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E90/E91/E92/E93 (2006 - 2013)
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  #1  
Old 11-14-2012, 08:46 AM
mkonkolowicz mkonkolowicz is offline
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Mein Auto: 2008 BMW 328xi Coupe
Winter Wheel Change-Over

Hey Guys,

I'm planning to swap my wheels (summer 18s ) for the winter (winter tire equipped 17s) on my 2008 328xi coupe this weekend. I've changed wheels many times before (specifically on my old 2008 civic coupe), but just wondering if there's anything BMW specific that I should watch out for when doing this?

Thanks in advance,
Maciek
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  #2  
Old 11-14-2012, 08:56 AM
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tturedraider tturedraider is offline
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It's pretty standard. BMWs have lug bolts, not lug nuts. So, when you remove them there are no bolts supporting the wheels. There is a small lip on the hub that will keep the wheel from just dropping off. Putting the wheels on is slightly more challenging, because you have to get the holes lined up accurately.
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  #3  
Old 11-14-2012, 10:02 AM
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floydarogers floydarogers is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mkonkolowicz View Post
I'm planning to swap my wheels (summer 18s ) for the winter (winter tire equipped 17s) on my 2008 328xi coupe this weekend. I've changed wheels many times before (specifically on my old 2008 civic coupe), but just wondering if there's anything BMW specific that I should watch out for when doing this?
Be sure to use anti-seize compound on the lug bolts AND the hub, otherwise you won't get the bolts out easily, and corrosion can cause the wheel to lock itself to the hub.

If you're using an impact wrench, 1) make sure the bolt is well started before spinning them in (so you don't cross-thread them), and 2) torque them correctly.
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  #4  
Old 11-14-2012, 11:26 AM
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SD Z4MR SD Z4MR is offline
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When you jack up your car be sure to use the BMW specified jacking points, which are small rectangular-shaped rubber blocks that are located on the underbody near the wheel well openings. They are actually hollow are are designed to receive special jack pad adapters. These adapters are available at ECS Tuning, Turner Motorsports, Burger Motorsports, and BavAuto. You only need one unless you put the car on jack stands in which case you'll either need two or four, but this shouldn't be necessary. With a floor jack you can easily jack up the entire side of the car using either the front or rear jacking location.

BMW uses hub-centric wheels, which is that small lip on the hub that tturedraider mentioned. With this design, BMW wheels have a tendency to rust onto the hubs. If you remove all five lug bolts and the wheel doesn't budge, you'll have to resort to more physical measures. You can use a rubber mallet, but you may have to resort to sitting on your butt on the ground facing the wheel, with one foot on either side of the tire. Just start alternately pushing with your feet until you break the wheel free. This usually works for me. If it's really stuck, put all the lug nuts back on but leave them a half turn loose. Let the car down and manually push the car back and forth until the wheel loosens.

As floydrogers indicates, use anti-seize compound before you re-install the wheels which will help alleviate the tendency for the wheel to rust onto the hub. Apply it around the hub centric ring and on the surface of the hub between the lug holes where it mates with the wheel. I don't use it on the lug bolts.

When putting the wheel back on the car you can make things a little easier by using a wheel hanger. This is a 6"-8" threaded rod that screws into the top lug hole in the hub and allows you to "hang" the wheel on the hub through one of the lug holes while you get the other lug bolts threaded in. When you have the other four lug nuts installed, remove the wheel hanger and insert the last lug bolt. You can find these at the vendors I mentioned above.
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Last edited by SD Z4MR; 11-14-2012 at 04:38 PM. Reason: Correct references due to paragraph re-ordering
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  #5  
Old 11-14-2012, 04:06 PM
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galahad05 galahad05 is online now
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Don't put anti-seize on the bolts. This is just my opinion, of course. But doing so basically throws any targeted torque-specs for tightening the bolts right out the window. 88 foot-pounds is for dry bolt threads.

If you just sort of torque it down tight but not to any particular torque value, then anti-seize won't matter much (unless you use an impact wrench!).
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Last edited by galahad05; 11-14-2012 at 04:07 PM.
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  #6  
Old 11-15-2012, 05:11 PM
Squidget Squidget is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by galahad05 View Post
If you just sort of torque it down tight but not to any particular torque value, then anti-seize won't matter much (unless you use an impact wrench!).
I've also heard people argue that you should should only use impact wrenches to get bolts off. Always use a hand torque wrench to put bolts on. You are less likely to mangle something that way. I guess it really depends on how much you trust yourself. shrug.
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  #7  
Old 11-15-2012, 05:18 PM
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pointandgo pointandgo is offline
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As a curiosity, is anyone using the TPMS with the winter steel wheels? I don't see that they would fit properly, not to mention the initiation of galvanic corrosion depending on how long they were installed (steel/aluminum). So everyone just tolerates the TPMS warning icons?

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  #8  
Old 11-16-2012, 10:49 AM
Rainman519 Rainman519 is offline
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Make sure to get a wheel stud alignment tool. Got mine from bavauto.com for about $12.00. You screw it into the lug bolt hole and then put the wheel over it to align the holes. Beats the heck out of trying to hold the wheel and insert a bolt. Makes the job much easier.
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  #9  
Old 11-16-2012, 10:51 AM
Rainman519 Rainman519 is offline
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P&G - my winter set-up has TPMS installed. Once I install my winters, I drive around the block and the system "learns" the new sensors. No lights, no problems.
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  #10  
Old 11-16-2012, 01:26 PM
mossman35 mossman35 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rainman519 View Post
Make sure to get a wheel stud alignment tool. Got mine from bavauto.com for about $12.00. You screw it into the lug bolt hole and then put the wheel over it to align the holes. Beats the heck out of trying to hold the wheel and insert a bolt. Makes the job much easier.
I agree 100%!!!! Best money I ever spent.

As a side note, my 2001 Audi had the same lug bolts. That car came with a plastic version of of this. Snapped that at least once.
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  #11  
Old 11-16-2012, 11:05 AM
///M-ratedE90's Avatar
///M-ratedE90 ///M-ratedE90 is offline
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Don't anti-seize the lug nuts...anti-seize the hub lip and plate. The given torque is a "dry" torque based on metal-metal contact. If you lube them and tighten them, you run the risk of stretching the lugnut to get the correct torque value...and also lubricating their 'early release' too.

Also, hand thread the lugnuts to prevent cross threading. After doing hand-tight, I use an impact wrench to gently torque them before dropping the car and torqueing to the correct value.
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Last edited by ///M-ratedE90; 11-16-2012 at 11:15 AM.
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  #12  
Old 11-16-2012, 08:52 PM
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Bob Shiftright Bob Shiftright is offline
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1. +1 on the wheel hanger. The runflats are heavy.

2. The rear jacking point will lift both front and rear wheels on one side.

3. Use jack stands!!!!
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  #13  
Old 12-10-2012, 03:41 PM
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vst335is vst335is is offline
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Here too, TPMS installed and turn on the car and no warning signs, didn't have to drive at all
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