Replacing exhaust manifold?

Can i replace exhaust manifold in my garage or this can only do a mechanic?

For Z3 coupe.

If someone has pictures how to do it, i will be most gratefull.

Go to http://tis.spaghetticoder.org/

Start with the E36 to select your model of Z3.

The manifold is under the engine section.

It looks like a good review of what you would need to do.

I see only two pictures, that doesnt help me with question if i can replace manifold myselfe or this is a job explicite for mechanic?

Since you didn't post which car you have and you have not stated you abilities, it may be hard to be specific. I have not done this my self, but it doesn't look that hard. Maybe someone who has done this work will post.

I've replaced the exhaust manifolds on S-52 & S-54 M Rdstrs/Coupes, and on the Z3 2.8 (M-54) Coupe.

It's doable, but patience and a full toolbox* is required.



* you'll need every configuration of an 11mm socket, and 11mm wrench that you can imagine, and an assortment of extensions, in BOTH 1/4" & 3/8" drive. There are even instances of me making wrenches to fit the job. This is just the manifold to head interface, the rest of the job is pretty straight forward. On some cars, I am left wondering if it wouldn't have been quicker, let alone easier, to have removed the engine...

Hi Randy,

Hope to have a set of shorty Turner headers soon. Been buying the nuts and stuff ahead of time. The Manifold to head nuts came as 12mm from the dealer not 11mm as you noted in this old post. Think it's possible they changed to 12mm?

Originally Posted by Randy Forbes

I've replaced the exhaust manifolds on S-52 & S-54 M Rdstrs/Coupes, and on the Z3 2.8 (M-54) Coupe.

It's doable, but patience and a full toolbox* is required.



* you'll need every configuration of an 11mm socket, and 11mm wrench that you can imagine, and an assortment of extensions, in BOTH 1/4" & 3/8" drive. There are even instances of me making wrenches to fit the job. This is just the manifold to head interface, the rest of the job is pretty straight forward. On some cars, I am left wondering if it wouldn't have been quicker, let alone easier, to have removed the engine...

Originally Posted by bob lindquist

Hi Randy,

Hope to have a set of shorty Turner headers soon. Been buying the nuts and stuff ahead of time. The Manifold to head nuts came as 12mm from the dealer not 11mm as you noted in this old post. Think it's possible they changed to 12mm?

As long as the thread size (M7) is the same, theoretically they should work. Test one on a stud poking out ahead of time to be sure...

The only problem as I see it, is that there's a couple of studs that are 99.9% impossible to get the nut on, and a 12mm tool size (vs 11mm) will complicate that. Worst case, you could reuse a couple of the original nuts in those few places that are difficult to access.

Definitely test the nut on a stud though, because I ordered some (for my impending twinscrew installation...) not all that long ago, and they were supplied as 11mm (across the flats).

Terry and Camille's car: I swear on the Bible that it took me over twenty (>20) minutes to get that nut on! Confirmed__picture says thirty (30)!

I double checked the nuts I have in stock . I bought them in two lots. The first lot (in my parts draw are correct 11MM) the second lot bought last week (I was short 4) were wrong. part number correct but wrong nuts(12mm).

Hey Randy some of those old Photos are no longer showing in the posts. Are they available elsewhere?

Originally Posted by Randy Forbes

As long as the thread size (M7) is the same, theoretically they should work. Test one on a stud poking out ahead of time to be sure...

The only problem as I see it, is that there's a couple of studs that are 99.9% impossible to get the nut on, and a 12mm tool size (vs 11mm) will complicate that. Worst case, you could reuse a couple of the original nuts in those few places that are difficult to access.

Definitely test the nut on a stud though, because I ordered some (for my impending twinscrew installation...) not all that long ago, and they were supplied as 11mm (across the flats).

Terry and Camille's car: I swear on the Bible that it took me over twenty (>20) minutes to get that nut on! Confirmed__picture says thirty (30)!

Well here I am. Geeze this is real tuff to get the tool on. Have the nut on, actually wasn't too bad. BUT...getting a socket on is another thing all together!!

Randy,

what was your sequence here? 11mm 1/4 drive socket, then universal, then extension?

I had good success using a gear wrench for many of the nuts.



[/QUOTE]

As the manifold studs using a locknut (copper plated steel) and the portion of the stud sticking out beyond the nut rusts easily, the studs almost always come out with the nuts__this can be a blessing!

