Recommended parts kits for overhauling cooling, drive belts, CCV/ICV, VANOS, OFH, PSP

This is not asking for a DIY ... it's asking for a recommended parts list for the following 7 systems (interrelated as to the PIA parts that need to be removed).
- Drive belt system recommended parts list kit
- Cooling system recommended parts list kit
- Crankcase ventilation valve (CCV) recommended parts list kit
- Idle control valve (ICV) recommended parts list kit
- Oil filter housing (OFH) leak recommended parts list kit
- Power steering pump (PSP) fluid reservoir recommended parts list kit
- Variable valve timing (VANOS) recommended parts list kit

Rationale: This week, I needed a tow and had to buy parts in a hurry and rip an alternator out in a frenzied rush ... so I already lost my opportunity to get the right parts for a decent overhaul of easy to get to stuff once the alternator, fan, fan, tensioners, pulleys, airbox, etc. were already removed. If I had this list of related parts, I wouldn't have to do the PIA removal twice.

I realize each DIY has a slightly different recommended tools and parts list ... and I realize some "mod" the car (i.e., aluminum radiators, special coolants, special thermostats, aluminum thermostat housings, etc.) but if we keep THIS LIST to just the recommended 1:1 replacement, I feel it will be very helpful to many (including me) in the future.

In fact, if I had that earlier this week, I would have already ordered all my cooling system components, for example, instead of being scared by indecision of not knowing WHAT to get and what brand, and ending up with nothing to show for all that indecision.

EDIT: This is the general recommendation on MIXING jobs:
1. Do a complete cooling system overhaul at ~75K miles
2. Do a complete VANOS seals overhaul at ~75K miles (for the I6)
3. Do a complete belt-drive system overhaul at ~75K miles
4. Do a CCV replacement at ~100K miles

A. It's common to mix the cooling system & belt drive overhauls as the same parts are removed
B. It's common to add power steering hose check/fix & oil filter housing gasket check/fix to the belt-drive overhaul
C. It's common to add a spark-plug replacement with the VANOS seals as the same parts are removed
D. It's common to do the CCV all by itself as it is the more difficult of the three jobs
E. Plan ahead by stocking alternator rebuild parts; but if your alternator unexpectedly goes south, do the entire belt drive system at the same time as the alternator.

Here is what I think is the typical recommended special tools and parts list for a drive-belt system overhaul (please correct any errors or omissions):

RECOMMENDED BELT-DRIVE SYSTEM PARTS LIST:
- alternator/ps/wp drive belt (CRP-Contitech)
- A/C compressor drive belt (CRP-Contitech)
- idler roller (INA is OEM, can also get SKF)
- A/C belt tensioner (INA is OEM, can also get SKF or Ruville or Lemfoerder)
- alternator/ps/wp belt tensioner (INA is OEM, can also get SKF, Ruville, or Lemfoerder)
- alternator, 120Amp (Bosch and Valeo are OEM; replace yours with the same as you're taking out)
- viscious fan clutch (Behr is OEM, Sachs is recommended brand, MFC is not recommended)
- ??? anything else ???

TOOLS:
- Dialectric grease for the O-ring on water-cooled alternators only
- 32mm long (~16 inches) thin (~4mm) viscous fan wrench (EBAY, Harbor Freight Tools, Northern Tools, Pelican Parts, Technitool)
- Fan hub bolt counterhold tool, 45mm hole spacing (I6) or 38mm hole spacing (V8) aka fan nut counterhold tool (EBAY, Samsung Tools, Pelican, Technitool)
- 24mm hollow thin socket alternator pulley nut removal tool (only needed if new/rebuilt alternator doesn't have pulley attached)
- Big Fine Hammer, sometimes needed on the fan nut, especially if you don't have the counterhold tool (OSH, Home Depot, ACE)
Note: You can use a screwdriver or make your own counterhold tools for $10 as per the CAD diagrams in this thread.
Note: The BMW 32mm tool (which nobody seems to get, P/N 11 5 040) has an attachment for a torque wrench (but most people don't worry about torque because it's a left-hand thread and the fan spins the other way).
Note: The I6 uses a 45mm spacing tool; old BMW P/N 88.88.6.115.030; new BMW P/N 83.30.0.491.046.
Note: The V8 uses a 38mm spacing tool; old BMW P/N 88.88.6.115.050; new BMW P/N 83.30.0.491.048.
Note: Consider the EBAY fan nut counterhold tool which has the I6 spacing on one end and the V8 spacing on the other.
Note: Edjack implies V8 owners need a recessed counterhold tool for some V8s; so doublecheck here if necessary.
Note: Sometimes the new/rebuilt alternator doesn't come with the pulley so you have to remove yours; most people use a 32mm impact wrench; but BMW sells a specific "hollow thin walled" 24mm socket for this, BMW P/N 12 7 100.
- ??? anything else ???

