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X3 E83 (2004 - 2010)
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  #1  
Old 06-05-2009, 06:51 AM
Bi4kia Bi4kia is offline
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Rear Door Panel Removal on 04 X3

Hi Guys,

my rear door window dropped this morning while I was driving on the highway. Anyways I tried to search the forum for instructions how to remove the panel and fix the window but I didn't find anything. I found one link but the link was dead. How many screws and where are they hidden? I can only see 1 behind the door lever.

I can hear the motor working but the window will not lift. Any ideas on what could be wrong? How much would it cost to fix at BMW dealer?

Thanks

Last edited by Bi4kia; 06-05-2009 at 08:09 AM.
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  #2  
Old 06-05-2009, 09:02 AM
Supercourse Supercourse is offline
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This earlier thread answers some of your questions, but not how to get the door panel off:

http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=300087

Dryron had an interesting fix of the broken plastic regulator with a zip tie.

Haven't had the problem myself - yet.

Maybe just try popping the panel off from the bottom edge, and looking for additional screws hidden under the door pulls/arm rests.

P.S. on re-assembly, ensure the vapor barrier is stuck back securely.

Last edited by Supercourse; 06-05-2009 at 09:41 AM.
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  #3  
Old 06-05-2009, 09:02 AM
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Evlengr Evlengr is offline
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Check This

This has been a great resource for retro-engineering things for me.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/

It gives "exploded" views and parts for all things BMW.

EE
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  #4  
Old 06-05-2009, 12:39 PM
Bi4kia Bi4kia is offline
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I opened up the panel. I found the defect. It's funny how cheap and dumb they made it. It just doesn't make sense. Anyhow I tried fixing it with tie wrap but it keeps breaking. BMW wants to change me 240 dollars for a new regulator. Funny how they knew what the problem was.

Now I will try to find it from a local salvage yard.

Thanks for the help guys. I appreciate it.
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  #5  
Old 06-05-2009, 02:11 PM
Bi4kia Bi4kia is offline
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An update on the topic. May be they didn't do as dumb as I thought. May be it supposed to break - the small plastic that rides in the guide and hold the glass. Cost about 70 Canadian dollars. I will order it and fix it myself.
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  #6  
Old 07-01-2009, 08:01 AM
x3 318is x3 318is is offline
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can someone please describe how to replace the mechanism? do you have to remove the motor to replace that plastic? the mechanism is behind the motor and the wide metal strip with the wire so it is hard to figure out how those 2 are engaged.
thanks
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  #7  
Old 07-01-2009, 08:43 AM
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LvdB LvdB is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evlengr View Post
This has been a great resource for retro-engineering things for me.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/

It gives "exploded" views and parts for all things BMW.

EE
And a good "time waster". I can sit and scroll through those schematics for hours! Very interesting, simple, but helpful website .
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  #8  
Old 07-01-2009, 11:34 AM
Jonamg Jonamg is offline
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Lightbulb So How Did You Remove The Panel?

I have also been trying to get the same advice. Please tell me how you did it.
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  #9  
Old 08-02-2009, 06:57 AM
fantrider fantrider is offline
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I just fixed mine and took a bunch of pics. I will get them on here as soon as possible.

Here is my summary.
Remove door skin. There are four Torx bolts to get removed. Two are under the pretty wood handle that can be pried off carefully, another one is under the unlock handle, and another bolt is under the arm rest under a piece of plastic.

Pry off door skin with something flat and smooth so I won't hurt the leather, start at the bottom and work your way around to the top. Detach all wiring from the panel, speaker and window switch, and the mechanical mechanism from the door handle to the door. The top part of the door skin by the window pulls straight back towards you, not up like most door skins.

After the door skin is removed, use a razor blade to peel back the vapor/sound barrier by cutting into the rubber adhesive, don't cut the foam, you can push it all back together when you are done.

After you have access to the window motor area, turn on the car and make the window go down so you can get to the plastic hanger that holds the window on the internal guide rail. You'll know what I'm talking about when you get into it. Push your window down and gently detach it from the white slider block, there is a tab in the white plastic that inserts into a hole in the window. After the window is released from the block, push up the window and tape it up using some masking tape so that it won't slide down into you work area and break or crush you fingers.

Remove the motor assembly by removing the three bolts holding it to the door, then you can see the white plastic block and how it moves the window up and down the rail with the cable. There is a nut that is supposed to sit in the plastic, that is where mine was broken. Fix it however you can, I used 5minute epoxy and a zip tie for insurance. So far it's working.

