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CCV Replacement on an M54 (E39)

192K views 104 replies 41 participants last post by  Pradeep Gowda 
#1 ·
Many thanx to Aioros, Cn90, Lbert, and others who have written extensively on this topic. Their writeups gave me the courage to attempt this myself. This DIY is specifically for M54 engines (2001-2003), which have not gotten the same attention as the older M52 and have some slight differences in procedure. This procedure is only for replacement of the CCV and hoses, and is specific to the insulated variant. Note: This procedure intentionally minimizes non-essential removal of components (i.e. intake manifold, oil filter housing, etc.). While space and access is difficult, it is not impossible. Removing things like the oil filter housing can improve access. It took me over 8 hours over two days to do this job but I took my time, documented everything, took pictures and was very, very careful. Knowing what I know now and following this procedure, I can probably do it in under 3 hours now. Absolutely NO technical knowledge of BMWs or auto repair experience is required (as I have very little of either). Caution is the key as there are occasional steps where things just don’t go simply or easily. I have developed workarounds for several of those. This procedure simply documents what I did and is for informational purposes only.

Tools
• T-40, T-27 & T-25 Torx
• 6mm, 10mm, & 13mm sockets
• Ratchet -1/4" & 3/8”
• Extension bars, various lengths - 1/4" & 3/8”
• ¼” drive handle
• Small mirror (absolutely necessary!)
• Assorted flat blade screw drivers in different lengths
• Magnetic pick up tool (optional)
• Small blade knife or cutter (for old hoses)
• WD-40

Parts
• 11 61 7 533 400 Pressure Regulating Valve - CCV (insulated)
• 11 61 1 533 398 Vent Pipe (insulated)
• 11 61 7 533 399 Connecting line (insulated)
• 11 61 7 532 629 Vent hose (insulated)
• 11 61 7 504 536 Return Pipe (insulated)
• 11 43 1 740 045 O-Ring, Oil Dip Stick Tube to Oil Pan

I should’ve replaced the throttle body gasket but they didn’t have it in stock and I didn’t want to wait to button her up. Oh well! Note that the RealOEM part #6 vacuum hose is not required. In fact, the connection point on the insulated CCV is capped and hidden under the foam jacket.
Here is what I did:

1. Undo the long spring clip to remove the filter housing cover and and the cabin air filter. Squeeze and remove the small spring clip on the bolt at the front housing support. Remove the sensor connector and then remove the filter housing by pulling forward and store

2. Remove the fuel rail cover by removing the (2) plastic caps and the (2) 10mm bolts underneath the caps. Remove the fuel rail cover and store.

3. Remove the Mass Air Flow sensor (MAF) (Ref. Bentley 130-33) by disconnecting wiring harness to MAF sensor (push down the metal clip and pull the connector). Loosen the hose clamps (6mm or flat blade) between MAF and upper air intake boot and the air filter box. Remove the MAF to give you the space to remove the air filter box (next step).

4. Remove the air filter box assembly. Detach wiring harness behind air filter box
Remove 10mm bolt on air box base. Remove both air filter box and reassemble the MAF and air filter box as a single unit. Note the air filter box can be difficult to remove without removing the MAF because of insufficient space to pull the components apart.

5. Remove upper air intake boot by loosening the hose clamp (6 mm or flat blade). Carefully disconnect the vent hose coming off the top of the upper air intake boot. This took me over 20 minutes of gently prying the elbow off with a screwdriver to avoid damaging the boot. Maybe I should’ve just yanked on it…

6. Remove the lower air intake boot by loosening the two hose clamps. Some DIYs say that you must replace the lower intake boot. I didn’t want to spend the extra $35 so I was careful not to damage it during removal. Access to the second hose clamp screw requires removing a small cable support (10 mm bolt). Note that the boot has a large rubber tab at its base. This tab aligns with guides located on the throttle body port. Align the tab with the guides when reassembling.

7. Remove the oil dipstick guide tube by cutting off CCV hose from the dipstick (it’s much easier than removing it!). Remove the 13mm bolt holding oil dip stick bracket. Disconnect a wiring bundle from the support bracket. Replace the O-ring at its base. No oil will spill as long as the oil pan is not overfilled. Insert a plug (I used tin foil) on the hole to prevent anything from falling in. Clean the guide tube going to the CCV with a flexible rod and clear with compressed air. If you drive in cold weather, you will probably find yellow-white oil condensate (“mayo”) inside this tube. This is why you are changing to the insulated CCV.

