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M54 vacuum tubing ... what diameter ... what brand ... what material ... what length?

160K views 119 replies 21 participants last post by  shalang 
#1 · (Edited)
I'm tracking down a persistent lean condition and am at the point where I need to replace the set of vacuum hoses on my M54 engine ...

Q1: Does a complete vacuum hose kit exist?

I've never bought vacuum hoses before ...

Q2: Should we buy only the BMW part number or will your basic auto-parts store vacuum hose do (or should we seek a certain brand and/or material)?

For example, today, this hose literally crumbled in my hands as I inspected it for leaks:
 

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#2 ·
I'm going to guess we need about a foot of the thinner vacuum hose, and at least a half-foot of the thicker vacuum hose ... and maybe even a foot or so of the heater hose ... shown in this picture ...

Q: Do you have advice as to what size (OD/ID? length?) and material to purchase to replace all the vacuum hoses in the M54 engine bay?

 

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#3 ·
For the vacuum hoses above, it would be nice if you guys can let me know if auto-parts store hoses are OK (and what size/material to buy).

In addition, I found what 'appears' to be a crack in the lower fitting of the main intake tube ... which ... for now ... I temporarily taped with electrical tape ... until I figure what to do about it.

 

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#10 · (Edited)
Take a sample of the hose you need to your local auto parts store they will sell you what you need.
That was actually (much) harder to accomplish than it at first seems!

First, I went to Autozone. In the parking lot, I removed the vacuum hoses. I had to destroy them to get them off ... but ... in the parking lot of the auto parts store, I hadn't yet realized I had reached an impasse.

Unfortunately, Autozone did NOT have any right-sized vacuum hoses in stock. Neither did their sister store (by way of phone call). Autozone 'did' have fuel and heating system hoses; but not vacuum hoses - which he tried to sell me - but I was unsure so I passed on the offer.

Now I was stuck with no hose on the SAS valve, and no hoses on the F-connector after the MAF in the air intake tubing. The Autozone guy said the engine wouldn't run, but it did.

I then drove to a couple of hardware stores; they had 'generic' rubber hoses; but I didn't want to risk the wrong material - since it didn't say 'vacuum' hose.

Finally, I bought the closest thing I could find at O'Reilly's.

BTW, I had these codes, in this order, when I arrived at Autozone:

  • SET:
    • P0300 BMW 62 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
    • P1353 BMW 243, Misfire Cylinder 6 with Fuel Cut-Off
    • P1085 BMW 203, Fuel Control Limit Mixture Too Lean (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
    • P1351 BMW 242, Misfire Cylinder 5 with Fuel Cut-Off
    • P0171 BMW 227, System Too Lean (Bank 1)
    • P0174 BMW 228, System Too Lean (Bank 2)
  • PENDING:
    • P0300 BMW 62 Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
After clearing them, and driving about 5 miles to O'Reilly's with no SAS or F-connector hoses, I had the following:

  • SET:
    • P0171 BMW 227, System Too Lean (Bank 1)
    • P0174 BMW 228, System Too Lean (Bank 2)
  • PENDING:
    • P1083 BMW 202, Fuel Control Limit Mixture Too Lean (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
    • P1085 BMW 203, Fuel Control Limit Mixture Too Lean (Bank 2 Sensor 1)
Getting tired of driving around without any vacuum hoses connected, I bought the following hoses. Note: I found the vacuum cap deteriorated, so I added that to the mix after the fact.

  • CRP P3340 Thermoid Windshield Washer & Vacuum Tubing
    • $3.49 + 8.75% tax for 6 feet of 5/32" vacuum tubing
  • GAT 27053 bulk vacuum tubing
    • $1.29 + 8.75% tax for 1 foot of 3/8" vacuum tubing
  • MTM 41050 Assorted Vacuum Caps
    • $4.99 + 8.75% tax for a half-dozen variously sized caps
In hindsight, I 'should' have checked with the dealer to see what they had in stock because, at this point, I have very little confidence that I bought the right rubber hoses.

Following up, after driving another dozen miles or so, the only code I had was a P0174 pending ... so I'm not out of the woods just yet! :)

 

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#5 ·
I'm tracking down a persistent lean condition and am at the point where I need to replace the set of vacuum hoses on my M54 engine ...

Q1: Does a complete vacuum hose kit exist?

I've never bought vacuum hoses before ...

