E39 Faq

Cup holders in your E39 in 10 min. less than $5.


I hear everyone whine about the lack of functional cup holders in their cars. About a week after I acquired my E39, I solved this problem for less than $10 in about ten minutes.

Step 1. Go to your local Wal-Mart and buy a set of Bell cup holders. They come in a package of four and cost less than $5 (on sale they're less than $2). They also come in several colors so you may be able to match your interior Mine is grey so I bought grey.





Step 2. Break off the little tab that turns down on the end of two of the cup holders. SEE BELOW.





Step 3. Slip the end of the remaining tab into the seam along side the center console in front of each front seat.





You now have very serviceable cup holders in your E39. They will even hold a Big Gulp! And if they do ever spill (mine never have) it will be in the floor.






OPTION: Take the remaining two cup holders (without the tabs broken), lift the rear seat cushion slightly, slip in the tab and snap the seat back down. You will now have an E39 with cup holders both front and back.






I'm tired of hearing about people complain about something that is so trivial and can be solved with just a little bit of ingenuity. It is a great car and I'm more interested in driving than drinking. But once in a while you do need a sip of water.

/wej

Originally Posted by chiefwej

Cup holders in your E39 in 10 min. less than $5.

[B]
I hear everyone whine about the lack of functional cup holders in their cars. About a week after I acquired my E39, I solved this problem for less than $10 in about ten minutes.

Step 1. Go to your local Wal-Mart and buy a set of Bell cup holders. They come in a package of four and cost less than $5 (on sale they're less than $2). They also come in several colors so you may be able to match your interior Mine is grey so I bought grey.

Man did you save me a bunch of time, and for figuring out how to do the back. No lie - I have a pack of 4 out in the garage I had bought a few weeks ago for the same purpose . What you did on the front is near what I had planned, but was not sure...

Had figured I could do something on the back, and having had the seat out before, your are right on the money with that one. Thanks for posting the pix.

need a fan removal tool but don't feel like dumping $$$$ and wait for it? Make your own!!!

http://www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/119957

^^^ it's for the M62's motor to change the belts

So watching MotorWeek today, Goss garage brought up a good point and i am guilty of not doing what is suggested by the show.

Apparently you're suppose to change the coolant EVERY fall. that's ONCE A YEAR for those wondering when every fall is.

I have a gut suspicion most of us change the coolant when something goes wrong and the next time we change coolant is the next time something fails. to prevent failure, changing every fall will refresh the coolant.

why is it important to refresh the coolant?

well, one reason is mentioned here:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tech...lant-Flush.htm

What they mentioned is correct however they fail to mention what this does to PLASTIC..

It's important to keep your cooling system at the correct pH as well. Water has a pH of 7 and is considered neutral. Battery acid is highly corrosive and has a pH of about 2-3, whereas baking soda is very alkaline, and has a pH of about 10-11. In general, you want to make sure that your coolant has a pH greater than seven. Any pH less than that will result in an acidic mixture, which will start to corrode your engine. The corrosion inhibitors in additives and antifreeze are added specifically to keep the pH above 7. A properly mixed 50/50 split between water and antifreeze will yield a pH of about 8-9. Over time, the glycol (one of the main components of antifreeze) will break down and degrade, creating acidic compounds. The alkaline corrosion inhibitors must be adequate enough to neutralize these acidic byproducts over the life of the coolant. Minerals in the water, heat, dissolved oxygen, and other factors gradually deplete the coolant of its corrosion inhibitors. Once gone, the mixture will become acidic, and will begin to eat away at your engine.

The pH change in the coolant not only eats away at your motor block but if it does that to your block, think of what happens to your PLASTIC radiator and the water pump!

what is the lesson in this FAQ post???


CHANGE YOUR COOLANT ONCE A YEAR!!! (doesn't have to be fall but the old school thought is so that when winter hits, you're mixture is correct so it doesn't freeze and crack any vital parts)

i am going to practice this and see how long everything lasts.

why you should NEVER EVER....NEVER EVER... EVER GET NISSEN RADIATOR:

http://bimmer.roadfly.com/bmw/forums/e39/8359821-1.html

Yes. With regard to the US, any 540iA not ordered with the sport package came with the 2.81 ratio.

What if the sport package was ordered on a 540iA? In that case, it was not until 9/98 that the package included a 3.15. So no 3.15 on '98 540iA sport models. - Tyrone

from the factory, only the M5 came with LSD and it's a 3.15

I hope to post pics by tomorrow, though I don't have the whole process.

There are a few posts already on other models. The following link helped me figure it out for my 2002 530i E39.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...0&postcount=22

The only thing it doesn't mention is on my particular model, and I'm sure some others out there, I actually found two "horns" or airflow restricters. I am not responsible for what this might do to your car, just like the original poster, but I did this to my car yesterday and so far so good! It seems to have extra kick, even in low end revs, and it didn't cost a thing!

