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CCV Replacement on an M54 (E39)

192K views 104 replies 41 participants last post by  Pradeep Gowda 
#1 ·
Many thanx to Aioros, Cn90, Lbert, and others who have written extensively on this topic. Their writeups gave me the courage to attempt this myself. This DIY is specifically for M54 engines (2001-2003), which have not gotten the same attention as the older M52 and have some slight differences in procedure. This procedure is only for replacement of the CCV and hoses, and is specific to the insulated variant. Note: This procedure intentionally minimizes non-essential removal of components (i.e. intake manifold, oil filter housing, etc.). While space and access is difficult, it is not impossible. Removing things like the oil filter housing can improve access. It took me over 8 hours over two days to do this job but I took my time, documented everything, took pictures and was very, very careful. Knowing what I know now and following this procedure, I can probably do it in under 3 hours now. Absolutely NO technical knowledge of BMWs or auto repair experience is required (as I have very little of either). Caution is the key as there are occasional steps where things just don’t go simply or easily. I have developed workarounds for several of those. This procedure simply documents what I did and is for informational purposes only.

Tools
• T-40, T-27 & T-25 Torx
• 6mm, 10mm, & 13mm sockets
• Ratchet -1/4" & 3/8”
• Extension bars, various lengths - 1/4" & 3/8”
• ¼” drive handle
• Small mirror (absolutely necessary!)
• Assorted flat blade screw drivers in different lengths
• Magnetic pick up tool (optional)
• Small blade knife or cutter (for old hoses)
• WD-40

Parts
• 11 61 7 533 400 Pressure Regulating Valve - CCV (insulated)
• 11 61 1 533 398 Vent Pipe (insulated)
• 11 61 7 533 399 Connecting line (insulated)
• 11 61 7 532 629 Vent hose (insulated)
• 11 61 7 504 536 Return Pipe (insulated)
• 11 43 1 740 045 O-Ring, Oil Dip Stick Tube to Oil Pan

I should’ve replaced the throttle body gasket but they didn’t have it in stock and I didn’t want to wait to button her up. Oh well! Note that the RealOEM part #6 vacuum hose is not required. In fact, the connection point on the insulated CCV is capped and hidden under the foam jacket.
Here is what I did:

1. Undo the long spring clip to remove the filter housing cover and and the cabin air filter. Squeeze and remove the small spring clip on the bolt at the front housing support. Remove the sensor connector and then remove the filter housing by pulling forward and store

2. Remove the fuel rail cover by removing the (2) plastic caps and the (2) 10mm bolts underneath the caps. Remove the fuel rail cover and store.

3. Remove the Mass Air Flow sensor (MAF) (Ref. Bentley 130-33) by disconnecting wiring harness to MAF sensor (push down the metal clip and pull the connector). Loosen the hose clamps (6mm or flat blade) between MAF and upper air intake boot and the air filter box. Remove the MAF to give you the space to remove the air filter box (next step).

4. Remove the air filter box assembly. Detach wiring harness behind air filter box
Remove 10mm bolt on air box base. Remove both air filter box and reassemble the MAF and air filter box as a single unit. Note the air filter box can be difficult to remove without removing the MAF because of insufficient space to pull the components apart.

5. Remove upper air intake boot by loosening the hose clamp (6 mm or flat blade). Carefully disconnect the vent hose coming off the top of the upper air intake boot. This took me over 20 minutes of gently prying the elbow off with a screwdriver to avoid damaging the boot. Maybe I should’ve just yanked on it…

6. Remove the lower air intake boot by loosening the two hose clamps. Some DIYs say that you must replace the lower intake boot. I didn’t want to spend the extra $35 so I was careful not to damage it during removal. Access to the second hose clamp screw requires removing a small cable support (10 mm bolt). Note that the boot has a large rubber tab at its base. This tab aligns with guides located on the throttle body port. Align the tab with the guides when reassembling.

7. Remove the oil dipstick guide tube by cutting off CCV hose from the dipstick (it’s much easier than removing it!). Remove the 13mm bolt holding oil dip stick bracket. Disconnect a wiring bundle from the support bracket. Replace the O-ring at its base. No oil will spill as long as the oil pan is not overfilled. Insert a plug (I used tin foil) on the hole to prevent anything from falling in. Clean the guide tube going to the CCV with a flexible rod and clear with compressed air. If you drive in cold weather, you will probably find yellow-white oil condensate (“mayo”) inside this tube. This is why you are changing to the insulated CCV.

