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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 07-29-2010, 02:03 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Recommended parts kits for overhauling cooling, drive belts, CCV/ICV, VANOS, OFH, PSP

This is not asking for a DIY ... it's asking for a recommended parts list for the following 7 systems (interrelated as to the PIA parts that need to be removed).
- Drive belt system recommended parts list kit
- Cooling system recommended parts list kit
- Crankcase ventilation valve (CCV) recommended parts list kit
- Idle control valve (ICV) recommended parts list kit
- Oil filter housing (OFH) leak recommended parts list kit
- Power steering pump (PSP) fluid reservoir recommended parts list kit
- Variable valve timing (VANOS) recommended parts list kit

Rationale: This week, I needed a tow and had to buy parts in a hurry and rip an alternator out in a frenzied rush ... so I already lost my opportunity to get the right parts for a decent overhaul of easy to get to stuff once the alternator, fan, fan, tensioners, pulleys, airbox, etc. were already removed. If I had this list of related parts, I wouldn't have to do the PIA removal twice.

I realize each DIY has a slightly different recommended tools and parts list ... and I realize some "mod" the car (i.e., aluminum radiators, special coolants, special thermostats, aluminum thermostat housings, etc.) but if we keep THIS LIST to just the recommended 1:1 replacement, I feel it will be very helpful to many (including me) in the future.

In fact, if I had that earlier this week, I would have already ordered all my cooling system components, for example, instead of being scared by indecision of not knowing WHAT to get and what brand, and ending up with nothing to show for all that indecision.

EDIT: This is the general recommendation on MIXING jobs:
1. Do a complete cooling system overhaul at ~75K miles
2. Do a complete VANOS seals overhaul at ~75K miles (for the I6)
3. Do a complete belt-drive system overhaul at ~75K miles
4. Do a CCV replacement at ~100K miles

A. It's common to mix the cooling system & belt drive overhauls as the same parts are removed
B. It's common to add power steering hose check/fix & oil filter housing gasket check/fix to the belt-drive overhaul
C. It's common to add a spark-plug replacement with the VANOS seals as the same parts are removed
D. It's common to do the CCV all by itself as it is the more difficult of the three jobs
E. Plan ahead by stocking alternator rebuild parts; but if your alternator unexpectedly goes south, do the entire belt drive system at the same time as the alternator.

Last edited by bluebee; 09-20-2010 at 03:01 PM.
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  #2  
Old 07-29-2010, 02:12 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Here is what I think is the typical recommended special tools and parts list for a drive-belt system overhaul (please correct any errors or omissions):

RECOMMENDED BELT-DRIVE SYSTEM PARTS LIST:
- alternator/ps/wp drive belt (CRP-Contitech)
- A/C compressor drive belt (CRP-Contitech)
- idler roller (INA is OEM, can also get SKF)
- A/C belt tensioner (INA is OEM, can also get SKF or Ruville or Lemfoerder)
- alternator/ps/wp belt tensioner (INA is OEM, can also get SKF, Ruville, or Lemfoerder)
- alternator, 120Amp (Bosch and Valeo are OEM; replace yours with the same as you're taking out)
- viscious fan clutch (Behr is OEM, Sachs is recommended brand, MFC is not recommended)
- ??? anything else ???

TOOLS:
- Dialectric grease for the O-ring on water-cooled alternators only
- 32mm long (~16 inches) thin (~4mm) viscous fan wrench (EBAY, Harbor Freight Tools, Northern Tools, Pelican Parts, Technitool)
- Fan hub bolt counterhold tool, 45mm hole spacing (I6) or 38mm hole spacing (V8) aka fan nut counterhold tool (EBAY, Samsung Tools, Pelican, Technitool)
- 24mm hollow thin socket alternator pulley nut removal tool (only needed if new/rebuilt alternator doesn't have pulley attached)
- Big Fine Hammer, sometimes needed on the fan nut, especially if you don't have the counterhold tool (OSH, Home Depot, ACE)
Note: You can use a screwdriver or make your own counterhold tools for $10 as per the CAD diagrams in this thread.
Note: The BMW 32mm tool (which nobody seems to get, P/N 11 5 040) has an attachment for a torque wrench (but most people don't worry about torque because it's a left-hand thread and the fan spins the other way).
Note: The I6 uses a 45mm spacing tool; old BMW P/N 88.88.6.115.030; new BMW P/N 83.30.0.491.046.
Note: The V8 uses a 38mm spacing tool; old BMW P/N 88.88.6.115.050; new BMW P/N 83.30.0.491.048.
Note: Consider the EBAY fan nut counterhold tool which has the I6 spacing on one end and the V8 spacing on the other.
Note: Edjack implies V8 owners need a recessed counterhold tool for some V8s; so doublecheck here if necessary.
Note: Sometimes the new/rebuilt alternator doesn't come with the pulley so you have to remove yours; most people use a 32mm impact wrench; but BMW sells a specific "hollow thin walled" 24mm socket for this, BMW P/N 12 7 100.
- ??? anything else ???

NOTES:
Note 1: The ONLY way to know if you have mechanical spring or so-called hydraulic piston tensioners is to look; you can even have one of each. No VIN lookup will help you. DO NOT GUESS!
Note 2: You can change from mechanical to hydraulic belt tensioners; but you'll need an additional parts kit.
Note 3: If you plan ahead, you can rebuild the alternator for a fraction of the cost of a remanufactured one; and you'll be sure to have quality bearings.
Note 4: If you are handy, you can make your own fan clutch bolt counterhold tool; just follow the plans outlined in this tool-making DIY.
Note 5: I'm confused but I think the hydraulic tensioners come without the pulley while the mechanical tensioners come with the pulley; I don't know if you can get the pulleys separate from the mechanical tensioners (please correct what I mis-state).

Last edited by bluebee; 08-24-2010 at 01:19 PM.
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  #3  
Old 07-29-2010, 02:13 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Here is what I think is the typical recommended special tools and parts list for a 1:1 cooling system overhaul (please correct any errors or omissions):

FLUIDS:
- 1 gallon BMW antifreeze (~$20/gallon)
- 1 gallon distilled water
- 1 small can of dialectric grease (for electrical connections) (~$5)
Notes:
a. BMW recommends phosphate/amine & nitrite/nitrate free & low silicate or silicate free coolant (e.g., BMW, Valvoline Zerex G-05, or Prestone Extended Life 5/150).
b. You can "mod" the fluid (e.g., Evans NPG+); but let's keep this list mostly mainstream.
c. A complete cooling system flush will use up to 1.5 gallons of coolant and 1.5 of distilled water; but most seem to get away with a gallon somehow.