NOTES:
Note 1: The ONLY way to know if you have mechanical spring or so-called hydraulic piston tensioners is to look; you can even have one of each. No VIN lookup will help you. DO NOT GUESS!
Note 2: You can change from mechanical to hydraulic belt tensioners; but you'll need an additional parts kit.
Note 3: If you plan ahead, you can rebuild the alternator for a fraction of the cost of a remanufactured one; and you'll be sure to have quality bearings.
Note 4: If you are handy, you can make your own fan clutch bolt counterhold tool; just follow the plans outlined in this tool-making DIY.
Note 5: I'm confused but I think the hydraulic tensioners come without the pulley while the mechanical tensioners come with the pulley; I don't know if you can get the pulleys separate from the mechanical tensioners (please correct what I mis-state).

Here is what I think is the typical recommended special tools and parts list for a 1:1 cooling system overhaul (please correct any errors or omissions):

FLUIDS:
- 1 gallon BMW antifreeze (~$20/gallon)
- 1 gallon distilled water
- 1 small can of dialectric grease (for electrical connections) (~$5)
Notes:
a. BMW recommends phosphate/amine & nitrite/nitrate free & low silicate or silicate free coolant (e.g., BMW, Valvoline Zerex G-05, or Prestone Extended Life 5/150).
b. You can "mod" the fluid (e.g., Evans NPG+); but let's keep this list mostly mainstream.
c. A complete cooling system flush will use up to 1.5 gallons of coolant and 1.5 of distilled water; but most seem to get away with a gallon somehow.

TOOLS:
- 32mm long & thin viscous fan wrench (EBAY, Harbor Freight Tools, Northern Tools, Pelican Parts, Technitool)
- Fan hub counterhold tool (EBAY, Samsung Tools, Pelican, Technitool)
- Mallet (sometimes needed on the fan nut, especially if you don't have the counterhold tool)
Notes:
a. These tools are recommended, but you can use a screwdriver or make your own counterhold tools for $10 as per the CAD diagrams in this thread.
b. The I6 uses a 45mm spacing counterhold tool; old BMW P/N 88.88.6.115.030; new BMW P/N 83.30.0.491.046 (most people buy EBAY or tool supplier, not BMW).
c. The V8 uses a 38mm spacing counterhold tool; old BMW P/N 88.88.6.115.050; new BMW P/N 83.30.0.491.048 (most people buy EBAY or tool supplier, not BMW).
d. Consider the EBAY fan nut counterhold tool that I have which has the I6 spacing on one end and the V8 spacing on the other.
e. The BMW 32mm tool (which nobody seems to get from BMW, P/N 11 5 040) has an attachment for a torque wrench; but few torque the fan nut anyway.
f. Technically a 1 1/4" wrench is the same size as a 32mm wrench so check your toolbox (it has to be at least 16" long and preferably < 8mm thick); mine is 4mm thick.

REMOVAL OF FAN SHROUD:
- 1 fuel-line type solid hose clamp for 1/4" ID hoses, 25mm to 40mm (~$1), (Oetiker, Norma)
- 1 radiator nipple, PN 17.11.0.419.132 (~$3); if you're not replacing the radiator, this is a recommended spare part as it very often breaks.
Notes:
a. It's common to break the fan shroud seal that surrounds the expansion tank bleeder screw; keep a spare handy (PN 17 11 1 723 580).
b. It's less common to find the two fan shroud 8mm shell, 1mm rivets missing (~$0.25 each); consider a spare set (PN 17 11 1 712 963).
c. The only hose clamp needed for the entire cooling system overhaul is this expansion tank to radiator nipple hose clamp.

EXPANSION TANK & HOSES:
- 1 expansion tank (~60 to $75); (Nissens (if available) or Behr).
- 1 expansion tank cap (~$12) (the cap does NOT come with the new expansion tank).
Optional:
- 1 expansion tank mounting clip (~$2) (this is the clip which goes around the bleeder screw; it often breaks when removing it so keep a spare handy) (Behr, or MTC).
- 2 fuel-line-style solid hose clamps (one for each end of the thin hose at the top of the expansion tank)
Notes:
a. Only the top (stick) half of the level sensor comes the expansion tank; the bottom (electromagnetic) half of the level sensor generally doesn't go bad and can be re-used.
b. Optionally, you can pick up the electromagnetic coolant level sensor (which plugs into the bottom of the expansion tank to mate with the mechanical (stick) level indication).
c. The expansion tank comes with a plastic bleeder screw (~$2) prone to breaking in half; consider replacing with (~$4) brass aftermarket screws (same size as upper hose screw).
d. There are three hoses emanating from the expansion tank (one on the top, two on the bottom); most don't replace them unless they're obviously worn.