8. Remove the wiring harness box by removing (1) 10 mm bolt and (2) 10mm nuts. One of the nuts is located at bottom right of the throttle body, next to one of the throttle body bolts. Use a mirror to view the location. The wiring harness connectors have a metal locking wire clip. Push down and pull on the connector to disconnect. To re-install, insert connector without touching metal clip until you hear it click into place. Several cables leave the front of the wiring box. Disconnect those electrical connectors that terminate toward the front to allow freedom to move the wiring box to the rear. Label all connectors to simplify reassembly. One cable has three connectors, one at the top of the radiator and the other two connectors at the front right of the radiator. Tie the two connectors together with a 24” string before you pull them to get slack. The string is so you can pull them back through when you’re done.

9. Remove the throttle body by removing (4) 10mm bolts on the corners of the throttle body. Move it aside (to the rear) to access the CCV.

10. Remove (2) T-25 screws that hold the CCV in place. Then cut the hoses to allow removal of the CCV. When removing the old hoses from their connection points, it is far easier to simply cut or break the old locking rings with a screwdriver than to try and squeeze the locking rings to remove them. Once the locking rings are broken, simply pull the hose off. You will find most of the hoses to be somewhat brittle, which is why you are replacing them.

11. Warm weather uninsulated CCVs can skip this step I installed the insulated CCV and there is barely room to put it into place due to the foam insulation jacket. Since the connection to the connecting line requires that you rotate the CCV to lock the connection, I decided to modify my insulated CCV by cutting off about 1/8” of the foam jacket on the flat circular disk side of the CCV with a razor. I did not cut through the foam jacket, I just removed enough of the foam so the surface is flat (see photo). This creates enough room to rotate the CCV when in place. This makes a HUGE difference.

12. Installing the connecting line is the most difficult. It requires you to rotate the line about 1/3 turn to lock the line onto the CCV (practice this connection process on the bench). The other hoses use the locking snap connectors that just insert and snap to lock. After trying for over 2 hours to assemble these parts in their location :mad:, I was unsuccessful and decided to modify the locking mechanism. Use a Dremel tool and a sanding cylinder to sand the two retaining ridges on the CCV nozzle smooth from about 1” long to about 1/3 inch long (see photo). This simply reduces the rotation required to lock the connecting line to about 1/8 turn (~45 degrees). Mark the spots with paint where the connecting line aligns with the CCV nozzle to aid in assembly (see photo). Insert the connecting line into the original position from above the intake manifold. Much wiggling and bending of the line is required to get it into place. Once the lower connection is in place, insert the CCV into place. Align the marks, insert the hose into the CCV and rotate the 1/8 turn. This whole process took 10 minutes (vs. over 2 hrs!) with a minimum of effort after modifying the parts! Insert the upper connection line to the engine nozzle until you hear a click. Insert the CCV screws and tighten.

13. Remove the old hoses and install the new return pipe to the top of the engine. The other end attaches to the small branch nozzle at the top of the connecting line. Insert each hose connector onto the connecting nozzle until you hear a click.

14. Remove the old vent pipe and insert the new vent pipe down into the same location. The 90 degree turn is at the top and the angled turn is at the bottom. Align the lower vent pipe connector to the lower CCV nozzle, insert and push until you hear the click. The upper vent pipe connection connects to the valve cover in the same way.

15. Work backwards from Step 9 and it is clear sailing from there. When reconnecting the wiring cables, pull the string to pull the connectors out from the radiator. Be sure to route cables so they are not exposed to the fan. Make sure the right cable goes to the right connector.

16. Prepare the oil dipstick tube by inserting the vent hose onto the branch muzzle on the dip stick tube. The vent hose does not use a locking ring and simply inserts onto the nozzle. When reinstalling the dip stick, you must make sure that the one connector that is attached to the wiring box (all others are cables exiting the wiring box) is disconnected to allow you access to reconnect the upper end of the vent hose to the bottom of the CCV. Insert the hose connector onto the CCV nozzle until it clicks.

When I was done, there were no parts lying around (a good sign). I fired the car up, she purred like always and no CEL lights were lit. A short drive confirmed that I didn’t screw anything up. :thumbup: I don’t notice any difference in the way she runs but there was nothing wrong before the change. Hopefully, I won’t be blowing the black smoke that I had last winter. Hopes this helps someone who does this job on an M54.
 

