Cool reflections...

Took a picture of my Blue Z3 reflected in my new Black Z3.

Let me make a correction...that is BRENT's Z3 reflected in MY new Z3

Only I would get hassled by my own wife online.

lol-nice shot

Originally Posted by angel03

Let me make a correction...that is BRENT's Z3 reflected in MY new Z3

Nice burn, and welcome to you and your new Z3.

..

haha all in good fun...and thanks!

Car is now been detailed on the outside at least. I am afraid to get all the water spots out of the hood and trunklid, but the sides look great up close.

And I can't move my right arm today.

Originally Posted by Mpire

Car is now been detailed on the outside at least. I am afraid to get all the water spots out of the hood and trunklid, but the sides look great up close.

Some might say that it isn't detailed if there are still water spots...

You want to put your money where your mouth is, I got a spare bedroom, a functioning grill, and a freezer full of steaks.

Hey, I've worked on much worse, I'm sure. This Mustang belongs to a buddy of mine. I offered to give it a once-over while he was out of town for a weekend. A dual-action polisher will only get you so far, but it was almost a different car in the end. I'm not pulling any more marathon detailing sessions on cars I don't own, though.

Well, you have to get the stick light right up against the paint to see the water spots, but your welcome to come up and help any time.

My arm feels like its going to fall off today.

What do you recommend to cut the paint?

Originally Posted by Mpire

What do you recommend to cut the paint?

If you don't have a polisher, you should consider picking one up. I don't think the Porter Cable 7424 is very expensive.

This is the method I use for paint correction with my DA polisher:

Step 1: Wash/clay/etc.
Step 2: Yellow foam pad with Menzerna Power Gloss
Step 3: Orange foam pad with Menzerna Intensive Polish
Step 4: White foam pad with Menzerna Final Polish
Step 5: Seal with waxes/etc.

If you take your time with it, you can get out most minor to moderate imperfections. I have also experimented with a foamed wool pad and the Power Gloss compound on some more severe imperfections, but didn't see any appreciable improvement over the yellow foam pad. Anything beyond that, and you won't get anywhere with a DA polisher. That mustang's paint was trashed. It looked really nice and shiny when I was done, but there were plenty of deep imperfections that I couldn't hope to even out without a rotory polisher.

Oh, you have a POLISHER.

I have my arm.

The polisher is definitely the way to go. Much easier not to damage the paint than by hand. Just let the weight of the machine do the job. By hand I always press down to hard on the stubborn spots.

If you are experienced with a polisher, Vinci's procedure is great. But for someone just learning, I'd suggest gentle wash, a light polish with a white pad (I like Zaino Z-PC), and wax/sealant.

Add the orange and yellow steps to the procedure after you are comfortable with the polisher and if the steps are needed.

An even easier beginner procedure would be gentle wash, followed by an all in one product with a green pad (I like Zaino AIO). Actually I wouldn't be surprised if this procedure is enough to correct your waterspots.

Also, on the Z3, I prefer the 4 inch spot pads - easier to handle, easier for the small spots.

Can I get an air powered buffer?

Originally Posted by Mpire

Can I get an air powered buffer?

Sure, Griots has a 6 inch model
http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/...tic+orbital.do

"If you have access to compressed air, and your compressor generates at least 8 CFM @ 40 psi, then this Pneumatic Orbital Machine may be more convenient for you than our large Orbital. It's lighter and more maneuverable. The palm activated switch is convenient (no fumbling for the switch). To turn off, just lift your palm off slightly. The Orbital's speed is adjustable with the quarter-turn valve. You'll like the feel, the ergonomics and speed of this unit. Has a 1/4" NPT thread to install your own quick disconnect coupling or hose. If you have air, you'll want this tool."

and a Mini Pneumatic Orbital
http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/...tic+orbital.do