RADIATOR & HOSES:
- 1 radiator, ~$150 (manual trans) to $200 (auto trans) (most prefer Nissens over the OES Behr; personally I don't see any reason to reward Behr for making the lousy OEM radiators by buying from them again if you don't have to)
- 1 upper radiator hose, ~$40, (Elaplast or CRP-Contitech but not Uro).
- 1 lower radiator hose, ~$20, (Elaplast or CRP-Contitech).
- 1 temperature sensor ~$20 to $30, a new sensor comes with a new o-ring. (FAE)
- 1 zip tie, about 8 to 10 inches long (ties a plastic wiring harness to the upper radiator hose)
Notes:
a. The new radiator comes with the expansion tank top hose nipple so the nipple part number isn't listed in the REALOEM diagrams.
b. If you're working on the fan shroud, it's common to break this nipple; keep a spare handy (PN 17.11.0.419.132).
c. The upper radiator hose comes with a plastic bleeder screw prone to breaking in half; consider replacing with brass aftermarket screws (same size as expansion tank screw).
d. The lower radiator hose does NOT come with the temperature sensor; so if you re-use your old temp sensor, buy a new 8mmIDx3mm thick O ring (PN 13 62 1 743 299).
e. You can "mod" the radiator by going all metal (e.g., Zionsville); but this post is about the typical recommended replacement parts.
f. The radiator comes with the blue radiator drain plug.

THERMOSTAT & HOSES:
- 1 mechanical (up to and including 1998) (~$100) or electrically heated thermostat (1999-2003) (Wahler) with O-ring gasket (~$2)
- 1 housing for the mechanical thermostat (not needed for the electrically-heated thermostat) with O-ring gasket (~$2)
Notes:
a. You can "mod" the mechanical thermostat housing by going all aluminum; but make sure your mating surfaces are precisely flat.
b. RTV or thermostat gasket/seal for thermostat housing (e.g., Goetze) is not needed nor recommended.
c. The electrically heated thermostat is integral with the plastic housing so you do not need a separate thermostat housing.
d. Some people mod their thermostat by going with a lower temperature and/or by drilling air-bypass holes in the thermostat.

WATER PUMP:
- 1 water pump (~$125 to $150) with o-ring ($3), (lots of debate ... Hepu & Graf are good, GMB is BMW OEM, GEMP/Stewart is high end)
Notes:
a. Optionally you can replace the glass-filled plastic water pump pulley ($25); but most replace only if damaged.
b. Having said that, those who use a BFH and just the 32mm wrench often damage the pulley; so either buy the pulley holder or keep a spare pulley handy before you start the job (lesson learned ... see details below).
b. Optionally you can replace the 4 water pump pulley bolts; but most replace only if damaged.
c. Optionally you can replace the 4 water pump pulley nuts; but most replace only if damaged.
d. There is intense argument about water pumps, mostly about plastic versus metal impellers and long life.

FAN:
- 1 fan clutch ~75 to ~125, (Behr or Fichtel-Sachs, maybe even ACM; but not MTC, Mission Trading Company)
Notes:
a. The viscous fan clutch and the plastic blades are two different parts; most replace the clutch; some replace the fan blades.
b. Optionally replace the fan blades (~$40 to $60); but most replace only if damaged (Behr OEM, Febi-Bilstein, or Meyle, or ACM)

ENGINE BLOCK:
- There are no recommended parts for the engine block; but see optional parts below:
Notes:
- Optionally, on older E39s, if you flush, you may require 1 engine block water drain plug (see cn90 cooling system overhaul DIY)
- Optionally, on older E39s, if you flush, you may require 1 engine block water drain plug washer (see cn90 cooling overhaul DIY)

ODDS & ENDS (most of which were covered in specific sections above):
- Extra radiator nipples (BMW PN 17.11.0.419.132).
- Extra green coolant temperature sensor o-Rings 8mmIDx3mmthick (BMW PN 13.62.1.743.299).
- Extra fan shroud rivets for 8mm holes (BMW PN 17.11.1.712.963).
- Extra brass bleeder screws (aftermarket), ~$4
- Extra fan shroud seal surrounding the expansion tank bleeder screw (PN 17 11 1 723 580).
- Extra hose clamp (fuel filter solid-band type, for ID 1/4")
- Extra 10-inch long zip ties (to secure plastic wiring harness to upper radiator hose)

EXAMPLE:
Here is a real-world example parts list from cn90 back in 2006 for a 1998 528i. Notice the choices made, the need for multiple suppliers, and the prices paid ... (YMMV).

