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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > Z Series > E85 / E86 Z4 (2003-2008)

E85 / E86 Z4 (2003-2008)
E85 Z4 Roadster, E86 Z4 Coupe, E85 Z4 M Roadster, and E86 Z4 M Coupe talk with our BMW gurus here.

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  #1  
Old 02-04-2006, 11:24 AM
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**Z4** How-tos (post links here)

This thread is meant to be Z4-specific. Post links and how-to's as replies to this thread. I/we will edit as needed.
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  #2  
Old 03-10-2006, 11:27 PM
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Z4 Heated outside mirrors

Someone sent me this knowing I was into it on the E36.


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  #3  
Old 03-15-2006, 02:15 PM
Doctor Wha Doctor Wha is offline
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Cool

Here's one of my own making... Z4 Door Handle LEDs:

http://www.z4um.com/viewtopic.php?t=...954435034ce802


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  #4  
Old 03-31-2006, 10:55 PM
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THX Certified Sound to BMW Z4










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  #5  
Old 04-02-2006, 03:02 PM
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E85 Complete Vechicle

Connect to:
http://www.unofficialbmw.com/images/...%20Vehicle.pdf

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  #6  
Old 04-02-2006, 08:33 PM
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Z4 Clock Set



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  #7  
Old 10-27-2006, 09:10 PM
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Z4 retrofit stainless steel pedal plates















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Old 10-27-2006, 09:14 PM
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pedals continued






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  #9  
Old 05-26-2008, 04:24 PM
fbriggs fbriggs is offline
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Post Z4 water pump replacement (e85, m54)

OK..here is how you really change the water pump on a Z4....(E85, m54 motor, mine is a 2.5) I have done this procedure, and all you will need are one water pump with o-ring, two m6x25mm bolts, a gallon of anti-freeze, simple hand tools, a few blocks of wood, a rolling floor jack, and jack stands. It is a good time to replace the belts, so get both of them. Yes, you do have to move the engine..a little.
1. Jack up the car on one side, place a smaller jackstand under the car where the front stabalizer is bolted to the frame. You just need to get the car up enough to remove the front plastic splashpan. Now remove the splashpan, grip it firmly, and toss it at the nearest BMW engineer to show your gratitude for designing a car that has a sheet metal support with webing placed directly infront of the water pump, thereby making it necessary to move the engine in order to remove the water pump, even though there is enough room infront of the sheet metal support to be able to desing it with a slight 1" dip towards the front of the car thereby providing enough clearance to simply remove the water pump unimpeded. Now, jack up the car a little higher, and remove your small jackstand and place a big jackstand (now that you have the clearance) under the car. place the jack on the other side, and jack it up enough to place another large jackstand under the car at the point where the anti-sway bar (stabilizer) bolts to the frame. Now place a rolling floorjack under the engine and place a block of wood between the jack and the oilpan at the front of the engine. Make sure this block of wood is long enough to support the load across the entire width of the oilpan, in order to srpead the weight of the engine across as much of the oilpan as possible, for obvious reasons. You just need to jack it up to meet the oilpan, don't go any higher yet. The reason you do this now is because the underside of the engine will soon become wet with anti-freeze, making everything slippery.
2. Now remove the belt for the A/C compressor (torx bit needed for tensioner)
3. Remove the top plastic (fanshroud?) cover and loosen but don't remove the bolts on the water pump pulley. Remove the serpentine belt. 16mm socket for the tensioner.
4. Now remove the 10mm bolts on the water pump pulley. Tap the pulley gently to get it off. It is made of plastic, so be careful. Remove the 10mm nuts on the water pump. Now install your m6x25mm bolts into the threaded holes on the water pump. Tighten them, and this will remove the water pump from the engine block. The coolant will spill out, but it won't be a lot. Now remove the upper radiator hose only where it connects to the engine by prying the metal clip. Push it up out of the way against the oil filter housing. You can remove the hose before removing the pump, but I did not because it would otherwise make everything wet that I still have to work on.
5. Now remove the nut at the left engine mount. I think it is a 16mm, might have been 15mm.
6. Jack up the engine slowly, but only go up to the point where the engine mounting bolt is just at the lip of the engine mount, where it almost clears the engine mount, but no further. (I would not want to have to line that thing up upon installation. Besides, it is not necessary to go that far.) You should now be able to pull out the water pump going in the direction of the passenger side.
Ta Da! You've now saved your self a lot of money. Now install the new water pump by lubricating the new o-ring with a little ant-freeze on your hand, and install the water pump. Put the car back together. Pour in some anti-freeze. With the car and the heater running, bleed the air out of the cooling system. (With the bleeder screw located next to the resevior cap.) But keep the old water pump. You will need this during your next trip to Germany, when you get the opportunity to throw it at the head of a BMW z4 engineer. This will make them think! It would be different if these water pumps did not fail prematurely.
Hope this helps!
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  #10  
Old 06-08-2008, 08:55 PM
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Ron Stygar Ron Stygar is offline
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BMW Antifreeze: 82 14 1 467 704 $19.25 retail

