Method for fixing deep scratches and rock chips

About the sander, are there any cheap one we can choose?

How about this?

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...3YB&lpage=none

I bought a bosch 5" Random Orbital sander. The speed is 7000-12000 rpm. How to put the foam pad on it? I didn't use a sander before. Also where to buy whose foam pads?

I went with a slight mod to the process.

I used a paper hole punch to cut out small circles of 2000 grit 3M wet-sand paper. I then used some contact cement to glue the circles to new pencil erasers. This gives a nice smooth flat sanding surface on the end of the pencil.

I followed the surface prep steps before applying paint using the sanding pencil and cleaning afterwards with a cue-tip and alcohol.

I applied small amounts of base paint to the rock chip using the tip of a jeweler's screwdriver (Jeweler screwdrivers come in sets of 5 or 6 sizes and are perfect for applying precise amounts of paint into the nicks or scratches). I applied 3 or 4 coats of base (applied 10 to 15 minutes apart) to help fill in the rock chip depression.

After the base paint was dry (overnight), I used the sanding pencil (dipped in water of course) to carefuly smooth out the surface around the nick - removing the excess paint that was on the clear coat, but leaving the base paint in the nick.

Cleaned up using alcohol and cue-tip, then applied clear coat into the nick and barely into the surrounding clear coat. Once the nick was fully filled in with paint and clear coat and thoroughly dry, I followed up with a little more sanding and buffing with polish to smooth out the surface.

Finally, applied a good paint sealer.

Originally Posted by Guest84

This is what the surface looked like after sanding(Pic below). You may panic somewhat your first time doing this, but rest assured, high blood pressure after scratching up your clear coat is normal. We'll work this out with Machine Polish.


Beginning with Machine Polish #1, use the random orbit polisher up and down, left and right over the area. Finish up with Machine Polish #3, using a separate pad for each. Your finish will be as good as new, with a slight hairline "fracture" where you did the touch up.


I do not use the clear coat that comes with the BMW paint kit nor the application brush. 3 or 4 coats of paint is plenty, and the clear coat topping seems like a waste since you end up sanding off the high spots anyway.

Don't be afraid to try it if you have the proper tools!

And if your friends come over, don't give them fish, teach them to fish! I put Mark to work (mv945) with the PC and machine polishes on his Jet Black M3 after he had an encounters with wood on the roadway, kicked up along the side of his finish. The Machine polishes and the PC took just about all evidence of any scratches (since these scratches did not penetrate to the primer)

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I have a question about this technique. I'm not sure if the OP is still on this site but I would appreciate a response from anyone in the know.

There was mention of not using clear coat. I assume that the scratch was filled in with paint up to the level of the clear coat and then polished. If so, isn't that why the 'micro hairline fracture' is visible. You basically have a clear lacquer touching a paint and hence a line will be visible ?

If I were to use clear coat after filling in the paint, how should I do this correctly ? Would I first have to 'etch' some of the over filled paint out and then put the clear coat on ?

Thanks for such a good description of this process. Very informative.

All well and good for the white and black cars. Now us poor bastards with metallic paint have the issue of attempting to get the metallics to properly disperse in the chip which so far seems impossible. Any suggestions? Yes, I continually shake the bottle to keep the paint/metallics mixed.

Originally Posted by gtxragtop

All well and good for the white and black cars. Now us poor bastards with metallic paint have the issue of attempting to get the metallics to properly disperse in the chip which so far seems impossible. Any suggestions? Yes, I continually shake the bottle to keep the paint/metallics mixed.

Metallics are terrible...I struggle with them every time. Especially the Silvers! I'm working on my airbrush techniques as that solves the problem. The Silver metallic atomizes out of the airbrush and puts the correct color match.

Toto

This has come recommended by my local BMW carclub.

Already have a rock chip on my hood

Comments, results, concerns?

Here is a link: http://drcolorchip.com/

Originally Posted by Totoland

Here's the link to the Snap On orbital

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog

Totoland

Better have a massive air compressor to run this. Not your typical 1-2HP Sears model.

If you have a scratch that you can feel with your finger tip and where you can see the white, you can probably put your finger nail in it....how do you deal with it? I read above but am unsure what the best method will be?

If you have scratches that you cant really feel by your fingertips, neither can you put your nail in them...but they are white (my car is black) ....wht is the best way to get rid of these?

DOES a full fledged standard detailing job take care of any of the above? thanks in advance!

Originally Posted by JT 550i SD

This has come recommended by my local BMW carclub.