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#78 · (Edited)
I'm trying to get a handle on the parts that are typically replaced during a CCV system overhaul as per this thread (see post #4):
- How to test the BMW E39 pressure-controlled crankcase ventilation system (CCV)?

I'm also confused about the part number for the M54 guide tube as per this thread (see post #29):
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > CCV replacement tips

Q1: Is this the right list of parts that are needed for the M54?

Total $220 to $235 for the following 7 to 8 items:

  1. Pressure regulating valve (cold weather version, 11617533400 = $66)
  2. Vent pipe (cold weather version, 11617533398 = $28)
  3. Connecting line (cold weather version, 11617533399 = $34)
  4. Vent hose (cold weather version, 11157532629 = $15)
  5. Return pipe (stock version is already insulated, 11617504536 = $34)
  6. Dipstick guide tube (redesigned version sans concentric rings, 11437531258 = $41)
  7. Dipstick guide tube lower o-ring (19.5x3mm, 11431740045 = $2)
  8. Vacuum hose black (not on all E39s = $15, e.g., not on the M54)
 

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#80 ·
Ha, always save receipts! Blue, here's the list of parts I purchased from EAC late last year:

11617533400 Crankcase Vent Valve GENUINE BMW 65.42 1 65.42
11617533399 Crankcase Vent Hose GENUINE BMW 33.65 1 33.65
11617504536 Crankcase Vent Pipe GENUINE BMW 29.81 1 29.81
11431740045 O-Ring D P H 0.84 1 0.84
11157532629 Crankcase Vent Hose GENUINE BMW 15.19 1 15.19
11617533398 Crankcase Vent Pipe GENUINE BMW 27.85 1 27.85

If anything else was needed, Gary at Martin Motorsports never told me.
 
#82 · (Edited)
11617533400 Crankcase Vent Valve $65.42
11617504536 Crankcase Vent Pipe $29.81
11617533399 Crankcase Vent Hose $33.65
11431740045 O-Ring DPH $0.84
11157532629 Crankcase Vent Hose $15.19
11617533398 Crankcase Vent Pipe $27.85
Being an ex program manager, I popped this into the spreadsheet, and, re-ordering a bit to doublecheck against realoem, your list becomes:

  1. 11617533400 Crankcase Vent Valve $65.42
    • Same as Realoem: Pressure regulating valve (cold weather version, 11617533400 = $66)
  2. 11617533398 Crankcase Vent Pipe $27.85
    • Same as Realoem: Vent pipe (cold weather version, 11617533398 = $28)
  3. 11617533399 Crankcase Vent Hose $33.65
    • Same as Realoem: Connecting line (cold weather version, 11617533399 = $34)
  4. 11157532629 Crankcase Vent Hose $15.19
    • Same as Realoem: Vent hose (cold weather version, 11157532629 = $15)
  5. 11617504536 Crankcase Vent Pipe $29.81
    • Same as Realoem: Return pipe (stock version is already insulated, 11617504536 = $34)
  6. No dipstick guide tube:
    • Realoem: Dipstick guide tube (redesigned version sans concentric rings, 11437531258 = $41)
  7. 11431740045 O-Ring DPH $0.84
    • Same as Realoem: Dipstick guide tube lower o-ring (19.5x3mm, 11431740045 = $2)
  8. No vacuum hose black
    • Realoem: Vacuum hose black (3.5x1.8mm, 11727545323, not on all E39s = $15, e.g., not on the M54)
OK. Looking at the spreadsheet, I see your prices were almost exactly what I found in the Realoem nominal tables; and your part numbers were the same.

The 'only' things you didn't get were:
• Dipstick guide tube, 11437531258 = $41
• Vacuum hose black, 11727545323, not on all E39s = $15

Your engine probably doesn't need the vacuum hose so let's forget that.
But what is the decision-making process about the dipstick guide tube?

I guess, if you replace the CCV system with the cold-weather parts (which you did), and, if you clean out the 'gunk' from the dipstick guide tube Y arm, then (I guess) you don't need the redesigned dipstick guide tube.

Was that your thinking about the dipstick guide tube?

