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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > Z Series > E36 /7 Z3 (1996-2002)

E36 /7 Z3 (1996-2002)
E36/7 Z3 roadster and coupe talk with our gurus here.

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  #26  
Old 03-07-2009, 12:46 PM
Buddy L Buddy L is offline
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Location: Fort Worth, Texas
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 88
Mein Auto: 2003 Z4, 2000 F350
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaskispyder View Post
Ah.... I get it.

BuddyL do you just remove this panel when you want to jack up your '03 Z4? Or did you modify the panel? If so, how did you modify it?

Thanks!

I did not modify the reinforcement plate. My intent was to use a "metal cut" hole saw, and use the circular jack pad for the Z3 (the mount pad will screw into the receiver under the plate, similar to the Z3-I think). My hope is that I do not spend much time under the front end, but if I must, the mod will be completed. A dealership here suggested jacking at the point on the front of the plate, and accepting the fact it will be crushed. Can't bring myself to do that.

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  #27  
Old 04-06-2009, 02:58 PM
Ron Stygar's Avatar
Ron Stygar Ron Stygar is offline
19,585 Miles
Location: CT
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 11,143
Mein Auto: Z4 M Coupe 6LL93033
Quote:
Originally Posted by Buddy L View Post
Take it to 59Nm jointing torque, then hit it with a 90 deg torque turn. The key is to take it to a plastic fail level because the above plate traverses the crumple zone, and if it doesn't fail, it transfers impact force elsewhere.
Purchased some class 10 nuts with the stock 10.9 bolt.

Bolt one 1.731" , with 59 Nm 1.731" , After 90 degrees 1.741" = +0.010" longer.

Bolt two 1.727" , with 59 Nm 1.727" , After 90 degrees 1.739" = +0.012" longer.

Around somewhere between 86 > 94 Nm for the 90 degrees.
Threads are not stripped. Nuts remove easily.
.
.

Last edited by Ron Stygar; 04-06-2009 at 03:58 PM.
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