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E46 (1999 - 2006)
The fourth generation 3 Series (E46 chassis) was introduced in 1999 and set the standard for engineering and performance during it's years of production including being named to Car & Driver's 10 best list every one of those years! ! -- View the E46 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 07-24-2010, 08:46 PM
Starless Starless is offline
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Arrow DIY: FSU (aka Blower Motor Resistor) replacement pictorial guide

It was my turn to replace the FSU (blower motor resistor). I just got tired of the pulsating pattern of the blower and its shutting off on its own accord. It is especially frustrating in the 100F degrees St. Louis weather. I ordered the part through one of my favorite sites: www.eeuroparts.com that has great prices and both OE and aftermarket parts. The FSU is made by Behr (OEM). The cost was $59.99 shipped. It took an hour to install and it was a pain in the neck (literally) due to its location under the dash. If you have problems with your back/neck/shoulders Iíd recommend to delegate this repair to a shop technician (hopefully without these problems). You have to spend some time in the area below the glove box on your back and side with your legs on the passenger seat. There is simply no other way.

The DIY is in the pictures. Sorry if I missed something. But thatís just pretty much the way I did it. Iíll just mention it here one more time that I did not find it necessary to remove the air duct and control motor to get to the resistor like some other diys suggest. Of course it will make things a little easier but will take more time. And I did not want to spend more time on the 95F degrees evening sweating in the footwell of the car. So here is the pictorial guide:





















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  #2  
Old 07-24-2010, 09:03 PM
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Solidjake Solidjake is offline
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Very nice as always. Thanks.
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  #3  
Old 07-25-2010, 03:23 AM
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mawana mawana is offline
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Very clear and cleanly done! I will definitely come back to this when it's time.
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  #4  
Old 07-25-2010, 07:40 AM
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marinekilz marinekilz is offline
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Very nice work, enjoy all your constant cool air this summer
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  #5  
Old 07-25-2010, 09:01 AM
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Thank you! And bookmarked!
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  #6  
Old 07-25-2010, 10:05 AM
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I vote for a new title of Chief DIY Illustration Guru.

Great job as always...thank you.
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  #7  
Old 07-25-2010, 12:34 PM
Starless Starless is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P_T View Post
I vote for a new title of Chief DIY Illustration Guru.

Great job as always...thank you.
Haha, I just like to take pictures of my repairs when they come up

Thanks everybody for comments. I'll need to include some other good FSU links for those who decide to remove the air duct. It's a couple of extra steps from what I've read.
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  #8  
Old 12-18-2011, 08:59 PM
bobbiejohn bobbiejohn is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Starless View Post
Haha, I just like to take pictures of my repairs when they come up

Thanks everybody for comments. I'll need to include some other good FSU links for those who decide to remove the air duct. It's a couple of extra steps from what I've read.
Starless,

Thanks for the innformation on the FSU. I had the ssame thing happen to me with my CFO in the car on the way to the airport!

I'm also from St. Louis. Do you have an indie place that you use for serious repairs? Dealer is way expensive!
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  #9  
Old 12-18-2011, 09:31 PM
Starless Starless is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobbiejohn View Post
Starless,

Thanks for the innformation on the FSU. I had the ssame thing happen to me with my CFO in the car on the way to the airport!

I'm also from St. Louis. Do you have an indie place that you use for serious repairs? Dealer is way expensive!
Bavarian is an awesome indie shop. Reasonable rates, honest knowledgeable mechanics. Can be opinionated about certain things and stubborn, but I have yet to see a mechanic who would not be... They have 2 locations now, in Olivette and in Manchester. Highly recommend them. They have a very good reputation in stl.
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  #10  
Old 07-25-2010, 02:05 PM
C-Bear C-Bear is offline
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To the wiki we go?
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  #11  
Old 07-25-2010, 03:40 PM
Starless Starless is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C-Bear View Post
To the wiki we go?
I'll link it there later Thanks!

New FSU definitely solved the pulsating/interrupted air stream problem. Cause it started getting annoying...A lot of maintenance still ahead...
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  #12  
Old 03-07-2011, 09:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Starless View Post
I'll link it there later Thanks!

