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Keeping Your 3 Series Origami Top in Tip Top Shape

743K views 564 replies 155 participants last post by  guaporas 
#1 · (Edited)
A special thanks to fun2drive for his huge contribution :thumbup::thumbup:

Okay folks, you asked for it, here it is. In response to everyone who has asked for a Sticky on how to maintain the seals and keep the moving parts of the convertible hardtop lubricated, fun2drive and I have put our heads together and assembled a DIY. Much of this is based on experience, but we have also tried to get as much input as possible from dealership service techs and the photo documentation included is the direct result of my E93 having just been in for a full dealership hardtop lubrication and adjustment.
We welcome contributions of tips and tricks picked up along the way. As always, comments and questions are great. The intent is to have a one-stop resource for people looking for information on keeping the folding hardtop well maintained and problem free.

Probably one of the greatest concerns of any E93 owner is how to keep their folding hardtop free of creaks, squeaks, wind noise and heaven forbid water leaks. If you own one, you are at least marginally aware that there are literally hundreds of parts in the form of seals, hinges, locks, hydraulics, and microswitches that must all work in perfect harmony to deliver the 22 seconds to nirvana top down experience. So, how to keep things running smoothly:

• Keep the rubber seals lubricated and moisturized.
• Secondly, but equally important is to keep the moving joints well lubricated and dust free.
• Listen to your top. For those who acquired their E93s new, think back to what the top sounded like when the car was brand new. If you acquired your car second hand, go to your local dealership and ask them if you can observe (that is listen) to the top of a brand new E93. It should be silky smooth with no squeaks, no jolts and no stickiness.
So, here are some tips and tricks to keeping your top in great shape.

Seal Lubrication:
There are two products routinely discussed when this topic comes up.

Gummi Pflege (which in German, literally translates to "Rubber Care") made by Einzett.

http://www.amazon.com/einszett-914806-Gummi-Pflege-Rubber/dp/B004B8GTQG

Krytox - specifically the GPL205 Grease made by Dupont. This is expensive stuff, but well worth every penny.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=Krytox+gpl205



A couple of words about products to use on rubber seals: Silicon is a natural enemy of rubber. It makes rubber swell and fracture. Whether your tires or your door seals - do your car a favor, spend the few extra dollars to get good products.

Rubber Seal Lubrication:

The rubber seals on your top are very similar to your skin. They need moisture and protection or they will dry out and eventually crack. At the very least they will shrink with dehydration, or prematurely break down due to UV damage.

Gummi Pflege: The applicator is a little bulky. I found the on board applicator to be overkill for the narrow strips of rubber that make up the E93 lateral top seals (those rubber seals running from driver to passenger side).
As an alternative, I use "foam lollipops" available from either Autogeek or Detailed Image. I moisten the lollipop with the Gummi Pflege then run it along the length of the seal including the grooved area. I follow with a microfiber wrapped sponge to help spread the Gummi evenly and mop up any puddles.

Krytox:
This is best applied using your fingers and a little really does go along way. The best description I can use here is watch your wife or girlfriend the next time she applies lip balm or lip gloss. She will take a little tiny bit on the tip of her finger and smooth it all the way over her lips. Same thing applies here. It takes just a little bit to be smoothed the length of the seal.
You need to keep going over the area until you have a uniform thin coating over the entire seal area.
If you live in a cold area of the country and are trying to do this at temperatures below 60F, take a terry face cloth and get it wet with hot water. Wring it out then wrap it around the syringe applicator and let it sit for a few minutes. This will gently warm the Krytox and make it easier to apply. Alternatively, if it is in the tube, let it sit in a coffee mug of hot water for a few minutes to SOFTEN it.
DON'T stick it in the microwave. If you liquefy it, you may alter its properties.

So now that you know what to use and how to apply it, where does it go? For the seals that is pretty easy. If it's black and rubbery (soft and slightly squishy) and it's on either the front or rear edge of one of the top panels or it is between the front and rear passenger windows it is fair game. Pictures do a far better job of explaining it so here they are. Don't forget to use a little Krytox along the area where the side view mirrors mate with the A pillar.

















A quick word about the tensioning cords. While these are not something that can be lubricated or treated per se, it is of value to inspect them for wear. It seems that around MY 2011, the cords were upgraded to a more robust version as earlier cars exhibited fraying of these cords. My 2009 had the cords replaced under warranty in August 2011.
This is what the frayed cords look like and the points where they are the most visible.









