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E90/E91/E92/E93 (2006 - 2013)
The E9X is the latest evolution of the BMW 3 series including a highly tuned twin turbo 335i variant pushing out 300hp and 300 ft. lbs. of torque. BMW continues to show that it sets the bar for true driving performance! -- View the E9X Wiki |
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#1
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what make/model tires do you guys use for winter?
This is my first winter with a Bimmer. I've been checking out the differences between performace winter tires and studless snow/winter tires.
i know Bridgestone blizzaks LM-60 or WS60 are popular but Ive also wondered if the new Michelin pilot PA4 are worth the extra $$$ ($250 for 4) I am expecting cold temps for 4 months and snow/ice for one week/year average. What do you guys use for the winter...??? |
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#2
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dunlop wintersport 3ds.
the blizzak WS series will be squishy on dry roads compared to the LM. |
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#3
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The last 4 winters: Dunlop Wintersport M3 DSSTs and Wintersport 3D (goflat).
This winter: Pirelli Sottozero Series II 240.
__________________
Don't resent growing old. Many are denied the privilege. -- Irish Proverb |
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#4
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from what you describe (1 week or so of snow and ice, and the rest cold) i would go with a performance snow.
two of the top contenders are the bridgestone lm60 and the dunlop wintersport 3D. the lm60 will be biased to snow performance (its the same tread pattern as the ws60, just without the tube multicell) the 3d would be biased toward dry and wet road performance. Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Bimmer App |
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#5
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I use Blizzak WS series. I deal with the squish on the dry to get the go in the snow. YMMV.
I do agree with Orient that VA would seem to indicate a performance snow rather than a snow/ice tire.
__________________
2009 335i xDrive coupe, Jet Black, Black Leather, Grey Poplar, Steptronic, ZPP, ZSP, ZCW, iPod/USB, HD radio, Parking Assist. Rear Fogs, Hardwire V1, ProFit G3. ED May 12, 2009, Munich dropoff May 16, Redelivery June 22, 2009 Prior 33 years of cars: 1967 BelAir wagon / 1968 LeMans Tempest / 1970 Mustang Mach 1 / 1972 El Dorado / 1978 Corvette (kept until first Bronco) / 1981 Subaru GL wagon AWD / 1983 s10 Blazer 4x4 (big mistake) / 1985 Bronco 4x4 / 1996 Bronco 4x4 / 2004 Passat 4motion |
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#6
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I have a staggered set up on my Summer's at the moment but there are very few winter tires including the BS LM60s and the 3Ds that have both 225/40 for the front and 255/35 for the back. Since the rear rim is only 0.5 Inch wider and will accept a 225/40 should i change to a sqaure set of 225/40 all round?
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#7
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Quote:
runflat mount and balances run about 120-140, twice a year. plus you wont subject your factory rims/tires to mount dismount damage, potholes, and sand/salt |
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#9
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I'm getting new tires as well this month, but I was planning on going with just Continental DWS's, and swapping my current Conti SSR RF's with them. OEM wheels as well. I figure I'll probably sell the car before I swap to new tires...
__________________
2006 330xi | 6AT | Navi | Premium | Cold Weather |
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#10
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I'm pretty sure Im going to use the OEM rims and swap the tires. My reasoning is that i am moving to non-run flats for the winter and also next summer season. So i am spending money on a donut. I just dont have all the money in the world to buy new tires, rims just or winter and a $350 donut. Maybe when i have saved some extra i can take the next step and get some dedicated winter rims. So is it fine to go with thinner tires on the back for winter, i heard this may even be beneficial in slick conditions?
