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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E46 (1999 - 2006)

E46 (1999 - 2006)
The fourth generation 3 Series (E46 chassis) was introduced in 1999 and set the standard for engineering and performance during it's years of production including being named to Car & Driver's 10 best list every one of those years! ! -- View the E46 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 02-16-2006, 07:48 AM
Vodka G Vodka G is offline
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55k miles what should be done???

So i've got a 2001 325i with 5 spd steptronic

well....not really mine (my ex-wife's) but long story short

what needs to be done at 55k miles

tranny fluid i suppose??? since i KNOW they are not life time....the question is that i have hear stories about how you HAVE to bring it back to the dealer caz theyhave to plug in the computer to do it rite (which i doubt) is that true??.......if not what kind of fluid should i use??? Mobil 1 ATF or Redline ATF?? because i aint gonna buy the BMW $21/L stuff

and also what should the rear diff. use??? Redline GL5+ (with the limited slip additive) or GL4

will do a coolant flush with BMW coolant.......

what else needs to be done??

TIA
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  #2  
Old 02-16-2006, 08:27 PM
JeffDunes JeffDunes is offline
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You are getting real close to time for Inspection II normally performed at 60,000 miles. See below:

BMW Service Maintenance Checklist

BMW Engine Oil Service
Required
Change oil and oil filter while engine is at normal operating temperature.
Change oil in rear axle while at normal operating temperature (only at 1st
engine oil service)
Reset Service Indicator
Note: Do not reset Service indicator when additional oil changes
(between the normal intervals) are requested by the customer.
BMW Oxygen Sensor Replacement
Required at intervals of 100,000 miles
BMW Inspection I
Undercarriage
Change engine oil and oil filter while engine is at normal operating
temperature.
Check transmission for leaks.
Check rear axle for leaks.
Visually check fuel tank, lines and connections for leaks
Check condition, position and mounting of exhaust system. Examine for
leaks.
Check power steering system for leaks
Remove and install front and rear disc brake pads, check overall
thickness. Examine brake disc surfaces. Clean brake pad contact points
in calipers. Grease wheel centering hubs.
Check steering for absence of play, condition of suspension track rods,
front axle joints, steering linkage and joint disc.
Check brake and clutch system connections and lines for leaks, damage
and incorrect positioning.
Check for free movement of the parking brake cables. Adjust parking
brake if necessary.
Check all tie pressures (including spare). Correct if necessary. Check
condition of tires (outer surfaces [left/right]), tread wear and pattern; in
case of uneven tread wear readjust wheel alignment if requested (to be
invoiced separately).
Note: If requested, rotate all four road wheels as instructed and
rebalance (invoice separately).
Engine Compartment
Read out diagnostic system.
Check engine cooling system/heater hose connections for leaks. Check
coolant level and antifreeze protection level; add coolant if necessary.
Note: Coolant must be replaced every 2 years (time interval begins from
vehicle's production date).
Check windshield washer fluid level and antifreeze protection. Fill up
and/or correct if necessary.
Check air conditioner for operation.
Reset Service Indicator.
Body/Electrical Equipment
Check battery electrolyte level and add distilled water if required.
Perform battery load test.

Body/Electrical Equipment (continued)
Checking lighting system, I.e., headlights, fog lights, parking, back-up,
license plate, interior (including map reading lights0, glove box, flash-
light, illuminated make-up mirrors, luggage compartment/area lights.
Check instrument panel and dashboard illumination.
Check all warning/indicator lights, check control.
Check turn signals, hazard warning flashers, brake lights, horns, head-
light dimmer and flasher switch.
Check wipers and washer system(s); wiper blades, washer jet positions.
Check rear window washer level and antifreeze protection. Fill up and/
or correct.
Check condition and function of safety belts.
Oil hood, trunk/tailgate and door hinges. Grease hood, trunk/tailgate and
door latches. Check operations of all latches.
Check central locking/double lock.
Replace micro filter.
Note: Reduce replacement interval in dusty operating conditions.
Check heater/air conditioner blower, rear window defogger.
Check rear view mirrors.
Visually examine the SRS airbag units for torn cover, obvious damage or
attachment of decals, decorations or accessories.
Activate automatic roll-over protection system 9if equipped) via
diagnostic link.
Note: First remove hardtop/lower top.
Final Inspection
Road test with check of brakes, suspension, steering, clutch/manual
transmission or automatic transmission.
BMW Inspection II
Includes all items listed under Inspection I and the following checks
and maintenance operations:
Engine Compartment
Replace spark plugs.
Replace intake air cleaner element.
Note: Reduce replacement interval in dusty operating conditions.
Check condition of all drive belts.
Undercarriage
Change ATF in automatic transmission while at normal operating
temperature.
Change oil in manual transmission while at normal operating
temperature.
Change oil in rear axle while at normal operating temperature.
Check thickness of parking brake linings.
Half-shafts: Check for leaks at flexible boots.
Replace fuel filters. Recommended in California, required in all other
states.
Note: Reduce replacement interval if fuel contamination is encountered
or prevalent.
Inspect entire body according to terms of rust perforation limited
warranty (must be performed at least every two years).
At Every Second Inspection II:
Change oil in manual transmission while at normal operating
temperature.
Check clutch disc for wear.
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  #3  
Old 02-17-2006, 05:20 AM
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Artslinger Artslinger is offline
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Not saying you are wrong but where did you get this info?

