How do we loosen tension on a BMW E39 front window regulator anyway?

EDIT: MatWiz helped us focus on the spring in order to come up with a nearly effortless technique (see post #25, patent pending) which easily loosens & tightens the tremendous cable tension notch by notch.
This almost effortless tensioning method is not documented anywhere else on the Internet to our knowledge!

What is the trick to loosening the tension on a BMW E39 front door window regulator where the cable has jumped off the wheel?

If it's obvious how ... I don't see it.

Here is my 'bench' test apparatus:


And, here is the problem:


Q: What's the procedure for loosening the cable tension to get it back on the last roller?

NOTE:
1) This was the original bmw 2002 525i E39 front driver side window regulator repair DIY
2) This was an update that added the window regulator a year later
3) This is yet another update that attempts to detension the window regulator

this job is super hard... I ended up cutting the rubber spring that work as a cable limiter/holder when goes in to the center loop, but this just to get reassemble the whole thing. I haven't tried to test it so I have no idea whether it works or not

I would like to know how too.. otherwise we all have just stick to "Just buy OEM part, dont fix it or buy aftermarket ones"

BB: I haven't done this repair so this is pure speculation:

In your first picture, there looks to be a spring on the cable assembly (near the motor?). If you compress the spring, does that introduce slack into the cable system?

In your second picture, it looks like the wheel has a broken section of the flange at the 7-8 o'clock position. Did the cable jump the wheel during operation? If yes, that broken flange may be why. It may need to be replaced or this could happen again.

I don't know how this applies to the front regulator, but I just had it happen to my rear one. I tried placing the cable back on the wheel, but it just seemed impossible. I opened up the motor where the cable goes in/out and saw that there was some additional slack of the cable caught looped inside, which also prevented the motor from moving either direction. After fixing that and assembling back the motor it still seemed like I need to apply a lot of force to get the cable back on tracks. What I ended up doing is removing one of the cable ends from the slot it sits in next to the motor (where the cable spring is), which created enough slack in the cable to loop it around all pulleys, and then wrestle the cable end back into the slot and it worked. What surprised me is how much tension the system rests/operates under and with all plastic pulleys and steel cable...

BB, sounds like your motor is moving fine, so in your case you probably don't need to take the motor apart. But if you do, pay attention to how the cable sits inside, it's a bit tricky getting it back on the internal pulley.

Originally Posted by radd

I would like to know how too.. otherwise we all have just stick to "Just buy OEM part, dont fix it or buy aftermarket ones"

I don't see anything wrong with the regulator so I'd rather figure out how to release tension.

Plus, I've googled and I don't (yet) see any other threads showing a stop-by-step way to release the tension ... so ... if we, together, come up with a good idea, the resultant DIY will benefit those who follow.

Originally Posted by Fudman

If you compress the spring, does that introduce slack into the cable system?

Let's make mechanical spring compression "Plan A".

I'll check and report back.

Originally Posted by Fudman

the wheel has a broken section of the flange

The wheel is chipped, but, I don't think that's why the cable slipped off the pulleys because the tension is astronomical, which should keep the cable on the pulley (I think). Of course, if the wheel truly 'is' the problem, the regulator is toast, and the solution morphs to a simpler solution because I can experiment with releasing tension without being worried about further damage to the regulator.

So, even with a chipped wheel, the problem still remains ... which is to figure out how to cleverly release tension.

Originally Posted by Flug540

What I ended up doing is removing one of the cable ends from the slot it sits in next to the motor (where the cable spring is), which created enough slack

I've seen Matwiz' DIY showing the coiled insides of the motor so, I understand what you're saying (where is the wiz when you need him!).

I assume disassembling the motor is "Plan B".

Originally Posted by Flug540

it's a bit tricky getting it back on the internal pulley.

Looking closer at the motor, I see this 'purposeful' plug.

I wonder ... Do you think 'this' can be used as 'Plan C" to loosen tension somehow?

Oh no, you did not heed my warning about how hard it is to re-assemble in your original post! But wait, did the cable just come off while in operation?

I wanted to mention in you original post that the chip might be the end of the regulator unless you replace the roller which is why I suggest a call to RegulatorUSA.

Did you call the regulator guy in Brooklyn to see if he sells just the rollers he uses?