Q2: Should we buy only the BMW part number or will your basic auto-parts store vacuum hose do (or should we seek a certain brand and/or material)?

For example, I this hose literally crumbled in my hands today:
I replaced that same hose when doing the VANOS job, just because it cracked open from bumping it, in basically the same spot as yours. I took the old one in, and the guy at Autozone looked at how small the piece was and just gave me some replacement hose for free. If your doing a whole bunch, you probably won't be that lucky.
 
#6 ·
You need to go back behind the intake on the driverside and replace the hose's back there as well. One of the hoses go to the one that has cracked on your sas valve in your pic--another goes to a valve behind the intake, if the one in the pic is bad, you can bet the one behind the intake is also. You will need to remove the cabinair duct on that side and a small mirror and flashlight to see whats going on back there. While there check the vacuum caps that are on the back of the intake also, they can fail with all the heat that accumalated back there.
 
#15 · (Edited)
check the vacuum caps that are on the back of the intake also, they can fail with all the heat that accumulated back there.
I'm very unfamiliar with this part of the M54 engine ...

I only saw one vacuum cap; it was on the driver's side of the engine, at the top rear of the engine; and, just as you said, it was in sad shape; so I replaced it as shown below.

Q1: What was that vacuum cap capping anyway?


Q2: I only found one; did I miss any other vacuum caps?

Note: We need to itemize all the vacuum hoses & caps so the next person doesn't have to guess wrong, like I did.



Unfortunately, the Realoem diagram doesn't show what the part number or size is for the vacuum cap:
- Engine => Vacuum control => AIR PUMP F VACUUM CONTROL

 

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#11 ·
#12 · (Edited)
For hose from fuel filter:
VACUUM HOSE BLACK 3,5X1,8 (5/32 is close)
Wow. I appreciate your checking up for me. I hope to leverage this to others with the M54 engine, so your effort won't be wasted.

Also, I had not realized this was a fuel-filter hose (since it 'seems' to come from the engine to the F connector).

Here is a picture of the two hoses (old and new) side by side. There 'are' markings on the old hose; but I don't know what they indicate:



For SAS valve
3.3mm hose x length (1/4" is close fit)
04 VACUUM HOSE BLACK 3,3X1,75
04 VACUUM HOSE BLACK 3,3X1,8
From your research, I can see I made a mistake.

The SAS valve flexible rubber hose (which broke in half in my hands) went about 4 inches over to a harder thinner more rigid 'plastic' hose (called the "vacuum pipe"), which also broke at the tip (inside the flexible rubber hose).



Looking at the realoem diagram, I see now that the thinner more rigid "vacuum pipe" is what I broke; and, I can see that I 'missed' a hose at the other end of that vacuum pipe!
 

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#16 ·
Together, let's attempt to create a parts list, for others to more easily benefit from.

Unfortunately, the Realoem SAS diagram brings up more questions than it answers.

Q1: What does a hose measurement of 3.3X1.75 or 3.3X1.8 mean?
(Is that the OD & ID in millimeters? Where is the length written?)

Q2: Why were two different hose sizes for #04 (i.e., 3.3X1.75 & 3.3X1.8) replaced with a single hose of undetermined size (i.e., #04 11657803732).
Note: The same phenomenon happened to hose #07.

Q3: What is the part number & size for #9, the vacuum cap?

Q4: Given these strange workings, is Realoem actually correct in giving the same part number for the two hoses listed as #4 and the two additional hoses listed as #7?

Notwithstanding those questions, for others to benefit, here's the best guess I can come up with at a vacuum hose parts list for the SAP system:

  • 1st piece: From the SAS valve to thin plastic pipe (size 3.3X1.75 or 3.3X1.8 or 3.3X1.8?)
  • 2nd piece: From the thin plastic pipe to the electrical valve (size 3.3X1.75 or 3.3X1.8 or 3.3X1.8?)
    • 04 VACUUM HOSE BLACK ? 11657803732 $16.43
  • 3rd piece: The thin rigid plastic pipe along the passenger side of the engine (size unknown?)
    • 03 VACUUM PIPE 1 11727574490 $27.94
  • 4th piece: From the electrical valve to non-return valve (size unknown?)
  • 5th piece: From the non-return valve to the engine (size unknown?)
    • 07 VACUUM HOSE BLACK ? 11657803732 $16.43
  • 6th piece: Vacuum cap on the driver side of the engine rear (size unknown?)
To the tribe: Would others who know much more than I do please flesh out the unknowns so that we can come up with a parts list for others to easily follow in our footsteps?
 
