Daughter's 88 325is

Been reading the forum (Thanks guys, you helped me many times.) but never posted.

So my 17 y/o kid buys this 88 325is coupe because its red. That's cool, great car.
But the drive shaft pops on rotation slightly. Sealed bearings and not servicable, so I buy a new shaft.
No odometer or cruise control. Don't want to crack the dash just yet, so she can live with that.

Then, passenger door window stops working. It buzzes when activated and there's no change when I switch the drivers window switch with the passenger. So i'm figuring that I need to change out the regulator and may as well do the motor at the same time, right? It's the serpentine regulator with the cable inside. I suspect that it'll be a pain to switch it out if I can ever find the unit on the net. No success yet.

Then it starts bucking and the engine light comes on at idle speed. AFM? Hope so because I just ordered a replacement one.

Today she tells me that sometimes the speedometer and gauge lights stop working, but a sharp smack on the dash restores all.

1. Did she get suckered or are all old 325is's a full time hobby?
2. Am I right about the AFM needing changing?
3. Any ideas on finding the right regulator/motor for this bad girl?
4. What with the odometer/speedodmeter/gauges thing, it's clear that I'm cracking open the dash. But are these problems related? Odometer and speedometer don't share a lot from what I can see. Do I have mechanical failure as well as an electrical problem to play with here?

Any thoughts that you can offer will be appreciated.
Dad

Originally Posted by Northsea

Been reading the forum (Thanks guys, you helped me many times.) but never posted.

So my 17 y/o kid buys this 88 325is coupe because its red. That's cool, great car.
But the drive shaft pops on rotation slightly. Sealed bearings and not servicable, so I buy a new shaft.
No odometer or cruise control. Don't want to crack the dash just yet, so she can live with that.

Then, passenger door window stops working. It buzzes when activated and there's no change when I switch the drivers window switch with the passenger. So i'm figuring that I need to change out the regulator and may as well do the motor at the same time, right? It's the serpentine regulator with the cable inside. I suspect that it'll be a pain to switch it out if I can ever find the unit on the net. No success yet.

Then it starts bucking and the engine light comes on at idle speed. AFM? Hope so because I just ordered a replacement one.

Today she tells me that sometimes the speedometer and gauge lights stop working, but a sharp smack on the dash restores all.

1. Did she get suckered or are all old 325is's a full time hobby?
2. Am I right about the AFM needing changing?
3. Any ideas on finding the right regulator/motor for this bad girl?
4. What with the odometer/speedodmeter/gauges thing, it's clear that I'm cracking open the dash. But are these problems related? Odometer and speedometer don't share a lot from what I can see. Do I have mechanical failure as well as an electrical problem to play with here?

Any thoughts that you can offer will be appreciated.
Dad

You are going to need to replace the center support bearing to cure the driveshaft issue and most likely the flex disc also.
1. Yes, it does seem that they require a lot of love at their tender age.
2. Not sure, sounds more like a short or a bad ICV.
3. It is going to be the early model regulator found in the pre 88 coupes, sedans, and cabrio's. Hit the junkyard, you may fstumble upon a good ICV while there.
4.You are not really "cracking open the dash". you take off the cover above the pedals, remove the trim plate right above the steering column by reaching up behind it and loosening the the finger type nuts on both sides. (One is around behind the headlight switch, the other is just about dead opposite on the other side) Remove the gauge trim cover with a small phillips screwdriver, two screws going up toward the dash inside the gauge pod, two on the corner part revealed by the trim panel you took off already. Be careful removing these pieces, they are old. Now you will see the cluster, it is held in by two of the same kind of screws you took out of the trim for it. After you take those out GENTLY pull down a little on the tabs and tilt the top of it toward you till you can pull it out a bit, unplug all the connections and the gauges are out.


The odometer is a problem with the gears inside the speedometer, you probably don't want to attempt to replace those unless you are good with electronics and small parts. The lights are probably loose bulbs that you can now get to easily and you will likely want to replace the two that light up the cluster, one is on the speedo side, one on the side of the tach.
If you decide to go to the junkyard and replce the whole gauge cluster you need to take your old one and match it up, some where made by MotorMeter and some by VDO, they are not interchangeable, nor are most of their parts, also you need to know if your gauges have a little white plug in them on the bottom front below the temp gauge.


In oreder to help with the cruise we need to know if the car is stick or an auto.