BMW antifreeze ia a long term rated coolant, unless you have repairs.



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  #11  
Old 06-17-2008, 08:37 PM
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BMW Faults: MSS70-2006 MZ4

Will add to them as it goes.


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  #12  
Old 07-16-2010, 01:10 PM
slyswine slyswine is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fbriggs View Post
OK..here is how you really change the water pump on a Z4....(E85, m54 motor, mine is a 2.5) I have done this procedure, and all you will need are one water pump with o-ring, two m6x25mm bolts, a gallon of anti-freeze, simple hand tools, a few blocks of wood, a rolling floor jack, and jack stands. It is a good time to replace the belts, so get both of them. Yes, you do have to move the engine..a little.
1. Jack up the car on one side, place a smaller jackstand under the car where the front stabalizer is bolted to the frame. You just need to get the car up enough to remove the front plastic splashpan. Now remove the splashpan, grip it firmly, and toss it at the nearest BMW engineer to show your gratitude for designing a car that has a sheet metal support with webing placed directly infront of the water pump, thereby making it necessary to move the engine in order to remove the water pump, even though there is enough room infront of the sheet metal support to be able to desing it with a slight 1" dip towards the front of the car thereby providing enough clearance to simply remove the water pump unimpeded. Now, jack up the car a little higher, and remove your small jackstand and place a big jackstand (now that you have the clearance) under the car. place the jack on the other side, and jack it up enough to place another large jackstand under the car at the point where the anti-sway bar (stabilizer) bolts to the frame. Now place a rolling floorjack under the engine and place a block of wood between the jack and the oilpan at the front of the engine. Make sure this block of wood is long enough to support the load across the entire width of the oilpan, in order to srpead the weight of the engine across as much of the oilpan as possible, for obvious reasons. You just need to jack it up to meet the oilpan, don't go any higher yet. The reason you do this now is because the underside of the engine will soon become wet with anti-freeze, making everything slippery.
2. Now remove the belt for the A/C compressor (torx bit needed for tensioner)
3. Remove the top plastic (fanshroud?) cover and loosen but don't remove the bolts on the water pump pulley. Remove the serpentine belt. 16mm socket for the tensioner.
4. Now remove the 10mm bolts on the water pump pulley. Tap the pulley gently to get it off. It is made of plastic, so be careful. Remove the 10mm nuts on the water pump. Now install your m6x25mm bolts into the threaded holes on the water pump. Tighten them, and this will remove the water pump from the engine block. The coolant will spill out, but it won't be a lot. Now remove the upper radiator hose only where it connects to the engine by prying the metal clip. Push it up out of the way against the oil filter housing. You can remove the hose before removing the pump, but I did not because it would otherwise make everything wet that I still have to work on.
5. Now remove the nut at the left engine mount. I think it is a 16mm, might have been 15mm.
6. Jack up the engine slowly, but only go up to the point where the engine mounting bolt is just at the lip of the engine mount, where it almost clears the engine mount, but no further. (I would not want to have to line that thing up upon installation. Besides, it is not necessary to go that far.) You should now be able to pull out the water pump going in the direction of the passenger side.
Ta Da! You've now saved your self a lot of money. Now install the new water pump by lubricating the new o-ring with a little ant-freeze on your hand, and install the water pump. Put the car back together. Pour in some anti-freeze. With the car and the heater running, bleed the air out of the cooling system. (With the bleeder screw located next to the resevior cap.) But keep the old water pump. You will need this during your next trip to Germany, when you get the opportunity to throw it at the head of a BMW z4 engineer. This will make them think! It would be different if these water pumps did not fail prematurely.
Hope this helps!
Hi, I have a 2003 Z4 3.0i E85 Chassis with a M54 Engine. I posted back in May the failure of my Cooling System. I was gradually loosing Antifreeze over a few months and then one day the cooling system failed.