#17 ·
I don't understand the dilemma...
Just buy the OEM replacement hoses.
No guess work, no measuring....
And, the OEM replacement hoses are cheap, and can be found at the dealer, or a good vendor.
If you want to create a thread about finding specific vacuum leak area, great...
But,....
 
#18 · (Edited)
the OEM replacement hoses are cheap, and can be found at the dealer, or a good vendor
Hmmm.... that may work ... but if the nominal prices in Realoem are any indication, it will cost three hundred dollars to replace all the vacuum hoses at Realoem prices. Double and even triple that if my experience at the Silicon Valley BMW dealerships (San Jose, Mountainview, Fremont) are any example.

Just the five tiny SAS-related hoses would cost $61 + about six dollars tax at Realoem nominal prices shown in the diagram below:

Then add $25 nominal dollars plus $2.50 tax for the two 'sucking jet pump' vacuum hoses, as shown in the diagram below:

And then add $92 plus $9 tax for the ccv-related hoses as shown in the diagram below:

Then add $56 + $5 tax for the two fuel tank breather lines (i.e., the big vacuum hose connected to the MAF-area F connector) as shown in the diagram below:

Add another $40 + $4 tax for the two fuel filter related vacuum lines (i.e., the small vacuum hose connected to the MAF-area F connector) as shown in the diagram below:

Without even adding up whatever inevitable hoses I missed ... the net is ... a whoppingly huge $300 dollars at Realoem nominal prices to replace just the vacuum hoses that I can find myself.

My three Silicon Valley BMW dealers (San Jose, Fremont, & Mountainview) typically charge twice to three times the Realoem prices ... so ... that's between five hundred and a thousand dollars just to replace the vacuum hoses that I've identified - for just the hoses!

Jason: I may have missed something big here (and it wouldn't be the first time).

Please explain:
Q: How could replacing just these hoses at these nominal prices possibly be a good deal at the BMW dealer?
 
#20 · (Edited)
The reason is you also provided the pic with the broken rubber hose. Probably these 2 hoses are your problem.
Oh. OK. Well, even 'those' #4 & #7 hoses in red below are about $35 ($16.43 + $16.43 + about $3) tax at nominal Realoem prices.

I can't imagine my local BMW dealers (San Jose, Fremont, & Mountainview) not charging way MORE than that $35 for just those hoses.

So, I can't see the solution being the dealer in any case; but I'll let others answer that because I'd be perfectly happy if dealer math actually worked out (as it does for the wiper blade refills for most of you, for example).

I've tried to color all the necessary replacement hoses in the diagrams below.

What M54 vacuum hoses are we missing?




 

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#21 ·
For the record, I added up the cost of the hoses over here just now:
- Might we be able to list, with pics (realoem diagrams ok) of ALL E39 vacuum lines?

To that end, here is, as far as I can construct, the list of those generic vacuum hoses above:

Engine => Vacuum control => AIR PUMP F VACUUM CONTROL

  • 04 VACUUM HOSE BLACK 3.3X1.8 11657803732 $16.43 (two pieces)
  • 03 VACUUM PIPE 1 11727574490 $27.94 (one piece)
  • 07 VACUUM HOSE BLACK 3.3X1.8 11657803732 $16.43 (two pieces)
  • 09 VACUUM CAP (no part number shown)
Fuel Preparation System => Fuel Supply => Fuel filter, pressure regulator

  • 13 VACUUM HOSE BLACK 3,5X1,8 11727545323 $14.82
  • 11 Hose 1 13321437801 $24.87
Engine => Vacuum control => Vacuum control - engine

  • 02 Hose elbow 1 11617503666 $8.17
  • 03 Hose elbow 1 11617547582 $17.25
Fuel Preparation System => Fuel injection system => FUEL TANK BREATHER VALVE

  • 03 fuel tank breather line 1 13907557924 $27.77
  • 04 fuel tank breather line 1 13907504303 $27.77
Engine => Cylinder Head => Crankcase-Ventilation/oil separator

  • 02 Vent pipe 1 11611432559 $25.73
  • 03 Connecting line 1 11617504535 $33.87
  • 04 Vent hose 1 11157532649 $15.37
  • 06 VACUUM HOSE BLACK 3,5X1,8 ? 11727545323 $14.82 (not on all E39s)
  • 07 Return pipe 1 11617504536 $33.87
Total vacuum hose nominal cost sans CCV system = $186.45 (assuming $5 for the vacuum cap); $310.11 if you add the CCV hoses; and $367.74 if you add the CCV valve (plus 8.75% sales tax).