TOOLS:
- 32mm long & thin viscous fan wrench (EBAY, Harbor Freight Tools, Northern Tools, Pelican Parts, Technitool)
- Fan hub counterhold tool (EBAY, Samsung Tools, Pelican, Technitool)
- Mallet (sometimes needed on the fan nut, especially if you don't have the counterhold tool)
Notes:
a. These tools are recommended, but you can use a screwdriver or make your own counterhold tools for $10 as per the CAD diagrams in this thread.
b. The I6 uses a 45mm spacing counterhold tool; old BMW P/N 88.88.6.115.030; new BMW P/N 83.30.0.491.046 (most people buy EBAY or tool supplier, not BMW).
c. The V8 uses a 38mm spacing counterhold tool; old BMW P/N 88.88.6.115.050; new BMW P/N 83.30.0.491.048 (most people buy EBAY or tool supplier, not BMW).
d. Consider the EBAY fan nut counterhold tool that I have which has the I6 spacing on one end and the V8 spacing on the other.
e. The BMW 32mm tool (which nobody seems to get from BMW, P/N 11 5 040) has an attachment for a torque wrench; but few torque the fan nut anyway.
f. Technically a 1 1/4" wrench is the same size as a 32mm wrench so check your toolbox (it has to be at least 16" long and preferably < 8mm thick); mine is 4mm thick.

REMOVAL OF FAN SHROUD:
- 1 fuel-line type solid hose clamp for 1/4" ID hoses, 25mm to 40mm (~$1), (Oetiker, Norma)
- 1 radiator nipple, PN 17.11.0.419.132 (~$3); if you're not replacing the radiator, this is a recommended spare part as it very often breaks.
Notes:
a. It's common to break the fan shroud seal that surrounds the expansion tank bleeder screw; keep a spare handy (PN 17 11 1 723 580).
b. It's less common to find the two fan shroud 8mm shell, 1mm rivets missing (~$0.25 each); consider a spare set (PN 17 11 1 712 963).
c. The only hose clamp needed for the entire cooling system overhaul is this expansion tank to radiator nipple hose clamp.

EXPANSION TANK & HOSES:
- 1 expansion tank (~60 to $75); (Nissens (if available) or Behr).
- 1 expansion tank cap (~$12) (the cap does NOT come with the new expansion tank).
Optional:
- 1 expansion tank mounting clip (~$2) (this is the clip which goes around the bleeder screw; it often breaks when removing it so keep a spare handy) (Behr, or MTC).
- 2 fuel-line-style solid hose clamps (one for each end of the thin hose at the top of the expansion tank)
Notes:
a. Only the top (stick) half of the level sensor comes the expansion tank; the bottom (electromagnetic) half of the level sensor generally doesn't go bad and can be re-used.
b. Optionally, you can pick up the electromagnetic coolant level sensor (which plugs into the bottom of the expansion tank to mate with the mechanical (stick) level indication).
c. The expansion tank comes with a plastic bleeder screw (~$2) prone to breaking in half; consider replacing with (~$4) brass aftermarket screws (same size as upper hose screw).
d. There are three hoses emanating from the expansion tank (one on the top, two on the bottom); most don't replace them unless they're obviously worn.

RADIATOR & HOSES:
- 1 radiator, ~$150 (manual trans) to $200 (auto trans) (most prefer Nissens over the OES Behr; personally I don't see any reason to reward Behr for making the lousy OEM radiators by buying from them again if you don't have to)
- 1 upper radiator hose, ~$40, (Elaplast or CRP-Contitech but not Uro).
- 1 lower radiator hose, ~$20, (Elaplast or CRP-Contitech).
- 1 temperature sensor ~$20 to $30, a new sensor comes with a new o-ring. (FAE)
- 1 zip tie, about 8 to 10 inches long (ties a plastic wiring harness to the upper radiator hose)
Notes:
a. The new radiator comes with the expansion tank top hose nipple so the nipple part number isn't listed in the REALOEM diagrams.
b. If you're working on the fan shroud, it's common to break this nipple; keep a spare handy (PN 17.11.0.419.132).
c. The upper radiator hose comes with a plastic bleeder screw prone to breaking in half; consider replacing with brass aftermarket screws (same size as expansion tank screw).
d. The lower radiator hose does NOT come with the temperature sensor; so if you re-use your old temp sensor, buy a new 8mmIDx3mm thick O ring (PN 13 62 1 743 299).
e. You can "mod" the radiator by going all metal (e.g., Zionsville); but this post is about the typical recommended replacement parts.
f. The radiator comes with the blue radiator drain plug.

THERMOSTAT & HOSES:
- 1 mechanical (up to and including 1998) (~$100) or electrically heated thermostat (1999-2003) (Wahler) with O-ring gasket (~$2)
- 1 housing for the mechanical thermostat (not needed for the electrically-heated thermostat) with O-ring gasket (~$2)
Notes:
a. You can "mod" the mechanical thermostat housing by going all aluminum; but make sure your mating surfaces are precisely flat.
b. RTV or thermostat gasket/seal for thermostat housing (e.g., Goetze) is not needed nor recommended.
c. The electrically heated thermostat is integral with the plastic housing so you do not need a separate thermostat housing.
d. Some people mod their thermostat by going with a lower temperature and/or by drilling air-bypass holes in the thermostat.

WATER PUMP:
- 1 water pump (~$125 to $150) with o-ring ($3), (lots of debate ... Hepu & Graf are good, GMB is BMW OEM, GEMP/Stewart is high end)
Notes:
a. Optionally you can replace the glass-filled plastic water pump pulley ($25); but most replace only if damaged.
b. Having said that, those who use a BFH and just the 32mm wrench often damage the pulley; so either buy the pulley holder or keep a spare pulley handy before you start the job (lesson learned ... see details below).
b. Optionally you can replace the 4 water pump pulley bolts; but most replace only if damaged.
c. Optionally you can replace the 4 water pump pulley nuts; but most replace only if damaged.
d. There is intense argument about water pumps, mostly about plastic versus metal impellers and long life.