8. Remove the wiring harness box by removing (1) 10 mm bolt and (2) 10mm nuts. One of the nuts is located at bottom right of the throttle body, next to one of the throttle body bolts. Use a mirror to view the location. The wiring harness connectors have a metal locking wire clip. Push down and pull on the connector to disconnect. To re-install, insert connector without touching metal clip until you hear it click into place. Several cables leave the front of the wiring box. Disconnect those electrical connectors that terminate toward the front to allow freedom to move the wiring box to the rear. Label all connectors to simplify reassembly. One cable has three connectors, one at the top of the radiator and the other two connectors at the front right of the radiator. Tie the two connectors together with a 24” string before you pull them to get slack. The string is so you can pull them back through when you’re done.

9. Remove the throttle body by removing (4) 10mm bolts on the corners of the throttle body. Move it aside (to the rear) to access the CCV.

10. Remove (2) T-25 screws that hold the CCV in place. Then cut the hoses to allow removal of the CCV. When removing the old hoses from their connection points, it is far easier to simply cut or break the old locking rings with a screwdriver than to try and squeeze the locking rings to remove them. Once the locking rings are broken, simply pull the hose off. You will find most of the hoses to be somewhat brittle, which is why you are replacing them.

11. Warm weather uninsulated CCVs can skip this step I installed the insulated CCV and there is barely room to put it into place due to the foam insulation jacket. Since the connection to the connecting line requires that you rotate the CCV to lock the connection, I decided to modify my insulated CCV by cutting off about 1/8” of the foam jacket on the flat circular disk side of the CCV with a razor. I did not cut through the foam jacket, I just removed enough of the foam so the surface is flat (see photo). This creates enough room to rotate the CCV when in place. This makes a HUGE difference.

12. Installing the connecting line is the most difficult. It requires you to rotate the line about 1/3 turn to lock the line onto the CCV (practice this connection process on the bench). The other hoses use the locking snap connectors that just insert and snap to lock. After trying for over 2 hours to assemble these parts in their location :mad:, I was unsuccessful and decided to modify the locking mechanism. Use a Dremel tool and a sanding cylinder to sand the two retaining ridges on the CCV nozzle smooth from about 1” long to about 1/3 inch long (see photo). This simply reduces the rotation required to lock the connecting line to about 1/8 turn (~45 degrees). Mark the spots with paint where the connecting line aligns with the CCV nozzle to aid in assembly (see photo). Insert the connecting line into the original position from above the intake manifold. Much wiggling and bending of the line is required to get it into place. Once the lower connection is in place, insert the CCV into place. Align the marks, insert the hose into the CCV and rotate the 1/8 turn. This whole process took 10 minutes (vs. over 2 hrs!) with a minimum of effort after modifying the parts! Insert the upper connection line to the engine nozzle until you hear a click. Insert the CCV screws and tighten.

13. Remove the old hoses and install the new return pipe to the top of the engine. The other end attaches to the small branch nozzle at the top of the connecting line. Insert each hose connector onto the connecting nozzle until you hear a click.

14. Remove the old vent pipe and insert the new vent pipe down into the same location. The 90 degree turn is at the top and the angled turn is at the bottom. Align the lower vent pipe connector to the lower CCV nozzle, insert and push until you hear the click. The upper vent pipe connection connects to the valve cover in the same way.

15. Work backwards from Step 9 and it is clear sailing from there. When reconnecting the wiring cables, pull the string to pull the connectors out from the radiator. Be sure to route cables so they are not exposed to the fan. Make sure the right cable goes to the right connector.

16. Prepare the oil dipstick tube by inserting the vent hose onto the branch muzzle on the dip stick tube. The vent hose does not use a locking ring and simply inserts onto the nozzle. When reinstalling the dip stick, you must make sure that the one connector that is attached to the wiring box (all others are cables exiting the wiring box) is disconnected to allow you access to reconnect the upper end of the vent hose to the bottom of the CCV. Insert the hose connector onto the CCV nozzle until it clicks.