QUESTION: Are there any 'other' M54 vacuum hoses that we missed?
 
#23 · (Edited)
Thanks for clarifying. That means my prior hose-size calculations are wrong (since I had assumed it was ODxID as shown in red and blue below.

So a 3.5mm ID is in between 1/8" and 9/64" as shown in orange below.

Going to the autoparts store to mix & match still netted me the wrong size (5/32" instead of 1/8"; but at least the mistake isn't as bad as I first had feared.

Given the ID of 3.5mm, would you agree that the 'right' commonly available American-sized vacuum hose would be 1/8" ID? (and not the 5/32" that the auto parts store matched up for me)

 

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#24 ·
Bluebee. Poolman mentioned the 3.5 x 1.8 mm hoses from the dealer, are the updated part now, with a braid around them to protect the hose from heat, much like some O2 sensors have their electric wires protected - incidentally I replaced one of those "protected" wired O2 sensors from a different car I have last week, and the wires looked in pristine shape. Not sure if the rubber hose itself has been "updated", but BMW aknowledged that these hoses get heat damage in time. If I were you I would stick with the updated OEM part. I would also search (which you probably did) and find a cheaper alternative than the dealer. I purchase from the dealer when I'm in a bind, and yes the prices are horrendous.
But I am not sure you need to change ALL the rubber hoses you mentioned.
"Heat stroke" affected hoses are those skinny vacuum rubber lines.
The CCV rubber lines usually fail together with the CCV. In the CCV system, you can get "burned" with a higher gas consumption when the CCV clogs up or if the oil passage in the dipstick is clogged.
The rubber hoses that service the fuel lines (vacuum to fuel pressure regulator and fuel breather) are not in a hot environment. They can crack in time, but those fail rarely. The lines that service the jet pump - I don't know - honestly I saw the jet pump failing once in a while, but not the rubbers.

As a side note, when I changed the fuel filter, I had a hard time to replace the rubber lines - they got hardened, and they were hard to cut even with a utility knife (I had to make sure I don't nick the metal pipes or my hand). And I remeber I had to buy the hose by meter, and was not a bank breaker. You then have to cut it for the length you need and replace it. So it's not that p/n (11657803732) multiplied by 2.
Cheers
 
#26 · (Edited)
I used 1/8" tubing ... I used a litle dab of o-ring lube
That's a great idea!

The best the auto parts stores could do for me was the too-large 5/32" ID "Windshield Washer & Vacuum Tubing" ... so I'm beginning to be convinced we need to find a MAIL ORDER supplier of a few feet of this stuff.

It seems we need:

  • About 3 feet of 1/8" ID vacuum tubing (3.5mm ID actual spec)
  • Braided seems to be preferred
  • Silicone seems to be suggested for heat resistance
The question is WHERE to get that as I did not find anything like it at the local Autozone & O'Reilly Auto Parts stores.


You need to go back behind the intake on the driverside and replace the hose's back there as well.
I looked today. Not easy to see that second #4 hose without removing stuff. Nor could I see the #7 hose, which is apparently in the back of the engine.

My first thought is what has to be removed to access those hoses?

Looking in the bestlinks for SAS replacement DIYs:
- SAS (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7)

I find Poolman suggesting a flashlight:
you will need a flashlight and a mirror to see whats going on back there.
And, cn90 has photos from underneath the engine.

Is a light under the engine the best way to get access to replace those two hoses?

BTW, this post #2 says there is yet another 'large plastic" hose not pictured in the secondary air system diagram that needs replacing:

Cheap insurance to replace diverter valve (#1, #2, #8), vacuum hose to it (#4), large plastic 2nd air injection hose to/from 2nd air injection pump(not pictured) as they will prolong the life of your 2nd-ary air injection pump (proper working diaphragm in the diverter valve ensures closing to prevents hot acidic air/gases back into the SAP unit).
Is 'this' 'pressure hose that large plastic hose Jase007 was referring to?
Engine => Exhaust manifold => EMISSION CONTROL-AIR PUMP


I replaced all of my small hoses with the braided type--lasts forever that stuff does.
I didn't realize this was a parts upgrade at the dealer until Doru mentioned it below.