I am a true DIY but have significant experience and tools with cars other than a BMW. The forum, especially the above quote from fbriggs, gave me the confidence that the repair was DIW feasible. However the gap between feasibility and reality can be enormous at times. I would like to share my DIY experience and the "crutches" I used to make my fix a success.

When I described my failure on this forum, there were a number of failure scenarios presented based on a number of different cooling components. My serpentine belt had shredded. The first thing I did was remove the remainder of the serpentine belt and remove the intact accessory belt. When checking for failed components, I initially looked for frozen or wobbly pully wheels. Water pump was wobbling all over the place. I looked for leakage around the thermostat and any cracks in the antifreeze reservoir. (With the water pump replaced , I am still looking to verify no leakage at those points)

First, the on line discussions are great if you know the ins and outs of your car. What is lacking is figures to give oneself the confidence that what you are doing is the right thing in the right place. To quell this fear, I relied on the online BMW maintenance manual provided by Mitchell.com . It only costs $11.00 a month to get access to a well described, well illustrated manual so one can feel confident that the forum descriptions are well visualized and confirrmed. You ccan rent the manuals for a day (really cheap), a month or longer. For a cost of a socket, it is well worth the peace of mind.

Second, we all can use a better description of jack support points. I relied on multiple web sources to convince me of the support points on the vehicle to my jacking and jack standing. I didnt have a fancy jack and only felt comfortable working with the 4 visually obvious jack points on the sides of the car. You really dont want to make a mistake at this point in the game and the lack of visuals can give one pause. Also, make sure you always have a buddy system given you are a DIY and some secondary jack stand support points for insurance. Disasters happen and you dont want to be the unlucky one with a low clearance car. One thing I learned by searching on the WEB is if you want to place jack supports for the front, using the rear jack points on the Z4 will lift the whole side and allow you to place a jack stand under the front jack support point.

All in all, the first time BMW DIY'er took the time to not rush, verify each step with some kind of visualization and if something doesnt seem right, ask questions or do more research............DONT FORCE THE ISSUE!!!!!!!!! And as fbriggs said, "save the old water pump to throw at the Z4 Engineer for requiring you to lift the engine 30 cm" and be proud you saved yourself a boatload of money for a $60 replacement part and a few belts. I'll be looking over the next few weeks for any sign of leakage but I certainly feel confident on many DIY repairs going forward now that I feel confident knowing the placement of components of the engine and the chassis. Next fix should be a breeze. Thanks for all who contributed to my questions.

Pete

Last edited by slyswine; 07-16-2010 at 01:18 PM.
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  #13  
Old 07-30-2010, 08:03 AM
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Z4 Wiring Diagrams

http://wds.spaghetticoder.org/
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  #14  
Old 12-13-2008, 09:34 AM
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Randy Forbes Randy Forbes is offline
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Beyond the trip home from the dealer (with the container bouncing around in the trunk) shaking the jug had never occured to me.

Thanks!

Glad to see you have your connection (laptop) back.
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  #15  
Old 12-16-2008, 08:55 AM
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Z4 M Filling Quantities

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  #16  
Old 12-21-2008, 04:54 PM
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Z4 Jacking points


Last edited by Ron Stygar; 04-15-2010 at 07:13 PM.
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  #17  
Old 01-06-2009, 09:26 PM
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CDV install and clutch bleed






1.3mm: Smaller yet versus the 1.7mm we are used to seeing.



Tools I used.



Also used a second clamp on the reservoir clutch line output.
No leaks this way at all if you don't shake the hose.





Some other lock valves:







------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Clutch Bleed:

The E36 and E36/7-8 (Z3) use the same basic clutch pieces parts.
For some reason the E36/7-8 (Z3) cars engagement point is lower than the E36. On the E36/7-8 (Z3), the engagement point lowers with heat.
From checking out the E36/7-8 (Z3), developing the front shifting arm bushings, I know that the temperature in the tunnel area exceeds 200 degrees F. The stock front shifting arm bushing in my M coupe turned to mush in less than 5000 miles.
The clutch slave cylinder is in the tunnel area.
Bleeding the clutch raises the engagement point on some E36/7-8's.
I purchased the bleed tool to see what the result is using it. Will be checking this out later this year.
For the ingineer fluid folks, how would the engagement point change with air in the system versus no air in the system with heat?
In other words, is it a bleed the air out thing?





