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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > Z Series > E36/7 Z3 (1996-2002)

E36/7 Z3 (1996-2002)
E36/7 Z3 Roadster, Z3 coupe, Z3 M Roadster and Z3 M Coupe talk with our gurus here.

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  #1  
Old 09-22-2009, 01:18 PM
blueshark00 blueshark00 is offline
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Location: San Antonio, TX
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 4
Mein Auto: 2000 M Roadster
Smile Z3 - 2000 M Roadster purchase

Greetings and salutations,

I recently purchased a 00 M Roadster with 31k miles on the clock and I have a couple of noob questions.

1.) 1-2 shifts seem mighty stiff and when I shift real sporty like it bangs a bit, is that normal? My dealer says I have a cracked guibo joint so I thought that might be the culprit on the thump but not the stiff shifter.

2.) I hear a rattle coming from the middle of the rear cabin only when the top is up I thought it was the factory mesh wind deflector thing but it's not. The rattle is essentially constant unless I were to be driving on something smoother than glass.

3.) My dealer spoke of a fuel injector service and a brake fluid flush and I'm wondering if this is a money maker for them or I really needed it. He also let me know that my valve cover gasket is bad and he would be happy to fix it for 895.00 plus tax.

4.) When the top is down and the suspension flexes I get some rather loud squeeks is there a service procedure for this or do I need some new bushings.

5.) My seats slide foward and back like an inch or 2 when I stop and accelerate. I have read the post on fixing the bushings but I'm worried that it's something more than that.

I know this is alot for 1 post but I paid a pretty penny for this roadster and really want to enjoy it's full potential so any help is greatly appreciated.
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  #2  
Old 09-22-2009, 02:13 PM
Doc Holliday Doc Holliday is offline
Still Cruisin'
Location: Kansas City MO
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 413
Mein Auto: 2003 325xi, 2001 Z3 3.0
Quote:
Originally Posted by blueshark00 View Post
Greetings and salutations,

I recently purchased a 00 M Roadster with 31k miles on the clock and I have a couple of noob questions.

1.) 1-2 shifts seem mighty stiff and when I shift real sporty like it bangs a bit, is that normal? My dealer says I have a cracked guibo joint so I thought that might be the culprit on the thump but not the stiff shifter.

2.) I hear a rattle coming from the middle of the rear cabin only when the top is up I thought it was the factory mesh wind deflector thing but it's not. The rattle is essentially constant unless I were to be driving on something smoother than glass.

3.) My dealer spoke of a fuel injector service and a brake fluid flush and I'm wondering if this is a money maker for them or I really needed it. He also let me know that my valve cover gasket is bad and he would be happy to fix it for 895.00 plus tax.

4.) When the top is down and the suspension flexes I get some rather loud squeeks is there a service procedure for this or do I need some new bushings.

5.) My seats slide foward and back like an inch or 2 when I stop and accelerate. I have read the post on fixing the bushings but I'm worried that it's something more than that.

I know this is alot for 1 post but I paid a pretty penny for this roadster and really want to enjoy it's full potential so any help is greatly appreciated.
Hard to say on some of this, but for starters, this car is long out of warranty. Do not take it to a stealership. Find a good independent and take it the him.
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  #3  
Old 09-22-2009, 02:24 PM
blueshark00 blueshark00 is offline
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Location: San Antonio, TX
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 4
Mein Auto: 2000 M Roadster
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc Holliday View Post
Hard to say on some of this, but for starters, this car is long out of warranty. Do not take it to a stealership. Find a good independent and take it the him.
I bought an extended warranty from my credit union for $1,200.00 it covers me for 24 months or 24k miles and actually it's pretty extensive, basically bumper to bumper except for the radio so when I take it to the dealer I only pay 50.00 but they don't cover things like squeaks and rattles.
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  #4  
Old 09-22-2009, 02:35 PM
Doc Holliday Doc Holliday is offline
Still Cruisin'
Location: Kansas City MO
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 413
Mein Auto: 2003 325xi, 2001 Z3 3.0
Quote:
Originally Posted by blueshark00 View Post
I bought an extended warranty from my credit union for $1,200.00 it covers me for 24 months or 24k miles and actually it's pretty extensive, basically bumper to bumper except for the radio so when I take it to the dealer I only pay 50.00 but they don't cover things like squeaks and rattles.
Or valve cover gaskets, right?

