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6M views 104K replies 316 participants last post by  tim330i 
#1 ·
There has been a bunch of OT threads lately, so i think we should try to keep it all the ot talk in one place. I know the e36 forum rocks, and all the other forums suck big time :bigpimp:, yet we need to stay on topic....
 
#44,181 ·
Raise front of car 8-10 inches, start car, heat on full blast hot, remove bleeder screw, remove rad cap, massage top rad hose, keep topping off until bubbles stop.

Repeat twice. (At least).
 
#44,183 ·
had my mom sit in the car to rev and keep watch off the needle

i told her where to keep the rpms

she WOTS the car screams in my face I start screaming MOM!!!!!! then she was OHHH! then the rpms stayed at 2


anyways i poured and poured bubbles started comming out till i stopped
i kept pouring and had to dodge coolant coming at face due to the fan flinging it everywhere

now the car isnt overheating and but i heat is blowing cold air until the car is reved high

and the coolant was way too full

while writing this i went to check it again now the coolant went down
and is now sitting 3/4 of the tank (a little higher than the cold mark)

does this sound about right? and continue bleeding?
 
#44,184 · (Edited)
If your heater still isn't blowing hot, you still have air trapped in there even despite the fact that it's at the 3/4 mark. So yeah, you'll have to continue bleeding until the heater blows hot and the coolant stops going down. Sounds like you're making progress, though.

Also, you don't need to rev the motor at all. Idling is fine.

On another note, I WANT:

 
#44,188 ·
Just bled the system again

bubbles came out of the screw

then a steady flow of coolant started coming out and flying everywhere heat was blowing out hot air (It was burning hot when i first bled but it is still hot now)

guess im good now?
Just keep checking it regularly until the coolant level stops going down. Sounds like you have enough coolant in there now to prevent the car from overheating, so that's good. When I did mine, I was able to get it bled pretty easily, but I did keep checking it for days afterward to see if the level dropped.
 
#44,189 ·
Just keep checking it regularly until the coolant level stops going down. Sounds like you have enough coolant in there now to prevent the car from overheating, so that's good. When I did mine, I was able to get it bled pretty easily, but I did keep checking it for days afterward to see if the level dropped.
yeah im gonna test drive it again and check after

the coolant went back to the 3/4 after bleeding as it was the first time

ill probably check it before each drive from paranoia
 
#44,191 ·
I got a truck today. It has a flip switch ignition, push button start, toggle switch security system, and no reverse gear. Guess how much I paid.
 
#44,194 ·
If your heater still isn't blowing hot, you still have air trapped in there even despite the fact that it's at the 3/4 mark. So yeah, you'll have to continue bleeding until the heater blows hot and the coolant stops going down. Sounds like you're making progress, though.

Also, you don't need to rev the motor at all. Idling is fine.

On another note, I WANT:

You WANT........the most girly car ever made? :angel:

I got a truck today. It has a flip switch ignition, push button start, toggle switch security system, and no reverse gear. Guess how much I paid.
$350.
 
#44,199 ·
New with 9k posts? What did you do, hijack Ken's posts while he was sleeping? :rofl:
no, just posts random stuff that nobody reads anyway...:angel:

Franklyn, ya ever hear the saying "hell hath no fury like a woman scorned"? You never know when Amber might pop in here, and then LOOK OUT! :rofl:

(FYI, she DOES read the forum from time to time). :yikes:
ooooohhh......better look out...:eeps:

i cant the t-stat out of the head

and its breaking on me -_- HELP!!!
i always like to get a running start when doing work like this.

and a big hammer makes it easier...

df
 
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