I think the cable will still jump off the roller if the chip is not fixed. Reason being, the cable is under great tension as you found out. The cable itself has a tendency to want to recoil naturally so as the cable moves around the roller, the cable twists, as it twists, it will jump off the roller. Remember, the cable is nothing more than twisted steel wire and twisted steel has the tendency to twist in the direction of the winds.

Originally Posted by dvsgene

did the cable just come off while in operation?

The cable came off in testing - but I don't think it was due to the chipped roller; I think it was because I had not tightened everything - and/or because the window was out of adjustment, as there is not a well defined procedure (despite the Bentleys, which are worse than confusing) for adequate adjustment of the stops.

BTW, I pulled out the square plastic bolt - but it doesn't seem to be of any benefit in loosening the tension. All it does is plug the hole, perhaps so that we can add grease to the motor helical gear.


At some point (I don't know when), the smaller springed tube fell out of its slot in the motor housing.


In hindsight, here is how that tube 'should' have been reassembled:


Another mistake I made (of many) was to not realize that this ribbed black plastic spring-tension adjuster might be a critical component in loosening cable tension!

I should at least have marked the initial location of the black plastic large spring stop, so that I would know how much to push it back into the motor when I put it back.
Here is that black plastic ribbed spring stop, almost pulled out:


I spent some time trying to figure out how that larger black plastic stop goes into the motor - and finally concluded it's a press fit - which takes a LOT of force to fit inward - and which is mighty hard to perform with that heavy spring in place (more about how to conquer that all-important heavy spring comes later).


Boing!

While I was examining the motor for how to release tension, curiosity got the better of me.

This gear is what spins the coils of cable.

Notice each coil is wrapped around the takeup spool twice, in opposite directions.
The large spring cable is coming in from the left; the smaller spring cable comes in from the right.

Within seconds of snapping that photo for you, as I put the camera down, that nice arrangement of cable coils literally unwound in my hands.

Leaving me with an unsprung front window regulator takeup spool.


After all this - I belatedly realized (what might be) the trick to reduce tension on the front window regulator!
Look at this picture below.

Notice you can easily unhook the heavy coil spring from the cable, and hook it back up easily after the fact, simply by unwrapping it from the wire as you would unhook a key from a common keychain.

I'm guessing this spring unwrapping can be performed without disassembling anything!

If so, that's the trick to releasing tension (WITHOUT DISASSEMBLING ANYTHING!)

It's too late for me to try this trick - but - if I had known that I could simply unwrap the heavy coil spring, I would have tried that, instead of ending up with motor parts all over the place.

I practiced removing the spring off the cable a few times.
Of course, strong tension is gone - but, I proved to myself the concept of removing the spring without disassembling anything is sound; so, here's my proposal (for the next person) of the trick to loosen cable tension without disassembling anything else:

To loosen cable tension, this may be the best potentially viable approach:

1. Measure the current location of the black ribbed plastic large-spring stopper
2. Push the black ribbed plastic large-cable stopper in all the way
   • That, in and of itself, may provide enough tension relief
3. If not, first, you may have to pull the black ribbed plastic large-spring stopper out an additional inch or so
4. Then, unwind the large spring off the cable (like pulling a key off a keychain)
5. When it's time to replace the spring, wind it back on (like putting a key on a keychain)

Had I known that potential trick of unscrewing the large spring, my regulator would never have been taken apart ... but ... I guess someone has to take the hit so that the next person has an easier time of it.

The good news is I now know more about this window regulator than I ever wanted to know - and I certainly have learned a host of things NOT to do!

The bad news is that it would take a minor miracle to get it all back together again.


Things not to do:

• In hindsight, I wish I had marked the location of both window clamps to the guide rails because they probably need to be symmetric on the rail cable guides when I restring the cable.
• Also, I wish I had marked the amount of cable wound inside the spool because that is probably a critical dimension (I should have put a dab of nail polish on the two cables at some strategic point)
• I wish I had marked the original length the black ribbed plastic large spring stop stuck out of the motor (as it can move at least an few inches either way).

I'll ask MatWiz for advice how to proceed ... he (Dan) seems to be the only one who documented the motor disassembly (but he stopped half way when his camera battery died):
-> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Front Window Regulator - Re-Assembly Instructions.

Another mistake I made (of many) was to not realize that this ribbed black plastic spring-tension adjuster might be a critical component in loosening cable tension!

You are right. It IS critical to loosening and tensioning!