Bluebee. Poolman mentioned the 3.5 x 1.8 mm hoses from the dealer, are the updated part now, with a braid around them to protect the hose from heat


Until you mentioned it, I didn't realize that was what Poolman was talking about.

From this thread, I thought Poolman bought his braided hose at O'Reilly Auto Parts:
-
E39 (1997 - 2003) > What is the Diverter Valve and how to replace it

I used a heavy duty vac hose to replace the hose's back there--bought it by the foot from O'Reilly's
the hose looks like it has threads running through it and is much stronger than the OEM hose material.

It sure would be nice to see a PICTURE of that braided hose - and perhaps a part number (or description) as I couldn't find 'any' braided vacuum hose in the auto parts stores.

All I could find was this braided fuel-injection hose at O'Reillys:


I am not sure you need to change ALL the rubber hoses you mentioned. "Heat stroke" affected hoses are those skinny vacuum rubber lines.
Sounds like a decent plan to first replace the 3.5 mm ID x 1.8 mm thick braided vacuum hoses hoses (which is between 1/8" & 9/64" in inside diameter).

In addition, nobody seemed to have 'silicone' vacuum hose as suggested by 540 M-Sport over here:
the important attribute you need for those hoses is heat resistance...in that instance silicone hose generally works best.
For example, this is all that O'Reillys had for vacuum hose:


Q1: Would someone kindly snap a picture of the OEM updated braided hoses for the team so we can see what it looks like?

Q2: What has to be removed in order to access the SAS hoses in back of the engine (do we access them from underneath)?

Q3: Where can we get a few feet of braided, silicone, 3.5 mm ID (between 1/8" & 9/64") vacuum hose?
 

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#29 ·
BTW, a very weird hose-connection inconsistency has been identified here just now:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > CCV vacuum hose important?

Notice that the ENDED part numbers only, match between the SAS & CCV system diagram; yet the NEW part numbers don't!

Trying to put the puzzle together, I notice what you're intimating by comparing ENDED part numbers between the two diagrams!

Comparing that to the other reputed side, the plot thickens:

Notice only the (color-coded) ENDED part numbers are redundant.

Q: What does this weirdly inconsistent information tell us?
 
#30 ·
On my 2001 530i M54 that nipple on the CCV is capped. I have no idea why the diagram lists a hose there or where that hose would go.

My guess is that the CCV is made to fit both the M54 and an earlier engine that used that to supply vacuum to the CCV. I would also guess that specific vacuum hose was redundant and eliminated on the M54 engine.

The diagram for my engine vacuum control shows two caps on the back of the manifold. I don't know if both are actually capped. I felt one cap which is large, so I'd guess it is the 7mm cap 11611727176. The 3.5mm cap is listed as 11611437560.

I need to replace the smaller hose that comes from the "F" connector. Does anyone know where that hose connects to?
 
#31 · (Edited)
I need to replace the smaller hose that comes from the "F" connector. Does anyone know where that hose connects to?
See this thread for more complete details:
- Correcting the F-connector errors in the realoem diagrams (1)

That small F-connector hose is #13 here which is about a foot (or so) long:


But, these Realoem diagrams STINK at showing you WHERE they actually connect!

The small hose connects from the F connector lower spout to a metal pipe which is secured on the wall just below the shock mounts (under the driver side air filter housing).

Here is my old small hose in place:


Here I am sizing the six feet of O'Reilly Auto Parts vacuum hose by connecting first to the metal pipe and then cutting to fit to the F connector:
- O'Reilly p/n P3340 $3.49 Thermoid Windshield Washer & Vacuum Tubing 5/32" x 6'


Here is the new hose from O'Reilly Auto Parts, now cut and in place on the F connector:


And, to give you a better idea of exactly what it looks like where it connects to the metal pipe, here is a closeup of the connection to item #10 vacuum pipe in the realoem diagram above.

Notice the metal vacuum pipe fits into a C-shaped metal bracket bolted to the side of the engine bay with and easy-to-lose removable rubber sleeve insert for vibration protection:

The reason the tip of the old small hose is frayed is because I was removing the hoses in the O'Reilly parking lot with the lousy screwdriver in the trunk toolkit to bring them inside for sizing.

