e36 starting problem every 3 attempts, immobiliser or starter maybe?

I have been having trouble with my 318i '94, i go to start it and sometimes it will start first go, then they other times it will just spin and click and ill have to repeat 2-3 time before it starts. Im curious about the onboard cpu and the immobiliser and whether they have something to do with it, is there a certain way of starting it or time to wait before turning over? just need to know as i have been told it shouldnt need a new starter motor.

Who is the fool that told you that?

as i suspected , im thinking its the solenoid on the starter as its spins, clicks and reloads but fails at points, recommend starter refurbish?

Just purchase a remanufactured one. First step you need to do is find out if you need a threaded or non-threaded starter.

For where to buy, it'll be tough with your location, unless you have a wreckers with E36s near you. I'd give http://www.rockauto.com a try. Find out if they'd be willing to ship to you.

EDIT:

-If it is the EWS system, you won't get a click or anything like a starter spinning. You turn the key and nothing at all.

-Have you tested your battery?

-Have you tried whacking the starter with a hammer (or equivalent) while someone turns your key to try to 'free' the solenoid?

Hey Thanks for that i have called a few auto shops that have them new to fit.

It starts once i give it a few trys ( 2-4 ) but 30% of the time it will start first crank.
(so the whack trick hasn't been necessary yet)

the battery was replace a few weeks ago but im am unfourtunatly thinking it maybe the wrong type.
Do you have the recommended specs for the battery necessary e.g cold cracks , amps.

sorry for the silly questions and thank you for your help. =)

I recommend 700 CCA at least, however, that said, the weather gets pretty extreme here.

Will 700 cca affect the electronics negatively if the weather is moderately cool to warm here or is it fine for most weather?

Also how do i specify whether it is threaded or non-threaded starter?

the battery specs would be available by application, so if it calls for a specific group, then that is what you should get. the store where the batteries are available *should* have some sort of chart to be able to verify the battery needed.

as for the starter, the solenoid doesn't spin. the armature inside the starter housing does. the solenoid simply engages the lever to push out the bendix, which will engage the teeth of the flywheel or flexplate.

a click *bzzzzzzzzzzzzzz* sound is usually an indicator of a worn bendix that is freewheeling. they are supposed to lock in the one position to apply torque to the flywheel, and spin freely the opposite way to be able to disengage when the engine is started.

bendixes are not (usually) available for the bmw's. at least i have not ever seen one listed as an available part.

besides, for the amount of labor involved in a 1/2 reman attempt outweighs any cost savings from sourcing a quality reman unit. i'd look at going that route.




df

Yea I agree with you i will look into buying a new starter or manufactured one. how do i specify whether it is a threaded or non-threaded starter?