When I was done, there were no parts lying around (a good sign). I fired the car up, she purred like always and no CEL lights were lit. A short drive confirmed that I didn’t screw anything up. :thumbup: I don’t notice any difference in the way she runs but there was nothing wrong before the change. Hopefully, I won’t be blowing the black smoke that I had last winter. Hopes this helps someone who does this job on an M54.
 

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#43 ·
Crist another thing I have to get done here!? Does it ever end with these cars? Great write-up, pics and info guys. My cars been consuming a bit of oil lately it seems also so guess I'll need to put this on the "to do" list.
 
#45 · (Edited)
Well, I replaced my CCV finally...
Let just emphasize..... "finally"...
The job was NOT fun.
The ONE electrical plug infront of the Vanos was especially hard to take off.
The old CCV hoses were a pain to take off as well.
I tried to disconnect the old hose without breaking them, but finally gave in after a LONG time, and broke the things!
I did not have to modify the cold weather CCV.
One key thing to do, that will help take off the old hoses, is to take off the air distribution piece on top of the intake manifold!
That will allow you access to the (2) top hose connections, and let you clean the massive filth under there.

And, I found a easy way to connect the small 'S' hose that connects to the air distribution piece from the CCV.
First, you install the cold weather CCV WITH long hose the goes to the front of the valve cover CONNECTED to the CCV.
Then snake the 'S' hose in.
Turn the S hose back so that it is parallel the ground, which then allows you to twist connect to the CCV.
Turn the S hose up towards the air distribution piece connection.
That will lock in the hose.


Also, when replacing the O-ring on the dip stick, slide the O-ring on the dip stick first, don't push the ring into the oil pan.

Thanks!
Jason
 
#46 ·
Well, I replaced my CCV finally...
Let just emphasize..... "finally"...
The job was NOT fun.
The ONE electrical plug infront of the Vanos was especially hard to take off.
The old CCV hoses were a pain to take off as well.
I tried to disconnect the old hose with breaking them, but finally gave in after a LONG time, and broke the things!
I did not have modify the cold weather CCV.
One key thing to do, that will help take off the old hoses, is to take off the air distribution piece on top of the intake manifold!
That will allow you access to the (2) top hose connections, and let you clean the massive filth under there.

And, I found a easy way to connect the small 'S' hose that connects to the air distribution piece from the CCV.
First, you install the cold weather CCV WITH long hose the goes to the front of the valve cover CONNECTED to the CCV.
Then snake the 'S' hose in.
Turn the S hose back so that it is parallel the ground, which then allows you to twist connect to the CCV.
Turn the S hose up towards the air distribution piece connection.
That will lock in the hose.

Also, when replacing the O-ring on the dip stick, slide the O-ring on the dip stick first, don't push the ring into the oil pan.

Thanks!
Jason
Yep, that was not a fun job, not at all. I broke all my old hoses as well.
 
#49 ·
What were your symptoms immediately before it blew? From time to time I am getting a burnt oil smell, but can not locate the cause. I suspect the CCV but really don't want to dig into the project right now because my garage is not heated. On the other hand, I don't want to risk getting stuck somewhere or damaging the engine.
 
#50 ·
Well, it started when my temp gauge was being erratic. It's currently in the low teens during the day here(Indiana) and I would let my car warm up for about 5 or 10 min, and as soon as I would take off the heat would get cool and the temp gauge would be pegged. Turning the car off would reset the temp gauge at what I think is correct.....So, I take it into the dealer and they said it needed a software upgrade, so I had them do that and in the process the mechanic found that the thermostat was stuck open and the fan clutch was rattling. They wanted almost $700 to fix it all. So, this morning I make my usual run to Starbucks and while I'm in line I start to smell something burning, so I get my coffee and head home and I get out and pop the hood and smoke is pouring out of my grill. There was oil all over the exhaust. Basically what happens is when the car doesn't get up to temp long enough to burn off the water in the CCV it freezes and therefore causes the pressure build up in the crankcase and then ultimately blows the valve cover gasket....and possibly cracks the valve cover itself.
Lucky for me the parts guy at the BMW dealer here is a good friend and always cuts me a good deal.
So far I have about 4hrs in the removal and replacing of the CCV. It really wasn't that hard, just a little scary getting that deep into an engine I know little about.
Tomorrow I am tackling the thermo and the valve cover gasket, praying to the BMW gods that the valve cover isn't cracked!!!