I have never read about a 2001 e46 325/330 having the following 4 services done during a Inspection II with 55,000 miles on the car.

1. Replace spark plugs.
2. Change oil in manual transmission while at normal operating
temperature.
3. Change oil in rear axle while at normal operating temperature.
4. Replace fuel filter
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  #4  
Old 02-17-2006, 07:21 AM
JeffDunes JeffDunes is offline
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Your car is 5 years old. If you have not done these items, I would strongly suggest you do them. You can wait longer to do spark plugs, but they get more difficult to remove over time and mileage.
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  #5  
Old 02-17-2006, 08:01 AM
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WAM WAM is offline
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Jeff is correct about the things that should be done, but the list of items is not a current one. The dealer can give you the current inspection II worklist or you can download it from the Owners circle at bmwusa.com.

Get the work done at an independent BMW mechanic.
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  #6  
Old 02-17-2006, 08:17 AM
Vodka G Vodka G is offline
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i agree with all the work mention above
PLUS i want to change out the tranny fluid...(and the diff fluid)

what fluid should i be using for those??? (instead of the BMW OEM stuff that cost $24/L)

platnium 4s for the plugs??

and also do i need the o2 sensors to be replaced???
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SUVs-'08 Acura RDX Tech -'04 BMW X3 3.0
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4 doors -'01 BMW 325i E46 -'96 MBZ C280 Sport
no doors- 00' Suki GS500
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  #7  
Old 02-17-2006, 10:41 AM
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Artslinger Artslinger is offline
BMW + twisty road = fun
Location: Evanston
 
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Mein Auto: Car
Quote:
Originally Posted by WAM
Jeff is correct about the things that should be done, but the list of items is not a current one. The dealer can give you the current inspection II worklist or you can download it from the Owners circle at bmwusa.com.

Get the work done at an independent BMW mechanic.
If it isn't the current inspection II worklist are you sure the list is correct?

I do not think a BMW servce center will do these following things on your first Inspection II.

1. Replace spark plugs.
2. Change oil in manual transmission .
3. Change oil in rear axle .
4. Replace fuel filter

Last edited by Artslinger; 02-17-2006 at 10:44 AM.
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  #8  
Old 02-18-2006, 09:26 AM
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milobloom242 milobloom242 is offline
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Location: CA
 
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Posts: 2,550
Mein Auto: 325i
Quote:
Originally Posted by Vodka G
i agree with all the work mention above
PLUS i want to change out the tranny fluid...(and the diff fluid)

what fluid should i be using for those??? (instead of the BMW OEM stuff that cost $24/L)

platnium 4s for the plugs??

and also do i need the o2 sensors to be replaced???
Spark plugs - Bentley calls for NGK but local auto parts didn't have 'em so I went with Bosch platinum 4s they work great. The original OEM ones were also Bosch, incidentally. Don't forget anti-seize compound.

Haven't replaced O2 sensors yet.

For ATF, I went with BMW fluid. Have read on other boards that folks with manual transmissions had clutch issues after changing out to aftermarket fluid which went away after switching back to OEM fluid - I have not seen anything like this yet for the step transmission. Just played it safe although yeah it's pricey.

Last edited by milobloom242; 02-18-2006 at 09:32 AM.
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  #9  
Old 02-20-2006, 06:47 AM
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Blinky330XI Blinky330XI is offline
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I'm at 55k, and I have a boatload to do....

Inspection II
and
Control Arms
and
Rear Brakes (Pads, Rotors)
and
4 Tires.

Looks like someones gonna be busy....
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  #10  
Old 02-20-2006, 09:14 AM
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WAM WAM is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artslinger
If it isn't the current inspection II worklist are you sure the list is correct?

I do not think a BMW servce center will do these following things on your first Inspection II.

1. Replace spark plugs.
2. Change oil in manual transmission .
3. Change oil in rear axle .
4. Replace fuel filter

You are correct, A BMW dealer will not do the above mentioned jobs. I meant to say that all the work listed should be done. My recommendation was that it should be done at an independent BMW mechanic.