The replaced cords are not as silky looking and are holding up much better.



Now for the hinges, locks, pins and slides: fun2drive is going to explain about lubricants and application techniques. We had a fortuitous photo -op in that my E93's top had developed a nasty little squeak and a bit of a catch or sticky spot when being returned to closed from the stowed (top open) position. It went to the dealership for a full lubrication. The photos were taken the day after the service visit, so we have a pretty clear understanding of the lube points as specified by BMW.
 
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#486 ·
Thank you. And thanks for writing that awesome post on lubricating metal hinges. It really helps a lot
 
#488 ·
Wow ! new to bimmerfest, just began having issues with my 2009 335i convertible, has only about 27K miles; several years unable to drive it regularly due to broken ankles and legs; it is a 6 speed; only way I enjoy driving. Point is Thank you so much, I am anxious to do this special care to my convertible top, I had no idea where to begin; this is invaluable; thank you. I joined to listen in on the chatter; because all of a sudden my car is grumbling at me, so I came online to see if anyone else is having my kinds of problems. In the last year, mice have eaten my wiring twice; 2 pretty expensive repairs; dealer says that BMW uses wiring covering made from Soy; yes like Soy Beans! Then my radio started squealing very loudly, the phone stopped working, the loud outbursts happened so often until the radio died. Then my trunk would not unlock; with or without the key in the keyfob, then one day, it just worked ! Dealer says they have no idea why. I can't afford their cost for a new radio right now. Now the car won't start. It started just fine yesterday. Inserting the Key lights up all the start up lights on the dash, the headlights are brilliant, you can hear the fuel pump try when you push the START button, but it won't turn over. Tried both keys, I am sure it is not the key battery, put a charger on the car battery in case it was low, charger just showed fully charged, so I know it isn’t the battery which I replaced within the year. And I still have not replaced the radio. Could the fact that the radio is not functional have something to do with this new behavior? Somewhere I read that so many parts of a car's computer are tied to the radio; not necessarily in BMW, but I imagine if that is true, I wonder if that is why I am having these problems.
 
#489 ·
Julian
First of all sorry to hear that you were busted up regarding ankles etc. Do yourself a favor and post in the main section not this section which is convertible specific. Couple of things to do which first is to get a BMW specific code reader. It need not be the most expensive one as there are OBDII readers that use Iphone or Android software to read the BMW specific codes. Local parts stores will not read the codes right. 2nd ask BMW is the battery cable service bulletin has been done. This is the cause of a lot of cars not starting and it does show strange behavior. It does sound like the switch might be the issue but one way to see if the battery cable which goes behind the glove box might be an issue is to pound on that area then try starting the car. I know it seems strange but my SA had this happen to his BMW before the update was done and it was the only way the car would start.
Again post in the main section something like car will not start radio acting strange not working or something like that.
Good luck.
 
#490 ·
Silicon Grease

Thank you the authors of these 2 DIYs very much!

One question:

Silicone grease is commonly used for lubricating and preserving rubber parts, such as O-rings. Additionally, silicone grease does not swell or soften the rubber, which can be a problem with hydrocarbon based greases. Lithium grease is petroleum based, which is known to destroy rubber in the long run.

But in this post, it says that silicon is a natural enemy of rubber. It makes rubber swell and fracture.

I am not sure which is right! Any thoughts? I'm trying to decide which to get to lubricate the joints: lithium grease or Super Lube 97008 Silicone Lubricating Brake Grease with PTFE. Some of the grease might get on the rubber sealant, so I am trying to decide which is the best.
 
#492 ·
I hope Kat still reads this column as she is a chemist and can answer this question better than I can as I am an engineer.
Stand by she will hopefully fill us in.
I am a fellow engineer as well! I went ahead and go with silicone grease. One last thing: in the post, you said you have pictures of the dealer tools that are use to adjust these tops. Did you post them anywhere? Would you mind share them us? I am just curious, as all engineers do!

Again, thank you very much for your expertise!
 
#494 ·
Roof Rattle

My roof rattle has gone worse. Every time I hit a bump on the road, I hear a lot of rattle coming somewhere from the rear pillars. I was not able to locate where exactly it's coming from. I took it to the Dealership for adjustments. The said I might need to change the cowl locks and still they cannot guarantee that it'll fix my problem. Does anyone have similar experience? How did you guy resolve?
 