Here are both hoses in situ on the F connector; notice they're just about the same length:

EDIT: The smaller-length broken hose in this picture is the SAP valve hose on the other side of the engine.
 

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#32 · (Edited)
Where is the SECOND endcap?

The diagram for my engine vacuum control shows two caps on the back of the manifold.
Interesting. I only see one cap in my diagram which caps the port shown in post #9 above.
- Engine => Vacuum control => AIR PUMP F VACUUM CONTROL


I felt one cap which is large, so I'd guess it is the 7mm cap 11611727176. The 3.5mm cap is listed as 11611437560.
I only replaced one endcap because that's all I could find; and even then, since the Realoem diagram doesn't show a size or part number, I don't know if the cap I put on is a cause for my slight vacuum leaks.


You clearly mention a SECOND endcap. What is the location of that second endcap?


Here is what the original endcap looks like, open end:


And here is what the closed end looks like on the original endcap:


It's important we find that second endcap you speak of.
Do you have a photo of it?

If it's in as bad a shape as my one endcap, I need to find it and replace it!
 

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#33 · (Edited)
Thanks for the information about the lower hose. I could tell it went to a metal line that disappears into the abyss of the engine compartment. I just didn't know what was connected to the other end.

I got the numbers for the caps from the engine intake manifold diagram for my 2001 530i. I think they're the same for your car.

Next time I'm at the dealer, I'm going to pick up one of those "F" connectors. It's one of those parts that are prone to breaking and are only available at the dealer. And a clutch pivot pin, too.
 
#34 ·
Thanks for the information about the lower hose. I could tell it went to a metal line that disappears into the abyss of the engine compartment. I just didn't know what was connected to the other end..
Here is another thread showing where that F-connector small hose goes:
- Might we be able to list, with pics (realoem diagrams ok) of ALL E39 vacuum lines?

Once you recognize the parts, you can see the metal tube that the other end of the hose is still connected to has been slipped out of its c-shaped metal bracket (which is bolted to the metal body of the car):
 
#37 ·
Thanks Steve,

By the lack of response, I'm assuming very few people, if any, actually know where the problematic endcaps lie in the E39. Even so, we'll do the best we can with the limited information available.

Based on what we found in post #20 here, out of the two, three, or four endcaps reputed to be in the E39, here's the best I can do so far without additional help:

  • This diagram loosely intimates there is one capped vacuum port:
  • This diagram outright says there are three capped vacuum ports:
    • Engine => Intake manifold => Intake manifold system
    • #15, Cap, D=3,5MM, Qty=2, 11611437560, $3.39 (between 1/8" & 9/64" ID)
      • One of these is probably for the CCV valve vacuum port on the M54
      • The other 'may' be if the M54 does not have an air pump, then it would cap off that vacuum port in the back of the engine where #7 hose would go in the "Air pump F Vacuum Control" diagram.
    • #17, Cap, D=7,0MM, Qty=1, 11611727176, $3.39 (between 17/64" & 19/32")
      • This clearly is the rear vacuum port behind the sucking jet pump on my M54
Note: Searching found a vacuum endcap in the fuel system lines near the exhaust manifold; but that was in other forums and I haven't seen it here so it isn't described yet until someone gives us a better clue.
 
#39 · (Edited)
For the record, Steve is doing a test, for the team described over in this thread just now:
- Where to get M54 metric sized vacuum tubin at a decent price (or what American size)?

...Viton tubing would last longer because it is unaffected by heat and oil.

I ordered and received 5' of the 5119K41 Viton tubing 1/8" ID, 1/4" OD 1/16" wall Shore 60A. It is about as flexible as silicone tubing. I replaced the piece of tubing from the SAP valve to the hard plastic pipe under the oxygen sensor connector. This tubing is a good tight fit for that application that is listed as 3.3mm. Maybe a little tight on the hard tubing, but that's probably good. It also fits well on the lower part of the "F" connector that goes to the FPR, which is listed as 3.5mm tubing.

Looks to me as though 1/8" tubing will work for both 3.3mm and 3.5mm if it is flexible enough.