FAN:
- 1 fan clutch ~75 to ~125, (Behr or Fichtel-Sachs, maybe even ACM; but not MTC, Mission Trading Company)
Notes:
a. The viscous fan clutch and the plastic blades are two different parts; most replace the clutch; some replace the fan blades.
b. Optionally replace the fan blades (~$40 to $60); but most replace only if damaged (Behr OEM, Febi-Bilstein, or Meyle, or ACM)

ENGINE BLOCK:
- There are no recommended parts for the engine block; but see optional parts below:
Notes:
- Optionally, on older E39s, if you flush, you may require 1 engine block water drain plug (see cn90 cooling system overhaul DIY)
- Optionally, on older E39s, if you flush, you may require 1 engine block water drain plug washer (see cn90 cooling overhaul DIY)

ODDS & ENDS (most of which were covered in specific sections above):
- Extra radiator nipples (BMW PN 17.11.0.419.132).
- Extra green coolant temperature sensor o-Rings 8mmIDx3mmthick (BMW PN 13.62.1.743.299).
- Extra fan shroud rivets for 8mm holes (BMW PN 17.11.1.712.963).
- Extra brass bleeder screws (aftermarket), ~$4
- Extra fan shroud seal surrounding the expansion tank bleeder screw (PN 17 11 1 723 580).
- Extra hose clamp (fuel filter solid-band type, for ID 1/4")
- Extra 10-inch long zip ties (to secure plastic wiring harness to upper radiator hose)

EXAMPLE:
Here is a real-world example parts list from cn90 back in 2006 for a 1998 528i. Notice the choices made, the need for multiple suppliers, and the prices paid ... (YMMV).

1. From the BMW Dealer:
* Thermostat Plastic Housing (PN 11531740478) $28.00

2.From AutoHauzAZ http://[URL="http://www.autohausaz.com/"]www.Autohausaz.com:[/URL]
* Behr Thermostat 88°C (PN 11531721002) $17.00
- Note: The factory thermostat is 92°C, but I wanted it a bit cooler. Now the temperature gauge sits just a bit LEFT of the 12 o’clock position when warmed up.
* Radiator hoses (upper and lower): $9 and $7
* AC belt (5PK0906) $9
* WP-Alt-PS belt (6PK1560) $13
* Rollers x 2 (PN 11281748131) $17/each
- (for the AC belt and for between the crank and WP pulleys)
* Idler Roller (PN 11281738605) $23/each
(this sits between the WP and alternator pulleys)
* Hydraulic Tensioner (PN 11281717210) $39/each
(for the AC belt)
* Hydraulic Tensioner (PN 11281717188) $50/each
(for the roller between the crank and WP pulleys)
* Coolant Reservoir "Mounting Clip" (PN 17111723580) $2.20/each
* Fan Clutch by "Sachs" (PN 11521719269) $94/each
* Fan Blades by "BMW" (PN 11521712058) $45/each
* Radiator by "Nissens" (PN 17111702969) $173/each
(many people consider the Nissens to be better than the Behr radiator)
Bluebee note: Plus why reward Behr by buying ANOTHER of their radiators to replace the broken one!
* Bypass Hose from Radiator to Reservoir (PN 17111427156) $5.60/each
(This is also known as the reservoir overflow hose, which is located along the top of the radiator going from the reservoir nipple to the radiator nipple)

3. From BMW-Parts Direct http://[URL="http://www.bmw-parts-direct.com/"]www.bmw-parts-direct.com[/URL]
* Coolant Vent Screw (PN 17111712788) $2.80/each
* Reservoir Cap (PN 17111712669) $10.60/each
* Reservoir by OEM (PN 17111723520) $56/each
* Water Pump by "Hepu" (PN 11511740241) $67/each
The pump came with the o-ring. Based on research, the "Hepu" waterpump seems to be a bit better than the "Graf" or "Geba" (Graf and Geba seem to have leakage after 20-30K miles but I am not sure). The Volvo folks love the Hepu water pump so I went with "Hepu".

CORRECTIONS:
Please correct the errors/omissions in this list so we have a good starting point for the next person who needs a cooling system overhaul parts list.

Last edited by bluebee; 09-26-2010 at 07:34 AM.
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  #4  
Old 07-29-2010, 04:02 AM
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Fudman Fudman is offline
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Thanx, BlueBee! I haven't done this job yet but I appreciate you collecting all this info. It saves me a LOT of research time! Cooling system is on my to do list as I am almost to 80K.
From what I have read to date, a metal impeller is recommended for the water pump replacement. Available on a coupl of brands. I also recommend going the name brand route, vice saving a few $$ on eBay, for a critical system like cooling. Just not worth the risk vs. reward. For the fan tools, I use a standard 32mm wrench from HF. The full set costs ~$20 on sale and has many large sizes my Craftsman set was missing. Not very thin but it works fine and can take a beating (literally). For the holding tool, I made one using the dimensions in your earlier tool thread from the locking bar to my tool chest (who locks their tool chest?). Not particularly pretty but functional. I read one guy used his garage door opener connecting bar. Now that's innovative!

That's pretty much the limit of my contribution. Thanx again!
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Old 07-29-2010, 11:20 AM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fudman View Post
appreciate you collecting all this info. It saves me a LOT of research time!
I don't consider this list anywhere near correct yet. We still need help from everyone to flesh out the questions.

Because the list is still so bad, I couldn't order the right parts when I ordered the alternator parts earlier this week. Now, because of the lack of a good list (and me being scared of being stuck without the right part), I have to rip apart my engine TWICE.

All because we still don't (yet) have the "correct" list of 1:1 replacement recommendations. But we will ... if we work together on it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fudman View Post
a metal impeller is recommended for the water pump replacement.
I'm trying to list the most recommended replacement part. That's why I listed the Hepu (composite impeller) that Cam is happy with; yet I also listed the Stewart (metal impeller) which is pricey but many also recommend it (with the OEM GMB in the middle).