1. Once you get them straight...they cease being a major hobby.
2. The bucking could be spark or fuel...or even 02 sensor if the car is warmed up.
3. Junkyards are your bbest friend...or a cheap donor car.
4. Sounds like SI batteries to me...a common problem. This link should help.


http://www.e30m3performance.com/main...d/SI_Board.htm

Originally Posted by SWISS

Y
If you decide to go to the junkyard and replce the whole gauge cluster you need to take your old one and match it up, some where made by MotorMeter and some by VDO, they are not interchangeable, nor are most of their parts,

I usually don't disagree with Swiss, but I have to here. The clusters (Motormeter and VDO are interchangeable, and the parts (IE. the speedo, the tach, temp and fuel gauges themselves not their individual components). There is only one exception in that the cluster components made pre 6/86 aren't compatible in post 6/86 clusters, and vice versa. So for instance, if you have a bad speedo in your Motormeter cluster, and get a VDO speedo it should work.

Originally Posted by lordofthewaters

I usually don't disagree with Swiss, but I have to here. The clusters (Motormeter and VDO are interchangeable, and the parts (IE. the speedo, the tach, temp and fuel gauges themselves not their individual components). There is only one exception in that the cluster components made pre 6/86 aren't compatible in post 6/86 clusters, and vice versa. So for instance, if you have a bad speedo in your Motormeter cluster, and get a VDO speedo it should work.

I'm not an expert on these but from what I have gathered over the years is there is some cross compatibility between the 2(or more) clusters BMW used in the variations of E30's, I do know the later clusters with exception of the M3 were used on all models with just with different code plugs. Only the 88 super eta got a different tach face. As far as pre 88's I dunno. In my 87 eta I pulled a cluster from an 85 and it worked, but didn't have led's on the SI lights and my old cluster ( both VDO) had a smaller socket on the pin out for the SI batteries than the used cluster I picked up. I do recommend picking up some Ni Cad batteries from Radio Shack, Charging them, and soldering those in where the old ones were. Have fun getting the tabs off and soldering them on the new batteries though..it's a b1tch.

I was referring more to the components interchangeability. Say a VDO speedo and/or tach in a Motormeter cluster. Of course The entire clusters are usually interchangeable. sometimes weird things happen though......

I agree about the batteries.

You guys are good. Seriously.
I'm afraid that the more that I work on this car, the more dear to me she'll get. It'll turn from a hobby into, dare I say it?, a commitment. Oh well, I was once in love with a '64 Fairlane, so it could be worse. The center support came with the shaft, so that's covered. I thought that I might have to get a Dynaplate for it anyway, just hoping I don't. As to the dash, I'll open it and replace bulbs first, but I've read posts describing the replacement of the gearing in the Speedo/Odo. It doesn't sound tasty, but it does sound possible. Only trouble is the parts.
I live in a small, dying city. When I was 16, several hundred years ago, I went to Feuer Brothers here (Springfield, IL) and asked for a brake master cylinder rebuilding kit for a 63 Plymouth Belvedere wagon with a pushbutton transmission. Mr. Feuer turned to his clipboard and asked "Single piston or dual?" I said I didn't know. He said "Son, go home and take it apart, then come back." I did and, having proved that I wasn't a moron, he was willing to sell me the kit. Conversely, last year I went to a local junkyard with another daughter's old Honda Accord. I had called first, but was told they wouldn't check for parts unless I was there in person. Okay, I take a half day from work and drive there. I tell them that I need a wheel that fits an older Honda Accord. Guy tells me, without turning around, "We don't have anything like that." There's no way the the local yards are going to help me on this unless I marry the guy's sister. But she has too few teeth so I'm stuck with the net and expert advice from this forum.
My plan is to open the dash and see if any visible problem presents itself. When it doesn't, I'll note every detail of what I see in there and come back on here to find out what system of gears/cables I need to search out to get the odo working again.
Again, thanks.

There's no way the the local yards are going to help me on this unless I marry the guy's sister. But she has too few teeth so I'm stuck with the net and expert advice from this forum