BTW, I see EAC Tuning has the same CCV cold-weather kit that rdl purchased from BMW Parts Source:
Part# : 11 61 7 534 237 $109.95
Vent Valve Assembly, Crankcase (Cold Climate Version) Includes:
(1) Insulated Vent Valve
(2) Insulated Hoses
 

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#86 ·
#87 ·
Hi Gang - Could use a little bit of additional direction here. Just got the old car back from the stealership. Problem that occurred that send me there was I lost power assit to the brakes for a breif time (5 min or so) then popped check engine lights throwing peake codes indicating misfires in 3 cylinders. Cleared the codes, car ran fine again. I know that this was some kind of loss of vacuum to the power brake booster.

The report back indicated I need to replace the "Crankcase Vent Valve/Intake Gasket & Brake booster Line". Total price $2088.00!!!!! Plus tax!

Now I see that Fudman's details cover the CCV, which can affect vacuum, does anyone have any idea what intake gasket is being referred to (do the mean the complete intake manifold gasket?) and does anyone know where the brake booster line runs to after it leaves the booster?

Thanks.

Mike
2001 E39 M54 145K
 
#89 · (Edited)
I'm contemplating the dipstick guide as well. I was going to just clean it, but since it's been redesigned, might be worthwhile, while there doing the CCV.

Has anyone used this complete winter kit? http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/11_61_7_533_400/ES1905414/ They have a kit without throttle body ring, ICV grommet, etc. for $122, but heard the throttle body good to replace. But I have not seen anyone recommend the ICV grommet. The boot is probably good since there could be a crack somewhere (i guess).

Bluebee, where did you find the dipstick guide for $41. The cheapest I've found it was $71 http://www.ecstuning.com/Search/11_61_7_533_400/ES1905414/ES24241/ (BAVAUTO was almost $90). I'd rather clean it and save money, but if if others replace it while doing CCV, I'd probably do the same.

I'm not sure if the CCV is original or not, but some of the hoses say BMW and look a little worn. I can't tell about the CCV itself. Also, the CCV hoses are winter ones. Interesting that if it is the winter version, that it went bad.
 
#91 ·
UPDATE: Went to install new boots tonight and noticed vent hose had some grimey dirt on it. I was WTH (said worse), and then noticed same on the power steering case. I figured maybe the PS fluid made it over to vent hose, then month's worth of dirt. But while it's normal for PS fluid to escape vent hole, it would have covered oil filter housing too (it didn't). All three were clean last month when I did oil change, so it's new. I'm not worried about the PS fluid, but i do NOT want to mess with that CCV again! OMG!. Royal PITA. I knew it too because when I got the full CCV winter kit (can't remember if EAC, BAV) there was one non-OEM part with the kit. I think the vent pipe was URO or something like that, but it was the only non-OEM part and from what i can tell, the only one to be failing. So bummed. I don't see any oil leakage below that section where it connects to the VC, but there is obviously some gasious oil escaping somehow. There is no smoke/odor, and it must be very slight/small. But I will have to tackle it before winter. Be VERY wary of the next DIY out there--OEM only on the CCV (IMHO).

Happen to anyone else? Based upon your experience, is it serious, or I'm ok for now?
 

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#92 ·
maybe the PS fluid made it over to vent hose, then month's worth of dirt. But while it's normal for PS fluid to escape vent hole, it would have covered oil filter housing too (it didn't).
I came here to find information for this thread:
- How can we clean out a clogged oil dipstick tube (connection to CCV)?

But ... regarding your question ...

I know there are two schools of thought on 'where' the PS fluid mists out ...

One is the vent hole ... but ... the other is the o-ring under the cap of the power steering fluid reservoir.

So, I must ask: When was that power-steering fluid reservoir cap o ring last replaced?

 
#93 ·
Did mine today

Many thanks to Fudman and subsequent experts for the write-up.

Old one came out in bits.

Didn't disconnect the wiring to the junction box, just flexed the wires.

Replaced the dipstick tube with BMW's updated spec.

Attached the connecting line (#3 in the picture) before fitting the valve and wangled it through the intake manifold.

Total time 5 hrs.

Top tip? Petroleum jelly to get the boots and pipes back on.

My Bimmer just gave up smokin:thumbup:
 
#96 ·
Hello guys I'm new to the forum and I have a major issue. I was rushing to work and didn't let my car warm up properly and like 2 minutes into my drive white smoke filled the highway smoking all cars behind me. When I got to the red light the car seized on me and now it won't start at all. It's a 2004 BMW 530i with 106,000 miles on it! Please help!!
 
