my m50 doodooface swap

not really documenting my m50 swap but after a lot of agony me and steve went through the passed couple days with my swap i am happy to have the motor set in. I bought $6.99 a piece plugs (E3 spark plugs) and a $80 bimmerworld boot that was very very poorly made (and not worth it). Of course i bought all new brakes as well, brembo blanks with Hawk HPS street pads.





I also made spacers to raise my motor 1/2" to keep my oil pan from hanging so low.


Brakes


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I would ditch the spacers and have a plate weled to the oil pan. It can be done after you are too no need to take it off. What trans are you running? First swap I ever did was an 89 e30 non vanos GL.

Originally Posted by SWISS

I would ditch the spacers and have a plate weled to the oil pan. It can be done after you are too no need to take it off. What trans are you running? First swap I ever did was an 89 e30 non vanos GL.

i'm running my g260. I want nothing welded to my oil pan, in no way shape or form would that help anything. if i weld a plate on the bottom it will hook more stuff, if i weld a plate on the front it will still hook bumps. there is no win in that.

Originally Posted by SWISS

I would ditch the spacers and have a plate weled to the oil pan. It can be done after you are too no need to take it off. What trans are you running? First swap I ever did was an 89 e30 non vanos GL.

welding a plate simply does nothing for protection. you also cant weld a pan with oil on/in it. oil near a weld is bad news.

i have a buddy who came from the VW world, after a short drive in my car he went and picked up an e30. he has welded a plate on the bottom .. blew it out. shortened the bottom of the pan a 1/4" .. blew it out. cut off the square front of the pan and welded on thick plate at an angle so it wasnt such a sharp edge .. recieved a text a few hours ago .. it blew out. you simply cannot weld any piece of aluminum and expect it not to shatter.

vw pans are out of any danger, he is new to BMW. he isnt used to an oil pan in a murder zone.

needs more displacement ;p

can you provide anymore detail on the spacers for the engine? are you using the E28 mounts and E36 arms? im thinking i might raise mine a bit as well

e36 arms, e28 mounts. they are 1/2" spacers he machined here at my house.

So ur swapping the M50 in your other eta, the one without the facelift?

Originally Posted by noexceptions325

So ur swapping the M50 in your other eta, the one without the facelift?

right now 3 e30's are in my name. my delphin which i gave to steve (which is cut up in pieces) my blue car that i am giving to steve and my black one that has the m50 in it. all eta's. I have never owned a facelift. I am thinking about rebadging the black car with the m50 to 318 so people think it's a bull**** little 4cyl.

sweet.. so ur rocking diving boards on the black one?
i like the 318 idea.. but it would be better if u got euro bumpers and a 316 badge

Originally Posted by noexceptions325

sweet.. so ur rocking diving boards on the black one?
i like the 318 idea.. but it would be better if u got euro bumpers and a 316 badge

I'm converting to plastic bumpers. I'm rocking it stock suspension and maybe the fake mt2 (minus front valance) for a while.

i got my style 19s today from the machine shop. obviously they were redrilled to 4x100.

http://s15.photobucket.com/albums/a3...019%20redrill/

what did they ill the 5x100 holes with? from the front i almost thought it was JB weld LOL but from the back im thinkign they actually welded them?

Originally Posted by noexceptions325

what did they ill the 5x100 holes with? from the front i almost thought it was JB weld LOL but from the back im thinkign they actually welded them?

5x120 Learn your shiz n00b. they welded the old lug pattern and redrilled the 4x100 lug pattern.

as you can tell from the grammerz in my last post i may be slitghly under the influence cut me some slacks.. i am no noob my friend

Originally Posted by fcsteve

welding a plate simply does nothing for protection. you also cant weld a pan with oil on/in it. oil near a weld is bad news.

i have a buddy who came from the VW world, after a short drive in my car he went and picked up an e30. he has welded a plate on the bottom .. blew it out. shortened the bottom of the pan a 1/4" .. blew it out. cut off the square front of the pan and welded on thick plate at an angle so it wasnt such a sharp edge .. recieved a text a few hours ago .. it blew out. you simply cannot weld any piece of aluminum and expect it not to shatter.

vw pans are out of any danger, he is new to BMW. he isnt used to an oil pan in a murder zone.

There is soo much young punk retarded doo doo in your post I cringe when I read your idiotic trite and condescending responses. The fact that you thought when I said it could stay on the car you think they wouldn't drain the oil first before they started welding on it?

