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6 Series
The BMW 6 Series builds on BMW's sporty heritage with aggressive lines and an incredible motor to back the design up. Available in coupe and convertible trims with a standard 4.8 liter engine producing 360 horsepower and 360 lb-ft of torque, the 6-series is a popular choice that exceeds expectations. |
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#1
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AUX INPUT just added what a nightmare!!!
[SIZE=5Hi Everyone,
I just had my AUX INPUT installed and let me tell you what a nightmare that turned out to be. Please advise NO dealer in SoCal has a F**ken clue what they are talking about. I purchased Aux cable $65.Then the dealer wanted 3 1/2 hours @ $126 for the install, yes do the math. So I took it my friends Auto shop. JUST IN CASE you guys attempt this, the Aux Cable needs to plug in behind the CD/DVD player which is pretty easy, ONLY IF YOU KNOW THAT THIERS A SCREW holding the vents on top; you'll need to remove the Hazard/Door lock module which is one whole item 1st!!! Then that whole face plate with the radio comes right out. Then you'll find the spot for the aux input is already taken, you'll need to take the pins out of the old plug and place them on too the Aux plug and make sure you follow the retrofit instructions because they don't go in the same exact spot on the plug, they get moved around. Then the dealer needs to So-Called reprogram your car, BULL****T. It’s a matter of activating a feature using the GT-1. Which the dealer did for me "Goodwill". Please let me know if anyone in consider doing this, I’ll be more than happy to walk you through it. The install should not take more than 30-45min.[/SIZE] Last edited by beewang; 12-23-2005 at 02:54 PM. |
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#2
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Thanks for the info.
Last edited by Malibubimmer; 12-23-2005 at 09:15 PM. |
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#3
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Hey viken
can you please list the procedure step by step for us
I plan to do this as well. I think it would be very helpful |
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#4
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first with a fiber stick, or if your careful a pick tool. remove hazard lock switch. I found the easiest way was to approach it from the side.I did mar the one I just did and have a new one coming for it. no big deal, it will be used ... well out of a wrecked 645. Anyways disconnect the plug from the back of the switch
there is a torx screw under the switch, it will be vertical either a t15 or t20... remove next remove the A/C vent, I use a hook tool from inside the vent and pull out on each side. remove the two philip head screws on each side of the radio bezel. next remove the boot on the shifter by pullin it up, not off. remove the ashtray then reach in the cavity of the shifter and pull up on the plastic piece that held the boot, disconnect the 4 plugs and remove remove 4 torx head screws that will be visible partially remove the unit and disconnect the harnesses, then completely remove with that removed you are now able to grasp the trim bezel from underneath and pry up on it a little to release the clips. remove the electrical plugs and set the unit aside safetly remove the 4 philip head screws holding the dvd nav and the cd player in place put the vehicle in gear and slide the unit out of the cavity. remove the gps antenna, the radio antenna, the 3 pin plug to the fan, the 10 pin din cable, so your left with the one big square molex connector. squeeze the sides of it and flip the lever down, the plug will come out next set the radio aside in a safe place the last harness has the top passenger side plug in it that needs to be removed for the aux input to plug in. Here is the screwed up part, thathad my sleep deprived brain asking silly stupid questions here. leave the pins in that plug, remove the pins from the other plug (adapter) and insert into the existing plug, if memory serves me it will be 2, 7, and 8. the plug is labeled on the front now to remove the pins it is pretty simple, look at the one on the adapter first, little tit that holds the cover on, when depressed, it will slide to the right or whatever ay the arrow says. with a pick tool, depress on the tit that holds the pin in the socket, pull back an 1/8" and depress again, because it will most likely get caught up on the opening remove and reinstall into the existing harness with the pins going in the hole assigned put everything back together. don't bother testing till the aux is assigned to the menu via the dealer and his computer words of advise, use a few towels when removing the panels soas not to scratch. you candisconnect the battery so you willget no fault codes, but i believe that when disconnected the vehicle won't shift out of park. you might ask why I don't care about fault codes, well your heading to the dealer anyways, they will reset them! that is why sorry if not completely comprehensive, but I am operating on 2 hours of sleep in the past 57 hours. Also i willpost a video on the one I did in about 2 hours or so... jim |
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#5
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What is this AUX input for?
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#6
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Allows you to listen to any device that produces audio via a "line out" or "headphone out" jack though the Audio system as another source. Such things as iPod, or any other brand of MP3 player, tape (cassette, 8-track - r u old enough?) CD or DVD player (audio portion only, not video).
Last edited by cobradav; 01-07-2007 at 07:13 PM. |
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#7
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man your post was a life saver. i had input installed for $40, even though i had to go back and put pins in correct spot, but it saved me $80 of my money giving to dealership!!
long story to say thanks for your detailed instructions!! |
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#8
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aux retrofit
Quote:
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#9
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You should aquire a ETK TIS etc these discs give you valuable information ie
diagrams on removal of such items, Part diagrams and numbers, wiring diagrams lucky if removing the Nav takes 5 mins really. Now removing the Steering wheel thats fun, I could have done with a power drill for the main nut haha that was pure strength in the end haha TIP : Hazard switch removal ... take a old credit card ( or a wifes current card
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#10
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so this is what happened. i did the install on the AUX and went to the dealer to get it programmed but they told me that they would need to do the whole upgrade on the computer so it would be 300 total. i dont mind doing it because they said it would eliminate a lot of the bugs i get with the navigation and some other stuff with the car and the rep said he could retrofit the tail lights and headlights so they wouldnt give me an error message anymore since i upgraded to the new lci lights. but now i think im going to get the ipod hook up and just program the car since im spending the money anyway. my only problem is that i have the dinan stage 2 software, will it get erased from the computer??
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Vehicles 2009 BMW 750LI (current) 2006 BMW 650I Convertible Sold- Dinan Stage 3, Full Throttle Body, Carbon Fiber Dual Intake, M6 Kit, LCI headlights and tailights, H&R lowering springs, 19" M6 wheels, custom magnaflow exhaust 1998 528I sold- hamann lip kit, euro headlights, custom exhaust |
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#11
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THAT AWESOME! any one near Oxnard< Ca that would love to helpo me out? some extra cash a and lunch! JOSEREVELES@HOTMAIL.COM
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