#97 · (Edited)
For various reasons, I had replaced my CCV system about 2 months ago (for second time now). No issues went well. Changes OFH gasket as well. I don't see any oil leaks but car is consuming about a quart per 1000 miles (about a year ago or more, it was a quart per 3,000). Anyway, the issue I'm pointing out today is that I was down 2 quarts today (out of 6.9). I noticed there was mayo on the dipstick by where you check it. Not a lot, but noticeable. I've never seen mayo before, even before/during the 1st CCV replacement. Now I have a 2nd CCV and I'm seeing it. I'm just wondering if it's because I was that low on oil AND we got our first big winter storm here in TX. It's been 80 one day, freezing the next. Would low oil (along with cold/hot weather) cause the mayo to show up so quickly? i.e. was none before a few months ago, and I cleaned out the dipstick during the CCV replacement (was clean already). and both were the winter CCV kits.

As a side note, not sure why I didn't get alerted to being 2 quarts low--I replaced the low oil level sensor on the pan a few months back too. But that's another issue.

Note: Both times I used the winter version.
 
#98 · (Edited)
Going to check the vent hose this weekend for mayo, and check/clean the hose/dipstick. I don't get it though. replaced with winter version (BMW brand, not OEM/other). The first time I replaced the CCV system about 2 plus years ago, it was more proactive than anything. The 2nd time I replaced it was because when I replaced the CCV system a few years ago, the vent hose was garbage/leaking (URO). it was included with OEM branded kit from BAVAUTO.

Since a few years ago, I noticed oil consumption was up (no other symptoms/smoking/etc). So I installed my 2nd new winter kit around early January of this year. no leaking from vent pipe, no leaking anywhere. all good. Neither the original CCV, or ccv from a few years ago showed one inkling of mayo-anywhere for years. Yet, the January 2015 winter kit is already showing may--barely 2 months. Either I have a bad CCV, or a winter version is no guarantee that one won't get may (just better odds), or when I was down 2 qts oil recently, the increased vapors from that/whatever, I don't know, just thinking out loud, caused mayo to build. I do work only 5 miles away from work, it's been hot/cold here in TEXAS, and sometimes I start car to go mailbox and box (start/stop). Who knows. But I will check tomorrow and sadly, most likely will replace entire system again as I don't want to risk mayo built-up and causing major issues.

Question1. Does anyone know if an oil change helps the short- or long-term remedy of mayo and/or its build-up?
Question 2. With the warm weather is just weeks ago, do the ill effects of winter mayo/ccv issues "hide" until the cold comes back? i.e. buy time before changing the ccv.
 
#100 ·
Thank eburnz!!! I'm going to look into this. I thought it was just me, going on a 4th CCV system (last two are winter versions), and was looking to install 4th winter kit. But will do some research on a PCV replacement. I am tired of this crazy CCV thing.
 
#101 ·
hey guys I've been having an issue with my car for a few months now. I've got the somewhat loud whistling noise from the engine bay, I've been adding a quart of oil (when my oil light comes on) about every 600-800miles. my car is a 525i with 119.5k on it. i believe I'm on the original ccv. I've noticed a slight lose of power and not great mpg, avg about 23mpg doing 80/20 freeway/city. i live in the bay area, california. i haven't noticed any smoke on start up, i usually let my car warm up for a few minutes in the morning then do my 30mile trip to work. i do occasionally do a 1/2 mile trip a few times a week without warming up my car. I'm just curous if this sounds like the ccv is going bad? i just don't want to pull the trigger and do the diy and have the issue not fixed. either id like to see if anyone is located in the bay area who i could meet up with or just give me some advice on here. thanks for your time guys

mike
 
#103 · (Edited)
For the record, this was posted today ...
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > CCV Help

it was a -25 degree day....all day and my 2000 BMW 528I was parked outside in the elements. After 9 hrs of work i went to start up the car. It started right up. I let it run for about 3 minutes thinking man its cold....let this baby warm up. Then i engaged drive and right off the bat...the gas or movement of the vehicule was sluggish. It hesitated.....so i figured it was the cold and it would clear up. After 4 miles or about 4 minutes of driving of which seemed normal...i came to a red light on a 45 m/hr road...noticing all this white smoke coming out of the tail pipe....man this suck.....ss.s...this is embarassing man. Worse yet,,,,,,the weather was not improving. It was snowing heavy and still -25.....i hate Cleveland and cant wait to get the heck out of this town....but for now im stuck here....back to this scene man.

so the light turns green and i continue to drive...im thinking man i don't know maybe that white smoke is just condensation since it is so cold....you know how tail pipes create that billowing white smoke when its cold...right.....so im on the higway and driving and i notice all that damn smoke behind me is not going away....and im thinking man for the first time i have no one tailgating me....lol. The cars behind me were actually dropping way back or exiting the left speed lane i was in....i was traveling at 60 mi/hr being careful do to weather being bad.