Second, You are proving to us that you truly go at this like a monkey phukin a football= Totally ridiculous. The spacers are scewing of the geometry of the driveline and you are trying to raise the motor to allow bottom clearance? If the pan is too tall, you shorten it, not raise the motor and change drive angles and the operation level of the engine.

Third, you can weld an oil pan, watched it be done in '97 on a friends 325es that was missing the front and side of the pan. Sundance Welding had him back on the road for $250 in one day, same pan, no subframe drop or raise the engine. MY OLD E30 had a piece of flat aluminum with some holes drilled in it welded to the front and curled around the bottom of my old one. Same place did that in '06 Sundance, and the guy in Kentucky that bought it still is driving it just the way it was.

So,stop acting like a know it all so you don't end up looking like a
straight dumba$$.

Swiss

the arrogance and steroid like rage in your post is mildly amusing.

have you ever driven a slammed e30 ? i mean slammed, not some girly h&r race type setup.

so a guibo might only last 3/4 of its expected life, its a better way to go then just leaving the oil pan raw dogging in a kill zone.

welding a plate to the bottom is a garbage idea, period. no matter how much **** you weld to the bottom it will still be thin above and around that plate. you are just transferring that energy into other weak places on the pan. its been proven .. more times then you can deny.

Originally Posted by bimmeupscottiee

I don't think a 1/2" is gonna mess with the drive angles enough to cause an issue. Welding a plate to the oil pan is stupid, welding it would weaken the metal. Skid plates sit under the pan so that it takes the impact before it gets to the pan, that would be more effective for protecting the pan. But he said he is going to run the stock suspension so the 1/2" should make it safe to not have anything.

nobody sells a skidplate that is worth buying for the e30.

So I've heard. I was just stating it would be better than welding anything to the pan. I think its a good idea. Anything to get that pan out of the kill zone is a good idea. If he is leaving it a stock height it wont be that bad anyways.

Originally Posted by bimmeupscottiee

So I've heard. I was just stating it would be better than welding anything to the pan. I think its a good idea. Anything to get that pan out of the kill zone is a good idea. If he is leaving it a stock height it wont be that bad anyways.

i believe he is only staying stock height for winter/fall. so come spring/summer he will be back to the low life.

I don't think a 1/2" is gonna mess with the drive angles enough to cause an issue. Welding a plate to the oil pan is stupid, welding it would weaken the metal. Skid plates sit under the pan so that it takes the impact before it gets to the pan, that would be more effective for protecting the pan. But he said he is going to run the stock suspension so the 1/2" should make it safe to not have anything.

ill be back lowered on 17x8 style 19s. but in the winter ill be chillin stock ride height with no coilovers, ill have then sit in my room.

Swiss you really don't understand. it's just plain and simple. 1/2" really won't destroy anything. something like 3/4" and 1" will, believe me i read up on it before i actually did it.

Originally Posted by anstead610

ill be back lowered on 17x8 style 19s. but in the winter ill be chillin stock ride height with no coilovers, ill have then sit in my room.

So your gonna switch out the strut housings every year

Originally Posted by bimmeupscottiee

So your gonna switch out the strut housings every year

No i'm going to use my current housings. the housings with the coilovers on them have bad wheel bearings and i'm too lazy to change them since there are good ones currently on my car. once the coilovers are on they're staying on. i just dont have the time to take them off the blue car then put them on this car.

Oh... I took it the wrong way. I thought you meant that you were going to have coilovers in the spring/summer. and then in the winter time switch back to stock. I get it so your just staying stock till this winter is over then installing the coilovers. sorry for the confusion haha.

I don't know about "slammed", but my old E30 was pretty low. It drug most speed bumps before the m50 swap and I had trashed 2 pans already. I did it to thicken the front and bottom for those times you drag over speed bumps. I would have done the sides too if I wanted to go for total strength. Point is the thicker the metal the stronger it is, period. And welding an oil pan is common and happens all the time. If you are running stock you should be ok, but I would be careful I hope they are a good quality TC Kline or Ground Control set.

fact is it doesnt matter how thick the bottom is if the sides are still stock size. welding a plate simply puts that stress on other parts of the pan which are just as thin. bottom could be a thousand feet of solid aluminum and it means nothing, the sides/back will take that force and blow out just as easy. we are well aware welding an oil pan is common. its just not useful.