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E63 / E64 6 Series (2004 - 2010)
The E63/E64 BMW 6 Series builds on BMW's sporty heritage with aggressive lines and an incredible motor to back the design up. Available in coupe and convertible trims with a standard 4.8 liter engine producing 360 horsepower and 360 lb-ft of torque, the 6-series is a popular choice that exceeds expectations.

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  #1  
Old 04-16-2011, 07:12 AM
incorrigible incorrigible is offline
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Uneven rear tire wear common?

Bought my 08 w 11k miles and during the wheel swap I noticed uneven rear tire wear - these tires are almost shot on the INSIDE. Is this common or were the wheels mis-aligned at the factory? Thanks in advance for anyones replies.
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Last edited by incorrigible; 04-16-2011 at 07:14 AM.
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  #2  
Old 04-16-2011, 08:23 AM
AFCNEAL AFCNEAL is offline
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Run-Flats?

Yep - usual issues! Get rid, save 50% and more life in each tyre and better ride!
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  #3  
Old 04-16-2011, 09:25 AM
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650 Ryder 650 Ryder is offline
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I wouldn't call it normal. It's more of a tire pressure issue. I got great life out of my tires.......only changed the rears and that was around 35k if I remember correctly. Turned the car in at 39k..........Phil
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  #4  
Old 04-16-2011, 10:37 AM
JPEG23 JPEG23 is offline
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It is normal but preventable. The camber on the 6ers needs to be adjusted to factory specs, quite often(6months-year) or you'll go through tires like water...just another preventive maintenance thing.


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  #5  
Old 04-16-2011, 01:36 PM
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I would get an alignment and also check the condition of the bushings in the rear suspension. When bushings start to wear you can bad toe-out during acceleration which will give you a narrow band of tire wear like in your pics.
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  #6  
Old 11-27-2011, 05:54 PM
marty123$ marty123$ is offline
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Dealer says I need a $350 " dynamic balancing " ??????
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  #7  
Old 11-13-2012, 11:05 AM
richardp3 richardp3 is offline
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I know this is an old thread, but thought I would add: I've replaced my rear Bridgestone Potenza Run Flat's 3 times in the last 2 years, getting almost exactly 8,000 miles out of each set. Classic BMW in Dallas performed the alignment when the tires were changed. I took it to a non-BMW german service garage, and they said the camber was adjusted correctly, but the toe was drastically out and was causing the tires to wear one inch of the inside down to the threads while the rest of the tread remained. He corrected the toe and said he feels confident that he's fixed the tire wear problem. We're going to check it in 3,000 miles.
I called Classic BMW who told me that the factory setting for the toe is aggressive for good handling and that's the way they set it. I was told "Some M cars are having their tires replaced every 7,000 miles". Well, I suppose that's great for Classic BMW's tire sales. I made my tire wear concerns known, and they still set it to max tread wear. I'll try to come back and update whether the new alignment cures my tire wear problem.
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  #8  
Old 10-11-2015, 06:37 PM
mws007 mws007 is offline
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I also have had this issue = was it solved ??
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  #9  
Old 10-11-2015, 07:11 PM
FredoinSF FredoinSF is online now
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There is nothing to solve. it's the cost of the power and handling that comes with this car. It eats through tires. You could buy non directional tire and flip them.
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  #10  
Old 10-11-2015, 07:48 PM
tampamark tampamark is offline
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The stock alignment causes the inner to wear heavily. If you want to flatten out the rear tires you would need to purchase and install a camber kit, the stock setup won't get you there. See below:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...ght=camber+kit
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  #11  
Old 04-28-2016, 09:12 AM
BMW645CA BMW645CA is offline
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Hello everyone, I was reading through some of trends for causing a worn inner tire. I understand that some of our vehicles might have a bit more aggressive alignment due to our dynamic Drive, but when the camber us so bad that it cracks the rim several time it hits a bump it's way to much.

So my question is, do anyone here know how to Adjust a negative camber on a 6 series w/pictures or video (preferably). I'm going on my third rim and I don't want it to go any further.

Thanks.
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  #12  
Old 04-28-2016, 05:30 PM
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roseng roseng is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMW645CA View Post
Hello everyone, I was reading through some of trends for causing a worn inner tire. I understand that some of our vehicles might have a bit more aggressive alignment due to our dynamic Drive, but when the camber us so bad that it cracks the rim several time it hits a bump it's way to much.

So my question is, do anyone here know how to Adjust a negative camber on a 6 series w/pictures or video (preferably). I'm going on my third rim and I don't want it to go any further.

Thanks.
The issue is not your alignment, it's your rims. What wheels are you running? If they are the stock 645 rims, they were so bad, there was a class action about them (sorry you're too late).

I had 3 bad rims and changed to M series wheels and no more issues.