1. From the BMW Dealer:
* Thermostat Plastic Housing (PN 11531740478) $28.00

2.From AutoHauzAZ http://[URL="http://www.autohausaz.com/"]www.Autohausaz.com:[/URL]
* Behr Thermostat 88°C (PN 11531721002) $17.00
- Note: The factory thermostat is 92°C, but I wanted it a bit cooler. Now the temperature gauge sits just a bit LEFT of the 12 o’clock position when warmed up.
* Radiator hoses (upper and lower): $9 and $7
* AC belt (5PK0906) $9
* WP-Alt-PS belt (6PK1560) $13
* Rollers x 2 (PN 11281748131) $17/each
- (for the AC belt and for between the crank and WP pulleys)
* Idler Roller (PN 11281738605) $23/each
(this sits between the WP and alternator pulleys)
* Hydraulic Tensioner (PN 11281717210) $39/each
(for the AC belt)
* Hydraulic Tensioner (PN 11281717188) $50/each
(for the roller between the crank and WP pulleys)
* Coolant Reservoir "Mounting Clip" (PN 17111723580) $2.20/each
* Fan Clutch by "Sachs" (PN 11521719269) $94/each
* Fan Blades by "BMW" (PN 11521712058) $45/each
* Radiator by "Nissens" (PN 17111702969) $173/each
(many people consider the Nissens to be better than the Behr radiator)
Bluebee note: Plus why reward Behr by buying ANOTHER of their radiators to replace the broken one!
* Bypass Hose from Radiator to Reservoir (PN 17111427156) $5.60/each
(This is also known as the reservoir overflow hose, which is located along the top of the radiator going from the reservoir nipple to the radiator nipple)

3. From BMW-Parts Direct http://[URL="http://www.bmw-parts-direct.com/"]www.bmw-parts-direct.com[/URL]
* Coolant Vent Screw (PN 17111712788) $2.80/each
* Reservoir Cap (PN 17111712669) $10.60/each
* Reservoir by OEM (PN 17111723520) $56/each
* Water Pump by "Hepu" (PN 11511740241) $67/each
The pump came with the o-ring. Based on research, the "Hepu" waterpump seems to be a bit better than the "Graf" or "Geba" (Graf and Geba seem to have leakage after 20-30K miles but I am not sure). The Volvo folks love the Hepu water pump so I went with "Hepu".

CORRECTIONS:
Please correct the errors/omissions in this list so we have a good starting point for the next person who needs a cooling system overhaul parts list.

Thanx, BlueBee! I haven't done this job yet but I appreciate you collecting all this info. It saves me a LOT of research time! Cooling system is on my to do list as I am almost to 80K.
From what I have read to date, a metal impeller is recommended for the water pump replacement. Available on a coupl of brands. I also recommend going the name brand route, vice saving a few $$ on eBay, for a critical system like cooling. Just not worth the risk vs. reward. For the fan tools, I use a standard 32mm wrench from HF. The full set costs ~$20 on sale and has many large sizes my Craftsman set was missing. Not very thin but it works fine and can take a beating (literally). For the holding tool, I made one using the dimensions in your earlier tool thread from the locking bar to my tool chest (who locks their tool chest?). Not particularly pretty but functional. I read one guy used his garage door opener connecting bar. Now that's innovative!

That's pretty much the limit of my contribution. Thanx again!

Originally Posted by Fudman

appreciate you collecting all this info. It saves me a LOT of research time!

I don't consider this list anywhere near correct yet. We still need help from everyone to flesh out the questions.

Because the list is still so bad, I couldn't order the right parts when I ordered the alternator parts earlier this week. Now, because of the lack of a good list (and me being scared of being stuck without the right part), I have to rip apart my engine TWICE.

All because we still don't (yet) have the "correct" list of 1:1 replacement recommendations. But we will ... if we work together on it.

Originally Posted by Fudman

a metal impeller is recommended for the water pump replacement.

I'm trying to list the most recommended replacement part. That's why I listed the Hepu (composite impeller) that Cam is happy with; yet I also listed the Stewart (metal impeller) which is pricey but many also recommend it (with the OEM GMB in the middle).

For the purpose of this thread, three ranges should suffice as it's supposed to be the most common recommended replacement part and brand.

Originally Posted by Fudman

I use a standard 32mm wrench from HF. The full set costs ~$20 on sale and has many large sizes my Craftsman set was missing.

I had to search to figure out what "HF" was (so I added "HF" to the BMW glossary so others would have it handy). I got my 32mm wrench and 45mm hole-spacing counterhold tool from EBAY, so, I'll list the top three as HF, EBAY, and Northern Tools (with a note with pointers for making your own).

How does that sound for a reasonable recommendation?

Originally Posted by Fudman

That's pretty much the limit of my contribution

No no no. You're not off the hook that easily.

You wrote the book on the CCV. I'm thoroughly confused about my CCV, whether I can tackle it with the hoses all attached but everything else out, and if I need to buy any parts or if we can just clean it.

