e39 no control from drivers door module

My daughter recently purchased a 98 528i. The car needed a clutch which I installed. Since the clutch install, the drivers door control module will not function at all. I've checked fuses with no luck. And there appears to be battery voltage at the module. I can't imagine how the clutch replacement work could have caused this problem, but the timing seems too coincidental to NOT be the cause. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Hi,
does the drivers side window work from the drivers door module?
Does the central lock button lock/unlock all the doors? Do the switches on the rear doors move the rear windows?

No, there are no functions operating using the drivers door module. The central lock/unlock works for all door other than the drivers door??

Oh and Yes, the rear windows operate from the rear door switches..?

The answers to my questions just proved that the general module is working fine including the P-BUS which is the communication line to the module.
The issue is pointing to the drivers door module only and it must be a coincidence that this happened after the clutch job. Maybe you discharged the battery while working on the car.

Acoste, thank you for taking the time to help me with this. A couple of other potential factors... I didn't discharge the battery but did disconnect the neg terminal prior to performing the clutch change. Also, the drivers door, inside door handle was broken, my son swapped it with the handle on the drivers side passenger door just prior to the clutch job. I wonder if this could have had an impact?? Another factor, not sure how critical, is the drivers door will not lock, even when using the key on the outside. ?? thanks again for your kind assistance. Jjs.

You can mechanically lock the door from outside with the key by turning it 90 degree. It might need a mild force.

I can suggest basic things to check, further investigation needs an oscilloscope.
First thing is the fuse 29 at the glove box (and maybe 27).
The drivers door module has 3 connectors. Pin 1 on the 5-pin connector is the voltage supply and pin 2 is the ground. The P-BUS line should have 12 Volts (if no one is using the line) which is the 11th pin on the 18-pin connector. These are the very minimum requirements for the module to work (after locking and unlocking the car).

HI,
I also had the similar problem - the driver's door doesn't want to lock with the central lock, only can operate the driver window,and mirror but the other windows and the passenger mirror -not. The other windows operate from the passengers doors swiches and lock with the central locking.
The fuses are ok, but there was a problem with the connector of the drivers door - the bolt that connect the plastic cover of the conector was missing and probably a water pass thru and two of the pins were rusted. I clean them but the problem stays.

Hi Nakoye, your problem is definitely the P-BUS connection between the drivers door module and the general module. Search for the P-BUS line on that connector and make sure it's o.k. Even if it looks nice, it might have some oxide on it making the resistance higher. Contact spray helps.

Originally Posted by acoste

Hi Nakoye, your problem is definitely the P-BUS connection between the drivers door module and the general module. Search for the P-BUS line on that connector and make sure it's o.k. Even if it looks nice, it might have some oxide on it making the resistance higher. Contact spray helps.

Hello Acoste,
thank you for your help, but I think that i made a big mistake with that contact spray and the cleaning procedure, because I made a spark between two pins(I forgot to remove the battery) - how I can understand if I burn something and how to reapair the problem. Thank you again.

Hi Nakoye, could you identify which wires were shorted? The 6 pin connector or the 10 pin? Hopefully the contact spray evaporates faster when having a spark and didn't make any damage.
Check the fuse 29.

Check if you have interior lights on the doors, night lights on the buttons and check if the lock button on the center console works.

Originally Posted by acoste

Check if you have interior lights on the doors, night lights on the buttons and check if the lock button on the center console works.

Fuse 29 is ok, the light are working, and if you mean the button that lock the car from inside - it works- it lock the car except the drivers door.

I checked the voltages on pins 1 & 2 of the 5 pin (good reading) and on Pin 11 (P Bus) of the 18 pin connector, also a good reading (11 vdc engine off, 13 vdc engine running). Interesting that the drivers door will NOT lock with the key? Don't know if that's a factor or not?? thanks again for your help!!

For odd electrical problems, sometimes disconnecting the battery for an hour, or overnight if possible, helps. When you re-connect, make an effort to avoid "bouncing" the connection. "Bouncing" sends an on-off-on 12v spike into the electrical system, and can sometimes cause problems with modules.

Originally Posted by Jjsnymd

I checked the voltages on pins 1 & 2 of the 5 pin (good reading) and on Pin 11 (P Bus) of the 18 pin connector, also a good reading (11 vdc engine off, 13 vdc engine running). Interesting that the drivers door will NOT lock with the key? Don't know if that's a factor or not?? thanks again for your help!!

Hi Jjsnymd,
if you are not able to lock the door outside by turning the key 90 degree, then you have a mechanical problem.
I'm thinking that there is something screwed up at the locking drive of the drivers door and the switches which check if the door is locked or not are stuck in the locked position. Therefore the drivers door module believes the car is locked and denies any window operation. And when it receives a signal to open the drivers door it can't do it because of the issue with the locking drive or the lock itself.

See the schematic I attached and measure the position of the S47 door switch on the 7th and 9th pin of the 18 pin connector.
And you can also measure the voltages on the pin 1,10,16 on the 18 pin connector to see if the locking drive receives the required voltage from the drivers door module when you try to unlock the door with the center console button for example.

EDIT:
First I thought the module is checking the lock status by the S47 door switch, but no, the locking sensor switch must be the mounted in the locking drive. I guess that is the pin16 on the drivers door module (pin 3 on drivers door locking drive).
The S47 switch is pressed when using the key in the lock.

Hi friends,
my problem is solved, after 2 hours of looking at the door and all connections I found that one of the pins is missing - it has rusted and when I open it for first time it broke and I find the remainings of it in the connector. When I replace it everything start working.
Thank you very much for your help again.