For the purpose of this thread, three ranges should suffice as it's supposed to be the most common recommended replacement part and brand.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fudman View Post
I use a standard 32mm wrench from HF. The full set costs ~$20 on sale and has many large sizes my Craftsman set was missing.
I had to search to figure out what "HF" was (so I added "HF" to the BMW glossary so others would have it handy). I got my 32mm wrench and 45mm hole-spacing counterhold tool from EBAY, so, I'll list the top three as HF, EBAY, and Northern Tools (with a note with pointers for making your own).

How does that sound for a reasonable recommendation?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fudman View Post
That's pretty much the limit of my contribution
No no no. You're not off the hook that easily.

You wrote the book on the CCV. I'm thoroughly confused about my CCV, whether I can tackle it with the hoses all attached but everything else out, and if I need to buy any parts or if we can just clean it.

May I ask you to either respond to the query about the CCV here ... or just post below what parts or tools one needs to do the right thing for their CCV while they are working on the cooling system and/or belt-drive system.
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Old 07-29-2010, 01:00 PM
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Fudman Fudman is offline
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The first question should be: Do you really need to replace the CCV. Some say yes, I say maybe. Partly because I never want to replace parts unless it is really necessary. For instance, I will wait until my oil filter housing actually leaks before replacing the gasket. Why? Because I have better things to do than fix my car. Here are the typical CCV failure modes:

"The CCV also has two failure modes. The most serious failure mode occurs during sub-freezing temperatures and is the result of a mixture of oil mist and condensate (water) combining and freezing the separator solid so it can't do it's job. In the other failure mode the integral diaphragm in the CCV cracks and creates both a vacuum leak and a path for oil vapor to be sucked into the intake manifold and later burned. The result is usually a rough running engine and lots of blue smoke billowing from the exhaust. If this occurs it will most likely be associated with a check engine light (CEL) due to the vacuum leak and misfires that are the result of the contaminated fuel mixture. In a worst case scenario, if sufficient oil is sucked into the manifold the result can be a hydrolocked engine and a very large repair bill. For this reason I believe replacement of the $80 CCV is cheap insurance while you are under the hood to replace the ICV. " Ref: Doug's Domain e36

Being a CA car, you probably don't have the former issue. If you inspect the pipes/hoses, if you find a yellow/white mayo like substance inside, then you have the former problem. If you have the latter issue, you will know it (CEL or smoke in your exhaust). So, unless your diaphragm has failed, replacement may not be needed immediately. But since the total cost for replacement, including the 4 pipes/hoses, is around $140, you may want to do this for the access while everything is out and for peace of mind. It kind of depends on how long your commitment to this car is.

You cannot clean the CCV itself because you cannot open it. It is possible to clean the "mayo" like gunk out of the pipes/hoses but the plastic connectors get brittle over time and typically break when you remove them. Most folks just replace all the hoses. If the diaphragm has failed, it cannot be fixed because you can't access it. So, if this is on your agenda, you should just buy all new parts.

The CCV parts are located on Real.OEM in section 11 15, Engine - Cylinder Head. BMW recommends you should replace the old dipstick tube with the $250+ new BMW "special" dipstick tube. I say whoever says that IS a dipstick. Clean out the tube with compressed air and you're good to go. A new o-ring gasket is all you need there.

In my original DIY post on the CCV, go to post #36 and look at the picture #8, the one with the dipstick tube, wiring box and lower intake boot identified. That view is from the driver side, looking sideways (reference the alternator position). The CCV is hidden directly behind the wiring box, which must be removed to replace the CCV. In post #37, the old CCV is shown in photo #13 and the new one is shown in photo #18.

One thing. The technical difficulty of replacing your CCV is about a 3-4 on a scale of 1- 10. No real skills or experience are needed (look, I DID it! With minimal assistance!). The key is to be methodical and label everything that gets disconnected. However, the PITA factor is an 8-9 due to limited access. Since you have everything out of the way, the PITA factor should be go down to a 2-3. This may be a deciding factor on whether to do this job or not.

These are the parts and tools, taken from that DIY:

Tools
• T-40, T-27 & T-25 Torx
• 6mm, 10mm, & 13mm sockets
• Ratchet -1/4" & 3/8”
• Extension bars, various lengths - 1/4" & 3/8”
• Ό” drive handle
• Small mirror (absolutely necessary!)
• Assorted flat blade screw drivers in different lengths
• Magnetic pick up tool (optional)
• Small blade knife or cutter (for old hoses)
• WD-40

Parts
• 11 61 7 533 400 Pressure Regulating Valve - CCV (insulated)
• 11 61 1 533 398 Vent Pipe (insulated)
• 11 61 7 533 399 Connecting line (insulated)
• 11 61 7 532 629 Vent hose (insulated)
• 11 61 7 504 536 Return Pipe (insulated)
• 11 43 1 740 045 O-Ring, Oil Dip Stick Tube to Oil Pan

Hope this helps. Adding another fairly major task to your growing list of things to do is somewhat daunting but when you get through these jobs, your engine will be extremely reliable.

You'll then get the itch to replace your Vanos seals because you'll want to restore all that available power and torque...

Of course, then you'll want to replace your worn suspension components, because you're now outrunning your suspension...

This is why I try not to fix anything until it is broke. I have spent more $$ at Harbor Freight in the past year than I care to count.
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Old 07-29-2010, 01:17 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fudman View Post
Since you have everything out of the way, the PITA factor should be go down to a 2-3.
That is the WHOLE POINT of making this list.

I had to remove the alternator due to an emergency. I had to order parts w/o having the time to do detailed research. Because of that constraint, I could not (successfully anyway) order the right set of cooling system, VANOS, CCV/ICV and OFH parts. But had I this thread with all the recommended parts already debated and decided upon (including the brand when applicable), then I would have ordered it all in one fell swoop.

So, I missed my opportunity ... but this thread is for others (and for me in the future) ... so THEY (and I) don't miss the parts-ordering opportunity again!

NOTE: I would think the Bimmerfest sponsors would be all over this as they could sell a "kit" for each of the four major related overhauls (cooling, drive system, ccv/icv, and vanos).

