E36 M3 Common Maintenance Issues (Reference)

I get a brake light circuit failure that shows up on the comp randomly and then goes away. I've checked the brake light and it works. I've also checked the fuse but it is not that either. Should I just leave it be until the message stays on or until the brake lights stop working?

Originally Posted by rwg

9) The undercariage panel seems to routinely fall off (and can be replaced with an aftermarket metal piece that stays)

Anyone think of anything else?

Where can we get these 'metal pieces'?

I cured the brake light circuit failure by replacing the brake switch.

Originally Posted by paulmurphyhomes

Where can we get these 'metal pieces'?

JT Designs:
http://www.jt-designs.com/

Jim

coolant light goes on computer screen even after replaced several times

Originally Posted by coolguyat1b

I get a brake light circuit failure that shows up on the comp randomly and then goes away. I've checked the brake light and it works. I've also checked the fuse but it is not that either. Should I just leave it be until the message stays on or until the brake lights stop working?

This happened to me a few months back, seems like it's pretty common on our cars. Replace the brake light switch located directly above the brake pedal arm (use lots of lighting and prepare to work in a tight space, on your back).

Here's a pretty good link covering the procedure involved:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tech...ake_Switch.htm

Cheers,

Hi,

One of the plastic front headlight washer jets has fallen off. The replacement one won't stay on properly. To cap it all, the headlight washers have sprung a leak behind the front bumper and between the washer bottle reservoir.

How do I get behind the front washer jets to access the spline which the nozzles fit onto?

Do I have to remove the front bumper to access the hoses and connectors? if I do, how do I go about removing the front bumper of my E36 M3.

Any help greatly appreciated.

Originally Posted by JST

Not that I know of. I'm just going from the experiences of you and TD.

HYA MATE MY CAR SEEMS TO BE HAVIN THE SAME PROBLUM AS URS ITS DIFICULT TO GT INTO GEAR ONCE ITS WARM... DID U MANAGE TO SORT URS OUT??

Originally Posted by rwg

There is a TSB for the shifting difficulty. If your car has difficulty getting into gear after it warms up, they will replace some pins and seals in the transmission. Apparently, the pins would catch on something and prevent you from going into gear. However, this is sort of like a catch - if you just have notchy gates, getting the TSB repair might not help.

Also, when I had it done, the TSB was not in the dealer's computer. Brecht seems to go the extra mile - they called BMW's helpline, found out about it, and had it faxed to them.

WATS THE ISSUE WITH GEARS NT SHIFTING AS MINE IS ALSO DOIN IT WEN ITS WARN???

dont forget about your micro filters. 20 bucks and 1 hour of work if you do it yourself for the first time. lets more air in through air coditioning and heating vents.

about the brake light circut. you can wait till it goes out or replace it now. its located underneath your brake pedal way high and its this plastic switch that is a pain to get out . i got it and had a bmw guy put it in.

Originally Posted by coolguyat1b

I get a brake light circuit failure that shows up on the comp randomly and then goes away. I've checked the brake light and it works. I've also checked the fuse but it is not that either. Should I just leave it be until the message stays on or until the brake lights stop working?

[QUOTE=Kyle Jacox;2766238]about the brake light circut. you can wait till it goes out or replace it now. its located underneath your brake pedal way high and its this plastic switch that is a pain to get out . I got the piece and had a bmw guy put it in professionally.

Hi, I have a problem with my SMG transmission, when in sequential mode the hazard lights come on. Internally only, I think. Still shifts fine, I do back it off when it happens. Doesn't happen in auto modes that I've noticed. Is this a fault signal? Or dodgy wiring?

First time bmw owner..... Thanx

The head linner fails on all 3 series, the door panels come apart. gas door security catch is plastic, rear lites have problems. But come on man all this is light weight stuff. The car is solid the motor can't be beat, it's a sound investement, money wise...wk...And a really fun car to drive, that's fast and powerful, you can get it in 3'rd gear under 20mph...

wow, 5 year thread

Hey Biimer guys. I just bought a '97 Dinan M3. Got a good deal, cleaned the airfilter parts out of the MAFS and now it runs fine.
Can anybody tell me how loud the Dinan supercharger is supposed to be? I can't tell if the whistle is from air moving or parts squeeking. This is the first Dinan I've had or ever been around.

Hi, I'm looking at buying a 98 M3, but this thread is making me lean towards an e46 330. Do all of the problems in this thread apply to models of later model years? Also is there anything you guys would look out for in particular on one with 70k miles? Thanks!

Originally Posted by TerraPhantm

Hi, I'm looking at buying a 98 M3, but this thread is making me lean towards an e46 330. Do all of the problems in this thread apply to models of later model years? Also is there anything you guys would look out for in particular on one with 70k miles? Thanks!