New FSU definitely solved the pulsating/interrupted air stream problem. Cause it started getting annoying...A lot of maintenance still ahead...
Mine started having the same problem on startup...I can hear the fan speed pulsating, and then it will work ok....wonder if its the same problem...
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  #13  
Old 03-15-2011, 05:22 PM
BlackThunder BlackThunder is offline
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Is there anybody that had the case that a faulty blower motor caused a faulty FSU blower motor resistor? I am asking because I am suspicious that blower motor would be in bad shape or the fuse for the blower motor was replaced and upgraded to a higher fuse capacity (ie. from 20amp to 40amp) just to keep the blower running.
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  #14  
Old 03-15-2011, 08:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackThunder View Post
Is there anybody that had the case that a faulty blower motor caused a faulty FSU blower motor resistor? I am asking because I am suspicious that blower motor would be in bad shape or the fuse for the blower motor was replaced and upgraded to a higher fuse capacity (ie. from 20amp to 40amp) just to keep the blower running.
I don't know fact but there have been MANY who 'suspected' the blower motor actually blew the FSU (in some cases, multiple FSUs).

For example, see this from a couple days ago (03-11-2011):
- Heater motor issues?
Quote:
I have replaced the 'FSU' 3 times now. The garage says the 'FSU' is OK and that the 'heater motor' is broken and that the 'heater motor' destroys the 'FSU'.
In the the VERY best of E39 Links, you'll find more details:

- FAN CONTROL GOES HAYWIRE: poorly ventilated final stage resistor/final stage unit (FSR/FSU) modules that are practically sure to go haywire due to poor heat-sink design (1) (2) (3) (4) (5) (6) (7) (8) ... Autopsy (1) (2) often causing the battery to drain overnight (1) (2) (3) & how to isolate and replace the blower motor (1) (2) (3) (4)
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  #15  
Old 04-20-2011, 08:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fifty_Cent View Post
Mine started having the same problem on startup...I can hear the fan speed pulsating, and then it will work ok....wonder if its the same problem...
So is this BEHR product a good part to change the oem with?
Blower Motor Resistor (Final Stage Unit) for BMW vehicles

*******>********>
Zoom in

Name: Blower Motor Resistor (Final Stage Unit)
Part Code: 64 11 6 920 365
Brand:
Description: A/C Heater blower motor resistor (aka final stage unit).


Price: $64.90


Quantity: ******* style="WIDTH: 30px" id=ctl00_Zone1_tbQuantity value=1 maxLength=3 name=ctl00$Zone1$tbQuantity>******* style="BORDER-RIGHT-WIDTH: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 10px; BORDER-TOP-WIDTH: 0px; BORDER-BOTTOM-WIDTH: 0px; BORDER-LEFT-WIDTH: 0px" id=ctl00_Zone1_btnAddToCart alt="Add to Shopping Cart" align=absMiddle src="../App_Themes/default/Images/btnAddToCart.gif" type=image name=ctl00$Zone1$btnAddToCart>
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  #16  
Old 04-20-2011, 04:23 PM
Starless Starless is offline
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^^^ Yes, the BEHR unit part # ending in 0365 is a good FSU.
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  #17  
Old 07-25-2010, 03:34 PM
maviduya maviduya is offline
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starless,

i've replaced the fuse for the blower motor three times today and the only DIY that i did was to disconnect the power window motor on the front passenger side. i've checked all the wires in that door and none are exposed.

i'd like to confirm that a faulty blower resistor pack (aka FSU) would lead to multiple blown fuses...

more background material: the lights on the IHKA panel turn on with the key in the pre-ignition position...just no air from the vents...

thank you in advance!

mark @ san antonio
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  #18  
Old 07-25-2010, 03:47 PM
Starless Starless is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maviduya View Post
starless,

i've replaced the fuse for the blower motor three times today and the only DIY that i did was to disconnect the power window motor on the front passenger side. i've checked all the wires in that door and none are exposed.

i'd like to confirm that a faulty blower resistor pack (aka FSU) would lead to multiple blown fuses...

more background material: the lights on the IHKA panel turn on with the key in the pre-ignition position...just no air from the vents...
thank you in advance!

mark @ san antonio
Not sure about fuses, mine never blew...
The IHKA lights working and no air is definitely the FSU. Is it only with the key in pre ignition? What about when the car is running?
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  #19  
Old 07-25-2010, 04:06 PM
akhbhaat akhbhaat is offline
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I performed this job in my old 323i, and this is really a top shelf DIY. The photos and description are excellent. Nice work.