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fudman View Post
You cannot clean the CCV ... the plastic connectors ... typically break... Most folks ... replace all the hoses. Clean out the [old dipstick] ...A new o-ring gasket is all you need there.
Good to know. So a new $80 CCV seems like a recommended part on the CCV/ICV overhaul parts list and all the hoses and an O-ring for the oil dipstick tube.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fudman View Post
The CCV parts are located on Real.OEM in section 11 15, Engine - Cylinder Head.
IMHO, RealOEM almost never works when you need to know the RECOMMENDED replacement parts & recommended brand. RealOEM works fine if you already know the part you want to replace.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fudman View Post
The CCV is hidden directly behind the wiring box, which must be removed to replace the CCV.
I'm sooo confused about WHERE it is ... I'll go look now with your V8 CCV thread and Jason's I6 CCV thread visible and report back later (probably to the alternator thread).

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fudman View Post
These are the parts and tools, taken from that DIY
And now we get to the meat of the CCV/ICV parts list!

TOOLS FOR CCV REPLACEMENT:
• T-40, T-27 & T-25 Torx
• 6mm, 10mm, & 13mm sockets
• Ratchet -1/4" & 3/8"
• Extension bars, various lengths - 1/4" & 3/8"
• Ό" drive handle
• Small mirror (absolutely necessary!)
• Assorted flat blade screw drivers in different lengths
• Magnetic pick up tool (optional)
• Small blade knife or cutter (for old hoses)
• WD-40

PARTS FOR CCV REPLACEMENT:
• 11 61 7 533 400 Pressure Regulating Valve - CCV (insulated)
• 11 61 1 533 398 Vent Pipe (insulated)
• 11 61 7 533 399 Connecting line (insulated)
• 11 61 7 532 629 Vent hose (insulated)
• 11 61 7 504 536 Return Pipe (insulated)
• 11 43 1 740 045 O-Ring, Oil Dip Stick Tube to Oil Pan

In response to this complete list of parts from Mark at EACTuning for the M54 engine CCV repair: it seems Jason5Driver suggests only:
- CCV cold weather kit
- 2 additional hoses (one is the vent hose but I'm not sure the other hose?)
- dip-stick O-ring
- air distribution piece (is this the same as the return pipe?)

QUESTION:
Can somebody reconcile Fudmans & Mark's complete CCV list with Jason's quickly written but DIFFERENT (shorter) recommended list so we can come to an agreement on the list of CCV parts & tools?

Last edited by bluebee; 07-29-2010 at 02:02 PM.
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  #8  
Old 06-27-2011, 10:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
Here is what I think is the typical recommended ... parts list for a ... cooling system overhaul
For the record, Pleiades came up with a specific hose parts list over here:
- The "rest" of the hoses for the '99 MY 528i w/auto climate control
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Old 06-30-2011, 08:47 AM
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I belatedly realized inspection of the problematic DISA valve isn't listed in this thread as being 'part' of a major overhaul.

As Doru mentions in this thread today:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Broken DISA Valve

The DISA valve should be removed & visually 'inspected' whenever you have the airbox out of the car (or at least at the 85K-90K mile point) so I also added it to the list of tandem related jobs:
- Typical tandem DIY repair jobs combined while you're already there (1)

This airbox-removal corresponds, I think, to most alternator repairs, and perhaps also most cooling system, CCV, and belt-drive overhauls.

So, moving forward, I recommend we try to remember to suggest lining up a new DISA when doing the parts for all those jobs. (Notice I said "lining up", which means just pricing it out - because it would be too expensive to replace without inspecting first.)

So that others don't make the omission that I did (in not inspecting the DISA valve when doing those overhauls), what other common repairs necessitate airbox removal?
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Old 08-24-2011, 10:30 PM
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For the cross-linked record, today a picture of all cooling system parts was posted:
- E39 (1997 - 2003) > Thermostat,Fan Clutch,Bleed Screws... Finally

So I added it to the bestlinks, as shown below:
- List & picture of all the cooling system overhaul parts to replace (1) (2) (3)
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Old 03-19-2012, 08:36 PM
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A nice cooling system overhaul parts list was posted today:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Cooling system! be safe than sorry?

Quote:
Originally Posted by George16 View Post
Here is the list of parts, prices and sources:

Cooling system Overhaul
11281738605 Ina Idler Pulley $24.68 AutohausAZ
11511436590 Water pump pulley $22.92 AutohausAZ
11517527799 Graf water pump $56.65 AutohausAZ
11531438634 BMW coolant hose $29.45 AutohausAZ
11531705223 Radiator upper hose $25.92 AutohausAZ
11531705224 Radiator lower hose $26.54 AutohausAZ
17111427156 Vent hose from radiator to expansion tank $9.44 AutohausAZ
17111712788aft Aftermarket brass bleeder screw (qty 2) $7.68 AutohausAZ
4PK0865 Ac belt $9.77 AutohausAZ
11537509227 Thermostat with housing $58.78 OEMBimmerparts.com
2100011031 Sachs fan clutch $91.19 AutohausAZ
11281706545 Serpentine belt $17.50 OEMBimmerparts.com
32421740858 Power steering pulley $30.00 OEMBimmerparts.com
11531438632 Expansion tank hose to heater core $27.50 OEMBimmerparts.com
11531438633 Expansion tank hose to aux pump $27.50 OEMBimmerparts.com
82141467704 BMW coolant (need 5.5 quarts plus 5.5 qts distilled water $22.50 OEMBimmerparts.com
11281748832 AC tensioner $53.00 OEMBimmerparts.com
11287512758 Alternator/waterpump tensioner $53.00 OEMBimmerparts.com

VANOS Seals/Valve Cover Replacement
VANOS Seals $60.00 Beisansystems.com
11120030496 Valve cover gasket $24.27 AutohauAZ
11121437395 Valve grommet(need 15) $11.04 AutohauAZ
11361433817 VANOS cover gasket $3.59 AutohauAZ

Keep in mind that my car is a 2003 530 and yours is a 525 so other parts might not be applicable. When you go to the websites, ensure you choose the correct year and model of your car.
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Old 09-29-2012, 07:42 AM
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Thanks for all who contributed to this thread, especially you bluebee. I've got a small coolant leak somewhere and I suspect the culprit is the water pump, so having all the information here is a God send.
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Old 12-17-2012, 04:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Only1Balto View Post
I suspect the culprit is the water pump
This is the list of recommended waterpumps to buy:
- What brand of waterpump to buy (1)

I just ran into this parts list from this thread:
Quote:
Originally Posted by AZ-528i View Post
I agree with cn90! While you have the fan off, overhaul the whole system. You will be thankful you did. E39 radiators are notorious for going bad around 60K miles.

