So since last week I have been applying lubricant daily to help loosen up the crankshaft bolt in order to remove the cover and replace the broken pieces to get my car running again - see NIGHTMARE post a few weeks back if your really interested
Up to this point i have broken one breaker bar and used enough foul language to make my kids think the devil is inside me ALL TO NO AVAIL!!!
So before I start heating things up literally I wanted to ask if anyone has any advice to get the @#$% thing to move
Thanks for reading and hopefully someone has a trick :thumbup:
I don't have the trick, but I typed /crankshaft f3 in the bestlinks and this came up ... which might help ...
- How to remove the crankshaft pulley (1) & how to make your own BMW crankshaft holder tool (1) & how to remove the BMW E39 540i V8 waterpump without removing the crankshaft pulley (1) (2) (3)
I didn't find the reference thread all that helpful.
But, are you perchance using a tool like this one?
Did you find it helpful? (probably not).
BTW, running an E39-only title-only search for "crankshaft nut", unfortunately, finds only your thread.
It finds nothing for the E38.
But, it found stuff on other forums, which I posted to the canonical thread.
Other than making / buying a tool to help and heat I have tried most of the others. Out of gas for the oxy acetylene so might have to spend my time tomorrow planning the next attack
Quite a few have tried, but usually noone of the 1/2" impacts got enough power to remove that. Sure a 1" impact would take it of easy, but usually a DIYer won't have those.
Have you tried this? https://youtu.be/7G-adEVjfWI
I have also read about a similar technique but rolling the car downhill in gear to break the bolt free. Of course you would have to tow it back to your garage afterwards ;-)
Just to be clear, I have never tried these procedures myself! Good luck!
Maybe I was just lucky, but it wasn't really a bad for me at all. I made a holding tool (five holes in a ring with a rod welded securely on) and used a 3/4" john deere breaker bar. Used two 6 foot steel pipes as breaker bars and it came right out. Without using a holding tool I have no idea how I would have done it.
Ah, nevermind.
I found these two pictures separately, which explain that the picture above.
With mental extrapolation, I can surmise that what is missing are the "pins" that go in the pulley holes....
Presumably, the tool is used to hold the engine from spinning when you try to remove the bolt.
Is your problem that the bolt is stuck?
Or that the engine is still spinning when you try to spin off the bolt?
So another day spent trying to spin that dang thing off with the tools on hand and yet another point for the nut
SCORECARD
Nut - 15 + and one bent allen key
Me - 0
I haven't tried the starter trick yet as the entire front of the car is torn off with battery disconnected. At this point I am going to see about a 3/4 breaker bar and order the proper holding tools from pelican TOMORROW
on a side note : ever notice that when you hit a speed bump during a build and you start thinking about options - things like V10 and such start to sound more intriguing and intriguing every second :bigpimp:
I'm also confused since, when I searched for pictures, I didn't see a NUT but a bolt.
Also, it's not clear to me that the engine isn't spinning when the OP is trying to spin the bolt, so, my first guess is that the OP need only lock the engine down in place.
I noticed that only takes a metal angle iron, hacked out so that the bolt head fits over it, with two holes drilled in it to accompany a bolt sunk into the crankshaft pulley.
One other related question:
Does the I6 have a similar issue?
Shaft lock pin for doing timing chain guides or other engine work. then get a 3/4" breaker bar from hf...put a 6 pt impact socket 3/4 drive and ger a 4' piece of 1.5" cast iron pipe...lock it down...it'll come right out...
A tdc lock pin but without a crank holder tool like you posted you can risk bending the crankshaft sprocket, the dealer sells a solid steel pin for $30. I broke mine loose and luckily didn't bend my crank sprocket some people have, I used the $150 torque wrench from Canadian tire that maxes out at around 250 lb did a couple hard pulls leveraging the wrench standing beside the passenger side of the car and it came loose, be carful if you don't use the crank hold people. (M62/TU) V8
Based on the video that someone had posted above, isn't the real problem with a beefy impact wrench the lack of room to access the bolt head from head on?
And, isn't the secondary problem, if you use a typical wrench from the side (with or without leverage extensions), that the engine will spin?
I'm still not sure from the responses whether the OP's problem is that the engine is spinning or that the bolt is on too tightly (or even if it's being turned the correct direction).
So, I'd want to know, by way of clarification:
a) Is the engine being locked somehow? (if so, how?)
b) Is there room for an impact wrench? (what size is available?)
c) What direction is the OP turning the bolt head?
PS: I would never use my torque wrench to break a bolt free!
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