I should at least have marked the initial location of the black plastic large spring stop, so that I would know how much to push it back into the motor when I put it back.
Here is that black plastic ribbed spring stop, almost pulled out:

No need to do this, that thing is self adjusting, self tensioning!

OK, this was 5 years and 2 months ago, so I might not remember everything I did so this is to my best recollections. (Damn camera battery!).

IIRC, the black rigged piece works counter intuitive. The spring pushes it out. When the spring pushes out, the tension increases on the cable.

Also, the black piece works like a ratchet. Once it is pushed out one ridge by the spring, you can not push it back in. Or is it the other way around? I don't remember which way the ratchet works, but I do remember that it is a ratchet.

So the trick was to hold the spring compressed as much as I could, then put everything in its place, and then release it to create the tension. The tension is not adjustable, the spring creates the tension and there is nothing you can do.

I hold the spring compressed so that I have some play with the cable, so that I could put all the parts and the cable in its place, I used a kitchen fork. Stick the fork in the spring and push it against the metal housing. I had to bend one of the middle fingers of the fork to allow it to go around the black piece.

To my best recollection, I put the cable around the rollers, then compressed the spring, and only then pushed the spiral wheel into its housing.

^^^ I don't like how the cable is bent over there. Something or someone installed that incorrectly or maybe it got dislocated. But look at my picture, they are completely strait:


So when you wrap the cable ends around the spiral, make sure you insert them flush in their grooves.


Another tip, the plastic housing kept jumping out of the metal housing when I tried to put everything together. I finally figured to tie it down with these strips until it was assembled. Then I removed them after.

Turn the wheel with the two ends wrapped to have about the same wraps of each side on the wheel (about two from each side?). Then insert the wheel and press to lock it in. Done. Now place the cable on the rollers if they are not already on them, and insert the spring. Finished.

Originally Posted by MatWiz

wrap the cable all the way to the end of the wheel

This is a GREAT idea ... which ... I only belatedly saw just now as I was retiring for the evening. In effect, it looks like there are three ways to wrap the cable in order to take into account the cable twist from the three counterclockwise wraps on the take-up spool.

1. Wrap, as you mentioned, the larger-springed cable end six wraps counterclockwise onto the bottom half of the take up spool (taking up all six grooves of the takeup spool) ... then ... wrap the smaller-springed end into the top three grooves of the take up spool
2. Twist the larger-springed end clockwise three turns, and then wrap three counterclockwise loops on the bottom of the takeup spool; likweise, twist the smaller-springed end clockwise three times and wrap three counterclockwise loops on the top of the take up spool
3. Wrap the larger-springed end three loops on the bottom of the takeup spool; then allow the entire remaining regulator cable to spin freely in the air to compensate for the twisting; then twist the remaining end three times clockwise and then wrap it around the top end of the takeup spool.

The approach I took today was #3 above - but I like your approach #1 above because it requires no difficult twisting (especially since my cable end had frayed a bit, it was biting into my skin as I attempted to twist the cable ends).

Note: This spool only has 5 wraps - but it actually requires six tight wraps (yet another lesson learned, the hard way).



EDIT:
BTW, this video shows even the pros have problems winding up the spring. It's easy, but, it's all technique. Wrong technique - and it's not so easy anymore. An extra set of hands would help.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=2Pe3cpYCfC0

Note: This video shows a DIFFERENT way to retension a cable regulator:

Originally Posted by MatWiz

Turn the wheel with the two ends wrapped to have about the same wraps of each side on the wheel (about two from each side?)

I wish when I had first taken the spool apart that I had counted the wraps - but I tried today with just two wraps on each side - and it was too loose, so it's three wraps on each side.

Originally Posted by MatWiz

Now place the cable on the rollers if they are not already on them, and insert the spring. Finished.

Inserting the spring is actually easy - if you approach it from the right angle - and very difficult if you don't.

For example, today I tried to wrap the spring back on by first wrapping it around the cable outside the black post - but that turned out to be folly:

Then, I belatedly realized the right way to approach the spring wrap is to come in at a slight angle and wrap around the black post, turning the spring clockwise to wind it on.


Unfortunately, I wound and unwound that spring so many times today that I ended up damaging it a bit.

Bad news. Today I tried another three or four times to repair the regulator. I have the wrapping and stringing down to a science, so that's not the problem.