Last edited by Ron Stygar; 03-05-2009 at 10:19 PM.
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  #18  
Old 02-01-2009, 09:08 PM
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Z4-M NA Passenger side motor mount bracket problem

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=233491

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=247988

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=272236

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=294159

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...0962&highlight

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho....php?p=4067789


If you want to use BMW stuff MotorSport Z4 uses the following:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...ght=motorsport

Screw 07 11 9 913 653 $0.47r
Screw 07 11 9 913 673 $0.62r
Washer 07 11 9 903 078 $0.35r



Bulletin:





Angle torque:

This is used on the connecting rod bolts and other things.

You torque the screw and then turn it degrees mentioned in the TIS torque area for what your doing.

http://www.unofficialbmw.com/all/too...le_torque.html

Retail is $191.37 now.



Motor mount bracket screws:

I had the front reinforcement plate out to clean the power steering fluid.

Good time to do the motor bracket screws.
Will do the drivers side when I remove the air collector.

I used the Motorsport 10.9 screws and washers.
Torqued all four at 24Nm with the following Sears tools.











Torque:

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Old 03-14-2009, 06:03 PM
P2ayc P2ayc is offline
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switched power z4

Finally got my extra power outlets in today. I have one for xm & another to charge my phone. I hate having wires out the cigg lighter.

What I did is remove the ashtray, remove the screw under it. Then lift the unit up & back the whole thing comes out in one unit.

There are three connectors attached to this, you want the largest (brown) one.

Peel back the wire covering & locate the purple & white wire. This is hot when the switch is on. Use the ground from the cigg lighter.

I fished the wires into the glove (something,on this car that is basically useless) I have the xm & extra outlet there.

I only listen to one station on xm so I don't need to see it or have it within reach. If you do then bring the wires out at a different location as fits your needs.
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  #20  
Old 04-02-2009, 06:02 PM
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Ron Stygar Ron Stygar is offline
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Z4 Instrument Cluster System Test







Speed: km/hr X 0.6214 = miles/hr

From jragan:

1. Enter Vehicle.

2. Start Car. (You can enter test mode and test all while the car is running and moving)


3. Enter test mode (hold down the S/R button until _tESt_0._ is displayed)

4. Press the S/R button quickly until _tESt_19._ is displayed.
......After a second, _tESt_19.0 will be displayed with alternating/flashing L_oFF and L_oN.
......When L_oFF is displayed, press both the S/R and the button beside it at the same time.
......You will be returned to _tESt_0._

5. Press the S/R button quickly until _tESt_7._ is displayed.
......After a second, _tESt_7.0 will be displayed.
......Press S/R button quickly until _tESt_7.3 is displayed.

6. Drive.

7. Note speeds. (Remember the _tESt_7.3 speed is in km/h so you'll need to do some math afterwards)

8. Stop Driving.

9. Turn car off.

10. Exit vehicle.
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Last edited by Ron Stygar; 08-28-2010 at 09:24 AM. Reason: (You can enter test mode and test all while the car is running and moving)
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  #21  
Old 04-03-2009, 06:56 AM
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Talking Z4 Softtop Removal and Softtop Motor Changeout

Over on Z4-forum.com, in the How-To section are two How-To's. One for the Soft Top removal and the other is for the motor replacement.

Soft Top removal: http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewto...p?f=12&t=10190

Motor replacement: http://www.z4-forum.com/forum/viewto...p?f=12&t=10189
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  #22  
Old 04-05-2009, 11:51 AM
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Tire wear

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  #23  
Old 04-25-2009, 03:47 PM
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Z4 Weight distribution

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  #24  
Old 09-09-2010, 01:18 PM
Ladd42 Ladd42 is offline
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I am searching for a good repairmen in NE-Central Florida for a Z4, do we have any BMW owners near me that I may speak with? Thanks
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  #25  
Old 09-11-2010, 10:21 PM
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Ron Stygar Ron Stygar is offline
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Ms s70

Both the same.

MS S70, Z4-M:



MS S54, E46 - M3:

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