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E39 (1997 - 2003)
The BMW 5-Series (E39 chassis) was introduced in the United States as a 1997 model year car and lasted until the 2004 when the E60 chassis was released. The United States saw several variations including the 525i, 528i, 530i and 540i. -- View the E39 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 06-12-2012, 11:59 AM
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16valex 16valex is offline
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High Speed Vibration when Brakes

Damn, I can't believe I start this thread, but here we go.

At high speed above 60MPH, if I hit the brake hard the whole car would shake.
Jacked the car up and all is tight. NO play in wheel bearings neither.
All front suspension components has been replaced within the last 10K miles.
I thought I may have a sticky caliper but when I check both wheels are spinning freely.

I'm going to bleed the brakes and see how this go, but first I will try the bedding procedure and see if this help.

I don't like the feeling at all, during high speed, very unsafe.
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  #2  
Old 06-12-2012, 12:04 PM
dvsgene dvsgene is offline
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Hey Alex, I presume you used Lemforder parts during replacement?

In either case, I also presume you preloaded before tightening down thrust arm bolt?

I'm sure you know how and what to check and this seems more like a "venting/ranting" post.

Perhaps your surpercharger has added too much weight to the front making it less than ideal 50/50 distribution. Time to take that thing out!


Thanks for sharing and good luck!
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  #3  
Old 06-12-2012, 12:15 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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Resurface the rotors.
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  #4  
Old 06-12-2012, 12:18 PM
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16valex 16valex is offline
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Originally Posted by cn90 View Post
Resurface the rotors.
Yeah! I might have warped rotors, but I don't think I would re-surface them.
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  #5  
Old 06-12-2012, 12:16 PM
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16valex 16valex is offline
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Ha ha! Gene you're funnier than I thought, just so you know even with the added S/C weight mine is still lighter than yours .

Yes, all parts were Loemforder and pre-load during the arms installation.
Thanks for chime in though.
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  #6  
Old 06-12-2012, 12:29 PM
dvsgene dvsgene is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 16valex View Post
Ha ha! Gene you're funnier than I thought, just so you know even with the added S/C weight mine is still lighter than yours .
It may be lighter but is it faster?

I have another solution, Keith is very good at solving vibration issues. Give him a call so you can replace everything again and again and again.
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  #7  
Old 06-12-2012, 01:27 PM
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Quote:
It may be lighter but is it faster?
Wanna know! It's gonna cost ya!

Quote:
I have another solution, Keith is very good at solving vibration issues. Give him a call so you can replace everything again and again and again.
So true, we all learned from his mistake!
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  #8  
Old 06-12-2012, 12:41 PM
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Jason5driver Jason5driver is offline
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Pad deposits on the rotors...
Try re-bedding them, BEFORE re-surfacing the rotors...
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  #9  
Old 06-12-2012, 12:57 PM
pleiades pleiades is offline
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Find a clear open place (large parking lot after business hours) and try braking firmly in reverse a few times.... (Yeah.... I just make this sh*t up....)
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  #10  
Old 06-12-2012, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by pleiades View Post
Find a clear open place (large parking lot after business hours) and try braking firmly in reverse a few times.... (Yeah.... I just make this sh*t up....)
It's cool and genuine idea, I like!
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  #11  
Old 06-12-2012, 01:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason5driver View Post
Pad deposits on the rotors...
Try re-bedding them, BEFORE re-surfacing the rotors...
I will try re-bedding them but definitely not re-surface them, it's not worth the time and labor IMO.
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  #12  
Old 06-12-2012, 02:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason5driver View Post
Pad deposits on the rotors...
Try re-bedding them, BEFORE re-surfacing the rotors...
+1, always do the easy and cheap steps first!
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  #13  
Old 06-12-2012, 02:49 PM
cn90 cn90 is offline
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- Re-bedding might have been OK when installing new pads.
If the pads are old and worn in, chances are: warped rotors.

- Even brand-new rotors may be a bit out of specs.
When you re-surface the rotors, you know it will true and straight.

- I go to my local OReilly autoparts often and they re-surface the rotors free for me.
Otherwise $10/rotor resurfacing.

Trust me, been there done that, resurface the rotors, the problem will go away.
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  #14  
Old 06-12-2012, 07:35 PM
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I had done the re-surface once before on the same car but that didn't last long maybe about 2K miles or less.

