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Hood cable failure point / how to open hood manually upon cable failure

176K views 77 replies 39 participants last post by  farhadtmu 
#1 · (Edited)
Today's issue: hood cable failure after messing with the HID bulbs in the headlights.

These pictures show a common location for hood cable failure. In my case, the clamp at the end of the cable sleeve broke the plastic outer sleeving behind it and slid up the metal inner sleeve, which reduced its ability to provide resistance to actually pull the cable.

These videos and pictures show how to pop open the hood latches manually upon cable failure.

These pictures show how to replace the rear hood Bowden cable and hood lever bracket.
 
#31 ·
I tried doing that on both sides. Removed the wheels, removed the windscreen washer container but above that is a metal plate and bar as well as the air filter box (this is on the driver's side). On the passenger side I found what looked like a hydraulic pump right inside the plastic cover and above that the second air filter box (got one on each side of the engine compartment with my 40d engine).

Tried wiggling my arm, hand and fingers around the parts that I was unable to move or take out but reaching the latches was a no go...

So unfortunatly I don't seem to have the same access from below on my V8 diesel as you have on your straight-6 diesel... :(
 
#33 ·
I had the same problem hamilton, in that Keif's awesome post didn't work for my 750Li. Unfortunately, I don't think you will not be able to remove the the headlight without opening the hood. I removed my bumper and headlight to replace my cables after an INDY got it open for me. He charged one hour labor, but said that it took longer and would charge more in the future for 750's. He was not able to release my latches but he was able to take a long pair of pliers to reach the cable leading to the first latch. He yanked it real hard to release the first latch and in doing so it released the second latch in the system as well. I do think that it is worth a try to pull the cable iside the car after taking off the bonnet because of the reason your hood may be unable to open. It may just be lodged in the cords. Hope this helps, good luck.
 
#34 ·
That yanking on the cable procedure was the thing that usually ended up being the easiest, but I think I tore up the connectors a little more doing it; fortunately on the 745's you can reach up and push the latch lever over. If someone can bring me a 750, I'd be happy to check one out though!
 
#35 · (Edited)
Finally got the hood open! :D

Following Keif's procedure for removing the handle and covers inside the car to get to the cable itself and then pulling on it with a set of pliers managed to release the latches and get the hood open! :thumbup:

But the problem that caused the hood to get stuck turned out to be exactly the same problem Keif had in that the plastic stop for the cable sheath was broken so the metal sheath had been pulled along with the cable.
So now I just have to order a new cable and bracket. But at least now I can drive the car without any worries that the battery charger or any of its wires I had under the hood will cause a catastrophic engine failure. :)
 
#36 ·
Congrats!
 
#38 ·
Hood Cable Replacment 2006 750LI

I took the challenge of replacing my cables after the hood would not open. As noted a few post prior (4realGuy) the 06 750LI is much different than the 745 and in my opinion there is no way to open a hood that has damaged cables on that car without taking to the shop. My luck was that the damage was the bracket located within the interior as noted by Keif's post. I was able to pull the cable with a needle nose and viola! the hood opened. Now I am not sure about anyone else with a 750 but I had to remove the entire front bumper and cover parts in the engine compartment to get to the cabling system and even then the work space was a bit tight.

At the end of the day I have three new cables and a bracket and handle and hope to never need replacement again!

Thanks Keif and 4realGuy for your post they were extremely helpful. :):):thumbup:
 
#39 ·
hey keif, i have an 05 745Li. i cant open my hood at all. When i pull the lever from the inside there is no initial pop and the latch in the grill pulls out with no effect. I followed your instructions on the video with no luck at all. i could see the wire and could not find the actual latch you were showing in the video. i even tried taking pair of pliers and pull on the actual cord and that did nothing either. im stumped... and ideas?
 
#40 ·
Thanks for the awesome directions and photos, Keif !!!

Replaced my cable and inside bracket with no probs and now it works like a charm.

One word of advice to anyone about to do this. Don't bother trying to open the hood from the outside. As Keif mentions, your inside bracket is likely worn anyway so you should just start on the inside. After struggling to open my hood from the outside for several hours to no avail, I took apart the inside and after separating the cable from the lever bracket I was able to just pull the cable with pliers and pop the hood right up. Also ordered parts from Maximillian with priority shipping and it took ELEVEN DAYS for them to arrive. I'd try somewhere else.
 
#42 · (Edited)
When you are standing in front of the car, facing the grille, use a screwdriver or wrench or something in the right kidney grille to push the latch itself to the lower left. (uploading video now to one of the hood cable failure picture sets of mine)

Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Bimmer App
 
#48 ·
If it doesn't work by yanking from the bonnet inside, you'll have to get some really extra long needle nose pliers to reach the cable leading to the first latch and pull till it pops.
 