May I ask you to either respond to the query about the CCV here ... or just post below what parts or tools one needs to do the right thing for their CCV while they are working on the cooling system and/or belt-drive system.

The first question should be: Do you really need to replace the CCV. Some say yes, I say maybe. Partly because I never want to replace parts unless it is really necessary. For instance, I will wait until my oil filter housing actually leaks before replacing the gasket. Why? Because I have better things to do than fix my car. Here are the typical CCV failure modes:

"The CCV also has two failure modes. The most serious failure mode occurs during sub-freezing temperatures and is the result of a mixture of oil mist and condensate (water) combining and freezing the separator solid so it can't do it's job. In the other failure mode the integral diaphragm in the CCV cracks and creates both a vacuum leak and a path for oil vapor to be sucked into the intake manifold and later burned. The result is usually a rough running engine and lots of blue smoke billowing from the exhaust. If this occurs it will most likely be associated with a check engine light (CEL) due to the vacuum leak and misfires that are the result of the contaminated fuel mixture. In a worst case scenario, if sufficient oil is sucked into the manifold the result can be a hydrolocked engine and a very large repair bill. For this reason I believe replacement of the $80 CCV is cheap insurance while you are under the hood to replace the ICV. " Ref: Doug's Domain e36

Being a CA car, you probably don't have the former issue. If you inspect the pipes/hoses, if you find a yellow/white mayo like substance inside, then you have the former problem. If you have the latter issue, you will know it (CEL or smoke in your exhaust). So, unless your diaphragm has failed, replacement may not be needed immediately. But since the total cost for replacement, including the 4 pipes/hoses, is around $140, you may want to do this for the access while everything is out and for peace of mind. It kind of depends on how long your commitment to this car is.

You cannot clean the CCV itself because you cannot open it. It is possible to clean the "mayo" like gunk out of the pipes/hoses but the plastic connectors get brittle over time and typically break when you remove them. Most folks just replace all the hoses. If the diaphragm has failed, it cannot be fixed because you can't access it. So, if this is on your agenda, you should just buy all new parts.

The CCV parts are located on Real.OEM in section 11 15, Engine - Cylinder Head. BMW recommends you should replace the old dipstick tube with the $250+ new BMW "special" dipstick tube. I say whoever says that IS a dipstick. Clean out the tube with compressed air and you're good to go. A new o-ring gasket is all you need there.

In my original DIY post on the CCV, go to post #36 and look at the picture #8, the one with the dipstick tube, wiring box and lower intake boot identified. That view is from the driver side, looking sideways (reference the alternator position). The CCV is hidden directly behind the wiring box, which must be removed to replace the CCV. In post #37, the old CCV is shown in photo #13 and the new one is shown in photo #18.

One thing. The technical difficulty of replacing your CCV is about a 3-4 on a scale of 1- 10. No real skills or experience are needed (look, I DID it! With minimal assistance!). The key is to be methodical and label everything that gets disconnected. However, the PITA factor is an 8-9 due to limited access. Since you have everything out of the way, the PITA factor should be go down to a 2-3. This may be a deciding factor on whether to do this job or not.

These are the parts and tools, taken from that DIY:

Tools
• T-40, T-27 & T-25 Torx
• 6mm, 10mm, & 13mm sockets
• Ratchet -1/4" & 3/8”
• Extension bars, various lengths - 1/4" & 3/8”
• ¼” drive handle
• Small mirror (absolutely necessary!)
• Assorted flat blade screw drivers in different lengths
• Magnetic pick up tool (optional)
• Small blade knife or cutter (for old hoses)
• WD-40

Parts
• 11 61 7 533 400 Pressure Regulating Valve - CCV (insulated)
• 11 61 1 533 398 Vent Pipe (insulated)
• 11 61 7 533 399 Connecting line (insulated)
• 11 61 7 532 629 Vent hose (insulated)
• 11 61 7 504 536 Return Pipe (insulated)
• 11 43 1 740 045 O-Ring, Oil Dip Stick Tube to Oil Pan

Hope this helps. Adding another fairly major task to your growing list of things to do is somewhat daunting but when you get through these jobs, your engine will be extremely reliable.

You'll then get the itch to replace your Vanos seals because you'll want to restore all that available power and torque...

Of course, then you'll want to replace your worn suspension components, because you're now outrunning your suspension...

This is why I try not to fix anything until it is broke. I have spent more $$ at Harbor Freight in the past year than I care to count.

Originally Posted by Fudman

Since you have everything out of the way, the PITA factor should be go down to a 2-3.

That is the WHOLE POINT of making this list.