Here is a cooling system overhaul part list that I made when planning my overhaul (purchased from https://www.autohausaz.com/index.html
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Old 03-27-2013, 03:17 AM
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For the crosslinked record, this series of common questions was asked today:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Guam135i View Post
I have a E39, 525i Touring. I replaced the expansion tank a few days ago after it cracked. Now I need to replace the water pump and since Im at it I will also replace the thermostat. The car has 61K miles.

The question is, is the Stewart warner WP worth he $195? or aftremarket with metal impeller at half the price? same question for the thermostat, OEM or replacement at half the price. Since I am at it would it be a good idea to replace the plastic WP pulley with an aluminum one?

I later plan to go to a zionville cooling system which does not include the WP or the Pulley at 80K miles

Thoughts on this is appreciated
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
Age old question.

Has been asked a thousand times.

Start by typing /waterpump F3 in the best links, e.g.,
- What brand of waterpump to buy (1)

If, after reading that thread, you still have questions, that is the right place to ask (so that all the erudite questions are kept together for the NEXT person to benefit).
Quote:
Originally Posted by Guam135i View Post
Thanks, made the decision on the WP now any idea on the Thermostat? and plastic pulley?
Quote:
Originally Posted by bluebee View Post
Again, these questions have been often asked, so, repeating the same approach should work, shouldn't it?

For example, typing /cooling system F3 in the best links nets this, among others:
- List & picture of all the cooling system overhaul recommended parts to replace (1) (2) (3)

Likewise with typing /belt drive F3:
- Recommended parts list for a complete belt drive system overhaul (1)
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Old 10-15-2013, 10:26 AM
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For the crosslinked record, there is a discussion of the BRAND to get for cooling system hoses over here today ...
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Lower radiator hose replacement
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  #16  
Old 03-29-2014, 03:56 AM
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This recent thread by cn90 shows that we should probably replace more hoses than we normally do when we perform a cooling system overhaul:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Cooling system small little hoses, your thoughts?

And this post by RDL provides information about the Dayco replacement pulley:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Belts, Tensioners & Pulley replacement
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdl View Post
...some time ago I found a reference for Dayco 89133 being suitable for the A/C & mechanical serpentine tensioners. (but not hydraulic serpentine)

If your tensioner pulley bearing is simply dry rather than pooched, you can remove the seals carefully and regrease it. Use a high speed spindle bearing grease, these pulleys run up to 15,000 RPM near engine redline. It will be availabe at industrial supply houses or bearing specialists. A tube good for dozens of bearings will run $10 to $15. If you do regrease, pack the race 1/4 to 1/3 full only; don't pack it full as if a wheel bearing. There are DIY's around if you search.
See also:
- How to tell if you have mechanical or hydraulic belt tensioners (1) & how to switch from mechanical to hydraulic (1) and what is the difference between the two types (1) (2) & how to rebuild your hydraulic tensioners (1) & how to re-grease your pulleys and rollers (1) & the answer to the question of adjusting the 540i hydraulic tensioners' belt tension (1) (2)
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  #17  
Old 04-04-2014, 05:43 PM
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There is a nice thread today, with a 540i current parts/price list:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Cooling system replacement on 2000 540i


Quote:
Originally Posted by rixter88 View Post
I'll be picking up a 2000 540i/6 Sport later this month to replace my Honda Civic as my daily driver. It has just under 105k on the odometer and the only cooling system components that have been replaced are the radiator at around 60k and the upper radiator hose this past summer. I've never done any car DIY besides a speaker replacement but I would like to do all the work on this myself. I've already parted out the repair using these forums and realoem.com. I've watched enough videos and read enough DIYs that I'm confident I can do this myself with the right tools (most of which I already have). Before taking the plunge on buying all the parts (I've copied in a spreadsheet I compiled at the bottom of the post), I have a few outstanding questions I wasn't able to answer using these forums:

1. Should I just be reusing the hardware (bolts/washers/etc.) that I pull out with the old parts or am I doing the right thing by getting new stuff?

2. Is there anything I've left off or anything that isn't necessary? I want to replace the belts while I have everything out but should I be replacing pulleys and tensioners as well?

3. I've read a lot of conflicting reports on the quality of aftermarket vs dealer sold expansion tanks. A lot of posts from 3-5 years ago claim the Bosch tank that the dealer sells is much better quality than the aftermarket part. Is this still true?

4. Likewise what I said above about the radiator, seems like everyone has a different opinion/experience regarding brands and their quality. Should I plan to replace any of the radiator mounts with the radiator or reuse what's in there?

5. Am I going to have to shop around for the best prices on all these parts or is there a one stop shop everyone agrees on?

Parts (all the prices were pulled from ECS Tuning):

Fan Assembly
Radiator Fan Clutch 1 11527502804 $134.3
Fan Blade 1 11521712110 $55.22
Torx Bolt With Washer 3 7146959924 $1.19
Water Pump Pulley - 112MM 1 11511742045 $23.01
Hex Bolt With Washer 4 7119904524 $0.99

Water Pump/Thermostat
Remanufactured Water Pump 1 11510393336 $186.71
Water Pump Gasket 1 11511731372 $2.65
Hex Bolt With Washer 4 7119906123 $1.05
BOLTW/WASHER 2 7119902600 $1.57
Thermostat With Housing 1 11531436386 $79.95
Hex Bolt - Pack Of 4 1 11121736603KT $3.96
Coolant Temperature Sensor 1 13621703993 $33.52

Hoses
Radiator Hose - Lower 1 11537505229 $35.12
Coolant Hose 1 11531711377 $25.16
Auxiliary Fan Switch 1 13621433077 $33.52

Radiator/Expansion Tank
Coolant Expansion Tank 1 17111741167 $85.28
Radiator - Manual 1 17111436060 $364.09
Brass Coolant Bleeder Screw 1 17111712788 $5.95

Belt Drive
Air Conditioning V-Belt 1 11281435280 $25.81
Accessory Belt 1 11281432724 $39.69

Sorry for the long winded post, I've spent a lot of time researching this recently and came up with as much information as I could on my own. Thanks in advance to anyone that takes the time to respond.
See also the following summaries:
Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
In a nutshell, this is the best bang for your Irish bucks:
- Reservoir: BMW only
- Rad: Nissens for I6 is good (I have had it for 8y/50K miles. The Nissens for V8 may be a problem. Since you have an I6, use Nissens.