The extra horn I found was after the air filter, on the side where the airbox is connected to the tubing going straight to the engine. If you look carefully (it's much easier to do when you remove the whole airbox), you will/may see another horn that bends down almost at a 90 degree angle which is a separate plastic part that was thrown in. With a little screwdriver prodding, you can pop it right out.

If you already have a CAI (cold air intake), don't worry about it as you obviously would've removed all of this already.

My key remote wasn't working very well any more so I tried a new battery (even though the battery checker said it was okay). And even tried holding it to my head.

But nothing helped. So I decided to take the key apart and clean out the insides. I just used a pencil eraser to clean up the gunk that had accumulated on the contacts on the plastic bubble sheet and on the transmitter unit. Now it works great. Take a look:

Attachment 100386

Attachment 100388

Attachment 100389

Attachment 100390

Attachment 100391

Attachment 100397

Attachment 100394

The interior door handles look like chromed metal but they are only plastic. Pretty strong plastic but still plastic. As I found out when mine broke off in my hand.

The part is pretty cheap. I got mine from the dealer for $30 Canadian. You'll be replacing the lever and the surround.

Attachment 100378

The first thing to do is to hook the hook from the cable onto the eyelet from the handle. It's easiest to slip the handle into the hole in the door and rotate it a little to line everything up. After that it's just a matter of positioning the handle in the cutout and slotting the cable into the guide on the door handle assembly.

There's no magic to this part. You just line everything up as good as you can looking through a gap and then tugging the assembly to the right, away from the trailing edge of the door.

It's a tight fit and it requires some muscle but that's all there is to it.

Believe it or not, Autozone's Online is great to get part #'s for what you need and the price is pretty good too.

www.autozone.com

ie:
i needed pre-cat O2's:
Oxygen Sensor $0.00 $61.99 2 $123.98
Brand: Bosch
Part Number: 13559
Application: Sensor located before catalytic converter

and free Fed-Ex ground shipping..

after taxes: $132.66


if you're going with a STOCK flywheel:
Luk / Flywheel
Manual Transmission
Warranty - 1 YR
DMF020
$383.99
^^ Special Order Item



So if you're looking for some OEM parts, shop around, of course, but do check with Autozone. they are everywhere and they can even special deliever the part to your local Autozone for pick up! They may not always have the best prices but it doesn't hurt to check

If your Auxiliary fan isn't working and needs to be replaced.

Follow this DIY
http://bimmerfest.com/forums/showthr...=1#post2374950

This post is for my ICV cleaning istruction for 97 528i "better picture than any other place I've seen..."
http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=203883

Chivas... you can remove this post if it's incorrect

People frequently have bizarre ideas about how much maintenance of an older BMW will cost. Well, edmunds.com now has a maintenance schedule and costs for most cars.

This is not E39 specific, but it's a valuable resource nonetheless:

edmunds maintenance calculator

Use and enjoy.

just a FYI,

the holes under the rear deck is 80.5mm; i measured it with a dial caliper just now and if you want to use that to port any sound, make sure it's 80mm or less.. but not much. you got 2 of them anyways.

Many of us suffer from the "Check Brake Light" after changing out the small brake light bulbs in the Celis Taillights. After some research and testing, it is due to the current of the replacement bulbs.

If the replacement bulb has an amperage that is too low it will yield "Check Brake Light" just about everytime you start and shut off the car.

If the replacement bulb has an amperage that is too high it will yield "Check Brake Light", "Check Fog Lamps", "Check High Beam".

Replace bulb with sylvania 917 bulbs to resolve problem. The bulbs has an amperage of 1.2 and it will comply with LCM expectations.

want to add paddle shifting to your auto-tragic tranny??

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...threadid=63211

There's already a link to this but might as well have it right here in front of you.

Attachment 89039
So the switch for the power seat snapped off and I figured it was going to be a "cheap" fix with a new plastic stud from BMW. Well no, the little plastic stud is part of the whole switching control box and costs a bundle.

I tried to glue it back together but it was like building a ship inside a bottle so I decided to open'er'up and try to do a better fix.

First thing, remove the switch covers. They pull straight out. Don't twist!