It is BY FAR easier and cheaper to replace the studs and nuts (retail prices are .35 & .78 CENTS each). Buy these ahead of time, depending on the number you need__either eighteen (18) or twenty-four (24), for the 6-cylinder engines I've worked on.

A couple of more recent jobs:

http://www.rfdm.com/gallery/album199?page=6 and http://www.rfdm.com/gallery/album217?page=38


Like I was saying...









I put this set on with the engine out of the car__distinct advantage (after TMS saw the picture,they asked to use it on their website)

I have 2.8 L engine.

I am asking if i can replace manifold without puting the engine out of the car?

Originally Posted by markobb

i have 2.8 l engine.

I am asking if i can replace manifold without puting the engine out of the car?

yes

I really want to do this mod.

Originally Posted by bob lindquist

yes

Realy, im thinking that is very litle place to unscrew screws, and than its possible that screws are rusted becouse water and high temperatures.

Does anybody have step by step guide to do this replacing?

Originally Posted by markobb

Realy, im thinking that is very litle place to unscrew screws, and than its possible that screws are rusted becouse water and high temperatures.

Does anybody have step by step guide to do this replacing?

The studs in the cylinder will come out pretty easy; this, and replacing the studs and nuts has already been covered ^

For (MUCH) greater access, I remove the sheetmetal barrier around the electrical box. This takes about 10-15 minutes to do (and a similar amount of time to replace) but it is well worth the trouble. Don't get me wrong, you'll still have scraped up arms, but at least you'll be able to get your arm in there.

Of all the sets I've replaced, and the times they needed to come off so the head could be pulled, only once (1) was the engine out of the car.

I don't do write ups, I'll refer you to the BMW TIS (workshop manual) and pictures; you're either capable and willing to try, or you aren't.

These are pictures of a 2.8 (Coupe) that had to have the head come off; yours should be nearly identical:

This shows access with sheetmetal barrier removed; manifolds still in place



Manifolds off





The car's owner, Bill, removing head bolts



Plenty of room now!



Spot-facing the sealing surface for #5 sparkplug (!)





Bob: you can do this. The TMS Shorty Headers fit very well, and only a couple of the nuts (1 in particular) is a pain to get started. If I was in Florida...

Randy,

Were these headers sent out for some type of High Temp Coating?








I put this set on with the engine out of the car__distinct advantage (after TMS saw the picture,they asked to use it on their website)





[/quote]

Randy, what was this picture about?









I

I have the swivel head craftsman wrenches that make it a much easier task.

Swapped out my headers in about a week, working a max of 30 minutes a night start to finish.

You will need new copper nuts, as they are one time use (I think)

Really not all that challenging if you go slow and take your time.

Originally Posted by bob lindquist

Randy,

Were these headers sent out for some type of High Temp Coating?

Turner supplies them already coated; pretty durable finish, as they weren't scuffed during the install.

Originally Posted by bob lindquist

Randy, what was this picture about?

Showing off. Instead of using a torch to heat up and bend tools, I can now do the with this:

Is this pretty much just swapping stock manifold for headers (other than flange thickness issue)? Any negatives? Will these headers run hotter thru the exhaust and cat? Will this cause either of them to have to be replaced sooner? O2 sensers? Would this void a CPO warranty? I'm tempted. Is the difficulty level about the same as doing a valve adjustment?

Originally Posted by KenTenn

Is the difficulty level about the same as doing a valve adjustment?

Checking/adjusting the valves is much easier.

It's been a while since I looked (at PAL's car) but you have more clearance on the side of the engine, so it may not be quite as bad on the Z4, as it is on the Z3.

The scrapes/scratches on my arms are only now healed...

Well, since your existing cats are in the headers, you are essentially deleting the cats.

Otherwise there wouldn't be much point.

How does that affect emissions testing?

Unless you bolt in the euro cats to go with the euro headers, then you will definitely fail emissions.

Originally Posted by Mpire

Unless you bolt in the euro cats to go with the euro headers, then you will definitely fail emissions.

I thought the "ebay header thing" sounded too good to be true. I was under the impression that all I had to do was unbolt the existing exhaust manifold, slide the headers in, move the O2 sensers, bolt everything together, and voila! Zoom zoom!

Should have known I couldn't get off with just $100-200...what WAS I thinking?