And, I put the window clamps on the rails BEFORE mounting it in the door (which was a lesson learned).

But, still, after about five or so test traversals of the window, the wire came off the top left roller (i.e., the one that was chipped).

Given that, I'm finally convinced (by the data) that my regulator is toast - mostly due to the chip in the wheel that occurred when the regulator jammed prior to removal.

I will search for regulator suppliers ... so ... if you have experience with particular brands and suppliers ... please let me know.

- Supplier prices lookup comparison engine (1) & BMW salvage (junkyard) parts lookup engine (1) & BMWfans search by part number (bmwfans.info parts catalog) & Realoem nominal prices by part number (1) & EACTuning actual prices by part number (1) & BMW of South Atlanta actual prices by part number (1) & Maxmillian BMW dealer prices by part number (1) & the most often recommended parts suppliers (1) & what BMW E39 parts & supplies are best to buy OEM (1) & joining BMWCCA to lower parts costs (1) (2) & what parts to always get OEM (1) which BMW dealers match prices (1) & in situ pictures of common parts of the M54 engine (1)

EDIT: Seems like the following brands are available:

• OE 51 33 8 252 393 (Kuster is the original brand name on mine) 51338252393
• A1 Cardone 82-2134A
• Action Crash 1032-04050415
• Dorman #: 740-478 or #740478
• Hollander #: 125-58598L
• JL Germany (Bavauto seems to sell this)
• Partslink #: BM1350103
• Replacement B462922 (The Parts Bin & DriveWire & auto parts warehouse seem to sell this)
• Üro Parts 51338252393 (BMA, AutoHauzAZ, Amazon, seem to sell this)
• VDO/Siemens (Amazon seems to sell this)
• World Source One W0133-1601605
• ? what others ?

Note: The driver-side front regulator seems to go by two different part numbers: OLD: 51338236859 NEW: 51338252393
Note: Part #51338252393 is for the front left, driver side; while part #51338252394 is for the front right, passenger side.
Note: E39 models built before 9/1997 apparently used a slightly different mounting method than later models do (mine is a 2002).

• Regulator: 51338252393 $166.16 ELECTR. WINDOW LIFTER FRONT LEFT
  • Replacement
    • $56.71 P/N:B462922 Drive Wire ($70.26 with shipping, CA tax, and handling)
    • $56.71 The Parts Bin (add $71.0 shipping + $1.70 handling + $4.75 tax = $70.26)
    • $56.71 Car Parts Wholesale ($70.29 with shipping & tax)
    • $66.79 JC Whitney SKU #: 1JA 1040278 Mfr #: B462922 ($84.49 shipped & taxed to California)
      
    • $65.51 B462922 auto parts warehouse (free shipping)
    • $65.78 B462922 Car-Stuff
    • $89.23 Parts Geek 1032-06012741
  • Action Crash
    • $56.23 Parts Geek 1032-04050415
    • $59.15 The Auto Parts Shop
    • $66.79 B462922 stylintrucks
  • A1Cardone
    • $62.10 Parts Geek 1032-07127794
  • ÜRO PARTS #51338252393
    • $68.00 BMA auto parts
    • $86.33 AutoHauzAZ
    • $89.70 ECS Tuning ES#:2534300
    • $89.79 Rock Auto 51338252393
    • $92.43 Amazon
    • $96.50 OemBimmerparts
  • VDO/Siemens
    • $89.81 Amazon
    • $99.95 fcpgroton
  • Dorman #740478
    • $83.10 Parts Geek 1032-07085789
    • $84.79 Rock Auto #51338252393
    • $89.43 Amazon
  • JL
    • $89.95 Bavauto 51681
  • World Source One
    • $89.10 Parts Geek W0133-1601605
    • $89.60 Auto Parts Way WSO1601605
    • $108.95 Auto Parts Warehouse W0133-1601605
    • $108.95 The Parts Bin
    • $108.95 Car-Stuff
  • OE
    • $130.20 BMA
    • $144.10 Parts Geek W0133-1601605
    • $146.95 Turner Motorsport
    • $146.95 Parts Bin
    • $146.95 W0133-1601605 Car-Stuff
    • $148.95 Bimmerzone
    • $149.00 OemBimmerParts
    • $154.13 ECS Tuning ES#:94495
    • $154.98 AutoHauzAZ
    • $169.99 FCPEuro
    • $170.88 Maxmillian
    • $172.95 BavAuto)
    • $193.09 BMW of South Atlanta
  • Unknown brand (all new parts)
    • $43.75 Ebay
    • $47.50 Dependable Autoparts (+$12 flat rate UPS from Fort Washington, PA)
    • $56.71 Discount Body Parts
    • $69.95 NA AutoParts 5133 8 252 393
    • $71.79 Rock Auto BM1350103
    • $86.95 Ebay (am-autoparts (702291)
    • $88.95 1A Auto
    • $154.47 mileoneparts
• Motor: 67628360511 $147.05 Electr. drive, left front and right rear
  • Replacement
    • $34.22 P/N: REPB468712, Drive Wire & The Parts Bin
    • $34.22 JC Whitney SKU #: 1JA REPB468711 Mfr #: REPB468711
  • A1 Cardone
    • $42.19 Car Parts Wholesale PART#: A1472134 MFR#: 47-2134
  • World Source One
    • $68.22 ECS #:2226068
  • Dorman
    • $92.15 Amazon
  • OEM
    • $154.20 ECS #184423
    • $170 Amazon
  • Unknown
    • $166.95 BavAuto
    • $149.10 Mileoneparts
• Regulator and motor
  