#498 ·
My roof rattle has gone worse. Every time I hit a bump on the road, I hear a lot of rattle coming somewhere from the rear pillars. I was not able to locate where exactly it's coming from. I took it to the Dealership for adjustments. The said I might need to change the cowl locks and still they cannot guarantee that it'll fix my problem. Does anyone have similar experience? How did you guy resolve?
Got the same problem. If you get it resolved please let me know.
Thanks, ML
 
#495 · (Edited)
Just got a 2011 E93 (335i) last week and I'm totally in LOVE with it. This thread was exactly the lowdown I wanted to know, thank you for all the pictures and details. I've printed it out so I never lose this information to the cruel gods of "image no longer available". One small question: when ordering Krytox GPL 205 Grease would you advise that I get the 0.5oz or 2oz tube? (possibly bearing in mind that I hope to keep the car for a long long time) Again, thank you Fun2Drive and all other contributors for this excellent source of instruction, it is appreciated big time. :thumbup:

Just for fun, here's a picture. Color is Tasman Green Metallic

 
#496 ·
Beautiful car. Larger tube was for longer use. Kat was the originator and she and I worked on the guide which should be updated by the way. Giving credit where credit is due she contacted me and suggested the idea. She was very active but I think has moved on to a Merc still keeping the BMW. Hoping she will chime in. Enjoy your beautiful ride....
 
#500 ·
Hi Kat and fun2drive,

Thank you very much for this detailed guide, even until this day, you have hundreds of people still using this methods in order to make sure their roof is in tip top condition.

I am looking to do this maintenance for the first time on my E93 as I have noticed there is a slight creaking noise when the roof is going back on (during the final third part when the roof is about to connect to the A-pillor and windscreen).

Is there a pdf of the guide by any chance? I saw a pdf on post 2 but this was stated as only half and with nearly 500 pages from this thread, it's very hard to find when browsing on the phone.

Any help would be much appreciated!

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
 
#501 ·
Here is how to reduce or eliminate rattles

Hi Everyone, it's been a while since I posted. But today I would like to let you know how I managed to reduce 95-99% of my roof rattles and squeaks. There are two types of annoying noises as mentioned:

1. Rattles - metallic or plastic banging against each other when driving over bumps or rocky roads.

2. Squeaks - rubber parts rubbing against each other or the window glass.

Here is what I did:

1. Rattles - used Red High temperature Mobile One grease from Autozone. It is very thick and I stuffed it into the two holes with the metal rods on each side of the middle section of the roof. These two rods retract when the roof is opened so you cannot see them. When the roof closes, the rods get inserted into the corresponding receptacles on the rear section of the roof. Now I stuffed red grease into the receptacle holes as well as the rod holes. The reason why there are sometimes rattles from those areas is because there are a couple of hard plastic stabilizing parts that get brittle and break and the rods don't stay in place - so they rattle against the walls around it. The red thick grease acts as a suspension and absorber, eliminating the rattles.

The red grease is so thick it does not drip anywhere and it stay in place, so no worries about drips.

2. Squeaks - used the BMW door lubricant, I think it is called Carbaflo KSP105. It is a very small stick but stupid expensive. I applied to all seals and rubber parts and it stopped the squeaks.

So, there is a way to stop the noise, even in a very very old roof. And don't forget to lubricate all the joints and hinges for trouble free converting.

Note: Gummiplfege rubber conditioner will not eliminate any squeaks. It is used for condition the rubber only.

Happy Driving Everyone.

VT
 
#529 ·
Hi Everyone, it's been a while since I posted. But today I would like to let you know how I managed to reduce 95-99% of my roof rattles and squeaks. There are two types of annoying noises as mentioned:

1. Rattles - metallic or plastic banging against each other when driving over bumps or rocky roads.

2. Squeaks - rubber parts rubbing against each other or the window glass.

Here is what I did:

1. Rattles - used Red High temperature Mobile One grease from Autozone. It is very thick and I stuffed it into the two holes with the metal rods on each side of the middle section of the roof. These two rods retract when the roof is opened so you cannot see them. When the roof closes, the rods get inserted into the corresponding receptacles on the rear section of the roof. Now I stuffed red grease into the receptacle holes as well as the rod holes. The reason why there are sometimes rattles from those areas is because there are a couple of hard plastic stabilizing parts that get brittle and break and the rods don't stay in place - so they rattle against the walls around it. The red thick grease acts as a suspension and absorber, eliminating the rattles.

The red grease is so thick it does not drip anywhere and it stay in place, so no worries about drips.

