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Go Back   Bimmerfest - BMW Forums > BMW Model Discussions > 3 Series / 4 Series > E36 (1991 - 1999)

E36 (1991 - 1999)
The E36 chassis 3-Series BMW was a huge hit among driving enthusiasts from the first moment the car hit the pavement. The E36 won numerous awards over the years it was produced and is still a favorite of many BMW enthusiasts to this day! -- View the E36 Wiki

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  #1  
Old 06-03-2009, 04:47 PM
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Gooby Gooby is offline
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Rear Shock Mount DIY

Before we begin I would like to say a couple things...

(1) DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN ANYTHING...you know who you are...

(2) This was done on a 1995 ///M3. Different cars MAY vary...

(3) This is my 1st DIY so if I misspelled anything let me know

(4) This is how Me and my colleagues do this job...If you know a different way please share.


OK!
Glad that's out of the way! Lets begin!


Step 1: Preparation!

Before you can actually do anything you must get to the shock mounts. They are underneath the carpet in the trunk. First off you need to remove the two rear speakers. If they are stuck and don't come out or even seem to be coming out, chances are your shocks are in the speakers...mine were. In this case you have to lift the back end of the car just enough to get the rear tires off the ground. This makes the shocks go down and out of your speakers. After removing the speakers remove all the carpet on the LEFT SIDE and just get the RIGHT SIDE out of the way for you cannot remove it completely because of that gas door cable thing. Make sure you have the proper tools and proper equipment and you may now start working.



Step 2: Raise the car and remove the rear tires. Simple enough.



Step 3: Loosen the 2 side nuts on the shock mounts. Don't remove just yet...just loosen. Also keep the middle one on to hold the shock mount in place.



Step 4: Remove the bottom bolt that holds the shock in place. You need an Impact Wrench.



Step 5: Once you have the bottom bolt removed you may go back and remove the top 2 side nuts we loosened earlier. After that go ahead and pull out the WHOLE shock completely.



Step 6: Remove the old shock mount by removing the middle nut with an impact wrench and install the new one. They should slide off and on.



Step 7: Install just the middle nut to hold the new mount in place. DON'T OVER TIGHTEN!



Step 8: Reinstall the shock. Align the shock mount through the holes and LOOSELY reinstall the nuts. You still need to put the bottom shock bolt on. After that go ahead and finally tighten everything.




Step 9: Make sure everything is secure. Reinstall the wheel and torque to recommended settings. After you reinstall the wheel SLOWLY lower the car and double check EVERYTHING. Make sure all the nuts and bolts are tightened and that the shock mounts are secure and that everything is 1000% safe.

Step 10: Clean up.



Congratulations! You have successfully changed your shock mounts!

Thanks for reading!
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  #2  
Old 06-03-2009, 04:52 PM
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cmybimmer cmybimmer is offline
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Nice write up, and FINALLY!!!

If any of you guys order some turner bushings, you might have to do one minor adjustment... If anyone is interested, let us know


THX RANDY
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  #3  
Old 06-03-2009, 10:31 PM
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PhilipWOT PhilipWOT is offline
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Nice!


MUCH easier than doing the front shocks.
When I finally get my new ones from Koni I'll take a few pics and do a write-up on the install of the front. Since I didnt take any pics on the removal, you'll just have to use common sense and do everything backwards to get the old ones out.
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  #4  
Old 06-04-2009, 06:15 AM
BobbyE36 BobbyE36 is offline
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Great writeup!

What happens if you overtighten the shock nut? I get a squeaking noise from mine, can that be it?
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  #5  
Old 06-04-2009, 07:00 AM
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It implodes, creating a vacuum that folds into itself sucking everything you have in your boot (trunk) into another dimension
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  #6  
Old 06-04-2009, 07:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BobbyE36 View Post
Great writeup!

What happens if you overtighten the shock nut? I get a squeaking noise from mine, can that be it?
actually I was just worried about stripping the nut...im not sure about the squeaking
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  #7  
Old 06-04-2009, 07:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Boab View Post
It implodes, creating a vacuum that folds into itself sucking everything you have in your boot (trunk) into another dimension

Hey man! That's a serious matter! Don't be taking it too lightly...it happened to one of my colleagues!