  • $75.00 (used) Ebay
  • $110.00 (used) Ebay
  • $127.95 The Parts Bin, P/N:B462928
  • $127.95 JC Whitney SKU #: 1JA 1041570 Mfr #: B462928 Replaces OE Number: 51338252393 Replaces Partslink Number: BM1350103
  • $232.67 My local San Jose BMW Stealer: 800-486-2171
    • Note: Nobody is ever higher than this San Jose stealer so that's always the upper end for all parts
• 51338257721 $1.03 Edge protection, 51338257721 $1.03 (the rubber feet)

Note: It's interesting that Turner Motorsports has multiple items of the exact same price & brand as "The Parts Bin" (URL not provided as it is asterisked out when I type it as a single word).

Note: Here is a typical supplier's picture of the OEM brand (Kuster).

• Notice I flipped all the pictures so as to always show the true orientation (most suppliers show it upside down)
• Notice the white plastic take-up spool assembly is tie wrapped to the metal motor plate so I presume we need to re-use both the old motor and the five screws which held the old take-up-spool mechanism to the metal motor plate
• We probably need to re-use the three T25 bolts at top which don't show in this picture
• The two bottom 10mm bolts seem to come with the window regulator
• The two window clamps seem to come with the regulator (each clamp has a T25 bolt, rubber "edge protector", T20 bolt, and the plastic window stop)
• The regulator appears to come with the T20 bolt and clip at the center (which clips the bottom portion of the motor plate to the door)
• The small rubber stopper on the motor plate seems to come with the regulator (this is a separate part number in realoem diagrams)

Isn't there someone who sells (sold?) rollers replacements?

Just did this to one of mine yesterday; So here goes. Remove the motor, remove the nearest sided cable from the spool. Lace everything up. Wind the remaining (Lower cable) on to the spool watching that it lays into the grooves naturally. As it gets near the end I used Needle nose Pliers tips in the indentations as a handle to wind the spool counterclockwise which compresses the springs just in time to allow you to drop the cable end into its hole and lay the cable in the slot. Release it and wind it a turn clockwise and the sprins take the slack up.
Now I did this with the sliders removed ( also really easy to unhook them) and with the cables outside the retaining fingers. Replace the motor and use that black piece to remove slack. (Mine are aftermarket so have to manually advance a ball retainer toward the gearbox/Spool/ Motor once installed.

Originally Posted by Flightmedic

Just did this to one of mine yesterday; So here goes. Remove the motor, remove the nearest sided cable from the spool. Lace everything up. Wind the remaining (Lower cable) on to the spool watching that it lays into the grooves naturally. As it gets near the end I used Needle nose Pliers tips in the indentations as a handle to wind the spool counterclockwise which compresses the springs just in time to allow you to drop the cable end into its hole and lay the cable in the slot. Release it and wind it a turn clockwise and the sprins take the slack up.
Now I did this with the sliders removed ( also really easy to unhook them) and with the cables outside the retaining fingers. Replace the motor and use that black piece to remove slack. (Mine are aftermarket so have to manually advance a ball retainer toward the gearbox/Spool/ Motor once installed.