2. Squeaks - used the BMW door lubricant, I think it is called Carbaflo KSP105. It is a very small stick but stupid expensive. I applied to all seals and rubber parts and it stopped the squeaks.

So, there is a way to stop the noise, even in a very very old roof. And don't forget to lubricate all the joints and hinges for trouble free converting.

Note: Gummiplfege rubber conditioner will not eliminate any squeaks. It is used for condition the rubber only.

Happy Driving Everyone.

VT
Requested pics of the locations of the holes. Material property Wood stain Food Paint
Vehicle door Automotive exterior Windshield Auto part Vehicle
Fictional character Action figure
 
#504 ·
hi all,

thanks to everyone for the information in this thread. I just joined after finding this topic.

I just bought a 2011 e93 m3 with 11k miles and have already had to repair the top. There was a rattle and clunk near the drivers area, above my head, near the corner. Took it to the dealer and they said they needed to install space washers. They quoted me 750$. Yes I paid, but now there is absolutely no noise. I am guessing that the washers needed to be placed in certain areas to tighten things, not sure though.

I also noticed that the seals were dry. not brittle as if they would break to the touch, but definitely like chapped lips in the winter.

Personally, I went with 0.5 oz tube of krytox and the wurth HHS-K from BAVAUTO. I called wurth and they told me the K would be better but I have no clue why they would say that when 2000 replaced K....anyway they had said the 2000 was more for pressurized systems...idk I am not a science person.

The krytox was JUST enough to do everything. So I think a 2 oz tube is great for 1-2 years, and an 8oz tube for life. As for the wurth, this stuff is the ****, I added this to all my house door hinges lol.

just wanted to tell my experience and show everyone my thanks for the information provided here.

So far my top is perfect, goes up and down smoothly and only hear minimal sounds. I think prior to the wurth there was the slightest noise from the parts, now nothing.
 
#505 ·
hi all,

thanks to everyone for the information in this thread. I just joined after finding this topic.

I just bought a 2011 e93 m3 with 11k miles and have already had to repair the top. There was a rattle and clunk near the drivers area, above my head, near the corner. Took it to the dealer and they said they needed to install space washers. They quoted me 750$. Yes I paid, but now there is absolutely no noise. I am guessing that the washers needed to be placed in certain areas to tighten things, not sure though.

I also noticed that the seals were dry. not brittle as if they would break to the touch, but definitely like chapped lips in the winter.

Personally, I went with 0.5 oz tube of krytox and the wurth HHS-K from BAVAUTO. I called wurth and they told me the K would be better but I have no clue why they would say that when 2000 replaced K....anyway they had said the 2000 was more for pressurized systems...idk I am not a science person.

The krytox was JUST enough to do everything. So I think a 2 oz tube is great for 1-2 years, and an 8oz tube for life. As for the wurth, this stuff is the ****, I added this to all my house door hinges lol.

just wanted to tell my experience and show everyone my thanks for the information provided here.

So far my top is perfect, goes up and down smoothly and only hear minimal sounds. I think prior to the wurth there was the slightest noise from the parts, now nothing.
ETL,

Great post. I have a clunk behind me in the left rear corner when the roof is closed. Dealer was saying it was the aftermarket shocks making the noise. BS. Would it be possible to take a picture of the spacers and post them. Probably something I an do myself.

Thanks, ML
 
#508 ·
Wow, great thread. Thanks to all who took the time to take pictures and do write ups.

I tried to run through all of the pages but it is taking me forever to answer a question so thought I would just ask as I am not sure how to search this.

Do we need to somehow lubricate the black cord that frays off to the white strings inside of them to prevent the fraying from happening? Maybe some kind of EZ Glide lube or something? Sorry if this is really obvious to everyone but me.

Thanks for any info.
 
#509 ·
Wow, great thread. Thanks to all who took the time to take pictures and do write ups.

I tried to run through all of the pages but it is taking me forever to answer a question so thought I would just ask as I am not sure how to search this.

Do we need to somehow lubricate the black cord that frays off to the white strings inside of them to prevent the fraying from happening? Maybe some kind of EZ Glide lube or something? Sorry if this is really obvious to everyone but me.

Thanks for any info.
Do not contaminate the chord. Only replace it when it frats. An easy job and chords are cheap. Use common sense and take photos of chord positiona nd directs as well as any connecting ends.

Any foreign liquid will increase damage to the chord. Much like how motor oil damages drive belts.
 
