There has been a bunch of OT threads lately, so i think we should try to keep it all the ot talk in one place. I know the e36 forum rocks, and all the other forums suck big time :bigpimp:, yet we need to stay on topic....
Raise front of car 8-10 inches, start car, heat on full blast hot, remove bleeder screw, remove rad cap, massage top rad hose, keep topping off until bubbles stop.
Also, the car does not need to be cold to bleed it, just be careful not to burn yourself. When I bled mine, I had steam coming out of the bleeder screw, which is what you want.
had my mom sit in the car to rev and keep watch off the needle
i told her where to keep the rpms
she WOTS the car screams in my face I start screaming MOM!!!!!! then she was OHHH! then the rpms stayed at 2
anyways i poured and poured bubbles started comming out till i stopped
i kept pouring and had to dodge coolant coming at face due to the fan flinging it everywhere
now the car isnt overheating and but i heat is blowing cold air until the car is reved high
and the coolant was way too full
while writing this i went to check it again now the coolant went down
and is now sitting 3/4 of the tank (a little higher than the cold mark)
does this sound about right? and continue bleeding?
If your heater still isn't blowing hot, you still have air trapped in there even despite the fact that it's at the 3/4 mark. So yeah, you'll have to continue bleeding until the heater blows hot and the coolant stops going down. Sounds like you're making progress, though.
Also, you don't need to rev the motor at all. Idling is fine.
Meh, I've never been an enormous fan of the MX5s. I'm sure they're fun is shyt to drive, I would just want something a little more not a Mazda (unless it had a rotary engine) if I were going to get a roadster.
then a steady flow of coolant started coming out and flying everywhere heat was blowing out hot air (It was burning hot when i first bled but it is still hot now)
I think they have pretty classic styling. No, they aren't going to win any beauty contests, but I think they're fairly handsome. And of course, any Miata I'd own would have the convertible top removed and a hardtop bolted on.
then a steady flow of coolant started coming out and flying everywhere heat was blowing out hot air (It was burning hot when i first bled but it is still hot now)
Just keep checking it regularly until the coolant level stops going down. Sounds like you have enough coolant in there now to prevent the car from overheating, so that's good. When I did mine, I was able to get it bled pretty easily, but I did keep checking it for days afterward to see if the level dropped.
Just keep checking it regularly until the coolant level stops going down. Sounds like you have enough coolant in there now to prevent the car from overheating, so that's good. When I did mine, I was able to get it bled pretty easily, but I did keep checking it for days afterward to see if the level dropped.
If your heater still isn't blowing hot, you still have air trapped in there even despite the fact that it's at the 3/4 mark. So yeah, you'll have to continue bleeding until the heater blows hot and the coolant stops going down. Sounds like you're making progress, though.
Also, you don't need to rev the motor at all. Idling is fine.
Ok so I got a tail light failure on the OBC. Pulled the bulb and both filaments are still intact. Switched it to the other taillight and it is fine. Something with the tail light? It's really pissing me off.
Connections TO the bulb. Clean the socket, check and clean the harness plug. If that doesn't fix it, start tracing the wire over the wheel well. You may have the dreaded loom failure in the making.
Connections TO the bulb. Clean the socket, check and clean the harness plug. If that doesn't fix it, start tracing the wire over the wheel well. You may have the dreaded loom failure in the making.
Where the insulation gets worn off the wires inside the wiring loom going over the wheel well. I KNOW you've read about it before.
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