I'm going to give it a good check tomorrow.
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  #15  
Old 06-13-2012, 07:08 AM
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Update

This morning.
-Checked strut mounts nuts. Nice and tight.
-Checked front rotors. They're beautiful looking, a uniformed gray color across, no visible hot spots or glazing of any kinks.
-Checked calipers bracket housing. Nice and tight.
-Checked calipers hanger rods. Nice and tight.

Went out and performed the zeckhausen brake bedding procedure.
The vibration has cut down drastically, not as sensitive as before when as soon as I touch the brake pedal the vibration was instantly vs now it would take about an inch down before the vibration kicks in but at a 25% scale of violence.

Now I'm not sure if the bedding procedure helped flatten the high spots (which I didn't see any to begin with or felt the pulsation in the pedal) OR perhaps in the process of bedding it helped remove the air out of the brake system.

I'm more leaning toward air in the system perhaps in the ABS module which is very hard to get rid off unless you have a tool to activate the ABS module while pressure bleed the brakes.

I will try to pressure bleed the brake and see if I can get rid of the last 25% remain vibration.

What do you guys think?
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  #16  
Old 06-13-2012, 04:27 PM
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Hope you get it worked out Alex.
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  #17  
Old 06-13-2012, 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by AnotherGeezer View Post
Hope you get it worked out Alex.
It's much better and tolerable now. I think with all that bedding the air made its way out. Maybe tomorrow I have time to do a pressure bleed. If that doesn't work I will pull the JIMLEV's method to activate the ABS module....... And if the JIMLEV's doesn't work out, a brand new set of Zimmerman and Akebonos will be coming.
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  #18  
Old 06-14-2012, 08:20 AM
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John,
Thank you for your expertise and excellent information...!
Thank you!

How do plan on deleting the CCV...?
Oil Catch Can...?
Reason being, I need to replace my CCV yet again...
I am on my 3rd CCV, I really do not want to buy a 4th...

Thanks!
Jason
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  #19  
Old 06-14-2012, 09:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason5driver View Post
John,
Thank you for your expertise and excellent information...!
Thank you!

How do plan on deleting the CCV...?
Oil Catch Can...?
Reason being, I need to replace my CCV yet again...
I am on my 3rd CCV, I really do not want to buy a 4th...

Thanks!
Jason
I replaced the CVV with a catch can. I used the same can as Eparayno used:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=601440

Since I have an SC, there was no place I could find in the engine compartment where the catch can would fit without the hoses interfering with the belts, pulleys, etc. So what I did was remove the CVV and install the can in it's place. Of course, I had to make quite a few modifications to the can (some of them quite ugly) to make it fit but I didn't really care how it looked since you can't see it.

Eparayno's install is much simpler and works great according to his thread which he updates consistently.

I'm working on a post with pictures that will detail what I did with the catch can & my SC setup. It should be on Bimmerforums in a couple of days.

Thanks for your good words.
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  #20  
Old 06-14-2012, 10:56 AM
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Originally Posted by johnstern View Post
I replaced the CVV with a catch can. I used the same can as Eparayno used:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=601440

Since I have an SC, there was no place I could find in the engine compartment where the catch can would fit without the hoses interfering with the belts, pulleys, etc. So what I did was remove the CVV and install the can in it's place. Of course, I had to make quite a few modifications to the can (some of them quite ugly) to make it fit but I didn't really care how it looked since you can't see it.

Eparayno's install is much simpler and works great according to his thread which he updates consistently.

I'm working on a post with pictures that will detail what I did with the catch can & my SC setup. It should be on Bimmerforums in a couple of days.

Thanks for your good words.
Thanks!
Yes, I have most definitely seen Eparayno's Oil Catch Can thread...

I was looking for pictures of posts of your setup...
I will be waiting to see what you post/ show...!
Did you use the same check valve as he did?
And why put the oil catch can in the same horrific place as the original system....?

Thanks!
Jason
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  #21  
Old 06-14-2012, 03:00 PM
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John,
Do you know the specs of that Volvo check valve? I may have to go for an alternative instead of waiting around. I was thinking some generic PCV off the auto parts stores. I think it would work. What do you think about this?
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  #22  
Old 06-14-2012, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by 16valex View Post
John,
Do you know the specs of that Volvo check valve? I may have to go for an alternative instead of waiting around. I was thinking some generic PCV off the auto parts stores. I think it would work. What do you think about this?
Alex, I tried a PCV from Napa with a 3/8" ID but when I blew into it, it leaked-no good. Maybe another brand or type of PCV would work but I really don't know.

