting tool!
 
#114 ·
The attached document contain the drawing w exact dimension to scale.
Print the PDF (link below) using direction in document and use as a template to build your own tool.
No need to measure in metric or English just print, cut and use as a template
When u print from PDF make sure you select none for page scaling.
Thanks
Mhnd

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=308694&d=1326903921
 
#116 · (Edited)
The attached document contains the CAD drawing with the exact dimensions to scale.
Thank you very much for creating and posting this wonderful CAD drawing for others to simply draw out on a flat piece of 4mm thick steel stock!
- Fan Clutch removal tool Scale Template print.pdf

So that everyone can easily find it, I uploaded it to post #61 of the bestlinks thread, using a keyword-rich naming convention so that various search terms will find it in the future, long after we're gone.
 
#117 ·
#118 ·

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#119 ·
For the record, some folks must be buying $50 wrenches for their cooling system overhauls!

I noticed this wrench is going for $55 and I just had to laugh. Guess it was made by Sasquatch himself coated in God's saliva.
 
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