You'll have to take the side trim panel of the seat off. This photo is looking from the driver's footwell. You need to pop out a plastic clip (that took a lot more force than I thought!) and undo a torx screw. There's another plastic clip on the back of the seat but it's possible to access everything without having to pop that one out.
Attachment 89040

The switching control box is clipped to the trim panel and is plugged into the actuators.
Attachment 89041

Disconnect the plug and unclip the control box.
Attachment 89042

And this is what it looks like. I took the picture after I fixed it so both studs are complete.
Attachment 89043

Attachment 89044

This is the toughest part of the job. To open the box up you have to flip open all 8 plastic clips simultaneously and pry the box open. Thankfully there's no glue. I used bits of cut up plastic to hold each clip open and then used a thin screwdriver to pry the box open.
Attachment 89045

Attachment 89046

After you have the cover off you still have to pry up the clips on the brass plate to expose the studs.
Attachment 89047

Backside.
Attachment 89048

Backside without brass plate.
Attachment 89049

This is what everything looks like taken apart.
Attachment 89050

Then it's a simple matter of using some crazy glue and fixing the broken stud.
Attachment 89051

I got a little cocky and though I would reinforce the stud by filling it up with urethane sealant.
Attachment 89052
Big mistake! The stud has to be hollow to fit back together. Thank god for Dremel tools.

Reassembly is a two minute job. Much much easier than the disassembly.

I used a dab of vasoline on the plastic to plastic parts to reduce friction and hopefully lesson any stress on those studs. I also switched the two studs (which are identical) so the repaired stud is on the less often used backrest adjustment.

Oh and one more thing. Your seat won't move if the control box is out, the seat memory buttons won't work. So either make sure your seat is in its proper position or plan not to use your car until the job is finished. It should only take a half hour or so plus the time it takes for the glue to dry.

Good luck!

Thanks Chiefwej,

I use your idea but guess what? I wedge it in the armrest (aka phone craddle).
99% of the time I am the only driver.
Once in a while, there are kids in the rea so it is very useful.

The key thing is use asmall piece of cradboard or paper to wedge it in the arm rest. See the pics.

HTH someone looking for a cheap solution for the REAR cup holder.

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=239968

per request of chivas =).

Since I didn't see real pics of the barrier and the leak-allowing holes, I thought I'd share this one for anyone about to tackle this job:

Originally Posted by BHL528i

domiguy
I just got a 1999 528i but didn’t come with a manual.

i bought a 2000 528 with no manual. if you go to BMW website you can download a copy of it.

I think i have solved the nebulus M5 -> 540 diff question


the following flanges will work to keep your 540 half shafts while using M5 diff..

E28: Details on E28
E28 M5 SEDAN


E31: Details on E31
E31 840Ci COUPE
E31 840i COUPE
E31 850Ci COUPE


E32: Details on E32
E32 740i SEDAN
E32 740iL SEDAN
E32 750iL SEDAN


E34: Details on E34
E34 540i SEDAN


E38: Details on E38
E38 740i SEDAN
E38 740iL SEDAN

since we know the E32 750's work, the part # is used on other models.


Part #:
331 312 140 87 x2 <-- flange
331 412 064 39 x2 <-- lock ring

E39 STOCK RIDE HEIGHT (Taken for BMW webTIS...argue over it if you want) Only shows wheels up to 18".

Ride level in NORMAL POSITION (attach tape measure to rim flange at bottom middle and measure to lower edge of wheel arch)

Deviation from nominal value for all wheels together MAX MM. 10

Series
15" mm +or- 10 (579)
16" mm +or- 10 (592)
17" mm +or- 10 (607)
18" mm +or- 10 (620)

Low-Slung sports suspension
15" mm +or- 10 (559)
16" mm +or- 10 (572)
17" mm +or- 10 (587)
18" mm +or- 10 (600)

Rough road package
15" mm +or- 10 (599)
16" mm +or- 10 (612)
17" mm +or- 10 (627)
18" mm +or- 10 (640)

M-Sport suspension
15" mm +or- 10 (562)
16" mm +or- 10 (575)
17" mm +or- 10 (590)
18" mm +or- 10 (603)

Originally Posted by all_parts_euro

E39 STOCK RIDE HEIGHT (Taken for BMW webTIS...argue over it if you want) Only shows wheels up to 18".

Ride level in NORMAL POSITION (attach tape measure to rim flange at bottom middle and measure to lower edge of wheel arch)

Deviation from nominal value for all wheels together MAX MM. 10

Series
15" mm +or- 10 (579)
16" mm +or- 10 (592)
17" mm +or- 10 (607)
18" mm +or- 10 (620)

Low-Slung sports suspension
15" mm +or- 10 (559)
16" mm +or- 10 (572)
17" mm +or- 10 (587)
18" mm +or- 10 (600)

Rough road package
15" mm +or- 10 (599)
16" mm +or- 10 (612)
17" mm +or- 10 (627)
18" mm +or- 10 (640)

M-Sport suspension
15" mm +or- 10 (562)
16" mm +or- 10 (575)
17" mm +or- 10 (590)
18" mm +or- 10 (603)

Additional info related to suspension height.

http://bmwdiy.info/suspension-survey/index.html