I'll get some pics in here later so everyone can really see what it looks like.

Good luck !!
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  #10  
Old 08-03-2009, 08:35 PM
fantrider fantrider is offline
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Well, it looks like I will have to buy the replacement piece, my epoxy didn't hold and it popped off the plastic today. Darn, I was hopeing for a $5 fix, guess not.
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  #11  
Old 08-04-2009, 06:00 AM
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Evlengr Evlengr is offline
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I would highly recommend spending the $17 on a new vapor barrier and related adhesive.

If this is torn or not put back exactly as prescribed your X3 may leak.

And boy does it leak.
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  #12  
Old 06-27-2010, 08:51 AM
knight4825 knight4825 is offline
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MY window won't go up in my passengers side rear. Any update on this fix or pictures??
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  #13  
Old 06-27-2010, 12:13 PM
knight4825 knight4825 is offline
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I have the door apart but the motor seems to be working and pulling the wire but I can't figure out why the window won't go back up. I can hear the motor humming and I can see the wire spinning but the window won't move. The window is still attached securely to the plastic piece that holds it on the middle rail that goes up and down. If anyone has any pictures or advice, I don't know what the problem is. THANKS IN ADVANCE!!! PLEASE HELP!>!!!!
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  #14  
Old 06-27-2010, 12:21 PM
kenza kenza is offline
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Please read the DIY sticky, there is a step by step related to rear window drive dog fix.
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  #15  
Old 06-27-2010, 12:25 PM
kenza kenza is offline
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Or you can download the doc from here: http://www.kenza.biz/rear-window-repair.doc
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  #16  
Old 06-27-2010, 02:44 PM
knight4825 knight4825 is offline
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the screw that goes into the window dog seems to be scrapping the inside of the window bracket where it moves up and down. What size screw did you use and what what plate did you put over the window dog??? Please help!!!!
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  #17  
Old 06-27-2010, 03:43 PM
kenza kenza is offline
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Well, in my case it is not scraping anything. I do not remember exactly what size is the one I used, but I guess it should be a flat-head one. Regarding the plate, it was just a piece of thin metal.
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  #18  
Old 07-24-2010, 04:18 AM
BMWX3 BMWX3 is offline
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I had the same prob on my 04 X3. The drive dog was considerably damaged so I guessed it was best to replace the part considering advice the part was only $50. BMW Brisbane slugged me $160 Australian dollars for that piece of plastic. Anyway window works but if you have an door airbag and you disconnect it will register a fault on the dash light. Reconnecting won't get rid of the warning light. You need to source a airbag tool or go back to the dealer to clear the fault and they can charge up to $120 to clear a fault. If you want to avoid this leave the air bag connected spin the door panel upside down and with some wire hook it to the top of the window frame when you perform the repair.
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  #19  
Old 11-19-2010, 05:16 PM
bguilbert bguilbert is offline
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Talking

My 2004 X3 experience: The 2 rear windows within 2 weeks of each other in 2007. Shortly afterwards the sun roof closed funny on itself and had to be replaced. Took that patch job back 3 times because it was 1- missing a rubber boot. 2- wind noise like it wasn't closed all the way. 3- they put black rubber gunk all around it and didn't even clean it up. That's provided it was even supposed to have rubber gunk to seal it which I don't believe it's supposed to. Not to mention black handling marks all over the inside roof and post cloth!

The service rep never even looked at the car before I came to pick it up each time and wondered why I didn't give him all 5's when the customer survey call came... amazing. If my bonus was based on that score you can bet I'd at least spend 3 minutes looking at the car. Oh, and the tech had NEVER replaced a sunroof before. Boo Pembroke Pines BMW!

Well 3 years later, the right rear has the same problem and they want $605 US to replace the regulator! I told him about the history; he said I hear you but... So, I walked out after telling me the best they could do was $500. Previous work was done under warranty. The motor still works and opens the window but it won't close it.

TO REMOVE THE WINDOW PANEL:
1- remove the plastic screw covers by the inside door handle and under the armrest (mine was a ****** to remove).
2- starting at the bottom end of the long door handle trim, gently pry the decorative piece away. It's snapped together so *walk* your way up to the top along both edges.
3- remove the 4 star screws. HOLD ONTO THE PANEL.
4- disconnect the speaker and switch connectors.
5- optionally remove the door release cable from the door end: unhook the cable end & swivel it upward and remove the wire end.
6- et voila.

