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1991 325i convertible HELP

5K views 6 replies 5 participants last post by  BMWFatherFigure 
#1 ·
Bought the 91 automatic 325i convertible as my first car... looked great and odometer read 63,321 engine seemed fine.. there's about $9,000 in it so far..

-realized odometer didn't work..awesome. no worries I know that the gears melt and need to be replaced

-took it to get trunk lock replaced to fix the brake light that went out..found out there was water in the oil.....1 month after purchasing..
-took it to a shop they recommended down the road..(in/out for a whole year now..) bought march 2011
-replaced engine..
-new coolant hose
-idles weird..
-replaced idle air control valve
-still idles weird..
-did a few oil changes
-started running great!
-obtained an oil leak..
-took to shop..got it back a week later..
-oil leak worsened..as well as transmission started leaking .....
-gave it another week in the shop
-both leaks fixed
-starter driving weird again..transmission shifts odd..
-drove it to work..a/c belt fell off..
-took it back..replaced belt
-still drives rough..turn the a/c on for like 10 minutes and it eats like a quarter tank of my gas...
-also ill be driving with the a/c on and as I let off the gas and coast the car stars..bogging out? Jolting a bit
- a/c not on and ill coast the speedometer needle will rev back up around 35 MPH (about 1.5 rpm) and again at about 25mph (about .5-1 rpm) ???
-it now does it when the a/c isn't even on.... any ideas??
-haven't taken it back yet..
-start the engine and it would idle kind of high until I tap the gas or put in gear...
-gotten worse lately idling high then dropping....eratic....

Basically the mechanic I chose obviously can't handle my car..he has cut some slack $$wise but I'm fed up..

That's just mechanically.... I also replaced the convertible top....
-never leaked
-back window fell through which is when it started leaking..
-bought a new top on eBay for about $180
-took it to upholstery shop the collision (lock guys) recommended ...(mistake)
-paid about $500 for installation
-needed new tension cables and took a while to find metal clasps for the tension cables
-top leaks from front of windows by the visors...
-took it back and the put silicon in the top front to hopefully stop leak
-made it worse!
-haven't taken it back yet..so frustrated..honestly my boyfriend picked the top and he chose vinyl instead of cloth which looks great but probably should've gotten cloth..but the shop should've said hey vinyl wont work especially when they have another BMW like mine in their lot they work on......


Any help??? PLEASE
 
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#2 · (Edited)
I don't know anyone whom has bought a 20+ year old car and does not do any wrenching him/her self. At least buy a Bentley manual and read through it.

Basic things should be done all at once, like replaceing all vacume lines as well as hoses and belts.
just swaping parts without proper diagnost is going to get very expensive.

when engine was swapped, did they even do a timing belt / water pump job? new sparkplugs, rotor, cap, etc ? if not. I don't what to say but inform your self first.

sorry if it sounds condecending. but it don't make scense., like kome on, taking car to shop to install a A/C belt ? please.
 
#4 ·
I would try to check/change your crank position sensor and have your ecu tested. Also check for old cracked power wires for your a/c touching metal or body panels. I've had a couple of similar problems and turned out to be small problems like cracked wires, something old and warn, or bad grounds. Start there then let us know what happens
 
#5 · (Edited)
-yes, i understand i'm going to be "wrenching". i'm 19, its my first car, and i LOVE it.. just looking for tips on how to fix a few things. i'm not touching anything that would be my mechanic's fault. if a ****ing belt fell off right after he worked on it HE will put it back on. i'm not trying to void my warranty on the engine that has had a PROPER diagnostics test and is fine. it's just something small and i was posting everything that i have gone through with this car thus far. thanks but i don't want your input FPORRO unless it's positive and constructive.

-it's idling and driving rough.. idle fluxuates when in park and in drive when stopped.. i've already replaced the IAC valve
-thanks! i appreciate you helping with positive feedback not giving me ****. i am beginning to think it does have something to do electrically..

-- transmission started leaking again a few weeks ago.. my mechanic replaced the rear seal again and it's driving better..still very rough though..no more leaks so far. he also hooked it up to a computer and didn't receive any codes.. also lifters have gotten very noisy..
 
#7 ·
Have to side with fporro on this one. Read the manual and get to understand a little first. Trans leak - same rear seal same place? - sounds like a burr or scratch on the output shaft cutting the seal. Good luck with your car.
 
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