I had to remove the alternator due to an emergency. I had to order parts w/o having the time to do detailed research. Because of that constraint, I could not (successfully anyway) order the right set of cooling system, VANOS, CCV/ICV and OFH parts. But had I this thread with all the recommended parts already debated and decided upon (including the brand when applicable), then I would have ordered it all in one fell swoop.

So, I missed my opportunity ... but this thread is for others (and for me in the future) ... so THEY (and I) don't miss the parts-ordering opportunity again!

NOTE: I would think the Bimmerfest sponsors would be all over this as they could sell a "kit" for each of the four major related overhauls (cooling, drive system, ccv/icv, and vanos).

Originally Posted by Fudman

You cannot clean the CCV ... the plastic connectors ... typically break... Most folks ... replace all the hoses. Clean out the [old dipstick] ...A new o-ring gasket is all you need there.

Good to know. So a new $80 CCV seems like a recommended part on the CCV/ICV overhaul parts list and all the hoses and an O-ring for the oil dipstick tube.

Originally Posted by Fudman

The CCV parts are located on Real.OEM in section 11 15, Engine - Cylinder Head.

IMHO, RealOEM almost never works when you need to know the RECOMMENDED replacement parts & recommended brand. RealOEM works fine if you already know the part you want to replace.

Originally Posted by Fudman

The CCV is hidden directly behind the wiring box, which must be removed to replace the CCV.

I'm sooo confused about WHERE it is ... I'll go look now with your V8 CCV thread and Jason's I6 CCV thread visible and report back later (probably to the alternator thread).

Originally Posted by Fudman

These are the parts and tools, taken from that DIY

And now we get to the meat of the CCV/ICV parts list!

TOOLS FOR CCV REPLACEMENT:
• T-40, T-27 & T-25 Torx
• 6mm, 10mm, & 13mm sockets
• Ratchet -1/4" & 3/8"
• Extension bars, various lengths - 1/4" & 3/8"
• ¼" drive handle
• Small mirror (absolutely necessary!)
• Assorted flat blade screw drivers in different lengths
• Magnetic pick up tool (optional)
• Small blade knife or cutter (for old hoses)
• WD-40

PARTS FOR CCV REPLACEMENT:
• 11 61 7 533 400 Pressure Regulating Valve - CCV (insulated)
• 11 61 1 533 398 Vent Pipe (insulated)
• 11 61 7 533 399 Connecting line (insulated)
• 11 61 7 532 629 Vent hose (insulated)
• 11 61 7 504 536 Return Pipe (insulated)
• 11 43 1 740 045 O-Ring, Oil Dip Stick Tube to Oil Pan

In response to this complete list of parts from Mark at EACTuning for the M54 engine CCV repair: it seems Jason5Driver suggests only:
- CCV cold weather kit
- 2 additional hoses (one is the vent hose but I'm not sure the other hose?)
- dip-stick O-ring
- air distribution piece (is this the same as the return pipe?)

QUESTION:
Can somebody reconcile Fudmans & Mark's complete CCV list with Jason's quickly written but DIFFERENT (shorter) recommended list so we can come to an agreement on the list of CCV parts & tools?

Originally Posted by bluebee

Here is what I think is the typical recommended ... parts list for a ... cooling system overhaul

For the record, Pleiades came up with a specific hose parts list over here:
- The "rest" of the hoses for the '99 MY 528i w/auto climate control

I belatedly realized inspection of the problematic DISA valve isn't listed in this thread as being 'part' of a major overhaul.

As Doru mentions in this thread today:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Broken DISA Valve

The DISA valve should be removed & visually 'inspected' whenever you have the airbox out of the car (or at least at the 85K-90K mile point) so I also added it to the list of tandem related jobs:
- Typical tandem DIY repair jobs combined while you're already there (1)

This airbox-removal corresponds, I think, to most alternator repairs, and perhaps also most cooling system, CCV, and belt-drive overhauls.

So, moving forward, I recommend we try to remember to suggest lining up a new DISA when doing the parts for all those jobs. (Notice I said "lining up", which means just pricing it out - because it would be too expensive to replace without inspecting first.)

So that others don't make the omission that I did (in not inspecting the DISA valve when doing those overhauls), what other common repairs necessitate airbox removal?

For the cross-linked record, today a picture of all cooling system parts was posted:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Thermostat,Fan Clutch,Bleed Screws... Finally

So I added it to the bestlinks, as shown below:
- List & picture of all the cooling system overhaul parts to replace (1) (2) (3)

A nice cooling system overhaul parts list was posted today:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Cooling system! be safe than sorry?