I'll replace all the 3.3mm and 3.5mm tubing I can find with the Viton tubing and let you know how much tubing I used.
Given that new information, here is the current set of recommendations for E39 vacuum tubing:
  • $7 ===> Norprene,61A (soft), -75°F to +275°F, PN: 51075K22, barbed fittings, 1/8" ID, 1/16" thick, $0.72/ft (minimum length = 10 feet)
  • $21 ==> Viton, Shore 60A (soft), -15°F to +400°F, PN: 5119K41, 1/8" ID, 1/16" thick, $4.19/ft, available length >= 3' = 5 feet)
  • $22 ==> Gum rubber, 45A (very soft), -70°F to +180°F, PN: 5543K41, barbed fittings, 1/8" ID, 1/8" thick, $2.21/ft (minimum length = 10 feet)
  • $55 ===> Viton, Shore 60A (soft), -15°F to +400°F, PN: 5119K48, barbed fittings, 1/8" ID, 1/8" thick, $11/ft, available length >= 3' = 5 feet)
  • Silicone,
PS: I've found out that one-piece tubing is not called 'hose' so my title of this thread is incorrect. I apologize.
 
#40 · (Edited)
Steve reported back to the team!

Here is a summary:

  1. 3 feet of 1/8" ID by 1/8" thick Viton tubing (Shore 60A) was idea; you don't want anything harder than Shore 60A and you can get away with only about six inches shorter in length.
  2. The BMW diagrams for his M54 were wrong on the thin plastic tube on the passenger side connected to the SAP valve and the electric valve; it's not straight; it's actually curved.
  3. Best to slice the old tubing longitudinally with a knife to remove.
Looks like we need a second source for that very thin & long vacuum pipe as the realoem prices are horrendous.

I finished replacing the vacuum tubing between the SAP electric valve and the SAP Valve and the tubing between the lower nipple of the "F" connector and the hard tubing that goes to the FPR. That was all of the vacuum tubing I could find on the topside of my 2001 530i M54.

I used the 1/8" Viton ID tubing with 1/8" thick walls. It was a tight fit on the hard plastic tubes, but workable. I don't think you'd want anything stiffer unless it was just a little larger inside.

I started with 5 feet of tubing, and I had 2.5 feet of tubing left over. I also a short piece where I measured wrong.

It was difficult to remove the old tubing off. I had to cut it off the hard plastic tubing. I found it easiest to split the tubing with a knife and peel it off. The tubing going to the electric valve was hard to reach. You have to work blind. Also, I found that the hard plastic tubing that runs from the SAP valve along the valve cover was curved around the back. It was not two pieces of hard plastic tubing connected with flexible tubing as the diagram seems to show.

The old tubing was intact, but snapped when I tried to pull it off. It was functional, but deteriorating.
In addition, based on this thread, we've updated the locations of the evaporator purge valve vacuum hoses:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > EVAP Purge Valve Flow

 
#41 · (Edited)
Hi. I have been reading this forum since I bought my car (E39 530i, 2001) last summer. The information available on this forum is amazing! I will take my car to a local bmw service next week to get new CCV system, dipstick tube and intake boots replaced. They will also clean the throttle body and ICV. I just cleaned my MAF using CRC air sensor cleaner. I will do the vanos seals next summer.

I have tried to study the car as much as possible. I believe that I found the 3 end caps of my car using a flashlight and a telescope mirror. See the attachment. The largest (with a crack!) should be the part no. 17, and I believe that the two others right behind it are the part no. 15. I will replace these myself next week when I get the caps from the bmw service. In the photo I had already disconnected my DISA for inspection, if you wonder what the thread is. The DISA seemed to be ok after 120 000 km. However, it seems that I need to replace the valve cover gasket and spark plugs soon.
 

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#43 ·
I am glad to be able to contribute in this case! I think the additions that you made to the figure are correct. Just by looking at the photo it seems quite obvious that these are the three caps. I will verify this later when I get the replacement caps and install them. Without the mirror, only the largest cap can be seen when looking from the direction of the MAF. Actually the large cap looked like it was ok until I took the mirror and saw it from behind! I will take a photo of the old removed caps also.
 
#44 ·
When you get a chance please verify that the third vacuum port on your M54 is capped.

On my 2001 530i M54, two of the three ports are capped. The third port has a hose attached that goes to the SAP one-way valve. Another hose runs from the one-way valve to the SAP electric valve which is attached to the SAP valve with a hose, a pipe, and another hose. This is the source of vacuum for the SAP valve.

I've attached a couple of photos that show the caps and hose.



 

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