This quote above explains perhaps a better process than what I used to get the cables back onto the rollers once they fall off.

As always to help others, I made my best attempt to organize the instructions above, by rewriting them below, keeping as much of the original instructions as possible.

If you can kindly clarify where there are still open questions - that would help the next person who has a need to loosen cable tension enough to get the cables back onto the four rollers.

0. With the sliders (window clamps) removed and with the cables outside the retaining fingers (i.e., with the red plastic tube ends pulled away from their steel slots) ...
1. Remove the window regulator motor (by unscrewing the five T20 screws and flip the entire window regulator apparatus so that the spool side is facing upward)
2. Remove the nearest sided cable from the spool (this is the cable end that is closest to you on the top of the spool - which is the cable end with the smaller spring)
3. Lace everything up (this probably means you lace the cables onto the four white nylon wheels - but you probably don't put the red plastic tophats at the cable jacket ends back into the steel fingered slots just yet?)
4. Wind the remaining (lower cable) on to the spool watching that it lies in the grooves naturally (this would be the cable end which has the larger spring)
5. As it (the spool winding process) gets near the end, put the tips of needlenose pliers in the indentations (of the spool) as a handle to (continue to) wind the spool counterclockwise which compresses the springs (just enough) to allow you to drop the cable end into its hole and lay the cable in the slot. (I think you're saying to lay the red plastic tophats at the cable jacket ends into the steel fingers as the last step)
6. Release it (I'm not sure what exactly is being released in this step?)
7. And wind it (the spool) a turn clockwise (presumably with the needlenose pliers still in place) and the springs take the slack up.
8. Replace the motor
9. And use that black piece to remove slack (by pulling the ratcheted stopper outward as far as it will go so that the cable is tensioned as tightly as you can get it)
10. Mine are aftermarket so have to manually advance a ball retainer toward the gearbox/Spool/ Motor once installed (I'm not quite sure what that sentence means.)

This seems like a well formed procedure for restringing cables which have fallen off their rollers, so a clarification will be useful to the next person who needs this capability.

Hello. I am relatively new to this and am not sure how to respond to or on the actual forum "string". I hope this does not inconvenience you.
My tale of woe: 2002 525i, manual. The cable jumps off the wheel in upper left hand corner of the door (by the door handle). I tried repeatedly to snap it back on, no luck. Then took the whole thing out. Found the postings by the two of you where you figured out that the tension on the cable could be released by "unscrewing" the spring around the black ribbed tensioner. I followed along and was having success until I tried to "push" the ribbed tensioner back in (to release the cable so I could wind it into place) by pounding on it. Of course, with my luck, the black ribbed tensioner cracked in half! Do you (or anyone else on this forum) know whether I can get a replacement part -- just the black ribbed part, not the entire regulator)??? I see from that post that one can get the cable, or the wheels separately, but not the tensioner itself. Am I going to end up having to replace the entire thing?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Tony.

Originally Posted by ez2456

Do you (or anyone else on this forum) know whether I can get a replacement part -- just the black ribbed part, not the entire regulator)?

I gave up looking for replacement parts and bought the entire regulator (sans motor) for $47.50 from Dependable Autoparts' web site in Pennsylvania (plus shipping).

Thanks. I think that is the only way to go now.

Help! Bought the new regulator. Swapping the motor was a snap, and I was really proud/happy when I reinstalled the entire system without any problems. And then . .. . . . tested it before even putting the glass back on, and it seemed to work beautifully. So I reassembled just about everything: placed glass in the appropriate "jaws" which were at the very bottom of the door, tightened them in, and hit the window button. Window went up nicely until about half way up, when it suddenly slowed considerably; it seemed to labor going up any further. Long story short, it is now up, with about two inches left to go for a full close, but it will not move either up or down. I can hear the motor wanting to work, but nothing happens. Is there a trick to this? Some adjustment that no one has disclosed yet? Some magical spot at which the window glass needs to be installed for the entire system to work? Assuming I can now get the glass out again (may be very hard since it is difficult to reach the Jaw, how does this system get "tuned??"
Thanks.

Originally Posted by ez2456

how does this system get "tuned??"

Nobody answered when I asked the same question recently:
- Do we have a step-by-step DIY for ADJUSTING window glass when replacing the regulator?

For the record, the exact question I asked (still unanswered) was opened today:
> E39 (1997 - 2003) > Purpose of wire connector