Originally Posted by George16

Here is the list of parts, prices and sources:

Cooling system Overhaul
11281738605 Ina Idler Pulley $24.68 AutohausAZ
11511436590 Water pump pulley $22.92 AutohausAZ
11517527799 Graf water pump $56.65 AutohausAZ
11531438634 BMW coolant hose $29.45 AutohausAZ
11531705223 Radiator upper hose $25.92 AutohausAZ
11531705224 Radiator lower hose $26.54 AutohausAZ
17111427156 Vent hose from radiator to expansion tank $9.44 AutohausAZ
17111712788aft Aftermarket brass bleeder screw (qty 2) $7.68 AutohausAZ
4PK0865 Ac belt $9.77 AutohausAZ
11537509227 Thermostat with housing $58.78 OEMBimmerparts.com
2100011031 Sachs fan clutch $91.19 AutohausAZ
11281706545 Serpentine belt $17.50 OEMBimmerparts.com
32421740858 Power steering pulley $30.00 OEMBimmerparts.com
11531438632 Expansion tank hose to heater core $27.50 OEMBimmerparts.com
11531438633 Expansion tank hose to aux pump $27.50 OEMBimmerparts.com
82141467704 BMW coolant (need 5.5 quarts plus 5.5 qts distilled water $22.50 OEMBimmerparts.com
11281748832 AC tensioner $53.00 OEMBimmerparts.com
11287512758 Alternator/waterpump tensioner $53.00 OEMBimmerparts.com

VANOS Seals/Valve Cover Replacement
VANOS Seals $60.00 Beisansystems.com
11120030496 Valve cover gasket $24.27 AutohauAZ
11121437395 Valve grommet(need 15) $11.04 AutohauAZ
11361433817 VANOS cover gasket $3.59 AutohauAZ

Keep in mind that my car is a 2003 530 and yours is a 525 so other parts might not be applicable. When you go to the websites, ensure you choose the correct year and model of your car.

Thanks for all who contributed to this thread, especially you bluebee. I've got a small coolant leak somewhere and I suspect the culprit is the water pump, so having all the information here is a God send.

Originally Posted by Only1Balto

I suspect the culprit is the water pump

This is the list of recommended waterpumps to buy:
- What brand of waterpump to buy (1)

I just ran into this parts list from this thread:

Originally Posted by AZ-528i

I agree with cn90! While you have the fan off, overhaul the whole system. You will be thankful you did. E39 radiators are notorious for going bad around 60K miles.

Here is a cooling system overhaul part list that I made when planning my overhaul (purchased from https://www.autohausaz.com/index.html

For the crosslinked record, this series of common questions was asked today:

Originally Posted by Guam135i

I have a E39, 525i Touring. I replaced the expansion tank a few days ago after it cracked. Now I need to replace the water pump and since Im at it I will also replace the thermostat. The car has 61K miles.

The question is, is the Stewart warner WP worth he $195? or aftremarket with metal impeller at half the price? same question for the thermostat, OEM or replacement at half the price. Since I am at it would it be a good idea to replace the plastic WP pulley with an aluminum one?

I later plan to go to a zionville cooling system which does not include the WP or the Pulley at 80K miles

Thoughts on this is appreciated

Originally Posted by bluebee

Age old question.

Has been asked a thousand times.

Start by typing /waterpump F3 in the best links, e.g.,
- What brand of waterpump to buy (1)

If, after reading that thread, you still have questions, that is the right place to ask (so that all the erudite questions are kept together for the NEXT person to benefit).

Originally Posted by Guam135i

Thanks, made the decision on the WP now any idea on the Thermostat? and plastic pulley?

Originally Posted by bluebee

Again, these questions have been often asked, so, repeating the same approach should work, shouldn't it?

For example, typing /cooling system F3 in the best links nets this, among others:
- List & picture of all the cooling system overhaul recommended parts to replace (1) (2) (3)

Likewise with typing /belt drive F3:
- Recommended parts list for a complete belt drive system overhaul (1)

There was a clarification comment on this cooling system overhaul parts list over here today:

Originally Posted by BM109R

This is also my next DIY project. I've already replaced all the tensioners and belts recently so I only need the WP, thermostat, hoses and, expansion tank, fan, fan clutch radiator. My question is should I also include the vent hose that goes from expansion tank to radiator? I do not see that listed in any of the recommended parts list. I have attached a picture. The part number is 17111427156.

Originally Posted by BM109R

Just saw the hose I was checking for on the list. On realoem it is called vent hose while on cn90's list it is the bypass hose.

So I am amassing my parts for the coolant overhaul from different sources and i have a couple of questions before I make my last order:

-From the attached image, how critical is it to change the three marked hoses? Are those known to wear out and leak to at around the same time as everything else?
-Does the nissin radiator come with a drain plug and are there any fitment issues different from OEM. Is it better than behr?

Thank you.

Originally Posted by BM109R

how critical is it to change the three marked hoses?

My understanding is that most people do not change them - but it's probably a good idea to replace any and all rubber at the age of our vehicles.

