Techniques for putting E39 on Jack Stands

I'd love to do more work on my car, but it bugs the craps out of me how hard it is to jack the thing up with the limited number of jack points.

Does anyone have a method that can be used to get all 4 wheels up on jack stands at the same time?

Thanks

i dont think thats possible with any car, you can do front two then the rear two. I can get the car on jack stands in about 90 seconds.

jack up front cross member, two jacks, jack up rear diff, two jacks. Done.

E39 has 4 jackpoints, 2 on each side with rubber stops. What's the issue?

Originally Posted by Mack

E39 has 4 jackpoints, 2 on each side with rubber stops. What's the issue?

5 official jackpoints (4 lateral + 1 under engine).
The 6th is your rear differential. Pay attention to that one though - wrap a thick cloth underneath.

Technique:
Pull the handbrake firmly.
Jack up front of the car (under the engine)
Post stands in front (2 lateral)
Jack up the rear (under differential)
Place the next 2 stands at the rear. Done.

Lowering is the reverse. Make sure you lower the rear first. There are no brakes on the front wheels.

Do the work at your own risk. Make sure your jack is a heavy duty and the stands are good for about 2 - 2.5 tons each.
Do not cinder blocks, wood stomps etc.

Good luck

P.S. I forgot to mention to use the wheel chocks for an added safety factor (which you have 1 in the trunk)
For easy lifting (front) i did build 2 ramps out of 2 x 4's

Originally Posted by doru

5 official jackpoints (4 lateral + 1 under engine).
The 6th is your rear differential. Pay attention to that one though - wrap a thick cloth underneath.

Technique:
Pull the handbrake firmly.
Jack up front of the car (under the engine)
Post stands in front (2 lateral)
Jack up the rear (under differential)
Place the next 2 stands at the rear. Done.

Lowering is the reverse. Make sure you lower the rear first. There are no brakes on the front wheels.

Do the work at your own risk. Make sure your jack is a heavy duty and the stands are good for about 2 - 2.5 tons each.
Do not cinder blocks, wood stomps etc.

Good luck

P.S. I forgot to mention to use the wheel chocks for an added safety factor (which you have 1 in the trunk)
For easy lifting (front) i did build 2 ramps out of 2 x 4's

Now that's detail! Very nice my friend.

I use Bottle Jack Stand ($33 at Harbor Freight):
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=99953

The beauty of this Bottle Jackstand is that it can be adjusted to any height to fit your need.
Plus it is rated at 5 tons. Just twist it to adjust to any height.

The standard jackstand has larger increments (up and down) and can be difficult to use.

PS: Yes doru, for easy thing like oil changes, I use wood ramp (3 layers of 2 x 10 lumber....have been using them for 15 years...)

Also these are jack points for E36 and E39.

You can also jack under the Rear Diff but read a bit before doing it.

I hope you didn't roll your car over just to take that photo for me?


"Technique:
Pull the handbrake firmly.
Jack up front of the car (under the engine)
Post stands in front (2 lateral)
Jack up the rear (under differential)
Place the next 2 stands at the rear. Done."

In order to get my jack under the front mount point, I first have to jack up one side with the cheapie BMW jack in order to get (barely) enough clearance to fit my jack under the front mount point and give it room to 'pump'. That jack will then lift the car BARELY high enough to put a jack stand under each front wheel (at the lowest height).

Maybe I just need a better jack. One that a) needs less clearance to start jacking up, and b) can jack higher. Does such a beast exist?

Note, that you can also buy ramps at Walmart or Auto Zone.

I back the car up on the ramps, then lift the front from the engine pad, and set the front up on jack stands.

Tire Rack has a good deal on a jack and jack stands:
http://www.tirerack.com/accessories/detail.jsp?ID=68

Jason

In order for me to get my decent quality floor jack under the center- front mount point it is necessary to place a couple short pieces of 2 x 12s (lumber scrap) just behind the front wheels, then back up onto them (so your front tires are on top of the 1.5 inch thick boards)...then set the parking brake, slide the floor jack in from the front, and jack it up...just don't forget to have those boards in place when you let the car down again...or it might be difficult to remove the jack...

Originally Posted by mosearch

it is necessary to place a couple short pieces of 2 x 12s (lumber scrap) just behind the front wheels, then back up onto them

Here's how I did it for my 4-wheel brake job ...

0. Set ramps in front; jack stands to the side; chocks to the rear ...
1. Drive up onto ramps; set parking brake & transmission; remove chocks ...
2. Floor jack rear differential; set 2 jack stands on the 2 rear jack pads ...
3. Floor jack front crossmember pad; set 2 jack stands on 2 front jack pads ...
4. Lower floor jack just enough to be a friction fit (for added safety) ...
5. MOST IMPORTANT STEP: Rock car like there's a freight train rollin' thru ...
6. If car remains rock steady ... crawl underneath & do your BMW DIY magic!

Originally Posted by cn90

Also these are jack points for E36 and E39.

You can also jack under the Rear Diff but read a bit before doing it.

Where is the jacking point under the engine?

Originally Posted by cn90

Also these are jack points for E36 and E39.

You can also jack under the Rear Diff but read a bit before doing it.