good choice

Originally Posted by Northsea

You guys are good. Seriously.
I'm afraid that the more that I work on this car, the more dear to me she'll get. It'll turn from a hobby into, dare I say it?, a commitment. Oh well, I was once in love with a '64 Fairlane, so it could be worse. The center support came with the shaft, so that's covered. I thought that I might have to get a Dynaplate for it anyway, just hoping I don't. As to the dash, I'll open it and replace bulbs first, but I've read posts describing the replacement of the gearing in the Speedo/Odo. It doesn't sound tasty, but it does sound possible. Only trouble is the parts.
I live in a small, dying city. When I was 16, several hundred years ago, I went to Feuer Brothers here (Springfield, IL) and asked for a brake master cylinder rebuilding kit for a 63 Plymouth Belvedere wagon with a pushbutton transmission. Mr. Feuer turned to his clipboard and asked "Single piston or dual?" I said I didn't know. He said "Son, go home and take it apart, then come back." I did and, having proved that I wasn't a moron, he was willing to sell me the kit. Conversely, last year I went to a local junkyard with another daughter's old Honda Accord. I had called first, but was told they wouldn't check for parts unless I was there in person. Okay, I take a half day from work and drive there. I tell them that I need a wheel that fits an older Honda Accord. Guy tells me, without turning around, "We don't have anything like that." There's no way the the local yards are going to help me on this unless I marry the guy's sister. But she has too few teeth so I'm stuck with the net and expert advice from this forum.
My plan is to open the dash and see if any visible problem presents itself. When it doesn't, I'll note every detail of what I see in there and come back on here to find out what system of gears/cables I need to search out to get the odo working again.
Again, thanks.

Shannon AKA Bimrpwr is not far from IL in IA, maybe he can source you a complete cluster and ship it. Best place to get the bulbs is at the dealer, usually they run about $5 or so.




Oh and BTW, just so my fest brethren don't get the impression I have gone soft,



PICS OF DAUGHTER UR BAN!!!!

Originally Posted by SWISS

Oh and BTW, just so my fest brethren don't get the impression I have gone soft,



PICS OF DAUGHTER UR BAN!!!!

They require alot of love. But once you catch up with the car and stay caught up, they can be very easy to maintain. Of course, there are horror stories... I've heard the worst thing for the motor is to lose a timing belt. My experience as a recent college student was very easy to maintain my 88 325is, on a college budget. The Bentley manual is a good starting point for maintenance and repair. Good Luck!

I Could be wrong but if you are swapping out the entire cluster, the thing you need to look out for is the fuel gauge. Some cars have dual senders, some single and the gauges are different also. Well, thats how they are in the UK anyway....

Wow - you guys are good!

I have a related question on clusters: can I purchase and install just the temperature gage, rather than replacing the whole cluster?

Thanks!

Newest stumper. I'm getting the Bentley manual (thanks 88E30KS) but meanwhile, I just changed the oil on the 88 325is. The previous owner had apparently stripped the drain bolt hole and shoved in a rubber shield with a threaded rod and one of those wing jobbies that you use as hollow wall anchors to hold it. Finally got that all out and an oversized bolt in, but I found a tiny oil leak up top. Above the drain plug, just above the oil pan, is some sort of sensor with a single wire coming out. A bit of oil is seeping out onto the wire. Problem is, I don't know what the sensor is that clearly needs fixing. Ideas?

Originally Posted by Northsea

Newest stumper. I'm getting the Bentley manual (thanks 88E30KS) but meanwhile, I just changed the oil on the 88 325is. The previous owner had apparently stripped the drain bolt hole and shoved in a rubber shield with a threaded rod and one of those wing jobbies that you use as hollow wall anchors to hold it. Finally got that all out and an oversized bolt in, but I found a tiny oil leak up top. Above the drain plug, just above the oil pan, is some sort of sensor with a single wire coming out. A bit of oil is seeping out onto the wire. Problem is, I don't know what the sensor is that clearly needs fixing. Ideas?

Been there done that myself, called it my "mystery leak" when I had the old engine in mine. Just replace the oil pressure sensor, like $5 at Autozone.

Originally Posted by SWISS

Been there done that myself, called it my "mystery leak" when I had the old engine in mine. Just replace the oil pressure sensor, like $5 at Autozone.

I'm just curious, isn't that where the o2 sensor is, or am I way off?

Waaaay off. O2 sensor is in the exhaust.

Originally Posted by Nathan - Canada

Wow - you guys are good!

I have a related question on clusters: can I purchase and install just the temperature gage, rather than replacing the whole cluster?

Thanks!

Yes, but if the problem is with the cluster's circuit board, the sensor, or the wiring it won't help. I've got a good one here somewhere as a metter of fact, make me an offer.

Originally Posted by SWISS

Been there done that myself, called it my "mystery leak" when I had the old engine in mine. Just replace the oil pressure sensor, like $5 at Autozone.

+1

If you need a cluster, let me know since I'm in Illinois also and can get one cheap from the pick and pull and send to you.