I am fortunate enough to have an insulated garage and a sweet little propane heater that pumps the temp to around 60 or I would be in a world of hurt.

I read on here something about the copper or aluminum gaskets on the lines that lead to the Vanos leaking. Have you checked around that yet Financeman?
 
#51 ·
Thank you for the response Robw530i. I have not noticed any leaks around the vanos though there does appear to be a leak around the base of the oil filter housing....the only visable leak I can identify other than a little minor seepage around the power steering reservoir. It also appears the car started using a little oil when it got cold... When I picked up the oil from the dealer the parts guy says that's normal. The times when I have smelled the burning oil is typically five or six miles into my morning commute on very cold mornings.

It is forcast to drop below zero here within the next day or two and I am hoping I don't end up with a catastrophic failure...like the one you experienced. I removed the oil filler cap while the car was running yesterday and I noticed some suction...which I believe is good. I also took the car out for a good drive (about 30 miles yesterday) and no longer notice mayo around the filler cap area. Worse case scenario I have access to a good indy and I my just need to bite the bullet and have someone else do the work.
 
#53 ·
You may just have a tiny leak somewhere on your valve cover or another seal and it's burning off on the exhaust. As for the oil usage, I am adding a half a quart every 3-4 months, and my mileage is absolutely horrible. I am lucky to get 325 miles out of a tank, with a 50/50 split of city and highway miles.
You may have given yourself enough room to wait til it's warm out to change yours, let's hope.
 
#56 ·
I'm thinking about not selling my '03 540i now and having my cooling system replaced instead. Should I have him do the CCV at the same time? Approx how much am I looking at parts and how many labor hours for the CCV? I have 80k miles on it now. TIA.
 
#58 ·
hts, here is my parts list, yours will be a bit different since yours is a v8 but I can't see it being more or even less than a few bucks difference.

Pressure regulating valve (ccv) $84.37

Vent pipe $41.02

Connecting line $54.05

Return pipe $54.05

Vent hose $22.15

The dealer was going to charge me $378.00 for labor

The subtotal with tax would have been $666.54 if I hadn't done it myself. It took me about 4 hrs, not sure about a v8, might be much tighter. There is a DIY on here somewhere, where a guy detailed his swapout.
 
#60 ·
The [M54] DIY is the first post on this thread!
Lately, I've been putting the best links to refer others to in the E39 Links section for future reference ....

This CCV (aka PCV & CVV I think) thread certainly qualifies for that referral!
 
#66 ·
I can not edit my original post so here's an update. Someone else tried this and found it made the job much easier. Instead of removing the intake manifold and distribution piece, he removed the oil filter housing only. This is a lot less work and gave him much better access to the CCV. Plus it allows you to replace the OFH gasket, which is prone to leakage. I haven't done this but it made sense to me.
 
#69 ·
I just got this done thanks to the various DIYs here and elsewhere.

One problem.. I found a mystery o-ring under my car while everything was apart.



Its dimensions are 12mm outer diameter, 8mm inner diameter, 2mm thick. It's not the dipstick o-ring because that is about the same diameter as the nickel. I looked through some realoem diagrams which didn't help. It was clean and dry when I found it, so it was either in a non-dirty location or it fell off the new CCV.
 
#73 ·
In case anyone has trouble on realoem.com finding WHERE to look for their car's CCV info:

Engine-->Cylinder Head
 
#74 ·
12. Installing the connecting line is the most difficult. It requires you to rotate the line about 1/3 turn to lock the line onto the CCV (practice this connection process on the bench). The other hoses use the locking snap connectors that just insert and snap to lock. After trying for over 2 hours to assemble these parts in their location :mad:, I was unsuccessful and decided to modify the locking mechanism. Use a Dremel tool and a sanding cylinder to sand the two retaining ridges on the CCV nozzle smooth from about 1" long to about 1/3 inch long (see photo). This simply reduces the rotation required to lock the connecting line to about 1/8 turn (~45 degrees). Mark the spots with paint where the connecting line aligns with the CCV nozzle to aid in assembly (see photo). Insert the connecting line into the original position from above the intake manifold. Much wiggling and bending of the line is required to get it into place. Once the lower connection is in place, insert the CCV into place. Align the marks, insert the hose into the CCV and rotate the 1/8 turn. This whole process took 10 minutes (vs. over 2 hrs!) with a minimum of effort after modifying the parts! Insert the upper connection line to the engine nozzle until you hear a click. Insert the CCV screws and tighten.
I finished the installation tonight on the crankcase ventilation/oil separator and it wasn't too bad on my 2001 530i.