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  #8  
Old 06-04-2009, 07:38 AM
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lol
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  #9  
Old 07-30-2009, 07:14 AM
redsoxfan617 redsoxfan617 is offline
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I need to replace tires and rear shocks + mount. After RS+M replacement, I understand a wheel alignment is done. Should I replace tires at the same time or can I wait until after? Does it matter?
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  #10  
Old 07-30-2009, 07:26 AM
SCANDINAVIAN13 SCANDINAVIAN13 is offline
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I've never had to pull the shock out to install the mount, but otherwise, good writeup.
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  #11  
Old 07-30-2009, 07:37 AM
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Nice write-up, much appreciated, but use some jack stands next time. Having only floor jack(s) holding up the car while working under it is asking for disaster, even if it's 'just' removing/replacing the shocks. You can't instantly move at 32 fps squared. The car WILL if that jack moves/slips/collapses.
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  #12  
Old 07-30-2009, 07:50 AM
redsoxfan617 redsoxfan617 is offline
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Double-post:
I need to replace tires and rear shocks + mount. After RS+M replacement, I understand a wheel alignment is done. Should I replace tires at the same time or can I wait until after? Does it matter?
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  #13  
Old 07-30-2009, 09:53 AM
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HyphE36 HyphE36 is offline
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It does matter, its a good idea to keep your car in alignment, so typically after taking suspension components like the shocks/struts/coils or whatever you are using off its a good idea to get it back in the proper alignment. It would be to your advantage if you could replace the RSM's and the tires at the same time followed by an alignment.
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  #14  
Old 07-30-2009, 02:16 PM
redsoxfan617 redsoxfan617 is offline
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Bought new tires at NTB price-matched by Tire-rack and bought their alignment option. That wasn't a good idea! They only did the front, and said they dont have the BMW equipment to do the rear. Definitely writing them a letter.
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  #15  
Old 07-30-2009, 03:02 PM
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At least you can rest well tonight knowing it is not only you who has been "had" by one of these chain companies.

I went with "wheel works" and actually had been going with wheel works for years, at least for my rubber. When I got my BMW they told me this and that and I ended up with a gargantuan bill (there are threads related >< ).

I plan to go to a better than "reputable" shop next time. Someone, and I'm venturing out on a branch by saying this, but it may have been Phillip, told me something very true of these shops; most of the mechanics there are there on their first jobs, and just learning how to do stuff themselves, once they can actually perform tasks at a better than "OK" level they move on; the level of service your car see's at most of these places is pathetic.

I found out after the fact, but won't let it happen again.

Edit: sorry if that was more like a rant... I remembered that the reason I so vehemently wrote all the above in response was that in the end, they told me they could not properly align my car and that it had in fact become worse when they were trying.
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Last edited by HyphE36; 07-30-2009 at 03:08 PM.
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  #16  
Old 07-31-2009, 04:42 AM
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Jim Spence Jim Spence is offline
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This is slightly off topic, but it deals with alignment issues after changing shocks.

I put the Bilstein/H&R combo on, got new Bridgestone Potenaz RE960AS tires (greatest tire I've ever owned, by the way) and went to get the car aligned. Three different places told me that they couldn't align it. NTB told me they couldn't do the back even if they wanted to. Then after doing some research here I found out that most places that were trying to align my car would have done it wrong anyway. There is a certain amount of negative camber needed on the front (something like -2.1), so I took it back and had it aligned to those specs - even though they thought I was an idiot.

Car runs fantastic.
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  #17  
Old 07-31-2009, 06:25 AM
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Sounds too easy! Thanks yo!
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  #18  
Old 07-31-2009, 08:45 AM
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HyphE36 HyphE36 is offline
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Jim you are absolutely right, there is a GREAT thread in this forum about our cars feet; tires/rims, camber/toe, proper inflation, etc etc. I will see if I can't find it...

I remember in that thread it mentioned specs to have your e36 aligned for better control and wear from factory settings. I just found out after the fact
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  #19  
Old 08-03-2009, 04:31 AM
kc2mrg kc2mrg is offline
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you dont need an impact wrench on that bottom shock bolt if was torqued properly, at least i didnt need to use one on mine, a breaker bar usually works if you dont have the heavy stuff
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Old 08-03-2009, 08:00 AM
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True, although an impact wrench would no doubt make things easier, especially after that bolt has picked up so much road grime over time as well.
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  #21  
Old 08-06-2009, 09:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kc2mrg View Post
you dont need an impact wrench on that bottom shock bolt if was torqued properly, at least i didnt need to use one on mine, a breaker bar usually works if you dont have the heavy stuff

I never torqued anything...and I guess a breaker bar could work...we were just fortunate enough to have a impact lying around...
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Old 08-06-2009, 09:50 AM
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OMG... Randy surfaces from the depths!!!
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Old 08-06-2009, 09:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCANDINAVIAN13 View Post
I've never had to pull the shock out to install the mount, but otherwise, good writeup.
freak...
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  #24  
Old 08-06-2009, 09:52 AM
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OMG... Randy surfaces from the depths!!!

stevie!

Im actually in Egypt and didnt have internet access till now...

but yeah im still alive......i think
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Old 08-06-2009, 10:00 AM
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HyphE36 HyphE36 is offline
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NO Sh1T!!!!!!!!!!

thats awesome, you better be taking bad ass pictures and bring 'em back for me! Always been very intrigued with Egypt
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