The negative camber in the rear is to get better contact on hard cornering. You can buy a kit to change it but that won't stop your wheels from breaking.
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  #13  
Old 04-28-2016, 02:58 PM
OLE MAN OLE MAN is offline
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Gentlemen, I have two 650i, a 2008 and a 2010 , both had alignment set at 0 camber and 0 toe in , front and rear, 37 psi inflation, smooth as silk and only minor flat ware, front and rear . I use GATTOS in Melbourne Fl, see Mike Green 321-421-6600 ,excellent service. all the best OLE MAN.
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  #14  
Old 04-28-2016, 05:56 PM
BMW645CA BMW645CA is offline
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It's only the right rear rim that was cracking onn the inner side. The other wheel seems to be working just find. The wheels that I'm running now are also M series. So hopefully that helps abit.
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  #15  
Old 04-28-2016, 07:58 PM
HerbP HerbP is offline
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I think that the cracking rim problem was from a combination of a poor wheel, & the RFT tires stressing them to much. The ride with a standard tire, is a world of difference.
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  #16  
Old 03-15-2017, 03:46 PM
mws007 mws007 is offline
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Uneven inside tire wear

Yes - my 2004 645 burnt them right off on the I-75 - started flying into pieces
My 2007 650 now are all burnt off the 1st 3 or so inches on the inside - back - the canter was so bad that I cracked a rim on the inside also because all the weight of the car was on that inside edge - took to a shop and got as much canter reduced as I could
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  #17  
Old 03-17-2017, 08:13 AM
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Laslonimne Laslonimne is offline
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Ready for a contrarian opinion?
I’ve had my E64 for seven and a half years now. I’ve gone through several sets of run-flats. I get an annual alignment from the dealer using BMW specifications. My car has been on several very long road trips on two-lane byways. Passing on two-lane roads I often take advantage of what I call “squirt power” – the ability to get around and back in my lane quickly. I’m also not beyond a few stoplight drag races with anything that looks challenging.
So here’s my observation: applying full power at virtually any speed below 120 mph will cause the rear of the car to squat and the tires will haze. The squat is because of the design of the rear suspension. One side effect is wear on the inside of the rear tires.
I have over 8,000 miles on my current tires. With no road trips or drag races on them, the inside edge of the rear tires look like new.
My conclusion is that if you drive the way it was built to be driven, the tires are sacrificial. Drive it like an old man and they’ll last much longer.
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  #18  
Old 03-27-2017, 05:39 PM
rgwarren718 rgwarren718 is offline
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If I may, can I disagree with you Lasonimne.

I have a 550I which tomorrow I am having my rear tires changed because the inside tread is gone to the point that the wire cords are showing. I have the blood stains to prove it. I am 65 years old and drive like an old man. The tires are Goodyear Eagle F1 with around 16,000 miles. Same old story as most, as the tire is good for another 15,000 miles except for the inside corner. I do not think it is the driving but the car. I am going to take it to BMW and tell them to take all the camber out of the rear. I want the tires to run flat at 75 MPH.

Just my two cents worth for an old fart.
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Old 03-27-2017, 06:54 PM
tampamark tampamark is offline
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Someone yell "get off my lawn" already

Wait, you guys may be old but you are VERY young at heart cruising in BMW style.

OK, if you want to straighten out your tires don't just leave it to the dealer to sort out for you, they will probably jam you with some high cost items or quote the BMW verse. Your best bet is to install a camber kit that will allow you to have a shop adjust past what the factory allows. I don't know about the 5, but for the 6 you cannot adjust the camber to the point of getting your tire flat. This is the kit that has been used by others on this board and they report that it does not negatively effect performance but it does positively impact your tire wear.

This is the one for the 6, probably the same for the 5?

bavauto.com
$289.95 (rear camber kit)
part # 193726

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=643198


Optimize rear camber to maximize performance or tire wear. Bavarian Autosport's adjustable camber kit replaces both inner bushings on rear lower control arm, allowing you to fine-tune camber to suit your purpose, whether it's better handling at the track or prolonging the life of your rear tires--especially important if you have lowered you BMW's chassis or installed 'plus size' wheels. Kit comes with a handy tool for installation and removal of bushings. Allows approximately 2.00 degrees of adjustment on a car lowered 40mm.
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  #20  
Old 03-28-2017, 06:12 AM
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roseng roseng is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rgwarren718 View Post
The tires are Goodyear Eagle F1 with around 16,000 miles. Same old story as most, as the tire is good for another 15,000 miles except for the inside corner. .
Quote:
Originally Posted by tampamark View Post
OK, if you want to straighten out your tires don't just leave it to the dealer. Your best bet is to install a camber kit that will allow you to have a shop adjust past what the factory allows.
There is more to this than just the camber. The car is designed this way for better contact in sharp cornering. Us more experienced folks may not drive that hard so that may not be a big priority.

Tampamark is right that you need a kit to get the camber totally "corrected" as there is not enough adjustment in a stock set up to flatten out the camber.

BUT... here is my experience! I also do not push my car, so at first the uneven wear was disturbing to me. When I got the car with 35k miles the stock tires were run flats and were shot almost to the metal in the inside rear.

I replaced them with Hankook V12s a highly rated tire. I thought they felt OK. I travel a lot and the car can sit for 2 weeks at a time. After sitting for a week or more they would develop a vibration from flat spots that would go away after driving 15-20 mile on the highway. Even with that there was always some vibration in the car that I thought was just the car.

After about 20k-22K miles the inner rear was seriously warn and time for a new set of rubber. On the advice of a retired but amazingly helpful member Yorgi, I went with Michelin PSS (Pilot Super Sport).

For the first time my car drove like glass with no vibration. The tires wore very evenly with only a minor offset from inner to outer on the rear. Never a flat spot or vibration.

Last week I retired them with over 35K miles and replaced them with a new set of the same tire. Clearly, the best tire I have ever owned.

Frankly the cost of the camber kit plus installation is about $600+ and I actually think the real issue is the tires.

If you want to save $$$, than spend more on tires.

And occasionally drive it like you stole it so get your money's worth!
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