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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki |
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#1
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Repairing Power Seat Switch-DIY
So the switch for the power seat snapped off and I figured it was going to be a "cheap" fix with a new plastic stud from BMW. Well no, the little plastic stud is part of the whole switching control box and costs a bundle. I tried to glue it back together but it was like building a ship inside a bottle so I decided to open'er'up and try to do a better fix. First thing, remove the switch covers. They pull straight out. Don't twist! You'll have to take the side trim panel of the seat off. This photo is looking from the driver's footwell. You need to pop out a plastic clip (that took a lot more force than I thought!) and undo a torx screw. There's another plastic clip on the back of the seat but it's possible to access everything without having to pop that one out. The switching control box is clipped to the trim panel and is plugged into the actuators. Disconnect the plug and unclip the control box. And this is what it looks like. I took the picture after I fixed it so both studs are complete. This is the toughest part of the job. To open the box up you have to flip open all 8 plastic clips simultaneously and pry the box open. Thankfully there's no glue. I used bits of cut up plastic to hold each clip open and then used a thin screwdriver to pry the box open. |
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#2
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Part II
After you have the cover off you still have to pry up the clips on the brass plate to expose the studs.
Backside. Backside without brass plate. This is what everything looks like taken apart. Then it's a simple matter of using some crazy glue and fixing the broken stud. I got a little cocky and though I would reinforce the stud by filling it up with urethane sealant. Big mistake! The stud has to be hollow to fit back together. Thank god for Dremel tools. Reassembly is a two minute job. Much much easier than the disassembly. I used a dab of vasoline on the plastic to plastic parts to reduce friction and hopefully lesson any stress on those studs. I also switched the two studs (which are identical) so the repaired stud is on the less often used backrest adjustment. Oh and one more thing. Your seat won't move if the control box is out, the seat memory buttons won't work. So either make sure your seat is in its proper position or plan not to use your car until the job is finished. It should only take a half hour or so plus the time it takes for the glue to dry. Good luck! |
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#3
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Very nice write-up. I wish you had posted this a couple months ago. I just paid $250 for the dealer to do the job. Good to know there's another way
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#4
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Thanks.
It's kinda silly that the switch can't be fixed more easily. It's not an uncommon incident to kick the switch when entering the car in a tight parking spot and the $250 for a new switch is silly for a $0.50 piece of plastic. Hope it helps next time!
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#5
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did you leave the rear clip in and just bend back the plastic cover to expose the switch?
Did everything re-assemble properly when going this route? Any idea how to get that rear clip out if, say, you also wanted to replace the plastic cover?
__________________
z0lt3c Current: 2013 Ford Edge SEL AWD 2012 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4x4 Retired: 95 e36 M3/5spd, 96 328is/5spd, 97 540iA, 98 528iA, 01 X5 4.4iA, 03 325xiA, 04 530iA, 02 330Cic/5spd, 08 535xit |
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#6
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The rear clip is hard to access unless you take the back of the seat off. I tried prying the seatback off a little and all I got was some loose change.
Considering the front clip took so much force, I didn't want to risk breaking the cover. If you had a "Y" fork to remove those clips it would probably be a lot easier.Besides, you can access the switch with only the front fasteners removed. I moved the seat up all the way to give better access. The whole thing goes together super easy, no problem. |
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#7
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Worked Like a Charm!
Awesome post...I kicked my fore/aft/up/down button off this evening as I was getting out of my 03 540 and it broke the peg inside the switch at the base. When I saw it was going to cost $250 to fix at the dealer, I did a search in this forum and found this post. Thank you for posting step-by-step pics...I'm not the handiest person in the world, yet with this guide, was able to repair my switch in about 45 minutes. Well done.
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#8
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Thanks, I say spread the wealth (of knowledge.)
Coincidentally, I thought I might have to look this post up myself. The hotel valet returned my car with the switch cover knocked off this weekend. Luckily no intervention was necessary. |
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#9
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I've got the same problem but don't have the plastic bit to glue back on. I was thinking of getting some rubber hose with an OD the same as the switch cover and an ID the same as the white plastic thingy. Hopefully it'll work
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#10
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put it together and add it to the FAQ please. good info!
__________________
americandan.com
![]() ![]() ![]() It takes a lot of work to be lazy. |
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#11
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There's already a link to this thread but I'll do some cutting and pasting.
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#12
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http://www.koperformance.com/
they have just the outer plastic part of that switch here for like 9 bucks.such a nice site to shop for parts like these.cheap too |
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#13
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Fixed mine now.
When I got the car I only had the white piece sticking out the side of the seat; no switch cover or piece of rubber covering. Got the switch cover for about NZ$12 (so about US$9) from the local BMW dealer, then went into my local marine shop and got a piece of rubber tubing that just squeezed into the switch cover. Rubber is ~8mm outside diameter and ~5mm inside diameter. Cut to length and push fit. Cost of rubber hose NZ$1. Works very well and takes a decent amount of force to pull the switch cover off. So total cost about US$10 and less than 30 seconds to cut rubber to length and fit. If you're intelligent enough to know how to breathe then you should be able to do it yourself. Only tool needed was a Stanley knife to cut the rubber to length |
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#14
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HELP!
I attempted to do this DIY. When I went to try and pry the control box open a bunch of springs and rods came flying out. ![]() My control box looks completely different from the OP's. Anyone have a diagram of how the springs and rods are supposed to be put back in? ![]() I would have taken pictures but my both my digital cameras have been stolen within the past month! ![]() ![]()
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#15
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Any update on this? Did the 3D printed version work?
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