#510 ·
A special thanks to fun2drive for his huge contribution [emoji106][emoji106]

Okay folks, you asked for it, here it is. In response to everyone who has asked for a Sticky on how to maintain the seals and keep the moving parts of the convertible hardtop lubricated, fun2drive and I have put our heads together and assembled a DIY. Much of this is based on experience, but we have also tried to get as much input as possible from dealership service techs and the photo documentation included is the direct result of my E93 having just been in for a full dealership hardtop lubrication and adjustment.
We welcome contributions of tips and tricks picked up along the way. As always, comments and questions are great. The intent is to have a one-stop resource for people looking for information on keeping the folding hardtop well maintained and problem free.

Probably one of the greatest concerns of any E93 owner is how to keep their folding hardtop free of creaks, squeaks, wind noise and heaven forbid water leaks. If you own one, you are at least marginally aware that there are literally hundreds of parts in the form of seals, hinges, locks, hydraulics, and microswitches that must all work in perfect harmony to deliver the 22 seconds to nirvana top down experience. So, how to keep things running smoothly:

• Keep the rubber seals lubricated and moisturized.
•Secondly, but equally important is to keep the moving joints well lubricated and dust free.
•Listen to your top. For those who acquired their E93s new, think back to what the top sounded like when the car was brand new. If you acquired your car second hand, go to your local dealership and ask them if you can observe (that is listen) to the top of a brand new E93. It should be silky smooth with no squeaks, no jolts and no stickiness.
So, here are some tips and tricks to keeping your top in great shape.

Seal Lubrication:
There are two products routinely discussed when this topic comes up.

Gummi Pflege (which in German, literally translates to "Rubber Care") made by Einzett.

http://www.amazon.com/einszett-914806-Gummi-Pflege-Rubber/dp/B004B8GTQG

Krytox - specifically the GPL205 Grease made by Dupont. This is expensive stuff, but well worth every penny.

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=Krytox+gpl205



A couple of words about products to use on rubber seals: Silicon is a natural enemy of rubber. It makes rubber swell and fracture. Whether your tires or your door seals - do your car a favor, spend the few extra dollars to get good products.

Rubber Seal Lubrication:

The rubber seals on your top are very similar to your skin. They need moisture and protection or they will dry out and eventually crack. At the very least they will shrink with dehydration, or prematurely break down due to UV damage.

Gummi Pflege: The applicator is a little bulky. I found the on board applicator to be overkill for the narrow strips of rubber that make up the E93 lateral top seals (those rubber seals running from driver to passenger side).
As an alternative, I use "foam lollipops" available from either Autogeek or Detailed Image. I moisten the lollipop with the Gummi Pflege then run it along the length of the seal including the grooved area. I follow with a microfiber wrapped sponge to help spread the Gummi evenly and mop up any puddles.

Krytox:
This is best applied using your fingers and a little really does go along way. The best description I can use here is watch your wife or girlfriend the next time she applies lip balm or lip gloss. She will take a little tiny bit on the tip of her finger and smooth it all the way over her lips. Same thing applies here. It takes just a little bit to be smoothed the length of the seal.
You need to keep going over the area until you have a uniform thin coating over the entire seal area.
If you live in a cold area of the country and are trying to do this at temperatures below 60F, take a terry face cloth and get it wet with hot water. Wring it out then wrap it around the syringe applicator and let it sit for a few minutes. This will gently warm the Krytox and make it easier to apply. Alternatively, if it is in the tube, let it sit in a coffee mug of hot water for a few minutes to SOFTEN it.
DON'T stick it in the microwave. If you liquefy it, you may alter its properties.

So now that you know what to use and how to apply it, where does it go? For the seals that is pretty easy. If it's black and rubbery (soft and slightly squishy) and it's on either the front or rear edge of one of the top panels or it is between the front and rear passenger windows it is fair game. Pictures do a far better job of explaining it so here they are. Don't forget to use a little Krytox along the area where the side view mirrors mate with the A pillar.

















A quick word about the tensioning cords. While these are not something that can be lubricated or treated per se, it is of value to inspect them for wear. It seems that around MY 2011, the cords were upgraded to a more robust version as earlier cars exhibited fraying of these cords. My 2009 had the cords replaced under warranty in August 2011.
This is what the frayed cords look like and the points where they are the most visible.









The replaced cords are not as silky looking and are holding up much better.