That is the most hilarious thing I have seen in weeks! Awesome! BTW those bottle stands don't look very stable. No thank you. I'll keep my old tried and true jackstands. Great post as always bluebee!

Bottle jacks are for buildings, not cars...I am not saying they'll necessarily kill you...but I would not use them on anything with wheels...

Originally Posted by Jason5driver

Note, that you can also buy ramps at Walmart or Auto Zone.

I back the car up on the ramps, then lift the front from the engine pad, and set the front up on jack stands.

Tire Rack has a good deal on a jack and jack stands:
http://www.tirerack.com/accessories/detail.jsp?ID=68

Jason

LOL $219 for a jack and 2 stands? I got a 2 ton Jack and 2 stands at pep boys for $29.99.

So for an oil change I should just jack up the front?

Couldn't I just drive the front onto ramps?

Originally Posted by andyffer

So for an oil change I should just jack up the front?

Couldn't I just drive the front onto ramps?

yes the jackstands are for other types of work. Like doing brakes and such. Ramps work great for oil changes.

Originally Posted by Mack

LOL $219 for a jack and 2 stands? I got a 2 ton Jack and 2 stands at pep boys for $29.99.

Right, I have the same thing from Auto Zone.
Cheap crap, IMO!

The Tire Rack jack looks to be made by Torin, which IMO is good stuff, and blows away the cheapy Auto Zone jacks...

Jason

With the metal ramps, doesn't the front spoiler hit prior to the wheels actually traveling up the ramp? (I have a 540 M Sport..sits pretty low with the 18" wheels and 35 profile tires).....also, with metal ramps, they always seem to slide on you as you try to drive up on them. I can see how the wooden ramps would work....I don't think they would slide as long as you made them long "enough"...how long did you make the longest 2x10 (or 2x12)?

BMW states that you should not jack the rear up via the differential. Why, it did not explain. SO doing so is at your own risk. I jack up each rear side via the jack pads. Pain in the neck with one floor jack but I'm not going to 2'nd guess why BMW states not to jack on the diff.

Originally Posted by Mack

That is the most hilarious thing I have seen in weeks! Awesome! BTW those bottle stands don't look very stable. No thank you. I'll keep my old tried and true jackstands. Great post as always bluebee!

Mack,

These bottle jackstands are actually very good. Actually these bottle jacks are expensive: $33 for each.
A pair of 4-leg jackstands cost $20/pair.
But you are correct, I don't crawl underneath with bottle jackstands. I always use the Bottle jack with my old-fashioned 4-leg jackstand.

What the bottle jackstand is good for is "quick and dirty" way of doing things.

For ex, for quick job that does not require crawling underneath car:
- Brake Job
- Front suspension works
- Tire change
etc.
1. Jack the car using standard jack.
2. Slide the bottle jackstand underneath.
3. Lower the jack a bit so the car weight now rests on BOTH jack and bottle jackstand.
Double insurance.
4. Do the brake job (brake job does not require to crawl underneath car).
5. Removal is also quick.

Originally Posted by yoshi900

Where is the jacking point under the engine?

For my 2002 E39, there's a hard rubber block on the crossmember under the engine for the front center floor jacking point.
For others, it's the same location, but the block is various materials and locations and shapes (some might not even have the block).
Here's a thread on BMW jacking points, for example, on a BMW 528i.
Notice this post says BMW 540s have the same front-center jacking point but without the rubber pad.

With or without the rubber block, we all agree on the center of the front crossmember for the front jack point.

BLACK540eye:
As far as the length of the 2x10 shim boards: about 24" should do it, but if you were very precise in your backing up you could probably get away with about 6 inches... or whatever the contact patch length or your tires is...'cause all they are doing is raising the front of your car up an extra 1.5" so you can slide the jack under...they are not part of holding the car up when you crawl under it. It's the same concept as the ramp approach mentioned in this thread, just a little more subtle, and you won't have that spoiler issue.

Originally Posted by black540eye

With the metal ramps, doesn't the front spoiler hit prior to the wheels actually traveling up the ramp? (I have a 540 M Sport..sits pretty low with the 18" wheels and 35 profile tires).....also, with metal ramps, they always seem to slide on you as you try to drive up on them. I can see how the wooden ramps would work....I don't think they would slide as long as you made them long "enough"...how long did you make the longest 2x10 (or 2x12)?

black540eye,

Instead of jackstand, the other option is Home-Made Wood Ramp using 2 x10 Lumber.
See pic. The wood ramps are:

1. Sturdy.

2. Very smooth for the car to climb up (any car that I have owned, from my 98 Volvo V70 to my 2007 Honda Odyssey van):

3. Easy to make: using left-over Lumber at construction job site.
(or about $10 Lumber cost at hardware store).

4. Easy to use, just drive the car up. No need to jack up the car with jackstand.
Make sure you do not go over the "cliff"....LOL
Also: Apply E-brake + block the Rear Wheel with a brick.

I have been using wood ramps for 20 years changing oil, checking undercarriage, flush trans, flush rear diff fluid, bleeding brake etc. Very nice to use it: just drive up and down, saving alot of time jacking the car up and down.

For the most parts with routine maintenance mentioned above, wood ramps make your life very easy.

Of course the jackstand has it own use (suspension works, brake work).

Thanks CN90!....the picture is exactly what I was looking for. Appreciate it.