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#11
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Quote:
__________________
2006 330xi | 6AT | Navi | Premium | Cold Weather |
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#12
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__________________
2009 335i xDrive coupe, Jet Black, Black Leather, Grey Poplar, Steptronic, ZPP, ZSP, ZCW, iPod/USB, HD radio, Parking Assist. Rear Fogs, Hardwire V1, ProFit G3. ED May 12, 2009, Munich dropoff May 16, Redelivery June 22, 2009 Prior 33 years of cars: 1967 BelAir wagon / 1968 LeMans Tempest / 1970 Mustang Mach 1 / 1972 El Dorado / 1978 Corvette (kept until first Bronco) / 1981 Subaru GL wagon AWD / 1983 s10 Blazer 4x4 (big mistake) / 1985 Bronco 4x4 / 1996 Bronco 4x4 / 2004 Passat 4motion |
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#13
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The cost of mounting and balancing will surely not be higher than a whole new set of rims over 5 years? Ive seen places that do it for $15 per wheel. which is $120 per year. Which is about even against a set of cheap rims over period of 5ish years. Since my rims are 7 years old they are not quite in the same condition as brand new ones even though i take good care of them. So Im not too concerened about possible damage to them with moutning and remounting. In an ideal world yes i would but new rims but i just dont have the money for that right now. I need to keep some back for the inevitable cooling system failure now im at 83K miles :-)
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#14
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A fast run on TireRack: 4 LM-60 tires in 225/40-R18 = $808 + $60 mount/balance at cheap place = $868 4 LM-60 tires in 225/45-R17 mounted and balanced on inexpensive rims (no TPMS) = $1132. Difference = $264. You would be ahead of the game after the second year. And a $264 savings this year doesn't seem big enough to fix the cooling system.
__________________
2009 335i xDrive coupe, Jet Black, Black Leather, Grey Poplar, Steptronic, ZPP, ZSP, ZCW, iPod/USB, HD radio, Parking Assist. Rear Fogs, Hardwire V1, ProFit G3. ED May 12, 2009, Munich dropoff May 16, Redelivery June 22, 2009 Prior 33 years of cars: 1967 BelAir wagon / 1968 LeMans Tempest / 1970 Mustang Mach 1 / 1972 El Dorado / 1978 Corvette (kept until first Bronco) / 1981 Subaru GL wagon AWD / 1983 s10 Blazer 4x4 (big mistake) / 1985 Bronco 4x4 / 1996 Bronco 4x4 / 2004 Passat 4motion Last edited by Zooks527; 10-05-2012 at 11:52 AM. |
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#15
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Quote:
you also run the risk of bead damage with the repeated mounts and dismounts. and also tire sensor damage. i dont know that i would trust a $15 dollar mount and balance vs a hunter touchless mount/dismount and a roadforce balance. but if you're on a budget... i can almost guarentee you you'll come away with rim damage-- the proper equipment is expensive, a hunter gsp 9700 and a proper touchless tire changing machine. if you're comfortable with that, then go for it, but in the long run, its a wash financially.
__________________
Past: 2001 330i ZSP/ZPP/Step Past: 2004 S60R 6MT Sport Past: 2007 335i 6MT ZSP/ZCW/322/655 Past: 2010 335xi ZMP/ZCW/ZPP/PPK/PE Present: 2013 335i 6MT ZMM/ZDH/ZTP/3AG/494/508 Current Homeland Threat Level: Last edited by Orient330iNYC; 10-05-2012 at 11:23 AM. |
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#16
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...and there i was thinking "oh yeah, i'll just throw a couple winters on to see me through"! so much to think about!
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#17
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then reality sunk in
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#18
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If you're on all seasons already don't bother with performance snows.
__________________
"When you were born, you cried and the world rejoiced. Live your life so that when you die, the world cries and you rejoice." - Cherokee Expression |
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#19
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Im on Micheline Pilots that are very worn and need to be changed regardless.... Thought about all seasons but i figured that a set of winters will last me through until i sell the car X years down the road and will probabaly just about break even of 2x all season replacements vs 1xset of summer tires adn 1x set of winters. leaving me with the performance benefits of both.
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#20
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#21
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He's very happy with them. He just tries to minimize on-road-time when it's snowing.
__________________
Don't resent growing old. Many are denied the privilege. -- Irish Proverb |
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#22
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Snows are awful to drive except in the snow, they feel squishy and squirmy on dry roads and have weak grip on wet roads. Unless you are really likely to get snow, there is NO performance benefit from them other than on the one or two days all winter when you may be forced to drive in the snow.
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#23
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#24
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Conti DWS. Few snow events in MD/VA.
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#25
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Dunlops winter runfflats (3D?)
Sent from my GT-N7000 using Bimmer App
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09 |
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