You have to take it to a dealer? Not a good independent shop.

You'd save whoever is paying your warranty lots of money.

I'm surprised that you can buy a warranty on a 9 year old car.
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  #5  
Old 09-22-2009, 02:33 PM
pwrdbym pwrdbym is offline
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Location: OKC, OK
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 104
Mein Auto: 06 Z4MR, 99 Z3 MC, 85 M6
Congrats on the new purchase.
One of my rules of used car buying is to bring the car home and change all of the fluids. It is likely that they haven't been changed (except oil) and once you re-fill you can be certain that the fluids are correct.
As for the shifting, if the flex disc is cracked it will continue to get worse. Replacing it is simple and the part is less than $100. You should also try changing out the tranny fluid to Red Line MTL.

As for the noises in the rear...it could be several things, but the rear shock mounts are suspect and should be checked and replaced if needed (Rouge).

The seat sliding is the bushing, a very cheap part but a pain to replace. I wouldn't worry about it being something else, that issue is common.

I'm not sure that a "fuel injector service" is needed, you can get the same thing with some fuel additive and the brake flushing is very easy to do yourself.

Honestly you can save a ton of money doing these things yourself, most with simple hand tools. I would urge you to purchase a Bentley manual on the car and attempt to tackle some of these items. If you are unsure of a procedure, check the forum for a DIY, ask the question, or even ask if there is a member in your area that can help. Remember to check the regional forums as well.
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  #6  
Old 09-22-2009, 02:41 PM
blueshark00 blueshark00 is offline
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Location: San Antonio, TX
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 4
Mein Auto: 2000 M Roadster
Quote:
Originally Posted by pwrdbym View Post
Congrats on the new purchase.
One of my rules of used car buying is to bring the car home and change all of the fluids. It is likely that they haven't been changed (except oil) and once you re-fill you can be certain that the fluids are correct.
As for the shifting, if the flex disc is cracked it will continue to get worse. Replacing it is simple and the part is less than $100. You should also try changing out the tranny fluid to Red Line MTL.

As for the noises in the rear...it could be several things, but the rear shock mounts are suspect and should be checked and replaced if needed (Rouge).

The seat sliding is the bushing, a very cheap part but a pain to replace. I wouldn't worry about it being something else, that issue is common.

I'm not sure that a "fuel injector service" is needed, you can get the same thing with some fuel additive and the brake flushing is very easy to do yourself.

Honestly you can save a ton of money doing these things yourself, most with simple hand tools. I would urge you to purchase a Bentley manual on the car and attempt to tackle some of these items. If you are unsure of a procedure, check the forum for a DIY, ask the question, or even ask if there is a member in your area that can help. Remember to check the regional forums as well.
Thanks for all the info...I was worried that it was something else in the seats, as for the rattle in the cockpit any suggestions?
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  #7  
Old 09-22-2009, 03:30 PM
reidconti reidconti is offline
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Location: Belmont, CA
 
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Mein Auto: Clownshoe,Miata,WeeStrom
Any rattle/squeak/noise could be related to RSMs or (worst case scenario) trunk floor tearing. 1-2 shift bang could be from this too, or the guibo. But yes, these cars are a bit tough to shift smoothly between 1st and second.

Also check your lower shock bolts. That's an easy 10 second job, grab a ~19mm (?) wrench, snug down the bolt that attaches the shock to the rear wheel hub bits. No jack required, just lay on the ground.
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  #8  
Old 09-23-2009, 01:36 PM
blueshark00 blueshark00 is offline
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Location: San Antonio, TX
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 4
Mein Auto: 2000 M Roadster
In regards to the rear shock mounts and the spot welds is this something that would be covered under an extended warranty? I really think the company I bought the warranty from is about to get the **** end of the stick when I bring it into BMW for a guibo, valve cover gasket, and some rear shock mounts. As for the seat bushings I'm fixin to replace those myself from whalen shift machine and do the seat belt guide at the same time.
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