If anyone has more info on the pieces that broke please let me know what you've found.
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  #20  
Old 11-19-2010, 05:48 PM
bguilbert bguilbert is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenza View Post
Or you can download the doc from here: http://www.kenza.biz/rear-window-repair.doc
Hi there, what DIY sticky? I also went to the link but link is dead. Please let me know where I can get info on the piece. Thanks much!
Bob
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  #21  
Old 11-19-2010, 09:47 PM
Supercourse Supercourse is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bguilbert View Post
Hi there, what DIY sticky? I also went to the link but link is dead.
3rd. thread from the top of the X3 forum (FAQ and DIY Compilation)

Namely: http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=457330

It's under Miscellaneous Documents, and is the last one, "Rear Window Repair".

(The original .DOC link was from kenza's own computer/server and took a long time to download. The PDF is on this forum and downloads quickly to your computer.)
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  #22  
Old 07-27-2013, 01:48 PM
chance144 chance144 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fantrider View Post
I just fixed mine and took a bunch of pics. I will get them on here as soon as possible.

Here is my summary.
Remove door skin. There are four Torx bolts to get removed. Two are under the pretty wood handle that can be pried off carefully, another one is under the unlock handle, and another bolt is under the arm rest under a piece of plastic.

Pry off door skin with something flat and smooth so I won't hurt the leather, start at the bottom and work your way around to the top. Detach all wiring from the panel, speaker and window switch, and the mechanical mechanism from the door handle to the door. The top part of the door skin by the window pulls straight back towards you, not up like most door skins.

After the door skin is removed, use a razor blade to peel back the vapor/sound barrier by cutting into the rubber adhesive, don't cut the foam, you can push it all back together when you are done.

After you have access to the window motor area, turn on the car and make the window go down so you can get to the plastic hanger that holds the window on the internal guide rail. You'll know what I'm talking about when you get into it. Push your window down and gently detach it from the white slider block, there is a tab in the white plastic that inserts into a hole in the window. After the window is released from the block, push up the window and tape it up using some masking tape so that it won't slide down into you work area and break or crush you fingers.

Remove the motor assembly by removing the three bolts holding it to the door, then you can see the white plastic block and how it moves the window up and down the rail with the cable. There is a nut that is supposed to sit in the plastic, that is where mine was broken. Fix it however you can, I used 5minute epoxy and a zip tie for insurance. So far it's working.

I'll get some pics in here later so everyone can really see what it looks like.

Good luck !!
Just want to add a trick for getting the white plastic block off the window. After you take off the motor assembly, you will see an oblong space on the window rail, with a hole at the bottom. move the bottom of the window/white plastic block down so that the hook on the white block that holds the window in place is in line with the bottom of the oblong space. take a narrow flathead screwdriver, and use the bottom of the oblong groove as a lever point to lift up on the hook (it faces out towards you). It makes disconnecting the window from the white block much easier.

Also, I took off the motor assembly before messing with the white block.

Finally, you may not know what the mechanism is really like for the window. When you look at the motor assembly, the gear on the motor assembly basically turns a crank in the gearbox, which raises or lowers a wire in the door. THIS WIRE IS BEHIND THE VERTICAL RAIL. You have to feel around, and possibly raise or lower the wire, to find a small metal attachment on the wire that eventually will connect to the white plastic block. It is imperative that you have that metal attachment in position to make it easy to attach the white block when you reassemble everything. Basically, make sure it is raised up enough that you can easily access everything before you put the white block back on the rail.
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  #23  
Old 09-08-2013, 06:20 AM
vtraudt vtraudt is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenza View Post
Please read the DIY sticky, there is a step by step related to rear window drive dog fix.
Is the 'drive dog' the clip?
Or referring to the splined drive pulley?

"clip" shown below:

http://regulatorfix.com/images/BMW-X3-RR.jpg
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  #24  
Old 09-08-2013, 07:07 AM
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jdeday jdeday is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vtraudt View Post
Is the 'drive dog' the clip?
Or referring to the splined drive pulley?

"clip" shown below:

http://regulatorfix.com/images/BMW-X3-RR.jpg
Your photo is the "drive dog"
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  #25  
Old 09-08-2013, 07:44 AM
vtraudt vtraudt is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdeday View Post
Your photo is the "drive dog"
.
Ah, ok. Will add this to my 'terminology'.
BTW: I haven't found a real difference in longevity between the 'white' (made from POM) and the 'beige' (made from ABS) material.

POM is chosen for its superior coefficient of friction and wear resistance, ABS is stronger, but less durable.

Currently of of stock on both (next batch expected in 1-2 weeks).

www.regulatorfix.com
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