The same check valve is also used by Mercedes-part #000 431 36 07. When I looked into that, the price was ridiculous. This part also fit some Jaguars.

Anyway I know waiting is a pain but I think it is worth it. If you google as "Volvo part number 1228272", you will get an amazing number of companies that carry this part. FCP Euro is in Connecticut and the web site says they have it in stock for $10.92.

You could do the mod without the check valve. Put a 3/8 hose mender in the check valve's place and test out your brakes-you'll lose some boost but it's only temporary. Then when the check valve arrives you'll be all set.
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  #23  
Old 06-14-2012, 06:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason5driver View Post
Thanks!
Yes, I have most definitely seen Eparayno's Oil Catch Can thread...

I was looking for pictures of posts of your setup...
I will be waiting to see what you post/ show...!
Did you use the same check valve as he did?
And why put the oil catch can in the same horrific place as the original system....?

Thanks!
Jason
Jason,

Since my car has a SC, my application is different from Eparayno's. The SC install capped of the distribution piece thereby removing the vacuum source from the CVV. They did that so the boost would not get into the CVV. A check valve preventing boost from getting to the CVV would totally screws things up too, if, for instance, you were on a long interstate trip with the car constantly on boost. In my research I called Dinan and spoke with one of the guys in their shop. He told me that he could sell me a special Dinan designed valve with hoses that would allow the CVV to work but the price was somewhere in the $600 to $700 range, or I could use a $100 catch can. I chose the catch can!!!

I located it under the intake manifold because no matter where else I chose to put the can, the hoses to and from the can would get into the belts/pulleys of the SC. No good. Because of the can's location, I ran a hose from the can's drain to the dip stick tube so the oil would run back into the sump. I just checked that drain out & it was working perfectly. I put a PCV valve in that drain line so no oil could be sucked out of the sump back into the can.

I'll post pictures and more detail in a few days.
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  #24  
Old 06-14-2012, 06:50 PM
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Quote:
Anyway I know waiting is a pain but I think it is worth it. If you google as "Volvo part number 1228272", you will get an amazing number of companies that carry this part. FCP Euro is in Connecticut and the web site says they have it in stock for $10.92.
Thanks John, I may go with them since they are closer.

Quote:
You could do the mod without the check valve. Put a 3/8 hose mender in the check valve's place and test out your brakes-you'll lose some boost but it's only temporary. Then when the check valve arrives you'll be all set.
I was thinking the same. I will try to find a PCV that has the 3/8 inlet and outlet. I didn't have any luck today finding the same 3/8" inlet/outlet OD.

I'm still un-decide to whether or not I should remove the S/C intake to drill and tap a hole. I don't like it at all, but on the hand some plastic chip may fall into the throttle body. Decision, decision, decision!
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  #25  
Old 06-15-2012, 07:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnstern View Post
Jason,

Since my car has a SC, my application is different from Eparayno's. The SC install capped of the distribution piece thereby removing the vacuum source from the CVV. They did that so the boost would not get into the CVV. A check valve preventing boost from getting to the CVV would totally screws things up too, if, for instance, you were on a long interstate trip with the car constantly on boost. In my research I called Dinan and spoke with one of the guys in their shop. He told me that he could sell me a special Dinan designed valve with hoses that would allow the CVV to work but the price was somewhere in the $600 to $700 range, or I could use a $100 catch can. I chose the catch can!!!

I located it under the intake manifold because no matter where else I chose to put the can, the hoses to and from the can would get into the belts/pulleys of the SC. No good. Because of the can's location, I ran a hose from the can's drain to the dip stick tube so the oil would run back into the sump. I just checked that drain out & it was working perfectly. I put a PCV valve in that drain line so no oil could be sucked out of the sump back into the can.

I'll post pictures and more detail in a few days.

That's very interesting...!
So, your Intake Manifold is completely plugged/ nothing going into it...?
Outstanding...!

I am anxious to see what it looks like, and to see the info. on it...!

Thank you Sir!

Jason
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