Already have a rock chip on my hood

Comments, results, concerns?

Here is a link: http://drcolorchip.com/

Does this really works as it claims?

Originally Posted by paul e

This is the generally recommended procedure for fixing deep scratches and chips. The main problem with it is that its anything but quick.

Ive found Ive been able to eliminate the most time consuming part of the process; the sanding. The idea is you need to knock down the touchup 'blob' youve created, by building up the touchup layer. Ive found there is a product called 'Langkfa' which a a chemical solvent. The idea is, after letting the touchup dry for just about a half hour, til its dry to the touch, you take the thin plastic card in the kit, wrap it tightly in a fine cotton fabric (not terry which will tend to take the touchup out of the chip), apply a few drops of the Langkfa solvent to the cotton wrapped card, and gently go back and forth over the touchup until the 'blob' is no longer a blob, and is level with the surrounding paint. No more or youll remove the paint from the chip. When thats done, just go over the area with a polish, and youre done. After youre finished, and the paint has cured, then just appy wax to the area. I find I can do chips and scratches with this method in just a few minutes longer than it takes to allow the touchup to dry. I do all my touchups now this way, and believe me, its every bit as effective as the old wet sanding technque for 'knocking down the blobs'!

hi Paul - so I want to use this product, I would have to buy touch up paint separately? or just buying the entire kit is sufficient? thanks!

I just ordered the Langka kit too, I've got more chips on my hood, bumper and mirrors than u can shake a stick at! Will try and report back.

Originally Posted by BLKWD

I just ordered the Langka kit too, I've got more chips on my hood, bumper and mirrors than u can shake a stick at! Will try and report back.

Thanks, could you let me know how it wored out? That will be awesome. I got my car entirely detailed and the scratches even though are much diminished they are still visible.

Depending on how it works out for you I will try the dr.paintcolorchip.

Another Qn, did you have to but touch up paint separately?

The original post is great. However, I've made some adaptations after doing a few chip repairs and have come up with my current approach that is a hybrid.

My "chip" kit (attached Photo) consists of:

1) 99% Isopropyl Alcohol
2) Touch Up Base Coat Paint
3) Acetone
4) Langka Blob Eliminator
5) 00 size paintbrush (note how sharp the brush tip is)

My process:

1) Clean the chip spot with #1 (alcohol)
2) Use the paintbrush to apply small amounts of paint into the chip until the paint chip is filled and there is a small "bump" where the touch-up paint is raised above the surface. This can take as many as 8 to 10 applications, allowing each to dry thoroughly.
3) After each application of paint, clean paint brush with Acetone and let dry.
4) Use Blob Eliminator to remove the raised blob and smooth out the chip spot.
5) Polish or Buff the chip spot to blend it into surrounding paint.
6) Apply paint sealant after a day (to let the chip spot cure).

I found the paint brush at a Michael's (craft store) in the section that has artist brushes. Works much better at applying just the right amount of paint with excellent control. I had to do numerous layers of paint to fill in the deeper chips because the touch-up paint is very very thin. It helps to be patient.

One comment about the Langka kit... It comes with a small credit card sized piece of plastic and the directions instruct the user to wrap it with a piece of tightly woven cloth and use that to apply the blob eliminator. This works reasonably well, but I find that for certain types of chips this can remove more paint from the chip spot than desired. An alternate approach is to take a small piece of cardboard (like you'd find on the back of a pad of notepaper) and simply apply a little blob eliminator to the cardboard and lightly rub the chip spot. The cardboard is flat and has sufficient porosity to absorb the solvent in the Langka; and it does not rub the paint out of the chip spot.

pics didnt show up...

does anyone have pictures from the original post? it is not loading the pictures from post #1 in this thread...

Hi, it seems the photoes from the original posts have been deleted and the user deleted - trying to email or message fails. Does anyone have copies of the photos or a pdf of the posts that they can share?

Jack

I'm gonna fix a couple of my scratches as soon as I buy my flex when the warmer weather comes back!

How do I access the original pictures for this? I have an 05 volvo that was just hit with salt pretty bad, and have many little "chips" in my hood that need some attention as well as a 2" long scratch/dent from a rock. Im selling the car as soon as I take delivery of my new BMW in the next few months! Any suggestions for removing the small dent/2" scratch in the paint?

I have the OEM touch up paint, and am a little nervous about the whole process and would liek to have the pictures as well as the tutorial available when I do a small "test" run.

TIA!