I guess that depends (E36M3 vs E46330) on what you're looking for from the car. Having driven both, extensively, I will say that the M3 is a much more engaging car to drive and the 330 is a much nicer car to drive. Both are fast/powerful enough to get you into trouble if you're not careful, but the M3 (stock for stock) turns and stops better than the 330 - if the shocks are still good and the bushings are intact.

At 70k miles, things begin to fail on all E36s - Check this list to see what to look for - I haven't looked through this thread in a while, so I'm not sure what's been covered and what hasn't.

I will say one thing, though, if the car has overheated, stay away. There is a likelihood that the headgasket is blown, which is a $2k job for a good independent mechanic, which isn't an absurd charge for a car as fun as the M3. What *can* happen with that, though, is a warped or cracked head, which means a full rebuild, which can cost upwards of $2k ALSO, including the cost of a used head.

That said, if the car checks out (M3) well from a pre-purchase inspection from a good independent mechanic, and you take care of hazards that (s)he may find, the car can serve you well for a long time. I know two people with almost 200,000 miles on their E36 M3s and know of several more with over 200k.

With the E46 you get a more modern build, an equally reliable engine and similar issues with the car as a whole as you'll find in the link above. If the cost to just get into the car (sale price) is close enough, the E46 might be a better option, simply because of the newness of the car.

Good luck

I drove one today and... wow, I can't believe what it's like to drive these things. Unfortunately, there was enough iffy about the car (like paint being slightly different colors on different body panels) to make me walk away. The potential E36 issues still might be worth it for a car that drives like this, I'm really leaning towards this instead of an E46 330 now. Of course I'm experiencing the problems w/ test driving a BMW; I can't stop thinking about the car!

After filling my washer fluid up..it lost almost all pressure. Help!

sounds like some kind of clog, maybe sediment or something similar... this is especially possible if you ever let the reservoir go completely dry. There are mineral deposits on the inside of the reservoir that can flake off if it stays dry for too long. These can clog the outlet line going to the washer pump.

Originally Posted by ffej

I guess that depends (E36M3 vs E46330) on what you're looking for from the car. Having driven both, extensively, I will say that the M3 is a much more engaging car to drive and the 330 is a much nicer car to drive. Both are fast/powerful enough to get you into trouble if you're not careful, but the M3 (stock for stock) turns and stops better than the 330 - if the shocks are still good and the bushings are intact.

At 70k miles, things begin to fail on all E36s - Check this list to see what to look for - I haven't looked through this thread in a while, so I'm not sure what's been covered and what hasn't.

I will say one thing, though, if the car has overheated, stay away. There is a likelihood that the headgasket is blown, which is a $2k job for a good independent mechanic, which isn't an absurd charge for a car as fun as the M3. What *can* happen with that, though, is a warped or cracked head, which means a full rebuild, which can cost upwards of $2k ALSO, including the cost of a used head.

That said, if the car checks out (M3) well from a pre-purchase inspection from a good independent mechanic, and you take care of hazards that (s)he may find, the car can serve you well for a long time. I know two people with almost 200,000 miles on their E36 M3s and know of several more with over 200k.

With the E46 you get a more modern build, an equally reliable engine and similar issues with the car as a whole as you'll find in the link above. If the cost to just get into the car (sale price) is close enough, the E46 might be a better option, simply because of the newness of the car.

Good luck

This is perfect for those of use looking to buy our first E36M3. Thank you!

Like other posts here, I was getting turned off of the purchase, given that I plan to track it and can't tell a water pump from an ice cream scooper. But, screw it! Gotta learn sometime.

If anyone has a good BMW mechanic in the Los Angeles area, please post. 1st post BTW; you guys know so much good sh**!

About the nut that people recommend tack welding...how hard is this to get to? Is this a good DIY, or is someone like me with an average/below average knowledge of internals getting in over their head?

Hi. I'm looking to re-enter the bimmer world with an 1999 E36/M3! I am concerned about the issues sited here, but feel like the car over all will be FUN to drive, and worth the few common issues. It seems that some of these are common to other bimmer models as well. Thanks for the thread. A list of maintenance items to perform at 110 and 120k miles, etc. would be GREAT! The car I'm looking at has 112k.... I'm READY to drive!

Idrive330i and Terraphantm, i recommend go for the M3, I have just purchased a 97 Eurospec M3, it is awesome, I love it, the "M" badge and all that comes with it makes it an awesome experience every time I drive it! My advice is to get any car thoroughly checked by a qualified mechanic before buying, he should be able to identify through suspension and brake wear etc if it's been thrashed. If it does not have a documented service history (particularly for high mileage cars) walk away, these are high performance engines that need regular oil and coolant changes with top shelf products. Make sure the coolant is clean, if the coolant is clean but the bottle is dirty you will be asking for trouble.
It's only early days but the only issue with my car is the engine oil temp gauge is not working. The clutch was replaced and the Vanos was rebuilt at 150,000kms. It's a gem!
Be patient and wait for the right car (I searched for 8 months with plenty of lemons out there), the "M" experience is worth it.

Good luck!