- WP: I use HEPU, zero problems since May 2006 (8y/50K miles).
- Fan Clutch: Sachs only, stay away from Behr.
- Fan Blade: dealer only
- Pulleys: INA
- Belts: Conti
- Tstat: Wahler

Ebay is simply a platform where people sell stuff. If you find appropriate seller selling let's say HEPU WP, then you are OK. Ebay seller is not necessarily a bad thing.
See also:
Quote:
Originally Posted by JDeGraff89 View Post
OE = Original equiptment, Helm may have ment OEM not BMW, OEM is original equiptment manufacturer, like Behr made our radiators, Bremi makes the coil packs, so if you order OEM (Behr, Bremi, Bosch, Ect.) Instead of a part made by these companies with a BMW logo printed on it, one more example. BMW brand sparkplugs are NGK with BMW printed on it. They cost 27 bucks per plug. Buy an NGK plug without the BMW,it costs 12
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Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 05-29-2014 at 09:11 AM.
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  #18  
Old 08-08-2014, 07:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Only1Balto View Post
having all the information here is a God send.
I try to improve upon what bothered me, and, in my cooling system overhaul, it happened suddenly, and I had to order parts from Max that day, and I didn't have all the information in front of me.

As it was, I ordered the main parts but I would have ordered more o-rings, and gaskets and things like that, while I was there, so, that's why it's nice to see what others ordered, when they did theirs.

To that end, here's a cn90 recommendation posted today ...
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > 528i temperature creeping up while sitting idle.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
Before you run into disaster, do a cooling overhaul.
Any parts recently replaced, keep them.
Anything suspicious, replace them.

Brief rundown:
- Pulleys: INA --> best bang for the bucks. Keep the tenioners, unless the boot is cracked.
- Reservoir: BMW only. No Behr.
- WP: Hepu
- Fan Clutch, if yours is still good keep it. Otherwise Sachs only! No Behr!
- WP Pulley: if more than 140K: dealer.
- Belts: Continental
- Tstat housing: dealer
- Tstat: Wahler 92C.
- Rad: Nissens.

- Coolant: I use Prestone Green + Distilled water.

Use autohausaz dot com and/or eeuroparts dot com for parts.
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Old 08-12-2014, 12:54 PM
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Here's a head gasket parts list posted today ...
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > What it cost me to replace the head gasket

Quote:
Originally Posted by jzbrown View Post
Still need to write up what I learned from a rookie perspective on this job, but here is a very close figure for what it actually cost. I see these adds around here on craigs list selling 3's and 5's with a blown head gasket saying for about 5-700 you can get it fixed. Not even close.
I can see why a lot of folks just go with a used engine. This was on a m52 cast iron block.

See also:
- What is the recommended parts list for a complete cooling system overhaul (1) quickie telephone verbal instructions for unlocking the high instrument cluster on the E39 to test the koolant KTMP (1) & how to tell whether you have the high or low on board computer cluster (1) & a video showing how to unlock the low OBC (1) or the high OBC cluster for diagnostics (1) & how to change the OBC MID IHKA KTMP temperature from degrees Celcius to Fahrenheit (1) & how to locate all the cooling system hoses in the BMW E39 (1) & how to non-destructively remove the heater hoses (1) or radiator nipple (1) or expansion tank nipple (1) or overflow hose Oetiker clamp (1) & how not to misplace the thermostat wiring loom (1) & how not to twist a plastic bleeder screw (1) & the cn90 trick to get the fan clutch nut back on (1) & bluebee tricks to get the radiator back on in the I6 automatic (1) & the teklord69 trick to cutting the fan shroud so that the viscous van clutch nut can be removed easily (1) & what is the proper coolant level bobber stick height (1) & what to do when your expansion tank coolant level sensor float measuring stick is MIA missing in action (1) & a mechanical fan clutch delete to switch to an electrical fan (1) & where to find leaks when the CHECK COOLANT LEVEL is lit on the instrument cluster (1) & a pictorial saga of all the ways the cooling system can fail (1) & how to diagnose lack of HVAC/IHKA heater core heat with cooling system (auxiliary pump) at idle (1) & where the coolant level sensor cable goes (1) & what is the o-ring size for the coolant temperature aux fan thermoswitch (1) & how the thermostat works, including what the normal temperature of the coolant is when the thermostat opens under normal conditions (1) & how to remove just the expansion tank to repair a leak during your cooling system overhaul (1) & how the expansion tank works (1) & users' behr/hella cooling system autopsy photos (1) & what to check on your new Behr/Hella expansion tanks to ensure it's not DOA (1) & how to test the cooling system auxiliary electrical fan (1) & a how to replace the aux fan (1) & where is the auxiliary fan fuse F75 (1) & where is the aux fan relay (1) & how to make your own BMW special cooling & belt drive system counterhold tools (1) & how to retrofit brass bleeder screws (1) & how to modify the cooling system expansion tank 2 bar cap to 1.2 bar to vent at a lower pressure (1) & how to modify the cooling system pressure with zero psi coolant (1) & how to eliminate weak recycled plastic with Zionsville aluminum (1) & how not to (JB Weld) fix a cracked radiator or other cooling system overhaul leaks (1) & how to tell the age of your cooling system by its date date codes, stickers, and plastic molded markings (1) & how to retrofit a coolant level sensor to an E39 that doesn't have it (1) & how to test the cooling system auxiliary electrical fan (1) (2) & a DIY for how to replace the aux fan (1) (2) (3) & where is the infamous auxilliary fan Fuse F75 (1) & where is the auxiliary fan relay (1) & summary advice to provide users who suspect a major engine repair due to overheating (1) & how to test an overheated engine for a blown head gasket, cracked heads, a warped block, stripped head bolt threads, cam seizures, contaminated bearings, coolant hydrolock, or piston, ring, or valve damage (1) & what are the major factors in deciding whether to rebuild the engine, replace the engine, or sell the car (1) & a DIY for replacing the I6 M54 head gasket (1) & a DIY for replacing the V8 M62TU head gasket (1) & why these engines are so prone to heat-related damage in the first place (1) & welding the crack between cylinder #3 and the water jacket on the exhaust side (1) & what engine swaps are most recommended (1) & where to obtain a new or rebuilt head (1) or a replacement short block or long block (1) & how to lift & remove the engine (1) & how long can you drive your BMW E39 with the viscous fan clutch removed (1) & what is the most often recommended coolant (1) & tricks for efficient flushing (1) draining (1) bleeding (1) and coolant refilling DIYs (1)
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Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
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  #20  
Old 12-19-2012, 05:45 AM
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There was a clarification comment on this cooling system overhaul parts list over here today:
Quote:
Originally Posted by BM109R View Post
This is also my next DIY project. I've already replaced all the tensioners and belts recently so I only need the WP, thermostat, hoses and, expansion tank, fan, fan clutch radiator. My question is should I also include the vent hose that goes from expansion tank to radiator? I do not see that listed in any of the recommended parts list. I have attached a picture. The part number is 17111427156.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BM109R View Post
Just saw the hose I was checking for on the list. On realoem it is called vent hose while on cn90's list it is the bypass hose.
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  #21  
Old 12-27-2012, 07:30 PM
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BM109R BM109R is offline
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my coolant overhaul parts