#45 ·
Hi,

My hood release latch failed on me and now I can't open the hood. When I pull it nothing happens. I think I yanked the wire due to wear and tear. I tried to read Kief's thread about fixing it, but I'm confused about how I can open the hood in the first place.

Do I:

-remove driver side front grill and reach in?
-or remove the driver side lower panel and the little opening in front of the tire and reach in?
-or do I remove the latch from it's screw and pull on the wire manually from inside?

Please help,
Thank you..
 
#46 ·
Ok, I was not able to open the hood by disassembling the latch lever from the driver seat. I then pulled the cable with pliers and it popped the hood. I open the plastic enclosure holding the two wires together and found a broken plastic peace which I assume was holding the wire coming from inside the car.

I will replace the plastic, but do you guys think I should also replace the wire(s)?
 

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#53 ·
So after a couple of days taking my car apart i'm finally to the hood release cable..anyone know what tool i need to reach the inside of the cable through these tiny cutouts?

 
#57 ·
Hood Bonnet cable failure E65 RHD 730d

I thought it worth posting on my efforts to release the bonnet (hood for you State Siders) on my 2003 Right Hand Drive 730d.

Keif's photos, videos and thread were the key along with pictures of the latch mechanism. Thanks heaps.

The drivers side latch is most easily reached via a ~4" oval shaped hole in a black pressed steel panel below the latch. However on my 7 the hole is filled with the air intake so access is hard.
The panel with the oval hole also has a much smaller oblong hole higher up directly behind the latch. By putting a finger in the oblong hole and reaching down I could move but not release the latch arm into which the cables terminate. You can feel the cable going from the drivers side to passenger side latch as well.
By pressuring the cable through the oblong hole with a screwdriver, or something, you can trip the passenger side latch. Half the job done!
With a combination of finger through the oblong hole and a hook made out of a coat hanger wiggled in from the headlamp side I was able to trip the drivers side latch. Not easy! Study images of the latch mechanism to design the hook which is inserted under the cable bracket on the side of the latch. You can then feel and align the hook on the latch arm with your finger stuck in the oblong hole. Then simultaneously push the latch arm with your finger tip through oblong hole, pull on wire hook and lift and wriggle bonnet. Success at last!

Now for the mistakes I made.

Take notice if the opening mechanism starts clicking or the travel gets longer. You really don't want to do this job.

This is a two person job. One person pulling the cable and the other lifting the bonnet.

The first time it does not open it should be possible to open it by gently pulling on the cable while simultaneously lifting. Make good use of the opportunity should you get it open easily!

Do not force it, as I did, and pull the cable end through the latch arm fitting. New latch required.

As Keif says, the real issue is the plastic bracket in the drivers footwell. Check it and replace it if necessary!

I hope this helps somebody and thanks to the others on here for relaying their triumphs and tribulations.

G
 
#58 ·
I thought it worth posting on my efforts to release the bonnet (hood for you State Siders) on my 2003 Right Hand Drive 730d.

Keif's photos, videos and thread were the key along with pictures of the latch mechanism. Thanks heaps.

The drivers side latch is most easily reached via a ~4" oval shaped hole in a black pressed steel panel below the latch. However on my 7 the hole is filled with the air intake so access is hard.
The panel with the oval hole also has a much smaller oblong hole higher up directly behind the latch. By putting a finger in the oblong hole and reaching down I could move but not release the latch arm into which the cables terminate. You can feel the cable going from the drivers side to passenger side latch as well.
By pressuring the cable through the oblong hole with a screwdriver, or something, you can trip the passenger side latch. Half the job done!
With a combination of finger through the oblong hole and a hook made out of a coat hanger wiggled in from the headlamp side I was able to trip the drivers side latch. Not easy! Study images of the latch mechanism to design the hook which is inserted under the cable bracket on the side of the latch. You can then feel and align the hook on the latch arm with your finger stuck in the oblong hole. Then simultaneously push the latch arm with your finger tip through oblong hole, pull on wire hook and lift and wriggle bonnet. Success at last!

Now for the mistakes I made.

Take notice if the opening mechanism starts clicking or the travel gets longer. You really don't want to do this job.

This is a two person job. One person pulling the cable and the other lifting the bonnet.

The first time it does not open it should be possible to open it by gently pulling on the cable while simultaneously lifting. Make good use of the opportunity should you get it open easily!

Do not force it, as I did, and pull the cable end through the latch arm fitting. New latch required.

As Keif says, the real issue is the plastic bracket in the drivers footwell. Check it and replace it if necessary!

I hope this helps somebody and thanks to the others on here for relaying their triumphs and tribulations.

G
I fixed mine, had to replace both locks and now everything works fine. I had to pull my cable with some pliers and pull it really hard for it to open and it did, took me forever and it was a pain but I got it.
 
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