I quoted the above step because I was able to rotate the connecting line (#3 in the part blow-up) and get it connected without too much trouble and with no modification.

Playing around a bit, I found I was able to insert the top of the connecting line (the section with the right-angle snap connector and smaller offshoot) from under the engine and kind of rotate it in place. When you play with how this connects on the bench, you'll see why this is important as fudman alluded to above: it connects to the CV/OS and then to lock it into place, one rotates the line.

So with the connecting line in place ready to be rotated into proper position, I inserted the CV/OS into its spot. I then pushed the connecting line into the CV/OS and then rotated it up through the available hole and into position.

To the best of my ability and triple-checking, that connecting line was indeed locked snugly onto the CV/OS. I then bolted down the CV/OS and snapped on the other lines.

Funny thing, I think trying to get the vent pipe (#2 on the diagram) snapped onto the CV/OS was tougher than the connecting line for me. It probably took me 15 minutes but eventually I got the click.

My car has been in California since day one and I did see that dreaded "mayo" in some of the lines. My M54 engine also uses about a quart of oil per oil change (~7500 miles).

Anyway, thanks for a great write-up...everything did go smoothly. My engine is still apart as I'm now going to tackle the VANOS seal replacement next.
 
#76 ·
Successful CCV repair on 2002 530i E39/M54

I successfully removed and replaced the CCV and all hoses using the DIY procedure posted by Fudman. This job was a royal pain and took about 12 hours; 1/2 day saturday and full day sunday. I had two areas of difficulty. One, removal of the hidden 10mm nut behind the intake throttle body securing the electrical junction box. I bought a 10mm socket w/swivel and was able to final get in a remove. Second was the re-attachment of the connector-line hose to the top port of the CCV. I had to modify the new CCV component as described by Fudman-- reduced the stab/twist locking detent from 1 inch to about .3 inches work for me as well. I used a 1/8 inch diameter endmill type cutting tool in my Dremel instead of a sanding stone. I labeled all of the electrical cable assemblies with file folder labels- worked great. Great write up by Fudman-. Thanks, BMW657.
 
#77 ·
I changed my CCV today using Fudman's DIY in & found it worked very well. I have two suggestions to make.

I found that I didn't have to disconnect the 3 plugs to the top of the engine over toward the exhaust side which allows the harness to be pulled across. Actually, I couldn't get one of the plugs undone & in desperation tried leaving them connected. I had a little less freedom to move the wiring box but found it to be no big problem.

Best though, I have some pictures to describe a solution to that @#%^& connection tube that everyone complains about. I think some others may have tried to describe this method without pictures, but the sequence of steps was never clear for me.

I spent over an hour feeding it down into position & then trying to rotate the lock on the joint to CCV without coming even close. With this method it became a 1 minute job - just the connection tube that is, not the entire job. :D
Also, I didn't have to modify the locking connection as Fudman describes.

The trick was to detach the evap valve on the front of the manifold so the hard plastic vacuum hose to it could be flexed down out of the way. Here is what worked for me:
1 place new CCV in position
2 remove evap valve bracket from manifold and drop down out of the way
3 from under the manifold, push the connection tube onto the CCV. Picture01
4 rotate the connection tube around the joint to the CCV, the end going up to the distribution piece will swing easily up between the manifold runners. This locks the connection tube onto the CCV. Picture02 from top and Picture03 under the manifold
5 reattach evap valve bracket. Picuture04. I had to twist the valve on its rubber mount to get a screwdriver on one of the two the torx screws but there is lots of compliance, no damage done.

You will see from that pictures that I was doing my oil filter housing gasket so I had easier access than otherwise, I think though that this method would work with the oil filter housing in place.

Regards
RDL
 

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