So I am amassing my parts for the coolant overhaul from different sources and i have a couple of questions before I make my last order:

-From the attached image, how critical is it to change the three marked hoses? Are those known to wear out and leak to at around the same time as everything else?
-Does the nissin radiator come with a drain plug and are there any fitment issues different from OEM. Is it better than behr?

Thank you.
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  #22  
Old 12-29-2012, 09:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BM109R View Post
how critical is it to change the three marked hoses?
My understanding is that most people do not change them - but it's probably a good idea to replace any and all rubber at the age of our vehicles.

But I would base any deeper assessment on a visual check and the current prices.



Quote:
Originally Posted by BM109R View Post
Are those known to wear out and leak to at around the same time as everything else?
Looking at this thread, from an anecdotal perspective, these hoses are not unreliable:
- Pictorial look at typical E39 cooling system failure modes (1)

Quote:
Originally Posted by BM109R View Post
Does the nissin radiator come with a drain plug
IIRC, mine did.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BM109R View Post
and are there any fitment issues different from OEM.
Getting the Behr out of the vehicle isn't all that difficult:
- Removal instructions for the alternator & drive belt system of a 2002 525i
- Removal instructions for the fan shroud of a 2002 525i
- Tools necessary for a cooling system overhaul
etc.

But, on the automatic I6, getting the Nissens/Behr back in is the hardest part:
- One user's cooling system overhaul: How to get the radiator back on (1)

Quote:
Originally Posted by BM109R View Post
Is it better than behr?
Methinks they all stink.

Personally, I don't wish to reward Behr for making garbage - so I bought Nissens garbage instead.

Here you see what the Behr looks like inside:
- Behr radiator and Behr expansion (aka surge) tank autopsy (1) (2)
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Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 03-29-2014 at 03:59 AM.
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  #23  
Old 05-22-2013, 09:11 PM
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bluebee bluebee is offline
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Location: San Jose, California
 
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Mein Auto: 02 BMW 525i M54 auto 130K
For the record, there is a good thread on locating all the cooling system hoses here today:
-> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Want to replace cooling system heater hoses.

See also:
- How to tell if you have mechanical or hydraulic belt tensioners (1) & how to switch from mechanical to hydraulic (1) and what is the difference between the two types (1) (2) & how to rebuild your hydraulic tensioners (1) & how to re-grease your pulleys and rollers (1) & the answer to the question of adjusting the 540i hydraulic tensioners' belt tension (1) (2)
__________________
Each repair should invariably add to our knowledge base by the process of inexorable incrementalism.
Your job, in return, is to read the suggested threads, where the best people will always add value to those threads, either by pictures or by descriptions, so the next person with the same problem stands on your shoulders.
See also: E39 Bestlinks & How to easily find what you need

Last edited by bluebee; 03-29-2014 at 04:01 AM.
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  #24  
Old 06-07-2013, 04:16 PM
Solo12 Solo12 is offline
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Location: NYC
 
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 457
Mein Auto: e39 530i e28 535is(Sold)
First of all thank you to Bluebee and all the others who have contributed to a great thread. I have some questions about the auxiliary water pump.



ID & Part #
  1. Is that the aux water pump in that pic?
  2. If it is how do I find the part number for it? I can't seem to find a part number for it on any of the parts diagrams. I wonder if that means my car (model and year) does not have it?

Replacement?
Unless I missed it in this thread no one really discussed whether this part should be replaced during a cooling overhaul. Any thoughts/input on the expected life of this part?

Also if I should be posting this question in a different thread please let me know I don't want to clutter up a great thread with a question that should go someplace else.
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E39 2003 530i: SP, CWP, PP, Manual, Sunshades, Split folding rear seats, 17" Style 42s
E28 1987 535is: Manual, Bilstein HDs, 16" Style 5v2 (from e38)[Sold]

Last edited by Solo12; 06-07-2013 at 04:21 PM.
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  #25  
Old 06-09-2013, 09:50 AM
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shaftdrive shaftdrive is offline
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Mein Auto: 1999 K1200 & 2001 525
Quote:
Originally Posted by Solo12 View Post
Is that the aux water pump in that pic?
Yes. In reality, it's mounted vertically, on the drivers side of the radiator, on the inside edge, almost at the bottom, so the easiest access is from below.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Solo12 View Post
how do I find the part number for it?
Unfortunately I don't know what models have it and what ones don't.
But if you type in your VIN to http://realoem.com, it should tell you if you have it.

I checked my Realoem vin and it's found in Heater and Air Conditioning Water pump, valve, hoses Hoses f pump and valve/autom.air cond.
You can google for my part number to get an idea of prices 64118381989.
http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-...Fck-MgodH0QARQ
http://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/2968...Fc9DMgodIBMA9w


Quote:
Originally Posted by Solo12 View Post
no one really discussed whether this part should be replaced during a cooling overhaul. Any thoughts/input on the expected life of this part?
I don't know anybody who has replaced it and it's not a normally replaced part in a cooling system overhaul.
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Last edited by shaftdrive; 06-09-2013 at 10:04 AM.
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