Originally Posted by BMW_Fanboy

How do I access the original pictures for this? I have an 05 volvo that was just hit with salt pretty bad, and have many little "chips" in my hood that need some attention as well as a 2" long scratch/dent from a rock. Im selling the car as soon as I take delivery of my new BMW in the next few months! Any suggestions for removing the small dent/2" scratch in the paint?

I have the OEM touch up paint, and am a little nervous about the whole process and would liek to have the pictures as well as the tutorial available when I do a small "test" run.

TIA!

Bump

Originally Posted by BMW_Fanboy

How do I access the original pictures for this? I have an 05 volvo that was just hit with salt pretty bad, and have many little "chips" in my hood that need some attention as well as a 2" long scratch/dent from a rock. Im selling the car as soon as I take delivery of my new BMW in the next few months! Any suggestions for removing the small dent/2" scratch in the paint?

I have the OEM touch up paint, and am a little nervous about the whole process and would liek to have the pictures as well as the tutorial available when I do a small "test" run.

TIA!

If you have too many chips than you should get the hood repainted. It wil be covered under insurance. I went thru same once.

all i see are x's

Originally Posted by jesimmons

The original post is great. However, I've made some adaptations after doing a few chip repairs and have come up with my current approach that is a hybrid.

My "chip" kit (attached Photo) consists of:

1) 99% Isopropyl Alcohol
2) Touch Up Base Coat Paint
3) Acetone
4) Langka Blob Eliminator
5) 00 size paintbrush (note how sharp the brush tip is)

My process:

1) Clean the chip spot with #1 (alcohol)
2) Use the paintbrush to apply small amounts of paint into the chip until the paint chip is filled and there is a small "bump" where the touch-up paint is raised above the surface. This can take as many as 8 to 10 applications, allowing each to dry thoroughly.
3) After each application of paint, clean paint brush with Acetone and let dry.
4) Use Blob Eliminator to remove the raised blob and smooth out the chip spot.
5) Polish or Buff the chip spot to blend it into surrounding paint.
6) Apply paint sealant after a day (to let the chip spot cure).

I found the paint brush at a Michael's (craft store) in the section that has artist brushes. Works much better at applying just the right amount of paint with excellent control. I had to do numerous layers of paint to fill in the deeper chips because the touch-up paint is very very thin. It helps to be patient.

One comment about the Langka kit... It comes with a small credit card sized piece of plastic and the directions instruct the user to wrap it with a piece of tightly woven cloth and use that to apply the blob eliminator. This works reasonably well, but I find that for certain types of chips this can remove more paint from the chip spot than desired. An alternate approach is to take a small piece of cardboard (like you'd find on the back of a pad of notepaper) and simply apply a little blob eliminator to the cardboard and lightly rub the chip spot. The cardboard is flat and has sufficient porosity to absorb the solvent in the Langka; and it does not rub the paint out of the chip spot.

OK, so I used the Langka kit and have to say that I'm very disappointed. Basically no matter how much pressure you put on the paint rework, it lifts it all out. I've tried very gentle to extremely gentle and have let the paint set for days.

The method described above is basically what you would do if using a 2000 grit sand paper. I'm guessing that all you did with the Langka and credit card/cloth thing was essentially perform a 2000 grit surface removal and the Langka did nothing.

Langka IMO = $$ Ripoff. I'm going to go back to the 2000 grit process. It's cheaper and can be polished out just as well.

I have also tried the Dr Colorchip and found similar results to the Langka - its very tough to get the paint removed just enough to stay flat without removing too much. Especially when you have light scratches that don't hold the paint well.

That said, the Dr Colorchip paint is nice and thin and dries within minutes, which is nice.

I am thinking that painting over a thin scuff or scratch, and then wetsanding to make it smooth, might be a better and cheaper option.

I'll keep trying the Dr Colorchip to see if I can improve my technique.

Originally Posted by Hogan773

I have also tried the Dr Colorchip and found similar results to the Langka - its very tough to get the paint removed just enough to stay flat without removing too much. Especially when you have light scratches that don't hold the paint well.

That said, the Dr Colorchip paint is nice and thin and dries within minutes, which is nice.

I am thinking that painting over a thin scuff or scratch, and then wetsanding to make it smooth, might be a better and cheaper option.

I'll keep trying the Dr Colorchip to see if I can improve my technique.

hey hogan can u update us after you improve your technique with some pictures? i need to get some scratches out too and am considering to try out this drcolorchip. thanks!