As im driving i realize i still had 30 miles before i got home, im on a damn highway with many cars and the weather is now a white out....and -25....man this sucks. I look at my instrument cluster and do not see any issues...this is with 10 miles of driving and 30 to go.......another 5 miles goes by for a total of 15 that expired and i notice on my instrument cluster a yellow oil lantern light lit up....oh shi ....t. What the fu>k. Now add this to the white out, icy, sub artic (-25F) and traffic around me conditions....ohhhummm.

So i said okay man....i need a johnny walker bad....but i'll settle for a Walmart stop up ahead and get a quart of oil......maybe i need some.......I get to walkmart....exiting with all that embarassing white smoke....and finally park the car, open the hood and check the dipstick to find i had just a bit of oil in the lower section of the dipstick marked. Oka...i add oil ...one quart....and go home ....smoke and all. I finally get home.....and during those final 25 miles...i noticed the white smoke came and left.....and it was not so heavy by the time i got home. I parked the car in the garage and after one hour opened the hood to find the oil on the dipstic was non existant while there was oil all over the left side of the engine, below the valve cover and the silver like tabs that jut out down there....all over the front of the engine below the Vanos and just dripped all over man....man that sucks..

Well...the car has been in the garage for 5 weeks now maybe six.....and i keep praying my wife don't mess up my Cadillac which is normally stored over the winter, but we had to bring it out. She is driving it since her daily commute is 10miles while mine is 80miles and i don't want to put all those miles on it.....but the risk is there that she will run the rims into the curb, get door scratches or dings, hit something.....man.....what can is say...every car she drives has mysterious sh_t happen to it....now shes driving my other baby.....so.

After reading all the forums....i have already, rebuilt the Vanos with new Seals, O-rings and gaskets, rebuilt the Valve Cover gaskets, installed new spark plugs (there was about 1/16" of oil surrounding the sparkplugs in 1,2,4,5 and 6) after cleaning out the wells, and even replaced the lower radiatorhose after the indy mechanic ripped me off replacing the upper radiator hose for $250....i guess that is how i found Bimmerfest and became an avid dIYer.

so now i have left to do a radiator/engine flush before i put the new coolant in (im reviewing other Bimmerfest DIY on this topic) and now this CCV.

THere seems to be no conclusive DIY on how to do a CCV replacement. After watching a few Utube vids on the subject along with reading up on some comments here are the boards, i willnote that i did find the mayannaise paste inside the connector to the Valve cover and under the oil cap and on the underside of the valve cover over the Vanos section. After reading some comments i am now afraid that if i start my engine without doing anything about the CCV i may find oil and pressure sucked into my valve cover and create more issues with the new spark plugs possibly getting oil in them again and the new and fresh valve cover gasket having problems or the valve cover itself or what ever man....

Can someone out there offer me some advice? I came this far man. All these fixes and now i don't know .......i watched a vid last night on removing all this sh t from the right side of the engine to replace all the hoses and the lines, returns and valve for the CCV unit.....no problem...i will gladly tackle it......so guys/gals....what do you think man?

Oh....i just put fresh oil (5 quarts) into the booger last night along with a new oil filter and o-ring. Will i need to drain this now if i am to do this CCV replacement? I can use the oil again right if i drain it...it is brand new just put in....i can't afford to keep dumping $27 in oil for stupidity on my part......

Oh man...what a delema. Asking for all the experts to help. Bluebee thanks ahead for any links or help.

Val.
See also:
- How to test the crankcase ventilation (aka CCV, CVV, PCV, CPV, & OSV) pressure regulating valve system (1) & the canonical bimmerfest Fudman M54 CCV replacement DIY (1) & the bimmerforums Jason5Driver M54 CCV DIY (1) & the BavAuto M54 CCV DIY (1) & sorely needed clarification on how the M54 CCV vacuum port works on the M52 CCV valve connection to the fuel pressure regulator connection (1) & how to do a CCV delete (1) & how to test, clean, & redesign the original BMW dipstick guide tube to prevent CCV vent clogs (1)
 
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