But I would base any deeper assessment on a visual check and the current prices.

Originally Posted by BM109R

Are those known to wear out and leak to at around the same time as everything else?

Looking at this thread, from an anecdotal perspective, these hoses are not unreliable:
- Pictorial look at typical E39 cooling system failure modes (1)

Originally Posted by BM109R

Does the nissin radiator come with a drain plug

IIRC, mine did.

Originally Posted by BM109R

and are there any fitment issues different from OEM.

Getting the Behr out of the vehicle isn't all that difficult:
- Removal instructions for the alternator & drive belt system of a 2002 525i
- Removal instructions for the fan shroud of a 2002 525i
- Tools necessary for a cooling system overhaul
etc.

But, on the automatic I6, getting the Nissens/Behr back in is the hardest part:
- One user's cooling system overhaul: How to get the radiator back on (1)

Originally Posted by BM109R

Is it better than behr?

Methinks they all stink.

Personally, I don't wish to reward Behr for making garbage - so I bought Nissens garbage instead.

Here you see what the Behr looks like inside:
- Behr radiator and Behr expansion (aka surge) tank autopsy (1) (2)

For the record, there is a good thread on locating all the cooling system hoses here today:
-> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Want to replace cooling system heater hoses.

Originally Posted by bluebee

RECOMMENDED BELT-DRIVE SYSTEM PARTS LIST:
- alternator/ps/wp drive belt (CRP-Contitech)

We're adding "Gatorback" belts to the recommended alternator belt brands based on this post today from [energizedmortal].

"for alternator drive belt add "gatorback belt replacement" there are reports on the forum that problem cars that upgraded to hydraulic tensioners still had alternator drive belt whine that was only cured after gatorback belt replacement"

Based on new information in this thread:
- Belts / Tensioner s/ Idler Pulley Replacement

For the newer E39's, we've now learned a T60 (Torx #60) drive needs to be added to the recommended drive-belt system overhaul tool list.

Apparently, the latest model E39s do NOT use the raised molded nut on the mechanical tensioners as the leverage point; they use a sunken molded T60 indentation instead.

So, whenever we do a rehash of the tools needed, we'll need to add a T60 torx socket & ratchet for mechanical tensioners, depending on your E39 model year.

Originally Posted by bluebee

RECOMMENDED BELT-DRIVE SYSTEM PARTS LIST:

Just for the record, I doubt many of us would "recommend" replacing "just" the mechanical pulley ... but ... since the question came up recently here:
- Check my pulleys?

To be complete, you "can" replace just the pulley on the mechanical tensioner:
- What is the part number for "just" the mechanical tensioner pulley?

Dayco #89133

Also, you "can" replace your mechanical tensioner with a hydraulic tensioner:
- WHY would a hydraulic belt tensioner be any quieter than a mechanical belt tensioner?

More information about the mechanical tensioner spring is here:

Originally Posted by 16valex

The tensioner spring will out last three pulleys. Just get the pulley, put a couple drops of Tri-flow lub, you are as good as new

And, for the bearings themselves, look here:

Originally Posted by WagonTheDog

An interesting discussion on bearing grease: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums...Number=1273667

I didn't drill down and identify the actual bearing by part number, I just spoke to a friend of mine in industrial sales who advised me that one of these two mfgs would definitely have it, or an equivalent:

http://www.skf.com/portal/skf/home/p...g=en&newlink=9
or
http://www.astbearings.com/

Bluebee - thanks for all the info (I'll thank CN90 later)

I'm preparing for cooling system overhaul, and have spent hours reading all the related posts I could find, and still have a question:

Should I use any sealant on the thermostat housing & housing bolts? One thread used black silicone if the head was in rough shape.

On other cars I've always used Permatex (II I think is the non-hardening kind), but I don't recall seeing this covered.

Thks in advance

Originally Posted by rexgo

Should I use any sealant on the thermostat housing & housing bolts?

I had asked the same question but for my 2002 525i (where the thermostat and plastic housing are a single unit).

The answer came back emphatically "no" (by all whom I asked who should know).

But I don't have a clue if the 97 528i is similar so the question needs be answered by someone else. Sorry.

See: BMW oils, lubricants, sealants, & thread lockers (pdf) (gif).

Radiator cap does not mount on the radiator, it mounts on the expansion tank. The cap does not come with the tank. But the Behr radiator does come with the blue plastic drain plug. Only reason i know is I just bought both this week and am doing the install Sunday.

Jerry

Originally Posted by uncmozo

The cap does not come with the tank. But the Behr radiator does come with the blue plastic drain plug.

Thanks Jerry. I updated the post #3 so that the list is updated.

This is the kind of information we can all share what we know and the rest of us (me included) benefit by having a simple 1:1 replacement list to go down.