"Tired of polishing tight spaces by hand? I was too so I found both of us this great tool for those of you who want to make a job faster and easier. The backing plate accepts our 3" Foam, Polish, Wax, and Metal Polish via a hook-and-loop attachment. The orbital is comfortable and light enough for long periods of use. It features an in-line air regulator that controls the speed of the orbital. Comfortable, easy-to-use, finger control lever. It solves every detailing and swirl mark issue in tight spaces like narrow painted bumpers, window pillars, cowling, leading trunk edges, wheels, mirrors, and glass. Use it with our white Metal Polishing Pads and our Mag Wheel Polish for metal surfaces. The list is endless! Has a 1/4" NPT thread to install your own quick disconnect coupling or hose. 4 CFM @ 90PSI. Foam pads are sold separately. "

My compressor is rated at 13.5 SCFM @ 40 PSI so that should be enough to work the polisher.

What pads/polishes are recommended?

Now I need someone to actually show me how to do it.

When I get my patio in, we will have to have a meet at my house!

DWM has a small pneumatic polisher, I think. I remember him mentioning that it worked well for polishing the inside of the roadster's plastic window. I would think that pneumatic polishers would be fairly inefficient for polishing the whole car, though. Every time I've had to do a full polish on a car, it's been an all-day affair. That would mean that your compressor would be running all day.

Check out Autogeek.net and Properautocare.com for detailing gear. They are both located in FL, so you effectively get overnight shipping.

Well, its an 80 gallon compressor, I hope its not running all day. Maybe every 15 minutes or so. I have a small 2 gallon compressor as well for backup.

Originally Posted by Mpire

Now I need someone to actually show me how to do it.

Here's a good starting point
http://www.autopia.org/forum/detaili...tml#post812299

Books are one thing, but I don't have anything to practice on before I get started on my beloved.

You'd really have to try to mess up your paint too badly with a DA polisher.

Originally Posted by Mpire

Books are one thing, but I don't have anything to practice on before I get started on my beloved.

I don't want to say its impossible, but using Zaino AIO or Klasse All-In-One with a green pad you are not going to damage your car. Plus if any damage occurs, you have 3 correction stages (white, orange, and yellow pads) available.

Anyway, that's why you start with your wife's car.

+1 on the Porter Cable 7424. I would also recommend Full Molecular Jacket for the 'wet' look as a final polish/sealant. Works incredibly well.

I got mine from these guys.

The FMJ actually spreads quite thin and covers a lot of area so a bottle will last maybe 4 cars worth.

Oh yeah, your concern about polishing "Books are one thing, but I don't have anything to practice on before I get started on my beloved." was also my concern. However if you read this it gives you all the info you need to do the work.

I started off by doing the wash and clean thing. I should have clay bar'd it but I didn't. Next time round! Anyway, once you clean it's a case of cutting or polishing. I didn't cut with a compound as I didn't feel that the paint was that bad. It had swirls but nothing bad. I used a light polish (Menzerna) using the light polishing pad. Takes a lot of effort to work the polish in properly but the results are pretty amazing [by effort I mean time, not pressure]. Just do a 18" x 18" section making flowing slow up/down zig zags followed by left/right zig zags. Do this until the polish disappears and then wipe down with a microfiber cloth. Basically I did this over the whole car this way and then did the final polish/seal with FMJ. I then did a Carnauba wax and then a wipe down with a microfiber cloth. BTW the waxing with proper carnauba wax is messy! The wax is farly solid and it has to be worked in for quite a long time. Maybe I did this wrong ?

Anyway, the car looked like new afterwards. I've never done detailing before in my life but if you follow the recommendations (do a lot of reading so you understand the process) it's actually quite easy. You may not have 'pro' quality but you'll definitely be amazed with your own work. Mine looked better than the dealer's effort when I bought the car!

If you have any questions, please feel free to ask or PM me.

Oh yeah, here are some pics of when I did mine in March. If you want a larger photo (full frame unedited, let me know and I'll send you a copy). Heck if you live in my area and want to discuss, give me a shout!