Hopefully, you won't have to worry about this again. The FSU design was revised twice, I believe. All I can tell you is that my 2005 got the newest version of the part from the factory and has not once had FSU issues even at 5.5 yrs/62k miles, whereas my 323i had it twice in 7 years/75k miles (first at 2.75 years/20k miles, second at 7 years/75k miles). I do believe the part installed during the first repair was the same as the original, because I don't think it had yet been revised even once at that point.
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  #20  
Old 07-25-2010, 04:46 PM
maviduya maviduya is offline
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both...

starless,

you asked: "Is it only with the key in pre ignition? What about when the car is running?"

answer: BOTH...the fuse blows when i turn on the A/C in pre-ignition AND when i turn on the A/C when the engine is running.

thanks!

mark
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  #21  
Old 07-25-2010, 08:02 PM
Starless Starless is offline
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Is it fuse 28?

Quote:
Originally Posted by maviduya View Post
starless,

you asked: "Is it only with the key in pre ignition? What about when the car is running?"

answer: BOTH...the fuse blows when i turn on the A/C in pre-ignition AND when i turn on the A/C when the engine is running.

thanks!

mark
Mark, there is a BMW TSB concerning your problem. Here is the link:

http://www.bmwtis.com/tsb/bulletins/...p/B641005g.htm

So, I'd research the "e-box fan" version discussed in the document.

Also, read these threads on e46F:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/search....rchid=15113165

One guy in the thread below claims that FSU solved his blown fuse problem:

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=687597

Keep us updated!

EDIT: In TSB I believe they are talking about part # 5 in this diagram:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...=12&fg=35&hl=3

Part #5 cover with blower. There are 2 part #s, one for manual , second for autos.

And IF this is indeed the cause of the short, then this thread has instructions how to change the "e-box fan"

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=291383

Last edited by Starless; 07-25-2010 at 09:22 PM.
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  #22  
Old 07-25-2010, 10:06 PM
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jcatral14 jcatral14 is offline
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Thanks for taking the time to put this together Alex. Excellent DIY

Quote:
Originally Posted by akhbhaat View Post
...2005 got the newest version of the part from the factory and has not once had FSU issues even at 5.5 yrs/62k miles...
Great news
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  #23  
Old 07-26-2010, 03:12 AM
maviduya maviduya is offline
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stupid mistake...

starless,

i discovered the reason for my problem...remember how i said that i worked on the passenger power window? the fuses that control window lift are #48 and #49. the fuse that kept blowing was #50.

#49 is supposed to have a 5 amp fuse and #50 a 40 amp fuse...

here's what happened: when finishing up with the DIY on the window, i transposed the fuses...i put the 5 amp fuse in #50 and the 40 amp fuse in #49.

i discovered this when, as a last-ditch effort before ordering the resistor pack, i checked each and every fuse for correct amperage.

THANK YOU for sticking this out with me and for answering my questions...

naturally, i feel really dumb...next time, i'll be more careful...

mark @ san antonio
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  #24  
Old 07-26-2010, 12:35 PM
Alex Phillips Alex Phillips is offline
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Starless,

I have had a problem with the AC/Heater air flow being inconsistent when the fan speed is in the middle range (not low and not high). The AC airflow seems to be like a rollercoaster almost shutting off and then revving up a little when in the middle range.

Could this be the blower motor resistor? If it is, I'd like to DIY. Your instruction guide looks very good. My car has almost 90k and is 8 years old.
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  #25  
Old 07-26-2010, 01:01 PM
Starless Starless is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex Phillips View Post
Starless,

I have had a problem with the AC/Heater air flow being inconsistent when the fan speed is in the middle range (not low and not high). The AC airflow seems to be like a rollercoaster almost shutting off and then revving up a little when in the middle range.

Could this be the blower motor resistor? If it is, I'd like to DIY. Your instruction guide looks very good. My car has almost 90k and is 8 years old.
Alex, yes, this is your blower motor resistor for sure. Classical symptoms. Let me know if you have any questions how to diy.
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