Now for the hinges, locks, pins and slides: fun2drive is going to explain about lubricants and application techniques. We had a fortuitous photo -op in that my E93's top had developed a nasty little squeak and a bit of a catch or sticky spot when being returned to closed from the stowed (top open) position. It went to the dealership for a full lubrication. The photos were taken the day after the service visit, so we have a pretty clear understanding of the lube points as specified by BMW.
Thanks

Sent from my SM-G935F using Bimmerfest mobile app
 
#511 ·
Cannot operate Top or Windows on my HT convertible.

I'm new to this site and will try to orient myself to post and all that's going on this site.

I have a question?
Yesterday I was driving my car and decided to put my top down. I stopped the button down put my car on Drive and left, I guess I did not completely waited for the green light to come on and the alarm started going off. I stopped again and pushed the button in both directions which did not changed the outcome. I cannot figure out why it's not working that is the top and the windows. I cannot open the trunk unless I use the key. The red light on the console keeps flashing red and the alarm keeps dinging. Would you have any input on what to look into or what I can do to reset this?

I have turned the car off
I have left it overnight to see if it would reset itself.
I open the trunk with the key since it does not open by touch.

Much appreciate your input.
 
#512 ·
I'm new to this site and will try to orient myself to post and all that's going on this site.

I have a question?
Yesterday I was driving my car and decided to put my top down. I stopped the button down put my car on Drive and left, I guess I did not completely waited for the green light to come on and the alarm started going off. I stopped again and pushed the button in both directions which did not changed the outcome. I cannot figure out why it's not working that is the top and the windows. I cannot open the trunk unless I use the key. The red light on the console keeps flashing red and the alarm keeps dinging. Would you have any input on what to look into or what I can do to reset this?

I have turned the car off
I have left it overnight to see if it would reset itself.
I open the trunk with the key since it does not open by touch.

Much appreciate your input.
You're hall sensor is most likely malfunctioning and needs replacement.

Google you car model and year hall sensor and find a diy. Ecs or fcp euro will have them. Not expensive to buy...and you should do it yourself and not get raped by dealerships.
 
#513 ·
Cannot operate Top or Windows on my HT convertible.

From what I've been reading it seems that the top retraction did not finished it's cycle to complete locking in place. How can I finish this procedure? Pushing the button does not do it There has to be a specific procedure to follow in order to finish the locking in inside the trunk. It is hard to take a look at anything, or even trying to disconnect the battery to reset the system since the whole top is inside the drunk and there is no space to remove the panels to the battery below.

I was able to close or open the windows all the way up or down using the hand key on the drivers door handle, but, this did not made a difference on the top problem.

Anyone else has any suggestions? Really need to find the answer to this.
Thank you all.
 
#516 ·
plastic shim?

One of mine fell off some time ago. I had no idea whether it was important, but it seemed unlikely to me that it would be there if it had no purpose. Possibly acts as a shim to keep the top tight and free from squeaks. I forget how I reattached mine. May have been as simple as Scotch tape or I may have cleaned off the old adhesive (Goo Gone will do it) and used double sided tape. (It appeared to be a peel and stick item for BMW.) You may be able to order a replacement through a dealer's parts department. It will be easier if you take the old part in with you. If not, I would use the part as a template to make a replacement for the other side. Just look for some plastic of the same thickness. Good luck!
 
#517 ·
key fob operation?

I have a 2011 E93 WITHOUT comfort access.

Can I program the system to use the key fob to remotely open the top? I don't need other comfort access features but it would be nice to get the top going down as I approach the car.

Can Carly give me the ability to do this?

And I'm not up for spending $800 for a full kit!

Thanx
 
#522 ·
I have a 2011 E93 WITHOUT comfort access.

Can I program the system to use the key fob to remotely open the top? I don't need other comfort access features but it would be nice to get the top going down as I approach the car.

Can Carly give me the ability to do this?

And I'm not up for spending $800 for a full kit!

Thanx
I believe the only way to remotely open roof is via comfort access. However, you can email carly bmw app software company or bimmergeeks who make ProTools coding - and ask them if their coders can override this.
 
#518 ·
roof molding

Just had my e93 for a couple of months. I saw the center driver side molding was loose and just figured I'd eventually get around to fixing it. Dropped my car off at the dealership today for some maintenance and inquired about it. Guy told me when that happens there's usually a spring that breaks underneath. He pulled it back and showed me a scratch to the roof just inside the molding and since I stand at a towering 5'4" I never saw it. They're going to quote it out to me, but I'll probably give this a go myself and save hundreds thanks to the info from matreyia. Thanks for the thread and can't wait for the warmer months.
 
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