The following is the Inspection II checklist for a 2001 325i:


Undercarriage
Change oil and oil filter while engine is at operating temperature.
We recommend BMW High Performance 5W-30 Synthetic oil, p/n 07 51 0 017 866
Check transmission for leaks.
Check rear axle for leaks.
Half shafts: Check for leaks at flexible boots.
Visually check fuel tank, lines and connections for leaks.
Check condition, positioning, and mounting of exhaust system. Examine for leaks.
Check power steering system for leaks. Check p/s fluid level; add fluid if necessary.
Check overall thickness of front and rear disc brake pads using special tool. Record results. If replacement is necessary*:
Examine brake disc surfaces. Clean brake pad contact points in calipers. Grease wheel centering hubs. Check thickness of parking brake linings only when replacing rear pads. Record results.
Check brake and clutch system connections and lines for leaks, damage, and incorrect positioning.
Check steering for absence of play, condition of suspension track rods, front axle joints, steering linkage and joint disc.
Check parking brake actuation. Adjust if necessary.
Check all tire pressures (including spare - except M3, M5, Z8 and Alpina). Correct if necessary. Check condition of tires (outer surfaces [left/right]), tread wear and pattern; in case of uneven tread wear readjust wheel alignment if requested.*
Note:If requested rotate all four road wheels as instructed and rebalance.*
Inspect entire body according to terms of rust perforation limited warranty (must be performed at least every two years).

Engine Compartment
Read out diagnostic system.
Check engine cooling system/heater hose connections for leaks. Check coolant level and antifreeze protection level; add coolant if necessary.
Note: Coolant must be replaced every 4 years (time interval begins from vehicle's production date).
Check level of brake and clutch fluid in reservoir. Add fluid if required.
Replace brake fluid every 2 years (timing interval begins from vehicle's production date).*
Check windshield washer fluid level and antifreeze protection. Fill up and/or correct if necessary.
Check air conditioner operation.
Replace microfilter.
Note: reduce replacement interval in dusty operating conditions.
Reset Service Indicator.
Replace intake air cleaner element.
Note: Reduce replace interval in dusty operating conditions.

Body/Electrical Equipment
Check battery state-of-charge, and charge if required.*
Check lighting system, i.e., headlights, foglights, parking, back-up, license-plate, interior (including map reading lights), glove box, flashlight, illuminated make-up mirrors, luggage compartment lights.
Check instrument panel and dashboard illumination.
Check all warning/indicator lights, check control.
Check turn signals, hazard warning flashers, brake lights, horns, headlight dimmer/flasher switch.
Check wipers and washer system(s);wiper blades, washer jet positions.
Check condition and function of safety belts.
Recharge or replace batteries for remote controls in all vehicle master keys.
Check central locking/double lock.
Check operation of all latches.
Check heater/air conditioner blower fan, rear window defogger.
Check rear view mirrors.
Visually examine the SRS airbag units for torn covers, obvious damage or attachment of decals, decorations or accessories.
Activate automatic roll-over protection system (if equipped) via diagnostic link.
Note:First remove hardtop/lower top.

Final Inspection
Road test with check of brakes, suspension, steering, clutch/manual transmission or automatic transmission (except M3, M5, and Z8).
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  #11  
Old 02-20-2006, 11:29 AM
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Artslinger Artslinger is offline
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I would add changing the hoses and belts at 55k no matter how good they look.
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  #12  
Old 02-20-2006, 01:02 PM
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Blinky330XI Blinky330XI is offline
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Whats the going rate for the replacement of hoses and belts? I hate this, because the hoses are off I might as well just change out the water pump, and the radiator... right? Or am I crazy?
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  #13  
Old 02-20-2006, 02:56 PM
imtjm imtjm is offline
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i would add, trade the sucker in for a Yugo
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  #14  
Old 02-20-2006, 06:01 PM
windnsea00 windnsea00 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blinky330XI
Whats the going rate for the replacement of hoses and belts? I hate this, because the hoses are off I might as well just change out the water pump, and the radiator... right? Or am I crazy?
You don't have to change your radiator out unless you have leaks or it's not functioning properly. Water pump wouldn't be a bad idea if your down there, plus it's not very expensive.
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  #15  
Old 02-20-2006, 07:26 PM
JeffDunes JeffDunes is offline
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Sorry to say, but if you are going to change the belts, you should really change the tensioners too.
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  #16  
Old 02-21-2006, 06:41 AM
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Blinky330XI Blinky330XI is offline
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A Yugo.... PRICELESS!

But seriously, should I consider a trade? This looks like $3k+ in Maint/Repairs. Although all vehicles reach this point at some time... I guess its a question of how long do I want to drive the vehicle?
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  #17  
Old 02-21-2006, 06:42 AM
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Blinky330XI Blinky330XI is offline
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ooops
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